What LEDs for 3x3 tent?

Yodaweed

Yodaweed

Well-Known Member
MeGaKiLlErMaN said:
Much cheaper actually. And this is a 4x4


Citizen.1212C4.3000K 16 COBS @1.05A ON 1.813 PROFILE HEATSINK
16 SQ.FT. CANOPY 94% EFFICIENT DRIVER @15 CENTS PER KWH
Total power watts at the wall: 625.53
Cobs power watts: 588
Total voltage forward: 560
Total lumens: 91140
Total PAR watts assuming 10% loss: 249
Total PPF: 1210.14
PPFD based on canopy area: 814.11
PAR watts per sq.ft.: 15.56
Cob efficiency: 47.09%
Power watts per sq.ft.: 36.75
Voltage forward per cob: 35.0
Lumens per watt: 155.0
Heatsink riser thickness / number of fins / fin's length: 0.3in/6/0.95in
Heatsink area per inch: 100.94 cm^2
Total heat watts: 311
umol/s/W / CRI: 4.86 / 80CRI
Heatsink length passive cooling @120cm^2/heatwatt: 370 inches
Heatsink length active cooling @40cm^2/heatwatt: 123 inches
COB cost dollar per PAR watt: $0.81
Electric cost @12/12 in 30 days: $34.28
Electric cost @18/6 in 30 days: $51.17
Cost per cob: $12.55
Heatsink cost per inch cut: $0.66
Total cobs cost: $201
Total heatsink passive cooling cost: $244
Total heatsink active cooling cost: $81

Or

Citizen.1212C4.3000K 16 COBS @0.7A ON 1.813 PROFILE HEATSINK
16 SQ.FT. CANOPY 94% EFFICIENT DRIVER @15 CENTS PER KWH
Total power watts at the wall: 404.26
Cobs power watts: 380
Total voltage forward: 542
Total lumens: 62320
Total PAR watts assuming 10% loss: 171
Total PPF: 831.06
PPFD based on canopy area: 559.09
PAR watts per sq.ft.: 10.69
Cob efficiency: 50.07%
Power watts per sq.ft.: 23.75
Voltage forward per cob: 33.9
Lumens per watt: 164.0
Heatsink riser thickness / number of fins / fin's length: 0.3in/6/0.95in
Heatsink area per inch: 100.94 cm^2
Total heat watts: 190
umol/s/W / CRI: 4.86 / 80CRI
Heatsink length passive cooling @120cm^2/heatwatt: 226 inches
Heatsink length active cooling @40cm^2/heatwatt: 75 inches
COB cost dollar per PAR watt: $1.17
Electric cost @12/12 in 30 days: $22.33
Electric cost @18/6 in 30 days: $33.25
Cost per cob: $12.55
Heatsink cost per inch cut: $0.66
Total cobs cost: $201
Total heatsink passive cooling cost: $149
Total heatsink active cooling cost: $49

Or even harder if you really want to


Citizen.1212C4.3000K 16 COBS @1.4A ON 1.813 PROFILE HEATSINK
16 SQ.FT. CANOPY 94% EFFICIENT DRIVER @15 CENTS PER KWH
Total power watts at the wall: 860.64
Cobs power watts: 809
Total voltage forward: 578
Total lumens: 118114
Total PAR watts assuming 10% loss: 324
Total PPF: 1574.64
PPFD based on canopy area: 1059.33
PAR watts per sq.ft.: 20.25
Cob efficiency: 44.51%
Power watts per sq.ft.: 50.56
Voltage forward per cob: 36.1
Lumens per watt: 146.0
Heatsink riser thickness / number of fins / fin's length: 0.3in/6/0.95in
Heatsink area per inch: 100.94 cm^2
Total heat watts: 449
umol/s/W / CRI: 4.86 / 80CRI
Heatsink length passive cooling @120cm^2/heatwatt: 534 inches
Heatsink length active cooling @40cm^2/heatwatt: 178 inches
COB cost dollar per PAR watt: $0.62
Electric cost @12/12 in 30 days: $46.97
Electric cost @18/6 in 30 days: $70.21
Cost per cob: $12.55
Heatsink cost per inch cut: $0.66
Total cobs cost: $201
Total heatsink passive cooling cost: $352
Total heatsink active cooling cost: $117
Click to expand...
You forgot the cost of your drivers, aluminum housing, screws, wires, testing equipment , etc.
 
