DIY with Quantum Boards

T

taita

Member
robincnn said:
@ChaosHunter
I will update the product listing with condensed info from this thread. Including my beautiful artwork and wire diagrams I made after :eyesmoke:

Regarding pre-drilled heatsinks for these boards :weed:
Processed at CINCINNATI HUB - USA
Estimated Delivery:Monday, December 12, 2016By End of Day
Click to expand...

Hi are these heat sinks for passive or active cooling if running each panel at 75 W
 
T

taita

Member
if a larger heat sink is used will it be more effective running the same config at higher ambients?
for example if two sinks were layered for each board.
sorry if this is an ignorant thermodynamics question.
robincnn said:
75 watts at board with heatsink should be fine at upto 30C ambient.
Non anodized sample was 55C at 20-25C ambient. final version is anodized so it will run cooler.
Heatsink Weight:0.58kg
Click to expand...
 
robincnn

robincnn

Well-Known Member
taita said:
if a larger heat sink is used will it be more effective running the same config at higher ambients?
Click to expand...
This test was done with no air movement.
Inside the tent the temps drops due to air flow.
How high is ambient temperature you plan to use this board in
 
T

taita

Member
im in a tropical environment and wasnt planning on using a tent but a corner of an open room.
maybe its overkill but i wanted something that can handle worst case scenario of upto 40C. would stacking two of your heatsinks above a single board make any difference?
thank you.
robincnn said:
This test was done with no air movement.
Inside the tent the temps drops due to air flow.
How high is ambient temperature you plan to use this board in
Click to expand...
 
T

taita

Member
or say attaching a SST X Heatsink on top of the
Predrilled Heatsink for QB304 Quantum Boards.

robincnn said:
This test was done with no air movement.
Inside the tent the temps drops due to air flow.
How high is ambient temperature you plan to use this board in
Click to expand...
 
Mellodrama

Mellodrama

Well-Known Member
taita, you seem to have some ideas in your head about heatsinks that aren't reality-based. Layering another heatsink on top of the first isn't going to help at all. The big factors are:

1) the heatsink's contact with the surface making heat (the more direct contact, the better the transfer of heat),
2) the heatsink's ability to move heat (metallurgy, shape, fins or pins, mass, etc.)
3) airflow across the fins or pins.

Strapping another sink onto the first one cripples the first sink's ability to dump heat to the air. Plus you really have to think about how much heat is going to move thru the first sink and into the second one. The answer is: not very much.

If you're in a hot environment, I'd say the first thing to look at is powering your LED devices very conservatively. It's gonna cost more to get started, but more devices running at lower amperages is probably the most effective overall strategy. That and lots of air movement.
 
ChaosHunter

ChaosHunter

Well-Known Member
there is no thermal adhesive or paste needed for the heatsinks as the boards are alumininum backed. These boards run very cool at lower watts even without a heatsink, just for testing, you do want to add a heatsink regardless.

I'm going to try and run passively first and if need be add a couple of 120 fans to the top of my 2 board build.
 
robincnn

robincnn

Well-Known Member
Shugglet said:
This seems strange to me, air wont get trapped between them because its aluminum or soemthing?
Click to expand...
Strips and boards have a much bigger surface area. Not like cobs
Vero 29 has about 1024mm2
This QB304 board has 50,000mm2
50 times as much surface area is a lot moreo_O

I reached out to Samsung last year regarding their F series LED Strips. In most cases TIM not needed.

Just wipe heatsink clean with iso alcohol and screws the board/strip. Board/strip will bend and there will be air gaps. But it does not create any hotspots and there is plenty of surface.
@Stephenj37826 can share some thermal images.:clap:

I have glued samaung strips with silicone and they have worked fine for over a year now. They were driven at low power and I have not tested these boards with silicone glue.

Application of TIM is not needed for most scenarios. I have measured heastink temps and Boards temps. They were almost the same so there is minimal thermal resistance between board and heatsink.
If you measure and the board is running more hot than the heatsink then TIM would help.
You can apply if you would like. Would take a lot of TIM and would be hard to clean if you decide to take board out. If you are worried, give me your application scenario and I will let you know if TIM is needed.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Top