No Mg or Ca.... advice needed

Bigbud

Well-Known Member
After doing some research I have found out my Nutrients dont have any Magnesium or calcium in.

This could explain why last time my leaves tuned yellow. It was as if some one had a straw and was slowly sucking all the green out of my leaves.

There was No other discoloring to the leaves, they stayed in a perfect shape, apart from they where yellow, it was not due to flowering as it started before 12/12

I have read that epson salts will clear this up ? And to prevent this from happening again I want to be ready for when it does happen.
Its going to if theres no Mg or Ca in my Nutrients.

What I cant find out though is, how much per liter to use ? when to apply and how many times a week ? or at what stage of the grow.
I dont want to wait for my plants to start turning yellow again before I try to fix this problem and dont want cause my plants to go and Od on Mg & Ca.

Would it be best to folia feed it to my plants ? or add/mix to water then feed in this way ?

There coming up to a week old now and due for a transplant next week from a 3B3 pot to a 6B6 pot, then a week or 2 after that depending on how fast they grow transplanted up to the next size which will 8B8 or 10B10

Anyone have any advice on this ?

Thanks
 

beenthere donethat

Well-Known Member
Soil? Buy "Ca-Mag" or use 1 tsp each of epsom salts and mollasses per gallon of water.

Hydro? Find Cal-Mag..follow directions

good luck

bt dt
 

Bigbud

Well-Known Member
ditto

^^ need to shorten the shortest post thing to three letters...
Anyone say SPAM.!!!

Thought you might have something better to say then that, If you cant help in anyway and just dont know the answer dont bother posting.
 

Bigbud

Well-Known Member
Soil? Buy "Ca-Mag" or use 1 tsp each of epsom salts and mollasses per gallon of water.

Hydro? Find Cal-Mag..follow directions

good luck

bt dt

Yea its soil..

Got the mollasses already and getting the salts this week. But still need to know whens a good time to feed with it to stop me getting yellow leaves

I read that ca-mag can be up to 3xs the strengh of whats on the bottle but I will look into it some more

Thanks
 

babygro

Well-Known Member
There coming up to a week old now and due for a transplant next week from a 3B3 pot to a 6B6 pot, then a week or 2 after that depending on how fast they grow transplanted up to the next size which will 8B8 or 10B10

Anyone have any advice on this ?
Firstly, don't worry too much about the Ca, these plants rarely become deficient from Ca as the tap irrigation water usually contains sufficient quantities of Ca. Mg is another matter though and Mg deficiency problems are relatively common with these plants as they use quite high levels of it.

There's a number of ways you can deal with it. For a longer lasting solution than preventative measures you can add a couple of tablespoons of Dolomite lime in your potting mix - this will help add Mg and Ca on a slow release and also the lime will help buffer the ph of your soil medium.You can also try Calcified Seaweed which does a similar job to Dolomite lime with less ph buffering.

For preventative measures there's two ways you can go - foliar feeding or root feeding with Epsom salts. Foliar feeding achieves the quickest results and is given by a 2% solution of Epsom salts in plain water misted over the plants leaves. Only foliar feed in vegetative growth or within the first two weeks of flowering as misting later in flowering can cause too high a humidity and bud rot. Also only foliar feed at lights off - don't mist the leaves and put the plant directly under light.

Root feeding is safer in flowering and I usually put 1-2 teaspoons of Epsom Salts into about a gallon or 4 litres of water, dissolve the Epsom salts in warm water first before adding to the main irrigation water. Apply as many times as you need to but remember, root feeding can take up to 6 days to show results.

The usual times you'll need to apply Epsom Salts is late in Vegetative growth about weeks 4-6 and the first couple of weeks in flowering.
 

Bigbud

Well-Known Member
Thanks babygro..

I be going with the foliar feeding with the salts, you say 2% whats that work out to be if i am adding it to 2ltrs ? 1/2 1/4 or 1 teaspoon ?

I have an old kitching light in the way of a 5ft tube, once i have foliar feed will it be ok for the plants to be put under this till they are dry enough to be put bk under the hps?

As for the lime i will look into that, I take it - it can be found in any good garden center and is that a couple of tablespoons per 50ltr bag? or this this per pot?
 

sk3tch3

Well-Known Member
the yellowing is due to low levels of nitrogen, young plants need alot, budding plants need enough to stay green. Mg deffeciencies are usually portrayed by the tips of leaves curling upwards, and is not as common as N deffeciency.
 

babygro

Well-Known Member
I be going with the foliar feeding with the salts, you say 2% whats that work out to be if i am adding it to 2ltrs ? 1/2 1/4 or 1 teaspoon ?
For two litres its about 1/4 of a teaspoon.

