Creating seeds with my coloidal silver and currently growing plants, need help

[Morriston55]

Hey guys, i am trying to wrap my head around making my own feminized seeds from my current growth using coloidal silver and need some advice. Ive currently got 4 feminized sativas in veg, and one large 3 foot sativa mother growing outdoors, id assume its started flowering as the days are 12 hours light outside as of this week.

What i need help with is if i should spray mom outside, one of the plants in veg, or if i should start another round of clones from them to pollinate. I dont really understand the timelines for growing the pollen sacs and how to make and harvest the actual seeds.

Im willing to flip the 4 currently in veg, into flower at anytime now that will make this work. I have an impossible time getting seeds were i live so having some seeds in a stash would be a treat.

Were do i start this process with what im working with. I will document my progress in this thread.

 

[Michiganmeds1982]

I've never done it with colloidal silver but I would use it on the outdoor plant and pollinate your indoor ones

 

[bseeds]

I would forget the one out side for this the ones inside spray branch you want with the silver 2-3 days before flipping then every day until you see male sacs mark your branch do not smoke or use this branch for anything when sacs open up it pollinates the other buds and you will get seeds

 

[KryptoBud]

A Guide To Colloidal Silver

 

[Morriston55]

Thanks for the replies, i dont mind dedicating an entire plant to seeds. Its the timeline on making it work i dont get.

Say I were to spray my smallest plant in the tent today with colloidal silver, flip all 4 in the tent to flower in a few days, doesnt it take time for the pollen sacs to grow? Then i have to pollinate another plant with this created pollen and wait for seeds. Will i have enough time to mature the seeds from the current plants that are growing? They are sativa so i should have 10weeks.

 

[bseeds]

the sacs take about 2week give or take to mature and start to open the female buds need about 23-30 day after but in flower room buds need to be started to devolope and get some resin on them and then the pollen can stick to it and that's all about the same time and then you will notice the hairs turn brown and you will see the calix getting bigger and you will know that you have seeds in there maturing the sacs don't all open the same time some today some tomorrow and so forth get fan blowing on the male parts aiming at the female to help out the pollen when they start to open up

 

[Olive Drab Green]

You spray it for a week before flower or after it grows a few pistils if you plan to self it. You have to keep spraying it a couple times a week until you see it start to produce stamens. CS works by inhibiting ethylene, the chemical that makes the plant biologically female.

 

[DST]

Ideally you want to have clones of the plants you want feminside pollen from. Once the clone is rooted and potted up then start spraying with CS. Make your own CS as shop bought generally doesnt have a high enough ppm.
Spray for a couple of weeks while vegging then I spray a few times once in 12/12 then leave to flower. Depending on the strain male sacs will begin to form within the flowers. I would suggest starting this process a couple of weeks ahead of the plant you wish to pollinate.

 

[Morriston55]

Thank you for the replies, I also have a 1 foot tall plant outside I forgot about. It wasnt growing much in the tent so I narrowed it down to the best 4 when I up potted, but I didnt kill the little guy, I just put him outside on the porch in a little pot in coco.

I am going to spray a few branches of one of the plants inside with my 30ppm CS tonight, and by the time I suppose the 2-3 weeks the pollen sacs take to form, hopefully that little plant outside will have a little bud growth and resin on it and I will try and pollinate it and use that hole plant for seed develepement.

Sound viable? Id like to spray the CS tonight and flip to flower in a week

 

[DST]

30ppm isn't going to work imo.
You need a few 9 volt batteries, 2 pieces of silver (no pirate jokes please) and some gubbins to run an eletrical current from the battery through them (basically a plastic connector and a resistor). Did you buy the CS?

 

[Morriston55]

I did already buy the CS . I read the growweedeasy tutorial on using the CS and she recomended the 30ppm. The part I seem to be not getting was how many plants you needed and what stages they were in etc before starting.

I am going to spray one branch of one of my plants that is vegging (been vegging 8 weeks but had issues), and use that pollen that forms in 2-3 weeks (switching to flower this week) on another female that started flower period recently but will be kept seperate after pollinating it.

Need some more info on actually identifying the pollen sacs if the process is working or not, retrieving the pollen and pollenating the other female though. I will spray the CS this morning before lights out. Im going to use plastic over the rest of the plant I dont want sprayed

 

[Morriston55]

Sprayed one full branch, soaked it almost, covered the plant with plastic to avoid overspray, marked branch with tag

 

[rshackleferd]

30ppm isn't going to work imo.
You need a few 9 volt batteries, 2 pieces of silver (no pirate jokes please) and some gubbins to run an eletrical current from the battery through them (basically a plastic connector and a resistor). Did you buy the CS?

Every time i made colloidal silver the ppm never went past 28 ppm. I tried all kinds of techniques to raise it such as boiling the water, higher wattage, constantly clean the silver, and etc. and still same ppm. However it always worked when i sprayed the plants.

