My little watering & anchoring invention...

slow_grow

Well-Known Member
I'll start by just saying I have nearly zero patience when it comes to watering. In other areas I seem to have far more. For instance I could manicure for hours but for some reason I just hate sitting there watering things slowly to ensure good and even saturation. Water too fast and I'd get tons of runoff and no real sense of how much the medium could hold until after the fact which could potentially be too late. Water too slow and it becomes more of a chore.

So I decided to set out and design a drain container that closely mimics the distribution of water in nature that would also serve as a training platform for LST, mainlining or any technique where multiple, easily accessible anchor points could be had. In rocking my own mainline for this grow I found tomato cages to be somewhat awkward and too limiting. I was about to start clipping anchor points to the edges of my pots when it dawned on me to simply combine the two problems into the watering solution I was already mulling over.

Here is how I'm currently watering to ensure a good soak without requiring the plant to suck what it needs from the bottom run-off drain pan. Basically a bunch of smaller containers with holes punched in the bottom of them. This works very well however it's cumbersome and hideous.

the-problem.jpg

Here is the current iteration of the drain container's design:

drainer.jpg

I'm still testing the drainage pattern which is why you don't see any drain holes in the model. The smaller holes on the outer lip serve as training anchor points. One need only tie a knot or form a ball in their training wire and run it up from under a hole to the plant, nice and clean. The large anchor points are for staking the container down. The idea is this would remain fixed in the pot the entire grow once the plant's lowest node was taller than 2". This initial size would accommodate both 3G and 5G pots from a diameter standpoint and hold just over 90 ounces of water.

Current flow testing shows that 80 .4mm holes in a concentric pattern focusing primarily on the outer perimeter will yield a drain time of 20 minutes. The idea being to simply fill it up and walk away. Measurement hash marks will be added in increments of 10 (oz) so I know exactly how much water is going in.

The container would be white to reflect light and since it would remain in place the entire grow it would also be a great way to keep tabs on any bugs since they'd pop against the white fairly well. It would also serve as a means to keep the upper portions of the soil from totally drying out. The container has stubby little legs to ensure that drainage hole contact with the soil is avoided. They are stackable for easy storage and each stake point is reinforced with ribs.

There are few more tweaks that need to be made before I have a 3D printed prototype generated to test with.

What do you guys think? Any suggestions?
 

ttystikk

Well-Known Member
I'll start by just saying I have nearly zero patience when it comes to watering. In other areas I seem to have far more. For instance I could manicure for hours but for some reason I just hate sitting there watering things slowly to ensure good and even saturation. Water too fast and I'd get tons of runoff and no real sense of how much the medium could hold until after the fact which could potentially be too late. Water too slow and it becomes more of a chore.

So I decided to set out and design a drain container that closely mimics the distribution of water in nature that would also serve as a training platform for LST, mainlining or any technique where multiple, easily accessible anchor points could be had. In rocking my own mainline for this grow I found tomato cages to be somewhat awkward and too limiting. I was about to start clipping anchor points to the edges of my pots when it dawned on me to simply combine the two problems into the watering solution I was already mulling over.

Here is how I'm currently watering to ensure a good soak without requiring the plant to suck what it needs from the bottom run-off drain pan. Basically a bunch of smaller containers with holes punched in the bottom of them. This works very well however it's cumbersome and hideous.

View attachment 3854082

Here is the current iteration of the drain container's design:

View attachment 3854083

I'm still testing the drainage pattern which is why you don't see any drain holes in the model. The smaller holes on the outer lip serve as training anchor points. One need only tie a knot or form a ball in their training wire and run it up from under a hole to the plant, nice and clean. The large anchor points are for staking the container down. The idea is this would remain fixed in the pot the entire grow once the plant's lowest node was taller than 2". This initial size would accommodate both 3G and 5G pots from a diameter standpoint and hold just over 90 ounces of water.

Current flow testing shows that 80 .4mm holes in a concentric pattern focusing primarily on the outer perimeter will yield a drain time of 20 minutes. The idea being to simply fill it up and walk away. Measurement hash marks will be added in increments of 10 (oz) so I know exactly how much water is going in.

The container would be white to reflect light and since it would remain in place the entire grow it would also be a great way to keep tabs on any bugs since they'd pop against the white fairly well. It would also serve as a means to keep the upper portions of the soil from totally drying out. The container has stubby little legs to ensure that drainage hole contact with the soil is avoided. They are stackable for easy storage and each stake point is reinforced with ribs.

There are few more tweaks that need to be made before I have a 3D printed prototype generated to test with.

