Open Show n' Tell 2016

Jozikins

Jozikins

Well-Known Member
santacruztodd said:
So what is the exact procedure for shatter? Is it a concentrate or an extract? I am a newbie-bear with me :)
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That would be a hell of a right up for me to tell you exactly how, it also wouldn't be fair to everyone who worked so hard learning themselves, but I'll give you a few tips. first, shatter is an extracted cannabis oil concentrate, so you can call it either a concentrate or an extract.

Basically you pack glass tubes or a recirculating device (expensive) with trim and flower, run butane through it, and collect the cannabis enriched butane solution in a vessel. Typically you cool the solution with dry ice, circulating coolant, or a deep freezer to at least -50°f (must be colder than butane) for 6 to 48 hours (depending on your method.) afterwards you pour through a filter to help keep your now clean hash oil away from the vegetable fats that are frozen to the walls of your vessel from the cooling process. Evaporate your solution into a syrup, pour it onto parchment or a silicon mat, and then purge the remaining butane out of your hash oil under vacuum with low heat for at least 48 hours, flipping the hash oil over every 12 hours. By the end of the first 24 hours it should be stable to the touch, and depending on how much moisture you exposed your product to or how much it was agitated, it'll either sugar or shatter. dry conditions with little agitation will consistently give you shatter as long as you properly de-wax (the cooling method I mentioned) and start with high quality trim and butane.

You can also do rosin pressing, but a lot of people know a lot more about that on here than I do. rosin pressing uses heat and pressure instead of a dangerous solvent. benefit of a solvent is that the lower temperatures can keep a lot more flavor around and you can clean a product that has brown hash oil into something blonde or even clear.
 
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Jozikins

Jozikins

Well-Known Member
Smidge34 said:
Where do you find a deep freeze that cools to -50f Joz? The cooling part instead of winterizing is new to me.
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It is winterizing and de-waxing, I'm just using laymen for the noob. there are several cryogenic freezers you can get off a lab equipment auction websites that go down to -85°f for not too much money. I use dry ice because I gotta wait for a cash opportunity to buy one, I'm sure y'all understand how that goes. I've been using large bricks of dry ice from a local ice wholesaler. Dry ice is a bone chilling -119°f, but you have to place your vessel directly onto the large unbroken blocks. I use an 8 cup Pyrex measuring cup with a lid, you definitely do not want to use a casserole dish. Get an appropriate sized thick ice chest for how many measuring cups you want to use. mine is 118 gallon or something like that so I can fit 5 or 6 measuring cups. break up remaining dry ice and pack it in-between the walls of the ice chest and the measuring cups, really pack it in there. I recommend 15lbs of dry ice for every measuring cup. 1 - 1.5lbs of trim can be blasted into each measuring cup. once you have your cups in the ice chest with lids on (keep co2 gas from getting in your butane and keep your butane from spilling if too much dry ice evaporates) and everything is well packed with dry ice, cover with lots of thick beach towels to insulate and close the lid. 16 to 24 hours works well for very high quality trim, 36 to 48 hours for lesser quality or more stubborn product. Or do 48 hours with very high quality trim and flower and get something almost completely clear with nearly no color like you see the big dogs posting on Instagram.

I use a 5" round fry basket with a flat bottom which perfectly holds a unbleached coffee filter and perfectly suspends itself over my measuring cup because fry baskets have hooks. pour everything clear through while trying you avoid pouring the huge patty of fat stuck the bottom of your measuring cup. if the milky butane at the bottom gets into your filter don't worry, the filter will catch most of it and it will add stability. I've noticed when I avoid all fats I get a delicate pull snap that easily sugars, so it is quite difficult to purge properly and flip, but the quality and flavor are supreme. I recommend terp proof papers if you're too make it that clean, otherwise you'll cry over how good the parchment smells compared to the actual hash lol

The guys from Bhogart introduced me to a 134a coolant recirculator. they use it on their de-wax column on their closed loop, but I was thinking of running it with a wart chiller coil through a ice chest full of acetone or 99% isopropyl. because I could buy that sucker cash right now. Bhogarts new shop isn't too far from me.
 