I have an old kitching light in the way of a 5ft tube, once i have foliar feed will it be ok for the plants to be put under this till they are dry enough to be put bk under the hps
If you're going to foliar feed, the best time to do it is just after lights off, so they can take in the nutrients during the lights off period and start using it and also so you don't put wet leaves under lights - you shouldn't be doing that. If the lighting schedule makes it difficult for you to do this at lights off change your lighting schedule.

As for the lime i will look into that, I take it - it can be found in any good garden center and is that a couple of tablespoons per 50ltr bag? or this this per pot?
The correct stuff is actually quite difficult to get hold of surprisingly, you want Dolomite Lime not Garden Lime - they're different. You need about a tablespoon of Lime per per 5 or 6 litres of soil, but make sure you dry mix it throughly into the soil before potting up.

I'll pm you a link where you can get Dolomite Lime from in the UK.
 

babygro

Well-Known Member
the yellowing is due to low levels of nitrogen, young plants need alot, budding plants need enough to stay green. Mg deffeciencies are usually portrayed by the tips of leaves curling upwards, and is not as common as N deffeciency.
It's quite possible it's Nitrogen, you can't really rule that out without having seen any pictures. I wouldn't have thought plants of their age would become N deficient though although in fairness they are in small pots which won't be helping.

However, to say it's Nitrogen just because the leaves are yellowing is nonsense - Mg deficiency problems show first as identical symptoms to Nitrogen deficiency and it's highly likely that a lot of people are mis-diagnosing Mg problems for N def problems simply because they don't know any better. The main difference between the two is, once the leaf is yellowed at the tips and margins rust brown spots start to develop and then the leaves curl upwards, but until that happens the symptoms look identical.
 

nongreenthumb

Well-Known Member
I'm pretty sure i head bigbud say at some point he was growing them in bio bizz all mix, I doubt somehow that no more than 2 week old plants would be getting npk def's in that time, he said that his soil and nutrients didnt contain cal-mag though, i think its also that he has his light too close,
 

babygro

Well-Known Member
I'm pretty sure i head bigbud say at some point he was growing them in bio bizz all mix, I doubt somehow that no more than 2 week old plants would be getting npk def's in that time, he said that his soil and nutrients didnt contain cal-mag though, i think its also that he has his light too close,
If he's growing in Allmix, I'd say it's virtually guaranteed to be Mg problems - I've had Mg problems with Allmix and I know a lot of others have as well. Allmix and hard English tap water just don't seem to like each other for some reason.
 

sk3tch3

Well-Known Member
...However, to say it's Nitrogen just because the leaves are yellowing is nonsense - Mg deficiency problems show first as identical symptoms to Nitrogen deficiency and it's highly likely that a lot of people are mis-diagnosing Mg problems for N def problems simply because they don't know any better. The main difference between the two is, once the leaf is yellowed at the tips and margins rust brown spots start to develop and then the leaves curl upwards, but until that happens the symptoms look identical.
no sir it is not nonsence...
Mg
chlorophyll is a group of magnesium containing green pigments that occur in plants giving the characteristic green color to foliage and acting as absorbers of light for photosynthesis. since Mg is central to chlorophll production, the plant needs it to carry out photosynthesis. plants with Mg problems exhibit both yellowing and leaf curl, especially leaves that curls upwards at the base of the plant. this is where thr saying, "praying for Mg" comes from.
Mg problems are the most common secondary nutrient disorder you come across....

i read all the post and no one had suggested N so i threw my two cents in based on my information. nonsence indeed
 

Bigbud

Well-Known Member
I dont have yellow leaves at 2 weeks old...

