Pictures of your DIY lights - Post your pics!!!

randydj

randydj

Well-Known Member
wietefras said:
@randydj, 275A should be fine yes :)

I've never had any issues with regular consumer breakers. Indeed if it does trip, just replace it with a slower one.
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Wietefras:

I noticed in the spec sheet for the HLG-185-c it states to run only two units on a 16A circuit with a type B Circuit Breaker or 3 with a type C CB. I understand that this has to do with the inrush current. I was just wondering how many you have actually run on one circuit? I plan to add a HLG-320-C when I build my more permanent grow room. starting in Jan. - Feb. I can easily isolate it on another circuit but I was just wondering.
 
wietefras

wietefras

Well-Known Member
@randydj, I only run two HLG-185-C.

Another option would be to switch on the drivers with a delay so they don't all have their inrush together at the same time.
 
randydj

randydj

Well-Known Member
wietefras said:
@randydj, I only run two HLG-185-C.

Another option would be to switch on the drivers with a delay so they don't all have their inrush together at the same time.
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wietefras:
Just took a look at your Arduino experiments .... thread cool. I do not have any sensors but will be controlling many aspects of my next grow with the Arduino. I have programed in several languages over the years but was pretty much out of it before C++ I dabble in lots of current languages but I am far from proficient. I have my current code to run the tent functioning and want to clean it up perhaps you could look at it and make some suggestions. I have to run out with the wife right now but can get back to you later if you are willing to take a look. Perhaps your other thread would be a better venue for programming stuff? If you feel it is to proprietary I understand.
Thanks,
 
wietefras

wietefras

Well-Known Member
Not sure if I can add much. It seems everybody has their own way of doing things. There are several projects for controlling/monitoring grows, but I felt none of them did what I wanted :)

Most of those projects have been abandoned after the founder hoped he/she could sell the work and no one bought it. Many are now gone from the internet.
 
Greengenes707

Greengenes707

Well-Known Member
randydj said:
wietefras:
Just took a look at your Arduino experiments .... thread cool. I do not have any sensors but will be controlling many aspects of my next grow with the Arduino. I have programed in several languages over the years but was pretty much out of it before C++ I dabble in lots of current languages but I am far from proficient. I have my current code to run the tent functioning and want to clean it up perhaps you could look at it and make some suggestions. I have to run out with the wife right now but can get back to you later if you are willing to take a look. Perhaps your other thread would be a better venue for programming stuff? If you feel it is to proprietary I understand.
Thanks,
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https://www.rollitup.org/t/multiple-driver-soft-on-set.866330/
 
randydj

randydj

Well-Known Member
Greengenes:

Not sure what you are referring to in the referenced paragraph?
I am using SSR to switch on the cobs so really creating a delay is not necessary to protect contacts. As far as the circuit breaker is concerned if it trips I can just go to a slower magnetic trip CB. I will be test firing this control panel later today and will get back to this thread then.
 
randydj

randydj

Well-Known Member
wietefras said:
Not sure if I can add much. It seems everybody has their own way of doing things. There are several projects for controlling/monitoring grows, but I felt none of them did what I wanted :)

Most of those projects have been abandoned after the founder hoped he/she could sell the work and no one bought it. Many are now gone from the internet.
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I will post my code later today. It is very custom to my environment and may not be very useful to anyone else and I don't need to get paid. I programed it for myself but if someone is running a 3x3x5 tent, have a solinoid controlled CO2 flow meter well they might find it useful. Building the control panel was way more involved than I originally envisioned but I am finally near completion.

Thanks,
 
S

sleepless_canuck

Well-Known Member
Evil-Mobo said:
Nice Build man! If they'd been out I would have gone that route over the 3590's........

What driver you running? How many watts each COB and total? Optics?
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No optics available that I know of for the 1825s.

I'm running around 70%.

Have a Watt meter showing up this week so I can get more accurate numbers.
 
Evil-Mobo

Evil-Mobo

Well-Known Member
sleepless_canuck said:
No optics available that I know of for the 1825s.

I'm running around 70%.

Have a Watt meter showing up this week so I can get more accurate numbers.
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Thanks for the reply good looking build. Sucks about the optics I think those COBs would rock with the Khatod Lenses.........
 
OrganicCanuck

OrganicCanuck

Well-Known Member
randydj said:
Hi Qball:

The picture you are referencing clearly shows the load on pin 2, the manufacturer's spec sheet shows the load on pin 1.

I do not know what failed but the terminal 1 is now shorted to the base plate which is wired to chassis ground creating a zero resistance fault. There is a lot of information about the poor quality control on these inexpensive SSRs and perhaps they were no good to begin with? I had no reason to suspect them and did not test them prior to installation. I had the load on the wrong terminal and they failed so was it my fault? I don't know but I would take the blame since it is clear in the spec sheet where to put the load. See the manufacturer's specs here: http://www.fotek.com.hk/solid/SSR-1.htm

This is the drawing from the spec sheet:

View attachment 3849543 View attachment 3849544

If you reverse the red and black wires in this picture you will achieve what the manufacture shows as correct.
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AC doesn't care what direction it flows, either or is fine. Inside those relays, either are optically isolated(better) or have magnetic coil. The load side literally connects its self like switch, putting incoming power on 1 or 2 is the exact same operation. If it were DC then there could be a diode which has a direction.
 
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