Recycled Organic Living Soil (ROLS) and No Till Thread

calliandra

Well-Known Member
Will do we have some nice local shop called eco grow and they are like a organic forum in a store they have alot of stuff. Natural korean farming ingredients and trace minerals and much more so I willigo and ask for some high N guano and plenty of castings for my big bag if soil and try to keep my main soil base at a well balanced npk mix and then add heavier N or P or K mixes depending on which stage im in
no not hi N.
When you topdress she's be going into flower. She doesn't need hi N then.
 

yungkodama

Active Member
Ah you've already started!
Ah then just make AACT and foliar & water with that a few times.
It will get things started
I might aswell never really thought of that. I was planning on maybe top dressing with very little guano and then later on some P and K just to give it a boost. Maybe I dry up some household stuff and ash it up or mash it and give it to the babes when its time. Isue with making teas really is the noise lol dumb question but would a simple water and casting mix work out?
 

calliandra

Well-Known Member
I might aswell never really thought of that. I was planning on maybe top dressing with very little guano and then later on some P and K just to give it a boost. Maybe I dry up some household stuff and ash it up or mash it and give it to the babes when its time. Isue with making teas really is the noise lol dumb question but would a simple water and casting mix work out?
The purpose of an aerated compost tea is to get the microorganisms to multiply and become very active. So they are going full speed when added to the soil and can jump in to serve the plant immediately.

Whereas if you "just" add the compost, especially if topdressing, the effect is slower.
Sure you can just make a compost extract too: you let water flow through the compost and catch the runoff. But that will only give you a few micros and mainly nutrients such as humic/fulvic acids (depending on the quality of your compost).

Yeah the noise is annoying. Been thinking of how it could be made quieter ;) But it's definitely worth the nerves haha

And yes, topdress like 2-3 days before you switch actually, so when the stretch sets in, the nutrients/micros are already there.
 
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yungkodama

Active Member
The purpose of an aerated compost tea is to get the microorganisms to multiply and become very active. So they are going full speed when added to the soil and can jump in to serve the plant immediately.

Whereas if you "just" add the compost, especially if topdressing, the effect is slower.
Sure you can just make a compost extract too: you let water flow through the compost and catch the runoff. But that will only give you a few micros and mainly nutrients such as humic/fulvic acids (depending on the quality of your compost).

Yeah the noise is annoying. Been thinking of how it could be made quieter ;) But it's definitely worth the nerves haha
It really really sounds worth it but the noise outside would draw some ears and theres no reason why I should have one, might consider doing it inside but my fan already is loud lol but damn just might get into it. Spending the 40 or 50 total to make the tote and pump draws me back a bit since im a bit short so I might just take the drenching method and do a light drench and try to find a easy foliar recipe. I like the idea but I guess the universe wants me to take it slow this time :)
 

Crab Pot

Well-Known Member
Elaine Ingram and Clackamas Coot have both recently stated that topdressing with quality compost adds significantly more biology to your soil than compost tea. I have an air lift brewer and no longer use it. If you want biology, make your own compost and mulch with organic straw (non-organic straw is often sprayed with round up to prevent weeds). Mulching is key! Malibu's Bu Blend is a high quality commercial compost.

Keep in mind that when top dressing amendments, it takes a couple of weeks for the raw amendments to completely break down and become plant available. It also takes a little practice learning to read your plants and knowing when and how much to top dress with. Very easy to get the soil out of balance by over top dressing. If you're going to top dress for flower, adding the amendments a week prior to flip usually works well. Mixing the amendments with a little compost or worm castings is even better.

I am a no-till grower, building my own soils, using homemade compost. The bigger the pots, the more biology. I can't emphasize the importance enough of large pots for soil biology and healthy plants. I'm in 25 gallon pots and will be going bigger in the future. They are actually much easier on my back then the 10 gallon pots I used to lug around because I don't have to move them at all with no- till. Mofo is starting his 20th cycle in the same no-till pot, it just keeps getting better. I top dress once, at the beginning of the cycle with two tablespoons each of Neem/Karanja seed meal and kelp meal per container. That's it! The key is to leave the rootball and chop up all the leftover leaves and stems, then top dress them back into the same pot.

Heres a great Mofo recipe:

1/3 peat moss
1/3 pumice
1/3 compost

Per cu/ft:

1/2 cup crab meal
1/2 cup neem seed or Karanja meal
1/2 cup Kelp meal

6 cups basalt
1/2 cup gypsum

1 cup malted barley (freshly ground)

8 cups BioChar (charged)

Edit: Another benefit to large no-till pots is pests. Pests are not usually a problem in no-till.

IMG_2948.JPG IMG_3003.JPG IMG_2965.JPG IMG_3043.JPG
 
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yungkodama

Active Member
The purpose of an aerated compost tea is to get the microorganisms to multiply and become very active. So they are going full speed when added to the soil and can jump in to serve the plant immediately.

Whereas if you "just" add the compost, especially if topdressing, the effect is slower.
Sure you can just make a compost extract too: you let water flow through the compost and catch the runoff. But that will only give you a few micros and mainly nutrients such as humic/fulvic acids (depending on the quality of your compost).

