Molasses Info & Help

NaturalFarmer

NaturalFarmer

Well-Known Member
Dr. Who said:
I use my own vermicompost (EWC, even store bought EWC has a fairly wide myco spectrum.) I do believe that you are what you eat, so my worms get a wide variety of things to compost for me....That gives a better spread.
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Very true!
I am almost 97.3% sure that store bought EWCs in the past were the source of a root aphid problem I had and even more sure of fungus gnats. I also hate finding balls of peat in my store bought EWCs. Nothing like paying hand over fist for peat filler even if at 5% of the mix.
 
Fastslappy

Fastslappy

Well-Known Member
Dr. Who said:
Any foliar use of the AACT is done with 18 hr old brew to apply bacteria to the plant surface to prevent or kill PM. (it changes the surface pH to ranges that do not allow PM to live. It lasts about 2 weeks. Fully brewing AACT takes between 36 and 48 hrs..
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can u go in to this in more detail ? I fight PM every summer in my gh
 
Dr. Who

Dr. Who

Well-Known Member
Fastslappy said:
can u go in to this in more detail ? I fight PM every summer in my gh
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Take a 1/4 cup EWC
1TBL molasses (unsulfured)
1 TBL alfalfa meal

PUT it all in a gallon of water in a high wall, small diameter container with an airstone or 2 in the bottom run by a larger 2 outlet Aquarium pump and let that bubble for 18 hrs at 70 deg....Filter the liquid through a stolen nylon from the wife (or what ever) and spray on your plants very 2 weeks to prevent/kill PM!

Horsetail grass tea works great also - that is brewed like normal and cooled and sprayed on as needed. Organic and the plant likes it! Can be used as long as you dare in bloom!
 
Fastslappy

Fastslappy

Well-Known Member
Frass rulz over molasses to jump start a tea ,
i use molasses only to jump start my LAB & BT cultures ( teaspoon of bt/lab & a 1/4 tsp molasses to a gal jug left to sit for 24hr warm ) the sugar is eaten by then , LAB has many uses & BT is for crawlers & fungus flies
I store LAB in molasses/dark brw sugar more brw sugar now days (cheaper)
molasses is a oversold waste product imo
I use organic coconut sugar that is collected at the inflorense of a blooming coconut tree much like maple syrup in my teas
I like that it contains more of a flowering content of beneficial goodness than tri-boiled beet/cane sugar
 
Fastslappy

Fastslappy

Well-Known Member
Dr. Who said:
Horsetail grass tea works great also - that is brewed like normal and cooled and sprayed on as needed. Organic and the plant likes it! Can be used as long as you dare in bloom!
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horsetail works but not 100% I'll try your tea method for sure ,how about late flower ?
 
Thaddeus Thundabuds

Thaddeus Thundabuds

Well-Known Member
Dr. Who said:
Yes! No doubt about it!

What soil are you starting with?

I ask because the soil will contain far more then your going to supply by simple additives.
I build my own soils.
I use my own vermicompost (EWC, even store bought EWC has a fairly wide myco spectrum.) I do believe that you are what you eat, so my worms get a wide variety of things to compost for me....That gives a better spread. I also use a steer/cow compost that brings even more to the table as far as new myco's.

Alfalfa meal contains some more and different ones also. I use a little of that in my basic AACT for those!
Kelp meal in the soil build adds some more different ones also.

Once I've built the soil and need to water it to begin the "cooking".....I use my basic AACT and add FUL HUMIX for the Humic and fulvic acids. The first in the bloom room watering is the same AACT mix and that's all I use it for (other then a short 18 hr tea in small amounts, filtered for use as an anti mold spray).

As far as a list goes......I know I contain these in my basic starter or "base" soil for sure. I know there are far more but I don't feel like having it tested to list them all.....kinda don't need to ya know?

Pisolithus tinctorius ..... Glomus intraradices
Rhizopogon amylopogon ..... Glomus mosseae
Rhizopogon fulvigleba ..... Glomus aggregatum
Rhizopogon luteolus ..... Glomus clarum
Rhizopogon villosuli ..... Glomus monosporum
Scleroderma cepa ..... Glomus deserticola
Scleroderma citrinum ..... Glomus brasilianum
Lacarria laccata ..... Gigaspora margarita
Lacarria bicolor ..... Glomus etunicatum

As for this base soil. It's my seedling/young plant soil that will feed for about 28-34 days - water only.
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Right on man. I am not at the building my own soil yet. I am trying to figure out how to flush, rinse, re-new and cook my used FFOC (foxfarm). my natural soil is a sandy loam, doesn't hold a lot of moisture when it's 108 degrees outside. So I was gonna start a compost with my used FF soil and use it on my houseplants after amendments. How do you check the nutrient value of the soil before and after its been activated.?
 
Fastslappy

Fastslappy

Well-Known Member
NaturalFarmer said:
I don't brew teas so I don't know much about them but I would think these two things are very different? Did you mean frass over EWCs?
BTi? Ive used MicrobeLift for birdbaths and have been happy with the price/%of BTi
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not saying frass over EWC , but frass has a huge amount life dormant awaiting water ,
where molasses is less alive if u will
frass will support life once it hits water even just getting moist will start life in yer package (keep dry)
frass is bug shit & dead bugs that is collected from over head trays of meal worms/beetles &/or Cricket
the best frass is not that dry as sand stuff that been over processed
 
iHearAll

iHearAll

Well-Known Member
molasses is best at feeding EM-1 to make EMe. Also Feeding EMe to make bokashi, FPE, FAA, FFE, that kind of shit. Also feed your AACT molasses and equal parts EMe, while it brews for upwards of 4 days, the molasses will feed the microorganisms and promote reproduction and multiplication. Molasses can be fed to vermiculture to promote reproduction periodically as well.
 
iHearAll

iHearAll

Well-Known Member
Fastslappy said:
do just pour it right on the bedding ?? I do know they like sweet
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hooooooo no. you should soak what you intended on feeding them in it. like the pulp from vegetable juicing for instance. A molasses tea works well also but is inconsistent and possibly more of a waste of molasses since much of it will pour right into the castings. If you make a tea, use it on a fresh bedding area.
 
Fastslappy

Fastslappy

Well-Known Member
iHearAll said:
also, ants help the decomposition of worm bedding and will not attack the worms. just an fyi if you find ants
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ants I search & destroy all nests
my locals are farmer ants they'll pass around aphids & scale both maeliies & Hard scale
 
iHearAll

iHearAll

Well-Known Member
Fastslappy said:
i am trying nematodes for ants / termites
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i tried nematodes for roaches but it was in vain. they for sure washed away in a hurricane that arrived a week later. poor planning on my part. so i just ignore the roaches and fight the mites and aphids with cedar, neem, and ghost peppers, and isopropyl alcohol interchangeably. the iso is a last resort to use on the soil line. avoid letting it touch the leaves of the plants as much as possible
 
Fastslappy

Fastslappy

Well-Known Member
I use a orange oil iso dawn mix for bad soil top fungus flies O oil is about 1/2% of mix & only lightly
didn't kill off the herd but does kill the flies & eggs instantly & the fly lavels all come crawling to the surface wiggling to death
I use a 3 prong fungus pest mng, the oil mix , BT , Dio-earth/neem meal dressing , the oil mix is the last resort if there's a huge explosive flies growth .
 
iHearAll

iHearAll

Well-Known Member
i made it sound like i have roaches in the grow room... this is not the case lol. roaches are in the worm bin...
 
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