Yesdog
Well-Known Member
lol cracked up when they hit the bostom dynamics robot. he couldnt kick it over
Software engineer grows (DWC) weed pt 2 w/ timelapse!
- Thread starter Yesdog
- Start date
Freddie Millergogo
Well-Known Member
Nice some MMJ dude on youtube built a chiller using the same tech to cool PCs. I cannot think of the name it is a French word...Peltier It works really well and he said he has no issues keeping his water in the high 50sF!trimmed em up a bit and switched over to HPS. It's getting REALLLY cold here right now, struggling to keep rez temps above 66. Finally get to use some full strength lighting though.
Yesdog
Well-Known Member
Yeah ive actually got a peltier cooler on the side of the rez, has been really nice and keeping the temps down during lights off- definitely not perfect tho lol. Right now the rez temps are at like 64, and the cooler only kicks on above 68. hoping things stay warm enough the next 6 weeks
ive got a big problem with condensation right now. The tent is sealed and when it hits lights out all the humidity just condenses on the sides. I think i got all the electronics out of the way, but man.. its definitely getting wet in there. ive gotta start venting more or something, just ordered a dehumidifier too.
Hey man, I made a Pi tutorial with a Humidity sensor + relay. You could easily use the sensor and connect to a better relay to power a fan to control the humidity.
https://www.rollitup.org/t/diy-raspberry-pi-dht11-sensor-sainsmart-2-channel-relay.923374/
https://www.rollitup.org/t/diy-raspberry-pi-dht11-sensor-sainsmart-2-channel-relay.923374/
Freddie Millergogo
Well-Known Member
Dehumidifiers are pretty awesome. Very useful for many uses. There are these mini ones they sell on Amazon, Bed Bath and Beyond and other places. They are like for a closet. I am not sure if they are any good but they are cheap.
70 pints for $48? WTF?
http://www.target.com/p/sunpentown-70-pint-mini-dehumidifier-black-silver-sd-350/-/A-10722662?ref=tgt_adv_XS000000&AFID=google_pla_df&CPNG=&adgroup=&LID=700000001170770pgs&network=g&device=c&location=9029016&gclid=CjwKEAjw1qHABRDU9qaXs4rtiS0SJADNzJisuTw7UnhzO5d3aBvtwLVl3dBMutZ4FYgAfdBkQj5DVRoCOWbw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds
$20?
http://www.target.com/p/eva-dry-renewable-mini-dehumidifier-white/-/A-12934624?lnk=rec|mwebpdpexsrch|top_sellers|mwebpdpexsrch|12934624|3
Lots of stores sell them.
You could write a VB program to get the dehumidifier to kick in at a certain RH. Not sure if VB can then update your Facebook page.
Yesdog
Well-Known Member
So I've actually already got a humidity sensor and unused relay hooked up to my (pi based) system. Was planning on it being lighting controls, heater, humidifier etc whatever I needed next lol. The issue I have right now is my damn tent is just.... packed. I bought one of those little amazon dehumidifiers (peltier based), hopefully i can find somewhere to put the damn thing. As far as automated fan controls, that was going to be my big plan- but yea, just no space. I'm also in a tough spot- the sealed tent is jacking my humidity way out, but, it also shields the plants from the 40 degree weather outside lol. I added some very minimal outside air exchange, so at least the tent is mostly dry before the next light period.
Thanks! Yea I'll probably open-source it soon, sometime after this grow. The graphing is definitely key, but its so good because I didnt actually write it lol. It's an off-the-shelf metrics DB/UI, but it just does the job impossibly well. So my system just shoots the stats off to the metrics system (hosted on a home server) and hosts the grafana UI. 24 hours of data crosses a lot of datapoints, so much more responsive having it hosted off the pi
EDIT: the irony is i initially sealed the tent just to keep CO2 in, but I recently stopped using it anyways. now its sealed to keep my plants from frosting over
Freddie Millergogo
Well-Known Member
Let us know if the little dehumidifier works.
Yesdog
Well-Known Member
Dehumidifier sorta works- seems to keep things at about 60-70% for me. The weather just got warm again, so im just gonna break the seal I think and start venting into the tent again.
Updated picture- they're taking to flowering very well. I will never again grow different phenotypes in the same system- 3 phenos of Hula Haze, 1 Amnesia Lemon... and damn does it show. All different sizes and shapes =\
EDIT: Ill hopefully post another time lapse soon. Honestly now that the plants are so big, you cant see much from the webcam anyways.
Yesdog
Well-Known Member
another attempt at cloning. My first attempt failed, then i tried something different (erm, with rosemary) and it seemed to work ok so far. So, trying it again with some monster crop clones (2nd week of flowering, so maybe just regular).
EDIT: these are now in an enclosed area to keep humidity up for a day. All I did was prep em, scrape em, rubbed everything with dry rooting powder, then into a small cup of water.