What do you guys think? Any suggestions?
I like this.
 

greasemonkeymann

Well-Known Member
I like this.
kinda reminds me of when growing outdoor in high temps, get 2 liter soda bottles (of mountain dew of course)
and have tiny holes in the lid, filled with water, and then bury the whole head of it in the soil
sorta like a drip setup, we always glued a bunch of sticks and debris to hide them, but this was back in the day.. grew some big ole fattoes up in the trees, my friend was a tree-cutter (this cute lil blonde girl, that chick was BURLY)
but she'd crawl her nice looking ass up in the trees and i'd spot her..
(in reality i was just gazing at her finely shaped derriere)
 

slow_grow

Well-Known Member
I think the concept is great. My only suggestion would be to make the feet a little longer.
Thanks for the feedback man, you thinking they are so short they might sink in? Maybe what I'll do is increase them to .5" high (currently .25") and add two more (currently there are 4 total) so there is more of a sure-footed base.
 

slow_grow

Well-Known Member
kinda reminds me of when growing outdoor in high temps, get 2 liter soda bottles (of mountain dew of course)
and have tiny holes in the lid, filled with water, and then bury the whole head of it in the soil
sorta like a drip setup, we always glued a bunch of sticks and debris to hide them, but this was back in the day.. grew some big ole fattoes up in the trees, my friend was a tree-cutter (this cute lil blonde girl, that chick was BURLY)
but she'd crawl her nice looking ass up in the trees and i'd spot her..
(in reality i was just gazing at her finely shaped derriere)
Funny you mention this, I started saving my 32oz soda bottles to basically do the same thing by just leaning them against the first ring on the tomato cage. Ditched the idea after the first try though because they were too cumbersome to refill and replace. I could see 2 liters buried doing very well outdoors.
 

MickFoster

Well-Known Member
Thanks for the feedback man, you thinking they are so short they might sink in? Maybe what I'll do is increase them to .5" high (currently .25") and add two more (currently there are 4 total) so there is more of a sure-footed base.
Or maybe metal posts of sorts that will sink in the soil so it can be slightly elevated. Similar to what's on a hydro halo drip ring. Your invention actually will be better than a drip ring because you don't have to pump the water. Do you need any investors? Haha
 

slow_grow

Well-Known Member
Or maybe metal posts of sorts that will sink in the soil so it can be slightly elevated. Similar to what's on a hydro halo drip ring. Your invention actually will be better than a drip ring because you don't have to pump the water. Do you need any investors? Haha
Ahhh I see what you're saying, I think something like that would indeed come in the from of an evolution on a custom stake design. Maybe there are platform stakes that can snap onto the feet. After the printed prototype I intend on getting costs for injection moulding. Shit man, if people dig it maybe I'll throw it up on kickstarter or something. A lot of gardeners top and LST tomatoes, peppers etc. so it could have a broader audience and scaling down for 1G and up for 10+G wouldn't be hard.

Once I get the prototype printed I'm going to try tossing in a compost tea bag or maybe a stocking with a little azomite dust in it that would basically distribute its load a little at a time with each watering.
 

slow_grow

Well-Known Member
Of course there is the issue of differing pot sizes... I wonder if it could be resizeable... Or just make a few different sized.. 8" 10" 12" etc..
I created a matrix of 3 and 5G hard and soft pots to determine an initial size that would cover either and came to the conclusion that right around 9.5" in diameter is the sweet spot for both but if it were to actually go somewhere, I think defined increments like you said would be best.
 

Corso312

Well-Known Member
I'll start by just saying I have nearly zero patience when it comes to watering. In other areas I seem to have far more. For instance I could manicure for hours but for some reason I just hate sitting there watering things slowly to ensure good and even saturation. Water too fast and I'd get tons of runoff and no real sense of how much the medium could hold until after the fact which could potentially be too late. Water too slow and it becomes more of a chore.

So I decided to set out and design a drain container that closely mimics the distribution of water in nature that would also serve as a training platform for LST, mainlining or any technique where multiple, easily accessible anchor points could be had. In rocking my own mainline for this grow I found tomato cages to be somewhat awkward and too limiting. I was about to start clipping anchor points to the edges of my pots when it dawned on me to simply combine the two problems into the watering solution I was already mulling over.

Here is how I'm currently watering to ensure a good soak without requiring the plant to suck what it needs from the bottom run-off drain pan. Basically a bunch of smaller containers with holes punched in the bottom of them. This works very well however it's cumbersome and hideous.

View attachment 3854082

Here is the current iteration of the drain container's design:

View attachment 3854083

I'm still testing the drainage pattern which is why you don't see any drain holes in the model. The smaller holes on the outer lip serve as training anchor points. One need only tie a knot or form a ball in their training wire and run it up from under a hole to the plant, nice and clean. The large anchor points are for staking the container down. The idea is this would remain fixed in the pot the entire grow once the plant's lowest node was taller than 2". This initial size would accommodate both 3G and 5G pots from a diameter standpoint and hold just over 90 ounces of water.

Current flow testing shows that 80 .4mm holes in a concentric pattern focusing primarily on the outer perimeter will yield a drain time of 20 minutes. The idea being to simply fill it up and walk away. Measurement hash marks will be added in increments of 10 (oz) so I know exactly how much water is going in.

