DIY COB Frame - How to ground the frame?

[chromex]

So, first thank you to the community for sharing the love and the information. I've learned so much from all of you, especially @Growmau5 (You rock man!)

I'm a total newb when I comes to LED and to DIY fixtures. I'm getting ready to build my first DIY COB setup. I've researched the following question and can't find the answer. I've also googled "how to ground computer case", "how to ground fixture", "how to ground frame" and also can't seem to find a straightforward answer that is applicable to a DIY light fixture. here's the question...

1. Is "grounding" the frame necessary?
2. If "grounding" is necessary, exactly how do I do this?
By frame, I'm planning on building a frame out of Aluminum angle to hold the heatsinks and COBs.

I understand that grounding is necessary when working with electrical appliances to minimize shock. I also understand that by "grounding" the appliance, risk of shock is mitigated by directing the electrical current to the ground, i.e. "EARTH" instead of your body.

This is my guess if someone can verify...
on the power cord, that plugs into the wall, there is a positive, negative and a ground. When I connect the plug to the LED driver, I connect each wire on the driver to the corresponding wire on the plug. Is it as easy as attaching a wire via screw directly to the frame and connecting it to the ground wire on the plug/power cord? Forgive me if what I just proposed is the dumbest thing you've ever heard, but that's my guess.

I'm not dumb. I am a total nerd in other areas of expertise, but somehow I totally missed all of my electrical classes. I'm guessing that the answer/solution is so easy it's almost common sense which is why I can't find a step by step guide on how to do it.

So to all the electrical nerds out there, is this necessary? If so, how do we do it so we can all minimize risks in our spaces?

 

[bseeds]

yep you got it secure wire to frame wire the ground wire from driver and plug to the wire your secured from frame

 

[Captain Keg]

So, first thank you to the community for sharing the love and the information. I've learned so much from all of you, especially @Growmau5 (You rock man!)

I'm a total newb when I comes to LED and to DIY fixtures. I'm getting ready to build my first DIY COB setup. I've researched the following question and can't find the answer. I've also googled "how to ground computer case", "how to ground fixture", "how to ground frame" and also can't seem to find a straightforward answer that is applicable to a DIY light fixture. here's the question...

1. Is "grounding" the frame necessary?
2. If "grounding" is necessary, exactly how do I do this?
By frame, I'm planning on building a frame out of Aluminum angle to hold the heatsinks and COBs.

I understand that grounding is necessary when working with electrical appliances to minimize shock. I also understand that by "grounding" the appliance, risk of shock is mitigated by directing the electrical current to the ground, i.e. "EARTH" instead of your body.

This is my guess if someone can verify...
on the power cord, that plugs into the wall, there is a positive, negative and a ground. When I connect the plug to the LED driver, I connect each wire on the driver to the corresponding wire on the plug. Is it as easy as attaching a wire via screw directly to the frame and connecting it to the ground wire on the plug/power cord? Forgive me if what I just proposed is the dumbest thing you've ever heard, but that's my guess.

I'm not dumb. I am a total nerd in other areas of expertise, but somehow I totally missed all of my electrical classes. I'm guessing that the answer/solution is so easy it's almost common sense which is why I can't find a step by step guide on how to do it.

So to all the electrical nerds out there, is this necessary? If so, how do we do it so we can all minimize risks in our spaces?

You don't have to ground it buddy, it's pointless.

If you want, you could run a wire from the frame, crimp a connector if you do it do it right.
Run the wire to an earth connection.

 

[chromex]

when you say earth connection, do you literally mean running a wire directly from the frame to a metal spike and sticking that spike into the ground? Sorry if this sounds really stupid...when it comes to electricity I honestly can claim an eternal stoner moment...

 

[Uberknot]

Some basics here

 

[Captain Keg]

when you say earth connection, do you literally mean running a wire directly from the frame to a metal spike and sticking that spike into the ground? Sorry if this sounds really stupid...when it comes to electricity I honestly can claim an eternal stoner moment...

No, not unless your planing an extension ha.
Do a small hole somewhere if you can't find one. Strip a peice of wire, I don't know say, 1mm UK, or 20 gauge US, crimp one end with a connector like the yellow one in the picture & fix it to the unit through the hole. Run the other end to an earth connection on your light fixture.

 

[chromex]

Uberknot, thanks for the link. I've watched the video multiple times but theres no mention of grounding the actual frame the heatsinks are all suspended with. Some threads in the forums talk about grounding the frame but no one actually shows a step by step way how to do it. I've read that it isn't necessary and others say its essential. Me? I'm confused. I just know that I want to do whatever I can to minimize electrical shocks

 

[chromex]

"Run the other end to an earth connection on your light fixture"
I'm just too "duh" to visualize this.

