Double check before assembling my light

BST

Active Member
you can disconnect the potentiometer and the light will just be at 100%. If it comes on with the dimmer disconnected it is the dimmer wiring. If not it is a bad connection at one of the holders, make sure your COB's and Holders and properly seated together. good luck, should be too easy. Only five parts to check, each COB, the dimmer and the driver connections. take your time. peace
Aren't potentiometer a resistor? Can I get around one in a (b) driver like this?
 

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jeepster1993

Well-Known Member
The driver will run just fine without a pot. Just at 100%. That is fine if that is your intent.

Not sure about a switch...(I was told to not use this connect to turn off the lights, as the driver is still is running...or something like that)
 

GroDank101

Well-Known Member
At first I had my cobs set up like this 20160917_135503.jpg

But I think it would be better like this 20160917_135517.jpg

Since I want to run the wires in between the fins on the back of the heatsinks. I just need to make sure I don't hit any fins on the back when I drill the holes though. I really hope I don't hit the fins when drilling. Does this sound like a good idea?
 
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GroDank101

Well-Known Member
My b version driver was causing my cobs to flicker quickly to random brightnesses. I'm going to switch potentiometers and try again. But I'm not sure what caused them to flicker. They never go completely off but just flicker brightness.
 
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sixstring2112

Well-Known Member
Try capping the dim leads and running it at full power.if it works fine like that you have a bad pot or bad wiring to it.its just a cheap part,they can be faulty.
 

GroDank101

Well-Known Member
Got the lights ready, now just need to attach the positive and negative leads from the driver and it should be working and ready to hang up and attach the fans.
1474270707321-629111539.jpg

And is it OK to leave my dimmer leads just cut off like this? 20160919_034532.jpg
 
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BST

Active Member
BST I Pm You And Informed You That The Pot Need A 10k Resistor. Below Is A Pic Of The 1 I'm Currently Working On :peace:

View attachment 3784519
So there's now two resistors in the circuit (pot + resistor). ??? What's the 10k do on that side?
I'm confused between the A & B drivers. I know the differences. But can't one get more output by cutting out pot? Which this basically is.
 

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GroDank101

Well-Known Member
I taped off the b version dimming leads. And everything is running, drawing 391 watts total not including the active cooling 140mm fans, 175w for one and the other maxed at 216w according to my killawatt. I still need to add a potentiometer to my B version. the two 140mm fans only draw 3 watts total.
The grow area is a 4x2' so that's about 49 watts/sqft.

20160920_231022.jpg 20160920_231109.jpg 20160920_231823.jpg
 
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BST

Active Member
I taped off the b version dimming leads. And everything is running, drawing 391 watts total not including the active cooling 140mm fans, 175w for one and the other maxed at 216w according to my killawatt. I still need to add a potentiometer to my B version. the two 140mm fans only draw 3 watts total.
The grow area is a 4x2' so that's about 49 watts/sqft.

View attachment 3785857 View attachment 3785858 View attachment 3785861
So what your saying is the kill switch does give the b version more juice. Throw kill under pot.
 

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GroDank101

Well-Known Member
I noticed a hotspot in my connection. This is on the first positive connection in the series from the driver to cob #1.
I think I know why. This connection has silver stranded 18 gauge. The rest has coppper stranded 18 gauge. Maybe I should replace all the silver stranded with copper stranded. Thanks for any help on this issue. 20161001_022340.jpg
 
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