Yeah the noise is annoying. Been thinking of how it could be made quieter ;) But it's definitely worth the nerves haha

And yes, topdress like 2-3 days before you switch actually, so when the stretch sets in, the nutrients/micros are already there.
The purpose of an aerated compost tea is to get the microorganisms to multiply and become very active. So they are going full speed when added to the soil and can jump in to serve the plant immediately.

Whereas if you "just" add the compost, especially if topdressing, the effect is slower.
Sure you can just make a compost extract too: you let water flow through the compost and catch the runoff. But that will only give you a few micros and mainly nutrients such as humic/fulvic acids (depending on the quality of your compost).

Yeah the noise is annoying. Been thinking of how it could be made quieter ;) But it's definitely worth the nerves haha

And yes, topdress like 2-3 days before you switch actually, so when the stretch sets in, the nutrients/micros are already there.
Sweet ill def do that ! Thank you for helping me and guiding me through this little part if the thread! You helped me alot
 

CaptainCAVEMAN

Well-Known Member
Elaine Ingram and Clackamas Coot have both recently stated that topdressing with quality compost adds significantly more biology to your soil than compost tea. I have an air lift brewer and no longer use it. If you want biology, make your own compost and mulch with organic straw (non-organic straw is often sprayed with round up to prevent weeds). Mulching is key! Malibu's Bu Blend is a high quality commercial compost.

Keep in mind that when top dressing amendments, it takes a couple of weeks for the raw amendments to completely break down and become plant available. It also takes a little practice learning to read your plants and knowing when and how much to top dress with. Very easy to get the soil out of balance by over top dressing. If you're going to top dress for flower, adding the amendments a week prior to flip usually works well. Mixing the amendments with a little compost or worm castings is even better.

I am a no-till grower, building my own soils, using homemade compost. The bigger the pots, the more biology. I can't emphasize the importance enough of large pots for soil biology and healthy plants. I'm in 25 gallon pots and will be going bigger in the future. They are actually much easier on my back then the 10 gallon pots I used to lug around because I don't have to move them at all with no- till. Mofo is starting his 20th cycle in the same no-till pot, it just keeps getting better. I top dress once, at the beginning of the cycle with two tablespoons each of Neem/Karanja seed meal and kelp meal per container. That's it! The key is to leave the rootball and chop up all the leftover leaves and stems, then top dress them back into the same pot.

Heres a great Mofo recipe:

1/3 peat moss
1/3 pumice
1/3 compost

Per cu/ft:

1/2 cup crab meal
1/2 cup neem seed or Karanja meal
1/2 cup Kelp meal

6 cups basalt
1/2 cup gypsum

1 cup malted barley (freshly ground)

Edit: Another benefit to large no-till pots is pests. Pests are not usually a problem in no-till.

View attachment 3813141 View attachment 3813143 View attachment 3813145 View attachment 3813146
Great post man, i also only topdress.

Great looking buds too!:clap:
 

yungkodama

Active Member
Elaine Ingram and Clackamas Coot have both recently stated that topdressing with quality compost adds significantly more biology to your soil than compost tea. I have an air lift brewer and no longer use it. If you want biology, make your own compost and mulch with organic straw (non-organic straw is often sprayed with round up to prevent weeds). Mulching is key! Malibu's Bu Blend is a high quality commercial compost.

Keep in mind that when top dressing amendments, it takes a couple of weeks for the raw amendments to completely break down and become plant available. It also takes a little practice learning to read your plants and knowing when and how much to top dress with. Very easy to get the soil out of balance by over top dressing. If you're going to top dress for flower, adding the amendments a week prior to flip usually works well. Mixing the amendments with a little compost or worm castings is even better.

I am a no-till grower, building my own soils, using homemade compost. The bigger the pots, the more biology. I can't emphasize the importance enough of large pots for soil biology and healthy plants. I'm in 25 gallon pots and will be going bigger in the future. They are actually much easier on my back then the 10 gallon pots I used to lug around because I don't have to move them at all with no- till. Mofo is starting his 20th cycle in the same no-till pot, it just keeps getting better. I top dress once, at the beginning of the cycle with two tablespoons each of Neem/Karanja seed meal and kelp meal per container. That's it! The key is to leave the rootball and chop up all the leftover leaves and stems, then top dress them back into the same pot.

Heres a great Mofo recipe:

1/3 peat moss
1/3 pumice
1/3 compost

Per cu/ft:

1/2 cup crab meal
1/2 cup neem seed or Karanja meal
1/2 cup Kelp meal

6 cups basalt
1/2 cup gypsum

1 cup malted barley (freshly ground)

Edit: Another benefit to large no-till pots is pests. Pests are not usually a problem in no-till.