MeGaKiLlErMaN

MeGaKiLlErMaN

Well-Known Member
Yodaweed said:
You forgot the cost of your drivers, aluminum housing, screws, wires, testing equipment , etc.
Click to expand...
lol at the screws...Drivers $55 x 4 $220 heat sinks, $200 (seems a bit steep, active cool 5.88), $201 for the COBs total $821 for 814PPFD... better than a DE HPS, and covers a 4x4 unlike a CMH.
 
MeGaKiLlErMaN

MeGaKiLlErMaN

Well-Known Member
Evil-Mobo said:
Yup, and he has to build it and still has no IR or UV :)
Click to expand...
But IR only puts plants to sleep faster (730nm) only takes a few LEDs to do the same thing, and UV is really only in the UVB t5 bulb in a usable quantity and only needed in flower. so both issues are fixed for under $200 if thats something that really is important to you.
 
Corso312

Corso312

Well-Known Member
Let's see how much ya like those CMH lights after you have to buy new bulbs for 90$ a piece and replace that ballast after 20k hours.


I personally wouldn't work in the garden under one, its a pain in the dick to kill the lights and work on canopy management or water-feeding with the lights off.
 
Evil-Mobo

Evil-Mobo

Well-Known Member
MeGaKiLlErMaN said:
But IR only puts plants to sleep faster (730nm) only takes a few LEDs to do the same thing, and UV is really only in the UVB t5 bulb in a usable quantity and only needed in flower. so both issues are fixed for under $200 if thats something that really is important to you.
Click to expand...
So another $200 on top of the DIY cost to replicate a cmh spectrum. Makes sense.............
 
MeGaKiLlErMaN

MeGaKiLlErMaN

Well-Known Member
Snucks said:
What would be the best config for a 3x3
Click to expand...
well its the cheapest to get off the ground, and you could always expand but I would suggest looking it up on the calculator yourself to give you time to mix and match.



Citizen.1212C4.3000K 10 COBS @1.05A ON 5.88 PROFILE HEATSINK
9 SQ.FT. CANOPY 94% EFFICIENT DRIVER @15 CENTS PER KWH
Total power watts at the wall: 391.49
Cobs power watts: 368
Total voltage forward: 350
Total lumens: 57040
Total PAR watts assuming 10% loss: 156
Total PPF: 758.16
PPFD based on canopy area: 906.75
PAR watts per sq.ft.: 17.33
Cob efficiency: 47.09%
Power watts per sq.ft.: 40.89
Voltage forward per cob: 35.0
Lumens per watt: 155.0
Heatsink riser thickness / number of fins / fin's length: 0.27in/14/1.0in
Heatsink area per inch: 260.01 cm^2
Total heat watts: 195
umol/s/W / CRI: 4.86 / 80CRI
Heatsink length passive cooling @120cm^2/heatwatt: 90 inches
Heatsink length active cooling @40cm^2/heatwatt: 30 inches
COB cost dollar per PAR watt: $0.8
Electric cost @12/12 in 30 days: $21.64
Electric cost @18/6 in 30 days: $32.21
Cost per cob: $12.55
Heatsink cost per inch cut: $1.74
Total cobs cost: $126
Total heatsink passive cooling cost: $157
Total heatsink active cooling cost: $52
 
Snucks

Snucks

Member
MeGaKiLlErMaN said:
well its the cheapest to get off the ground, and you could always expand but I would suggest looking it up on the calculator yourself to give you time to mix and match.



Citizen.1212C4.3000K 10 COBS @1.05A ON 5.88 PROFILE HEATSINK
9 SQ.FT. CANOPY 94% EFFICIENT DRIVER @15 CENTS PER KWH
Total power watts at the wall: 391.49
Cobs power watts: 368
Total voltage forward: 350
Total lumens: 57040
Total PAR watts assuming 10% loss: 156
Total PPF: 758.16
PPFD based on canopy area: 906.75
PAR watts per sq.ft.: 17.33
Cob efficiency: 47.09%
Power watts per sq.ft.: 40.89
Voltage forward per cob: 35.0
Lumens per watt: 155.0
Heatsink riser thickness / number of fins / fin's length: 0.27in/14/1.0in
Heatsink area per inch: 260.01 cm^2
Total heat watts: 195
umol/s/W / CRI: 4.86 / 80CRI
Heatsink length passive cooling @120cm^2/heatwatt: 90 inches
Heatsink length active cooling @40cm^2/heatwatt: 30 inches
COB cost dollar per PAR watt: $0.8
Electric cost @12/12 in 30 days: $21.64
Electric cost @18/6 in 30 days: $32.21
Cost per cob: $12.55
Heatsink cost per inch cut: $1.74
Total cobs cost: $126
Total heatsink passive cooling cost: $157
Total heatsink active cooling cost: $52
Click to expand...
What calculator do you speak of, also I see you put the citizen 1212. What about the 1818? I honestly was only thinking about using 6 to 8 cobs on two different bars?
 
