How to protect COBs run in series against single COB failure?
- Thread starter fearnoevil
- Start date
PilouPilou
Well-Known Member
Ok! Sorry but my english has limits.. sometimes I understand the words but not the meaning of the sentence!!
And while I'm at it.. I am very interested by your LUMIA "Bud Burst" but I'd like to use it like we use our COB chips - Clearly, is it possible to have a version without the 5 channels, just with a single "+" and "-"? I'd like to put it on a passive heatsink with a HBG driver at around 50W + a lens.
Thx in advance for the infos!
welight
Well-Known Member
yes we have a version all in series, do you know what colours you want on the board?
Cheers
Mark
PilouPilou
Well-Known Member
It is for flo lights that I will add to 3500K lights COB - the original spectrum of the lumia seems to be very good for flower stage (10x630nm-10x660nm-5x730nm) - but if you have a better mix to propose me I tell yes because I am not an expert!!
Just few questions plz:
- in serie if one chips burns the others won't work anymore...?
- is there conectors for the + and - ?
- what wattage do you advice for a good efficiency?
welight
Well-Known Member
Hi Pilou
Yes the when all in series a single led failure will pull down the whole series string, however the rate of fail is very small
This is the board, we actually made it as a dropin replacement for Philips Fortimo modules, so if you wanted to cool it out you could mount inside Fortimo, I think Philips still sells the empty case as pictured, which has built in reflector and diffuser and two slots for the Wago solderless connectors, how ever it will work just fine as is, 2nd connector is only for NTC for thermal throttling if required and you have a driver that can read an NTC. Image is not fully loaded PCB as we can add jumpers to reduce the output. Available in any colour combo you want and will max out at around 70 watts
Cheers
Mark
PilouPilou
Well-Known Member
Hi Mark!Hi Pilou
Yes the when all in series a single led failure will pull down the whole series string, however the rate of fail is very small
This is the board, we actually made it as a dropin replacement for Philips Fortimo modules, so if you wanted to cool it out you could mount inside Fortimo, I think Philips still sells the empty case as pictured, which has built in reflector and diffuser and two slots for the Wago solderless connectors, how ever it will work just fine as is, 2nd connector is only for NTC for thermal throttling if required and you have a driver that can read an NTC. Image is not fully loaded PCB as we can add jumpers to reduce the output. Available in any colour combo you want and will max out at around 70 watts
Cheers
Mark
Fortimo module seems to be difficult to find.. especially here in France. Simplest way for a noob like me seems to be to use the single PCB on the left pic... + and -... 3 screws and a thermal pad and it's good hahha!
I don't understand well tell me if I'm wrong: if I want to run it at 40W you need to add "jumpers" to limit the power?
Why 2 holes per slot? 2+ and 2-?
My project is 3 or 4 lights with red spectrums like the lumia one on passiv heatsinks + lens + hbg drivers in the same way we build single cob light. If you have a solution I can be very interested!
welight
Well-Known Member
HI Fortimo box available here for 2 euro http://oemwebshop.philips.com/philips-fortimo-led-dlm-flex-high-cover.html also Tridonic make a housing called DLE, same footprint
http://www.tridonic.com/com/en/products/talexx-led-stark-dle.asp
Yes we can limit the amount of leds we mount or you can under run, using lower current drive
Cheers
Mark