Pictures of your DIY lights - Post your pics!!!

randydj

randydj

Well-Known Member
Wow I just smoked my SSRs; this is going to cause a delay:cuss:
I cannot believe that the current flows from terminal 2 to 1 grrrrrrrrrrrrr. I think I knew this from a previous project but I have slept since then. Anyhow even with a GFI that tripped they fried.

Logic dictates hot to 1 or I should have over medicated and I may have got it correct!

SSR25.jpg

Oh well the new ones are on their way.
 
G

goofy81

Well-Known Member
I'm using a similar relay (most likely fake ) rated 40a luckily I'm only using about 0.8a on it.
Wait! What?! Current flows from 2-1 ? Are you sure it's only a one way thing like this? on the diagram it doesn't specify so. Might have to double check mine now..
 
bassman999

bassman999

Well-Known Member
goofy81 said:
I'm using a similar relay (most likely fake ) rated 40a luckily I'm only using about 0.8a on it.
Wait! What?! Current flows from 2-1 ? Are you sure it's only a one way thing like this? on the diagram it doesn't specify so. Might have to double check mine now..
Click to expand...
Looked to me like it could go both ways?!?
 
randydj

randydj

Well-Known Member
qballizhere said:
The ony difference between the 2 is the ground is connected to the ssr mounting bolt and and in the other pic it uses the frame that is already bonded to ground
Click to expand...
Hi Qball:

The picture you are referencing clearly shows the load on pin 2, the manufacturer's spec sheet shows the load on pin 1.

I do not know what failed but the terminal 1 is now shorted to the base plate which is wired to chassis ground creating a zero resistance fault. There is a lot of information about the poor quality control on these inexpensive SSRs and perhaps they were no good to begin with? I had no reason to suspect them and did not test them prior to installation. I had the load on the wrong terminal and they failed so was it my fault? I don't know but I would take the blame since it is clear in the spec sheet where to put the load. See the manufacturer's specs here: http://www.fotek.com.hk/solid/SSR-1.htm

This is the drawing from the spec sheet:

ScreenHunter_103 Dec. 09 09.57.jpg ScreenHunter_103 Dec. 09 09.54.jpg

If you reverse the red and black wires in this picture you will achieve what the manufacture shows as correct.
 
qballizhere

qballizhere

Well-Known Member
randydj said:
Hi Qball:

The picture you are referencing clearly shows the load on pin 2, the manufacturer's spec sheet shows the load on pin 1.

I do not know what failed but the terminal 1 is now shorted to the base plate which is wired to chassis ground creating a zero resistance fault. There is a lot of information about the poor quality control on these inexpensive SSRs and perhaps they were no good to begin with? I had no reason to suspect them and did not test them prior to installation. I had the load on the wrong terminal and they failed so was it my fault? I don't know but I would take the blame since it is clear in the spec sheet where to put the load. See the manufacturer's specs here: http://www.fotek.com.hk/solid/SSR-1.htm

This is the drawing from the spec sheet:

View attachment 3849543 View attachment 3849544

If you reverse the red and black wires in this picture you will achieve what the manufacture shows as correct.
Click to expand...
The black wire is the load they connect to pin 1. The red wire goes from pin 2 to what you want to control. It will become load once the ssr is energized.
 
qballizhere

qballizhere

Well-Known Member
The drawing from the data sheet is correct in my pic you need to turn the drawing 180 and it will line up Load is on the left and in the data sheet its on the right.
 
qballizhere

qballizhere

Well-Known Member
The ssr are better than relays if you are controlling power for hours at a time. The relay contacts can weld themselves closed and then you have to replace the relay. One your switching mechanically with contact points and one your switching electrically
 
wietefras

wietefras

Well-Known Member
qballizhere said:
The ssr are better than relays if you are controlling power for hours at a time. The relay contacts can weld themselves closed and then you have to replace the relay. One your switching mechanically with contact points and one your switching electrically
Click to expand...
Welding of the contacts happens during the arc while switching on or off the relay and typically only when overloading it as happens during the inrush. It does not depend on the time running. I'd say for longer running EMR relays are actually "better" since they don't get so hot, but in practice both will do fine.

SSR's are just as susceptible to inrush. Probably even more so if you go over the limit. You need to check the datasheet for the SSR to see what inrush current it can deal with. Even a single HLG-185H-C produces a 55A inrush.
 
randydj

randydj

Well-Known Member
wietefras said:
Welding of the contacts happens during the arc while switching on or off the relay and typically only when overloading it as happens during the inrush. It does not depend on the time running. I'd say for longer running EMR relays are actually "better" since they don't get so hot, but in practice both will do fine.

SSR's are just as susceptible to inrush. Probably even more so if you go over the limit. You need to check the datasheet for the SSR to see what inrush current it can deal with. Even a single HLG-185H-C produces a 55A inrush.
Click to expand...
wietefras:
The SSR-25da will handle 275A max durated (word on spec. sheet) current so with two HLG-185-c drivers I am ok there but now you have me thinking about my circuit breaker. It is on a dedicated 20A circuit but I do not know what type of breaker it is unless I go pull it out and look it up. I think I'll just wait to see if it trips. Have you had any problems with regular thermal breakers and running a couple of drivers?
 
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