Hybridway

Hybridway

Well-Known Member
MeGaKiLlErMaN said:
But IR only puts plants to sleep faster (730nm) only takes a few LEDs to do the same thing, and UV is really only in the UVB t5 bulb in a usable quantity and only needed in flower. so both issues are fixed for under $200 if thats something that really is important to you.
Click to expand...
Not true
 
MeGaKiLlErMaN

MeGaKiLlErMaN

Well-Known Member
Hybridway said:
Not true
Click to expand...
Proof? Thats what comes up upon researching. Far red produces the Emerson effect and nothing more. UVA/B is the main reason you can push a higher quality product as THC is the byproduct of a plant protecting it self from the sun. It occurs naturally, but can be pushed.
 
MeGaKiLlErMaN

MeGaKiLlErMaN

Well-Known Member
Snucks said:
What calculator do you speak of, also I see you put the citizen 1212. What about the 1818? I honestly was only thinking about using 6 to 8 cobs on two different bars?
Click to expand...
Either one is fine higher end will require less but over all a higher amperage. Look up DIY LED Calculator on the led forums search area.
 
Hybridway

Hybridway

Well-Known Member
MeGaKiLlErMaN said:
Proof? Thats what comes up upon researching. Far red produces the Emerson effect and nothing more. UVA/B is the main reason you can push a higher quality product as THC is the byproduct of a plant protecting it self from the sun. It occurs naturally, but can be pushed.
Click to expand...
All you need to do is grow under hps/mh to understand.
I understand what you read. I have too, but it's only half the story.
 
MeGaKiLlErMaN

MeGaKiLlErMaN

Well-Known Member
Hybridway said:
All you need to do is grow under hps/mh to understand.
I understand what you read. I have too, but it's only half the story.
Click to expand...
I have and have not seen anything remarkable. The IR didn't do anything really noteworthy. And a 1000W DE HPS only puts out .3% UVB/A combined which is 3W, or around 1.5W of each. In any environment that's not enough to make a difference. To make a difference you need to add pure UVB/uva T5 bulbs in a separate fixture.

MH finishers have a good amount of UV but still not really that great, especially the DE bulbs that lack in spectrum from the single ended ones.

Numbers I'm quoting are sphere results with references.

http://www.cree.com/~/media/Files/Cree/LED-Components-and-Modules/XLamp/XLamp-Reference-Designs/HorticultureReferenceDesign.pdf
 
Hybridway

Hybridway

Well-Known Member
MeGaKiLlErMaN said:
I have and have not seen anything remarkable. The IR didn't do anything really noteworthy. And a 1000W DE HPS only puts out .3% UVB/A combined which is 3W, or around 1.5W of each. In any environment that's not enough to make a difference. To make a difference you need to add pure UVB/uva T5 bulbs in a separate fixture.

MH finishers have a good amount of UV but still not really that great, especially the DE bulbs that lack in spectrum from the single ended ones.

Numbers I'm quoting are sphere results with references.

http://www.cree.com/~/media/Files/Cree/LED-Components-and-Modules/XLamp/XLamp-Reference-Designs/HorticultureReferenceDesign.pdf
Click to expand...
So you've grown under your hps & your LEDs n haven't seen the difference?
If so, have you grown under them more then once, enough to see or notice.
 
MeGaKiLlErMaN

MeGaKiLlErMaN

Well-Known Member
Hybridway said:
So you've grown under your hps & your LEDs n haven't seen the difference?
If so, have you grown under them more then once, enough to see or notice.
Click to expand...
While growing with DE HPS My plants were not as frosty as the ones that I have seen with people growing with COBs, My plant under COBs are growing fast (because there more usable light) and look healthier/ more lush. The side by side Im running currently have about 2 more weeks of Veg then Im flipping to 12/12. We will see soon enough but based off of other results I know what Im going to get.
 
Hybridway

Hybridway

Well-Known Member
MeGaKiLlErMaN said:
While growing with DE HPS My plants were not as frosty as the ones that I have seen with people growing with COBs, My plant under COBs are growing fast (because there more usable light) and look healthier/ more lush. The side by side Im running currently have about 2 more weeks of Veg then Im flipping to 12/12. We will see soon enough but based off of other results I know what Im going to get.
Click to expand...
Side by side hu? You gonna do a Thread?
 
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