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sandhill larry

sandhill larry

Well-Known Member
rollitup said:
Pardon me, Larry, I don't think Neem Oil will take care of worms. For that you should spray with BT mixed in water. I spray my outdoor plants 3 times during the very beginning of flowering. It's a beneficial bacteria that kills worms. Any caterpillar remedy at Casa de Pot will have Bacillus Thurengiensis in it.

Neem Oil is still good for many other pests, as well as a fungicide.

:mrgreen:
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I was also having crazy numbers of stinkbugs as well as the worms on my Rotten Stinking Bastard {BST2 FP#3}. I hit her with an Orchard spray after I had picked off all the worms I could find. Did spray with Neem too once or twice. Found a few odd worms after, but not in the same numbers. Since I had rot problems proportional to the worms, I feel like they were the source of that. There were only two or three worms on the Hurricane Head, and that is about the number of buds lost to rot on her.
 
bi polar express

bi polar express

Well-Known Member
sandhill larry said:
I was also having crazy numbers of stinkbugs as well as the worms on my Rotten Stinking Bastard {BST2 FP#3}. I hit her with an Orchard spray after I had picked off all the worms I could find. Did spray with Neem too once or twice. Found a few odd worms after, but not in the same numbers. Since I had rot problems proportional to the worms, I feel like they were the source of that. There were only two or three worms on the Hurricane Head, and that is about the number of buds lost to rot on her.
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The bulk of my mold problems seem to come from worms I noticed a big difference when I started using B.T. Every outing
 
Jozikins

Jozikins

Well-Known Member
Smidge34 said:
Where do you find a deep freeze that cools to -50f Joz? The cooling part instead of winterizing is new to me.
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Also, don't use ethanol and your kitchen freezer to winterize. not ever. you're degrading your quality with ethanol, and it doesn't even make sense. If butane is naturally -22°f and the ethanol in your freezer is 0°f (if you got a banging ass fridge), then it is impossible to get a better result in your freezer. you'd be better off insulating your dish to keep it near -22. butane itself is a coolant, so take full advantage of it and spare your terps from ethanol. butane, dry ice, weed. simple recipe lol

Edit: sorry if I assumed you were doing it with ethanol or a freezer, but your post reminded me that people do this so I figured I'd do a quick PSA for all the mad scientists out there. also don't put butane in your freezer, it starts to evaporates (very slowly) between -1 and 1°f. I don't know what kind of trouble that can cause, but I know it spells trouble in my book.
 
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BcDigger

BcDigger

Well-Known Member
Jozikins said:
That would be a hell of a right up for me to tell you exactly how, it also wouldn't be fair to everyone who worked so hard learning themselves, but I'll give you a few tips. first, shatter is an extracted cannabis oil concentrate, so you can call it either a concentrate or an extract.

Basically you pack glass tubes or a recirculating device (expensive) with trim and flower, run butane through it, and collect the cannabis enriched butane solution in a vessel. Typically you cool the solution with dry ice, circulating coolant, or a deep freezer to at least -50°f (must be colder than butane) for 6 to 48 hours (depending on your method.) afterwards you pour through a filter to help keep your now clean hash oil away from the vegetable fats that are frozen to the walls of your vessel from the cooling process. Evaporate your solution into a syrup, pour it onto parchment or a silicon mat, and then purge the remaining butane out of your hash oil under vacuum with low heat for at least 48 hours, flipping the hash oil over every 12 hours. By the end of the first 24 hours it should be stable to the touch, and depending on how much moisture you exposed your product to or how much it was agitated, it'll either sugar or shatter. dry conditions with little agitation will consistently give you shatter as long as you properly de-wax (the cooling method I mentioned) and start with high quality trim and butane.

You can also do rosin pressing, but a lot of people know a lot more about that on here than I do. rosin pressing uses heat and pressure instead of a dangerous solvent. benefit of a solvent is that the lower temperatures can keep a lot more flavor around and you can clean a product that has brown hash oil into something blonde or even clear.
Click to expand...
+rep
 
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