The container would be white to reflect light and since it would remain in place the entire grow it would also be a great way to keep tabs on any bugs since they'd pop against the white fairly well. It would also serve as a means to keep the upper portions of the soil from totally drying out. The container has stubby little legs to ensure that drainage hole contact with the soil is avoided. They are stackable for easy storage and each stake point is reinforced with ribs.

There are few more tweaks that need to be made before I have a 3D printed prototype generated to test with.

What do you guys think? Any suggestions?


Pretty slick, I like it
 

Flowki

Well-Known Member
I also thought of this but damn, you went the extra mile with the little holes to tie down. The put off is finding something the right size and depth to use as intended or else you'd have to make it from scratch X how ever many pots you have. It is a good idea though and hope to find something reasonable for it soon.

A logistically easier way around it for now (space provided) is to use a bucket pinned down to a stool. With 4 small holes bore out the under side of bucket/stool you can connect 4 aquatic pipes flush to bottom of the bucket with some basic pluming. Feed those pipes down to the top of the 4 pots and fix in place near the stems. Basically a gravity driven drip like in the hospital scenes. You could connect the end of the pipes onto some kind of sprincle setup to get a more even distribution of the water around the pot. But, if you simply raise the soil up a bit near the stem and taper it off down toward the outer edge of the pot gravity again wins and the water runs off all around the top surface so long as the flow is not too quick to flood the sides (small pipes basically).
 
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slow_grow

Well-Known Member
I also thought of this but damn, you went the extra mile with the little holes to tie down. The put off is finding something the right size and depth to use as intended or else you'd have to make it from scratch X how ever many pots you have. It is a good idea though and hope to find something reasonable for it soon.
Thanks for the feedback man, what do you mean regarding size & depth? This first one being printed is for 3G and 5G pots. The only thing that would be required is any old 3G or 5G pot which in my research seems to be by far the most popular size for soil grows. It would be cool to have a 1G version or as @sunny747 mentioned, an array spanning 8" 10" 12" and on but I'm not understanding the make it from scratch comment.

A logistically easier way around it for now (space provided) is to use a bucket pinned down to a stool. With 4 small holes bore out the under side of bucket/stool you can connect 4 aquatic pipes flush to bottom of the bucket with some basic pluming. Feed those pipes down to the top of the pots and fix in place near the stems. Basically a gravity driven drip like in the hospital scenes. You could connect the end of the pipes onto some kind of sprincle setup to get a more even distribution of the water around the pot. But, if you simply raise the soil up a bit near the stem and taper it off down toward the outer edge of the pot gravity again wins and the water runs off all around the top surface so long as the flow is not too quick to flood the sides (small pipes basically).
The above already exists and is readily available. I nearly went down this path but worrying about a leak, clog or even nute variations needed on a plant by plant basis which would be cumbersome to manage with a drip system would bother me. I also like to move my plants around and dealing with tubes would be frustrating know what I mean?
 

Flowki

Well-Known Member
Thanks for the feedback man, what do you mean regarding size & depth? This first one being printed is for 3G and 5G pots. The only thing that would be required is any old 3G or 5G pot which in my research seems to be by far the most popular size for soil grows. It would be cool to have a 1G version or as @sunny747 mentioned, an array spanning 8" 10" 12" and on but I'm not understanding the make it from scratch comment.
I mean that the depth of the dish would be hard to get right. If it's too deep then you would have to sacrifice soil to get it down in their. If it's too high instead, then you'd possibly lose height on the plant due to needing to transplant it higher up to keep the lower branching/leaves clear thus needing it to be smaller top end if going for a certain size for space, hope you follow. If you are then forced into using too shallow a dish you may have to refill each individual dish 3 to 4 times to get in the volume, so a big problem if you have many pots.


The above already exists and is readily available. I nearly went down this path but worrying about a leak, clog or even nute variations needed on a plant by plant basis which would be cumbersome to manage with a drip system would bother me. I also like to move my plants around and dealing with tubes would be frustrating know what I mean?
You will only be dealing with 2' to 4' max tubing that is only fixed to the soil with some form of peg, easily removed should you need to get at a container. I don't personally think moving pots around once in flower is a good idea so once this setup is done one of the main reasons to regularly move pots (irrigation access) is removed. Even with ought you can use a simple pvc pipe with a funnel attached to hand water the back plants and not have to disturb them.

You mix up neut in a separate big container and that should all be clean with no bits to create any clogging at all. Once mixed you can fill a transport bucket and then with that fill up the gravity container. As you can dictate the size of the gravity container and flow of the liquid due to tube size you will only have to fill it up one single time to feed 4 plants. That is unless your plants are in huge pots so you'd need to do 2 transport pots due to carry weight.

Under the bucket/stool you can place a catch bucket if you are paranoid about leaks so if one does occur (almost certainly at that 4 single connection points to the bucket) it will drip into the catch bucket. Their is very little pressure in this system though unlike an electric pump forcing it even if blocked so if you seal the connection point's properly you really have more chance of leaks coming from your roof rather than the gravity container.
 
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