View attachment 3813141 View attachment 3813143 View attachment 3813145 View attachment 3813146
You really broke it down for me lol Im going to need to divide the recipe as to the scale of my set up is just a 4 x 4 and what size pots would you use then? thanks for all the info you shot towards me!
 

yungkodama

Active Member
I would either use a 100 gallon (38" wide) GeoPot/Smart Pot or 4 -20 gallon containers for that sized tent.
Damn.... would you ever try doing short veg? Problem there is im trying to do short veg and I have regular seeds came from a fem plant but yeah. Original plan was 3 week veg maybe 4 week and then flip. I do understand and see how a bigger pot would help but its a big obstacle to me atleast
 

Crab Pot

Well-Known Member
Damn.... would you ever try doing short veg? Problem there is im trying to do short veg and I have regular seeds came from a fem plant but yeah. Original plan was 3 week veg maybe 4 week and then flip. I do understand and see how a bigger pot would help but its a big obstacle to me atleast
I don't understand the problem?

I often will germinate, veg and sex seed plants in one gallon containers, in another room. That way, I can transplant into their final container, veg another week or two, then flip.

They grow fast in large containers. As an experiment, I planted identical clones in 3 gallon and 25 gallon containers (same soil mix) to gauge their grow rates. The clone in the 25 gallon pot out grew the other clone by more than I could of ever imagined. It didn't look like the same plant, so much bigger and healthier.
 

yungkodama

Active Member
I don't understand the problem?

I often will germinate, veg and sex seed plants in one gallon containers, in another room. That way, I can transplant into their final container, veg another week or two, then flip.

They grow fast in large containers. As an experiment, I planted identical clones in 3 gallon and 25 gallon containers (same soil mix) to gauge their grow rates. The clone in the 25 gallon pot out grew the other clone by more than I could of ever imagined. It didn't look like the same plant, so much bigger and healthier.
I want to give it a try on a grow sounds likea fun experiment. I might give it a try 2nd or 3rd grow maybe 2nd because it does sound interesting. Last year I had a OG kush in a 20 gal and I loved her she was big I wish I knew more about training and what not then she was nice, genetics not so much. Think I can take some clones and do maybe 6 in a 4 x 4 and try doing a mainlining grow or just say fuck it and throw in 10 to 12 clones and go about it. But a big giant pot sounds fun, throw some worms in there to shit lol
 

calliandra

Well-Known Member
Elaine Ingram and Clackamas Coot have both recently stated that topdressing with quality compost adds significantly more biology to your soil than compost tea.
Ah I'd love to read up on that to get her full meaning! Do you remember where she said that?

I don't know Coots but have been studying with Ingham, and I would tend to understand it thus:

YES there is more biological diversity in compost than in a tea made of it.
But in situations where the biology isn't active enough to handle nutrient cycling (because non existent or damaged for whatever reason), a compost tea is a great booster, as it adds highly active organisms.

So it actually just depends on what the situation is and what you're trying to achieve in what time span
.
And yes, a fully living soil in a good sized no-till container (which by its mass will buffer influences that are damaging to the microbial herd) will not need that kind of activation, at least seldom enough that restocking via compost is enough ;)
 

Crab Pot

Well-Known Member
Ah I'd love to read up on that to get her full meaning! Do you remember where she said that?

I don't know Coots but have been studying with Ingham, and I would tend to understand it thus:

YES there is more biological diversity in compost than in a tea made of it.
But in situations where the biology isn't active enough to handle nutrient cycling (because non existent or damaged for whatever reason), a compost tea is a great booster, as it adds highly active organisms.

So it actually just depends on what the situation is and what you're trying to achieve in what time span
.
And yes, a fully living soil in a good sized no-till container (which by its mass will buffer influences that are damaging to the microbial herd) will not need that kind of activation, at least seldom enough that restocking via compost is enough ;)

Dr Ingram said that on Hash Church recently, probably two, three months ago. She also said that AACT is only beneficial in soil if the compost was of poor quality to start with, or as a foliar spray.

You don't know Clackamas Coot?! Really!! He's been at the forefront of the living soil, no-till movement for years. He introduced NeemIMG_3014.JPG , Karanja, Comfrey, Aloe and much, much more to the community. How about Mountain Organics, do you know of him?

Check this thread out. Read at least the first 20-30 pages. It, along with the original No-till thread changed my life and many others.


https://forum.grasscity.com/threads/no-till-gardening-revisited.1400505/

Follow Mountain Organics on IG. Review the old posts.



IMG_3048.JPG IMG_3093.JPG
IMG_2965.JPG

Quality compost and mulching are key!
 
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whitebb2727

Well-Known Member
does anyone have a lot of experience with growing with seaweed? I ve been getting great results using nothing but liquid (or powdered) seaweed for my vegging plants and also my flowering plants are looking super healthy since Ive started using once in a while. of course my pots are filled with other old amendments and mostly compost. my question is has anyone had negative effects from using too much in flowering? thanks
I add espoma sea kelp meal to my soil. Good stuff.
 

whitebb2727

Well-Known Member
I've got another question if someone wouldn't mind answering.. I know 5 gallon pots aren't ideal for organic growing and bigger would be better but at least for now it is what i plan to use! That said, i understand i can't veg them for too given the size of the containers. Is 3 - 4 weeks veg reasonable when using 5 gallon pots with living soil?
That will work fine. I use 5 gallon containers. Though I'm not exactly not till. I make a large batch of soil and rotate the soil. As I'm growing the previous soil is re amended.
 
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