 

[rshackleferd]

Sprayed one full branch, soaked it almost, covered the plant with plastic to avoid overspray, marked branch with tag

Thats what i always do when i breed seeds, I just spray one branch. That way you can make s-1 seeds along with your f-2 seeds. Just be careful not to spray for too long, two weeks is good enough. It sort of stresses out the leaves but i never had one die on me and they always end up flipping to male. Sorry if i dont make too much sense really medicated right now.

 

[rshackleferd]

When you pollinate do not use q-tips, A lot of people recommend this way but i found out the pistils always get caught up in the cotton and end up yanking out during pollination. When the male pollen sack is open and ready use tweezers and pull off the whole pollen sack and rub the pollen balls all over the pistils. Be careful not to over pollinate, I over do it every time. The whole plant ends up being nothing but seed and no smoke. Just two branches is all you need to pollinate, this will give you about 200 seeds. You will know when its almost time to harvest when the seeds start poking out of the calyx. As soon as they start dropping to the floor its time to harvest.

Added= I have made auto flower seeds and photo period seeds, all my seeds have been top notch just as the parents. Some were even better than the parents. After you make seeds make sure you dry them out completely with rice or silica packets. Once they are dry you can either refrigerate them or freeze them. Refrigeration will extend the shelf life about 2 to 5 years possible more, freezing them extends the shelf life up to 20+ plus years. I heard that if you froze seeds it would cut back on the germination rate which i knew wasn't true but just in case I did an experiment in which i froze and thawed 30 beans over a hundred times with no effect on germination.

 

[DST]

Every time i made colloidal silver the ppm never went past 28 ppm. I tried all kinds of techniques to raise it such as boiling the water, higher wattage, constantly clean the silver, and etc. and still same ppm. However it always worked when i sprayed the plants.

To be honest I have never measured the ppm of the CS I have made. It works though so I never felt the need. I have seen others complain about shop bought CS not working though. 30ppm seems quit low but I am no scientist.

 

[Morriston55]

Thanks very much for all that info, I will spray daily for 2 weeks maximum. I will be flipping that tent to flower in 5 days time, not that it really matters I dont think because the plant I am going to pollenae has already been flowerring about 1 week, so will be 3 week when I pollenate it so should have some pistils and resin to hit. I will post pictures of any development on the plants branch itself to show others and get any pointers.

Im a little intimidated by having the pollen sacs in my flower room with 4 other plants, hoping I dont mess that up and they open up on my right inside that tent, seems difficult. Im thinking when most look ready to pop I can simply cut that whole branch off and bring it to another room where the plant I want to pollinate is? Or is taking the sacs off individually with tweezers advised

 

[rshackleferd]

To be honest I have never measured the ppm of the CS I have made. It works though so I never felt the need. I have seen others complain about shop bought CS not working though. 30ppm seems quit low but I am no scientist.

Store bought stuff is a joke, first lesson i learned when i first started breeding feminized seeds. Wasted so much money and time on that junk. You are right about the 30ppm being low, i was in panic mode when it wouldn't raise past 30ppm and a lot of members said thats the minimum to flip but knocking on wood it always worked.

 

[DST]

Store bought stuff is a joke, first lesson i learned when i first started breeding feminized seeds. Wasted so much money and time on that junk. You are right about the 30ppm being low, i was in panic mode when it wouldn't raise past 30ppm and a lot of members said thats the minimum to flip but knocking on wood it always worked.

If it works don't break it eh!

 

[Uberknot]

Thanks very much for all that info, I will spray daily for 2 weeks maximum. I will be flipping that tent to flower in 5 days time, not that it really matters I dont think because the plant I am going to pollenae has already been flowerring about 1 week, so will be 3 week when I pollenate it so should have some pistils and resin to hit. I will post pictures of any development on the plants branch itself to show others and get any pointers.

Im a little intimidated by having the pollen sacs in my flower room with 4 other plants, hoping I dont mess that up and they open up on my right inside that tent, seems difficult. Im thinking when most look ready to pop I can simply cut that whole branch off and bring it to another room where the plant I want to pollinate is? Or is taking the sacs off individually with tweezers advised

You can watch them and when you see them fatten up clip the branch then put it in water outside the tent and they will continue to open the flowers. I have done pollination inside a tent one branch with female pollen. You would be very very careful and no wind blowing. You can tap very very lightly the bottom of an open flower to get a small amount of pollen to drop and spread it on the branches you want seeds from. You may get a couple seeds else where doing it inside the tent, but if you are careful you will pollinate the branch. If you look at my blog you can see a female ruderalis hybrid that I took my finger nail tapped a flower and moved pollen to a couple already flowering spots on the lower branches.

You can pick flowers off and focus on one or two if you don't want a lot of them growing.

I have been using 50 ppm on another female the last week and have already noticed male flowers growing so I stopped spraying it. I have 3 male flowers growing at the very bottom and will do the same thing to this female.

This was my first time doing this and it's not that hard you just have to watch them closely and notice when the male flowers start to plump up with the pollen sacs. Good Luck!