EDIT: these are now in an enclosed area to keep humidity up for a day. All I did was prep em, scrape em, rubbed everything with dry rooting powder, then into a small cup of water.
Mohican
Well-Known Member
I am watching this!
I keep telling people to try Raspberry pi projects. This is awesome.
Clones are easy, don't baby them.
I grew an indoor Malawi Gold pure sativa and when it started drooping at bedtime I got freaked. Now I use that drooping characteristic to identify how much sativa is in a cross.
Thanks for posting this!
Cheers,
Mo
I keep telling people to try Raspberry pi projects. This is awesome.
Clones are easy, don't baby them.
I grew an indoor Malawi Gold pure sativa and when it started drooping at bedtime I got freaked. Now I use that drooping characteristic to identify how much sativa is in a cross.
Thanks for posting this!
Cheers,
Mo
Freddie Millergogo
Well-Known Member
Sativas always seem to freak me out. They always look stringy like they are dying.
His clones are looking good. Cheap Schultz brand rooting powder at Wal Mart and others stores works fine. Just keep those babies under T8/T5s or CFL/LED. Big Halide lights will burn em up.
Mohican
Well-Known Member
I just went back to the first post and double-checked your nutes. A magic ingredient for hydro and cloning is ProTekt silica. It makes a big difference in cell structure, root growth, and rigidity. I saw a big difference with and without it. Cal/Mag is another key nute along with micro nutes from kelp or a bottle.
I am back in organic soil now because tracking all of the hydro variables was killing me! Looks like you are making it a possibility for the future.
Cheers,
Mo
I am back in organic soil now because tracking all of the hydro variables was killing me! Looks like you are making it a possibility for the future.
Cheers,
Mo
Yesdog
Well-Known Member
Thanks! I'm planning on open sourcing this thing sometime soon- I've got plans for another addition: basically a COB LED array/range hood with *another* pi lol. I wanted to showcase the remote nature/ability of the platform I'm writing, so having another example component that works on a remote pi would be really cool (basically would have a 'top' and 'bottom' pi controlling various things, instead of breaking my brain trying to extend digital wiring).
But yea, once that is done, and I get some of my upstream commits to pi4j (the project im using for the base device interfacing) it should be good to go.
That's really interesting, I guess I did notice drooping more in the big sativas. Never seemed to stop em tho, and the clones I got from the big one are rock solid so far- never dropped an inch lol
Yeah I've been using pro-tekt pretty religiously now, still trying to wrap my head around the chemistry tho, as pretty much everything I read says the stuff will fall out of solution quick. I'm mostly sticking with hydro just because i know nothing about dirt lol The hydro stuff also gives me a chance to remember some of my chemistry, which was a big focus of mine when i was younger. I'm loving getting to practice the theory, its so cool when things work like the chemistry describes.
I've got a weak LED lamb im using to keep our indoor herbs alive, will probably move the clones over there once I see some nubs. Right now they're sitting in my closet on my home server to keep em warm
Freddie Millergogo
Well-Known Member
Silica is "the sh*t" as the young people say. Great for watering and also foliar sprays. I just got hip on how helpful Silica is including helping keep spider mites away.
Dude I am looking forward to your Java cloud based networked, social media enabled DIY COB LED setup.
Dude I am looking forward to your Java cloud based networked, social media enabled DIY COB LED setup.
Hey man, what ph sensor are you using? I found some but there are liek $110 total. http://www.atlas-scientific.com/product_pages/components/usb-iso.html
http://www.atlas-scientific.com/product_pages/probes/ph_probe.html
http://www.atlas-scientific.com/product_pages/probes/ph_probe.html
Yesdog
Well-Known Member
Thanks! Oh, and don't forget the environment-controlled waffle maker, its clutchSilica is "the sh*t" as the young people say. Great for watering and also foliar sprays. I just got hip on how helpful Silica is including helping keep spider mites away.
Dude I am looking forward to your Java cloud based networked, social media enabled DIY COB LED setup.
So I'm actually using the Atlas Scientific Tentacle Shield Mini with one of the Atlas pH control modules (I'll eventually get other modules, so sprung for the multi-component shield). I just did the I2C wiring to the Pi instead of the USB module. The USB module gives you the... UART interface- all the atlas stuff can do UART (over USB or direct) and I2C. I mostly tried to use I2C interfere for everything due to lack of UART ports, but the USB connection should give you an 'extra' UART. Should work great still.
That was about $100 right there. The probe itself, I got a Milwaukee Instruments probe from amazon, about $40.
The atlas stuff uses the same BNC probes that everything else does, so any pH probe with a BNC connector should work. I went with a cheap one, but not the cheapest- the chinese ones apparently drift really bad and need to be calibrated often. The Milwaukee ones are good industrial (but not lab) grade probes. I'm shooting for being able to run the probe a full grow without calibration- a decent one should be able to do that for you.