I am going on what happened last time, theres enough nitrogen in the grow nutes 8.2.6 for it not to be that but like I said in my first post there is NO Mg and it started before flowering sk3tch3

Anyway I have the salt now and wait a few weeks before giving them any innless you think its a good idea to give them a feeding once a week from now on babygro ? seeing as you have used the allmix

and yea there in small pots for now im trying to get them to 12in and show sex in the smallest pot possible due to only having room for 5 12 by 12 pots
 

babygro

Well-Known Member
chlorophyll is a group of magnesium containing green pigments that occur in plants giving the characteristic green color to foliage and acting as absorbers of light for photosynthesis. since Mg is central to chlorophll production, the plant needs it to carry out photosynthesis. plants with Mg problems exhibit both yellowing and leaf curl, especially leaves that curls upwards at the base of the plant. this is where thr saying, "praying for Mg" comes from.
Mg problems are the most common secondary nutrient disorder you come across....
Firstly, please dont lecture me about plant botany, I probably know more about it than you do. Secondly, what's nonsense is suggesting that because he's got yellow leaves, that that must automatically equal Nitrogen deficiency. It doesn't, as I said earlier and what makes it even more nonsensical from your perspective is that you're not listening nor reading nor understanding what the original poster is saying. It's very easy to mis-diagnose Mg deficiency for Nitrogen deficiency in it's early stages because in the early stages they look identical, I made the same mistake myself early on in my first grow because I listened to people like you who were wrong, I had to figure it out myself.

I now know, from my own experience and from reading the experiences of others, that when Biobizz Allmix soil is used with hard tap water in the UK Mg deficiency is a common problem and thats what this guy has.

i read all the post and no one had suggested N so i threw my two cents in based on my information. nonsence indeed
There's nothing wrong with throwing an opinion into the mix, there's everything wrong with perservering with it when in this instance you're so very clearly wrong.
 

babygro

Well-Known Member
Anyway I have the salt now and wait a few weeks before giving them any innless you think its a good idea to give them a feeding once a week from now on babygro ? seeing as you have used the allmix
I'd start foliar feeding them straight away with a 2% solution of Epsom salts (1/4 teaspoon to 2 litres of water) at lights off. Just remember that if you're foliar feeding them, give them slightly less water at watering time as they're already taking in water via the foliar feeding. You can root feed them as well but foliar feeding produces the quickest results, you should start seeing a difference in about 2-3 days from foliar feeding and about 5-6 days from root feeding. Dissolve the 1/4 teaspoon in a cup of warm water and then add that to your foliar spray.

You probably won't improve the already yellowed leaves, but you'll stop it spreading any further. Once you've got it under control with foliar feeding you can stop and just give them a root feed with it say once a week. or 2 weeks. You have to stop foliar feeding when you switch to flowering anyway.

You should also start thinking about potting them up into larger pots and getting them to root those new pots out before switching to flowering.
 

Bigbud

Well-Known Member
There are No yellow leaves.!!! Yet

I am doing my homework so to speak so that when it does happen this time I will know how to treat it and when to look out for it.

This happend on my last grow so I dont see why it wouldnt happen this time but now im kinda clued up on it and have everything at hand to sort it should it happen again

thanks

 

northeastern lights

Well-Known Member
Firstly, don't worry too much about the Ca, these plants rarely become deficient from Ca as the tap irrigation water usually contains sufficient quantities of Ca. Mg is another matter though and Mg deficiency problems are relatively common with these plants as they use quite high levels of it.

There's a number of ways you can deal with it. For a longer lasting solution than preventative measures you can add a couple of tablespoons of Dolomite lime in your potting mix - this will help add Mg and Ca on a slow release and also the lime will help buffer the ph of your soil medium.You can also try Calcified Seaweed which does a similar job to Dolomite lime with less ph buffering.

For preventative measures there's two ways you can go - foliar feeding or root feeding with Epsom salts. Foliar feeding achieves the quickest results and is given by a 2% solution of Epsom salts in plain water misted over the plants leaves. Only foliar feed in vegetative growth or within the first two weeks of flowering as misting later in flowering can cause too high a humidity and bud rot. Also only foliar feed at lights off - don't mist the leaves and put the plant directly under light.

Root feeding is safer in flowering and I usually put 1-2 teaspoons of Epsom Salts into about a gallon or 4 litres of water, dissolve the Epsom salts in warm water first before adding to the main irrigation water. Apply as many times as you need to but remember, root feeding can take up to 6 days to show results.

The usual times you'll need to apply Epsom Salts is late in Vegetative growth about weeks 4-6 and the first couple of weeks in flowering.

Exactly. I use magnesuim sulfate AKA espolm salt too. It's the only thing I ever foliar feed with. The famous "CLAW" I find is usually assosiated with mg deficencies, usually I just dissolve 1-3 tsp in hot water and then add to cold as you already stated The advanyage to foliar feeding is it is instantly available.
 
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