SimonBarSinister
Well-Known Member
cant argue with fact and logic !And yet the modules I've already converted to run warm still radiate heat- and the plants respond differently as well. They look a bit more like they were grown under HID.
cant argue with fact and logic !And yet the modules I've already converted to run warm still radiate heat- and the plants respond differently as well. They look a bit more like they were grown under HID.
Ah, I run my veg nice n warm too, but I don't currently light it with LED.Correct, But Im aiming for growth in Veg and not many people talk about it. Ill drop the temp once I move to flower. what would you estimate the best temp for flower would be? Ive always thought 78F was a sweet spot.
Optimum temp for LED is 5-6° F warmer than HPS.
Wasn't sure if you saw my question earlier, but I feel it's relevant for the blanket statement made.Wouldn't that be dependent on total radiant watts and the coverage area?
Sure measuring leaf surface temperature is always optimal. The amount of light radiation will make a difference. That being said that statement is a good start and kinda like recommending a certain PH. For those that are on the next level you will have a certain recipe for a particular strain IE( feed strength PH as well as light levels temp humidity and even hours of light during flowering). Learning to read the plants is what this is all about. The guidelines I stated a great start and usually universal for most growers. Personally I like to run a little warm until the last 3 weeks. I generally like to slowly ramp down temp and humidity and hours of light during the final phases of flowering. I'll even generally lower my water temps the last week daily as well.Wasn't sure if you saw my question earlier, but I feel it's relevant for the blanket statement made.
Assuming this light ends up not doing so hot Ill be using it as a strictly Veg light, if it is awesome ill have to make another one lolAh, I run my veg nice n warm too, but I don't currently light it with LED.
It could help with ripening and hanging on to oils and such. I'm no expert myself but it seems to bring out the colors a little better a well.Cooling down towards the end, is that mainly a defense against molds?
Indeed, over 80F some of the more volatile terpenes begin evaporating. It makes sense that ripening is induced when stressful (late fall/early winter) factors of declining temperature and humidity are introduced, signalling a dire need to be pollinated before senescence. The colors, from my understanding, are largely linked to latent anthocyanin expression induced through cooler temperature near the end of the cycle, or even anecdotally through higher blue in the spectrum (this seems to be an unhealthy/unproductive expression denoting premature senescence.)It could help with ripening and hanging on to oils and such. I'm no expert myself but it seems to bring out the colors a little better a well.
You really shouldn't need any more red just run them close to the canopy at the 18-6" area and you will be happy with the results.. Only thing that would do better would be the 2700k you can add far red to make the plants go to sleep faster and wake up faster.. But that's about it IMOAnybody got an opinion on using far red stars in their cob set-up? I just have the 8 cxb3950 @50w , but i did choose 3000k ( even though i take a single digit pecentage decrease in lumens) because it's strictly for flower. I have four 600w blurple lights that work pretty well for veg and i run a perpetual grow so my areas are seperate.