Let's say that the light fixture is the one in the picture. Where exactly do I find the "earth connection" on this fixture?

When you say earth connection on the fixture, do you mean the ground wire on the driver?

 

[AK_Militia907]

Hello all,

I happen to be a electrician in Alaska state. Our state code when wiring a industrial, commercial, or residential house with metal device box is to ground the box to the house grounding circuit.

With my personal DIY COB light I used the ground on the 120vac side to both ground the driver and the frame. Then pluged into power strip that pugs into a GFI recepticle to protect the house circuit in the unlikely case my light arcs, or somehow energizes the frame. Then switched my GFI breaker for that circuit out for a Arc fault/ GFI breaker.

I did this just to be safe, because gremlins live in electronical circuitry.

 

[Philip-O]

Hello all,

I happen to be a electrician in Alaska state. Our state code when wiring a industrial, commercial, or residential house with metal device box is to ground the box to the house grounding circuit.

With my personal DIY COB light I used the ground on the 120vac side to both ground the driver and the frame. Then pluged into power strip that pugs into a GFI recepticle to protect the house circuit in the unlikely case my light arcs, or somehow energizes the frame. Then switched my GFI breaker for that circuit out for a Arc fault/ GFI breaker.

I did this just to be safe, because gremlins live in electronical circuitry.

AK, if one already has installed GFCI receptacles, what would be the improvement in using a GFCI breaker, as I understand you are doing. I looked into the breakers, but they are expensive, and since my spaced is cabled for 20 amp. (as per the current breaker) I would need a couple in order not to go over 15amp. of actual consumption (considering other things which might be plugged in the same circuits).

Also, would you care to explain for me what would be the benefits, if any, of adding a fuse (10A?) on the AC side of the driver, as I have seen some suggest. I want to make fixtures using 3 CXB 3590 on a HLG-120H-C1400B and a 260w QB kit on a HLG-240H-2100A. Thanks!

 

[sonson176]

Anything conductive should be grounded. You're correct about the grounds providing a path for any faults to take back to the panel/service. Yes, you can splice all the grounds together to the one coming from the wall. The only circumstances that wouldn't permit that is equipment requiring intrinsically safe grounds. You'll most likely ever have to deal with that though unless you find yourself installing a logic controller or explosion proof relays.Post up some pictures of what you're working with if you're unsure of what connnections to make anywhere. Better to be safe than sorry!

GFCI breakers are used mainly to save money. Let's say you have 6 receptacles in a location that requires ground fault protection, fed from one circuit. 6 quality spec grade GFCI receptacles would cost more than one GFCI breaker, assuming it's not some old oddball panel. I've seen instances where multiple GFCI devices(such as a GFCI breaker feeding a GFCI receptacle with another GFCI device plugged in) start tripping each other relentlessly. They send out small monitoring currents and sometimes it's just enough to cause the others to read a fault and trip.

It's wise to add a fuse to any device. Make sure you get one rated just above what your draw is. Slow burn fuses are designed to survive temporary inrush/startup currents. Breakers in a panel are there mainly to protect the conductors from over currents. Fuses in devices are to protect the device.

 

[Philip-O]

Very clear and informative reply sonson, thank you very much. I´ll surely will come back for advice, and before plugging in I will show the device here and possibly to a local electrician. This way I have the fun and learning of the DIY with less risk.

Peace brother!

Anything conductive should be grounded. You're correct about the grounds providing a path for any faults to take back to the panel/service. Yes, you can splice all the grounds together to the one coming from the wall. The only circumstances that wouldn't permit that is equipment requiring intrinsically safe grounds. You'll most likely ever have to deal with that though unless you find yourself installing a logic controller or explosion proof relays.Post up some pictures of what you're working with if you're unsure of what connnections to make anywhere. Better to be safe than sorry!

GFCI breakers are used mainly to save money. Let's say you have 6 receptacles in a location that requires ground fault protection, fed from one circuit. 6 quality spec grade GFCI receptacles would cost more than one GFCI breaker, assuming it's not some old oddball panel. I've seen instances where multiple GFCI devices(such as a GFCI breaker feeding a GFCI receptacle with another GFCI device plugged in) start tripping each other relentlessly. They send out small monitoring currents and sometimes it's just enough to cause the others to read a fault and trip.

It's wise to add a fuse to any device. Make sure you get one rated just above what your draw is. Slow burn fuses are designed to survive temporary inrush/startup currents. Breakers in a panel are there mainly to protect the conductors from over currents. Fuses in devices are to protect the device.