Powdery mildew day 38 of flower

[sourdieselyumyum]

I and starting to see pm spots on upper leaves. I was wondering if I spray green cure along with possibly and spray like serenade would it hold me over till harvest. I like to harvest around day 67 to 77. I was also looking into sulphur burner but I've heard it can affect taste this late into flower. Any ideas what will work. I used green cleaner and it was shit

 

[ISK]

This is what I've used in the past....did a great job

Ingredients:

• 1 gallon of water
• 1 tablespoon of baking soda
• 1 tablespoon of vegetable oil
• 1 tablespoon of dish washing liquid (Dawn)

Mix the ingredients together and add them to a spray bottle.

Spray your plants weekly, preferably on overcast days (or lights off) to prevent it from burning the foliage.

 

[chemphlegm]

hurry up now, and lower your humidity while increasing your air flow while decreasing your nutrients too
sorry this happened to you, good luck on the save

 

[Dr. Who]

hurry up now, and lower your humidity while increasing your air flow while decreasing your nutrients too
sorry this happened to you, good luck on the save

What the fuck is lowering your nutrients supposed to do?

I and starting to see pm spots on upper leaves. I was wondering if I spray green cure along with possibly and spray like serenade would it hold me over till harvest. I like to harvest around day 67 to 77. I was also looking into sulphur burner but I've heard it can affect taste this late into flower. Any ideas what will work. I used green cleaner and it was shit

Serenade will last like 10-14 days.

I like ISK's suggestion, but I would make it 1TBL of the Green Cure (less hard on the plant)

I use 18 hr brewed AACT and that works like the serenade and with out the serenade dirty gym sock smell!
I also use 1 tsp of green cure in home brewed Horsetail grass tea. You can use this right up until harvest if your careful. The plant actually likes this stuff...

 

[chemphlegm]

op's more than half way through his flowering cycle likely. EVERY quality nutrient program I've used and seen
came with directions, which clearly show a decrease of nutrient during this time, right down to plain water when its ready to harvest.
I thought everyone reads the directions. this might explain why so much weed at the dispensaries is so harsh, nasty burning too?

so, now that we agree on that.....a high nitrogen content in this stage of flower, coupled with high rh/low air flow, odd temps will invite mold to fourish. thats what the fuck lowering nutrients has to do with proper finishing, mold, and general common sense growing.

 

[sourdieselyumyum]

So I should be good with green cure and serenade and no sulphur burn?

 

[Jimmy Sparkle]

So I should be good with green cure and serenade and no sulphur burn?

Dont sulphur burn that late in flower or you will taste sulphur and it WILL be harsh and nasty tasting and basically non smokeable. Thats the tip on sulphur my guy.

 

[Porky101]

op's more than half way through his flowering cycle likely. EVERY quality nutrient program I've used and seen
came with directions, which clearly show a decrease of nutrient during this time, right down to plain water when its ready to harvest.
I thought everyone reads the directions. this might explain why so much weed at the dispensaries is so harsh, nasty burning too?

so, now that we agree on that.....a high nitrogen content in this stage of flower, coupled with high rh/low air flow, odd temps will invite mold to fourish. thats what the fuck lowering nutrients has to do with proper finishing, mold, and general common sense growing.

Not true.

Decreasing N Will not lower or increase your chance of getting mold.

Mold is caused by spores in the air that is present naturally.

Stale warm humid air is great for mold. Mold will grow almost anywhere on living or non living things (inside walls, bricks, on plants, in your lungs).

high RH is not really a problem for mold as long as the air is fresh.


Also, if you want a smooth smoke, it all has to do with curing and the strain and drying of the end product. Flushing makes no difference and is a myth.

 

[HydroRed]

I wouldn't sulfer burn 38 days into flower. As mentioned, use some Green Cure @ 1 tblsp per gallon of water and spray your plants from top to bottom topsides and undersides of leaves etc. It will likely brown your pistols on your buds, but it will grow in just fine and you wont even know it was sprayed once you harvest. This should get you through til harvest. This is merely a bandaid method to get you to the finish line. You will need to figure out why you are getting pm in your grow room in the first place whether it be from outside air coming into the room unfiltered, pets in the grow room,handling other infected plants then handling other plants, spreading the mildew spores, introducing dirty clones into your grow room etc. You can use Green Cure up to 1 hr before harvest with no ill effects, and it can be used in all organic grows. Its pretty good stuff.

So I should be good with green cure and serenade and no sulphur burn?

 

[CaliSmokes]

op's more than half way through his flowering cycle likely. EVERY quality nutrient program I've used and seen
came with directions, which clearly show a decrease of nutrient during this time, right down to plain water when its ready to harvest.
I thought everyone reads the directions. this might explain why so much weed at the dispensaries is so harsh, nasty burning too?

so, now that we agree on that.....a high nitrogen content in this stage of flower, coupled with high rh/low air flow, odd temps will invite mold to fourish. thats what the fuck lowering nutrients has to do with proper finishing, mold, and general common sense growing.

Halfway through flowering doesn't mean decrease nutes lol.

 

[backtracker]

What the fuck is lowering your nutrients supposed to do?




Serenade will last like 10-14 days.

I like ISK's suggestion, but I would make it 1TBL of the Green Cure (less hard on the plant)

I use 18 hr brewed AACT and that works like the serenade and with out the serenade dirty gym sock smell!
I also use 1 tsp of green cure in home brewed Horsetail grass tea. You can use this right up until harvest if your careful. The plant actually likes this stuff...

too much nitrogen makes the plants more susceptible to pm.

 

[chemphlegm]

Halfway through flowering doesn't mean decrease nutes lol.

read the fucking directions nitwit, they clearly state to lower the ppm's as the the flowers are finishing.
https://www.google.com/search?q=too+much+nitrogen+can+cause+powedery+mildew&ie=utf-8&oe=utf-8

high nitrogen in flower can invite pm. High humidity lesson;
https://www.google.com/search?q=too+much+nitrogen+can+cause+powedery+mildew&ie=utf-8&oe=utf-8#q=high+rh+causes+powdery+mildew

romper room is out!

 

[Dr. Who]

op's more than half way through his flowering cycle likely. EVERY quality nutrient program I've used and seen
came with directions, which clearly show a decrease of nutrient during this time, right down to plain water when its ready to harvest.
I thought everyone reads the directions. this might explain why so much weed at the dispensaries is so harsh, nasty burning too?

so, now that we agree on that.....a high nitrogen content in this stage of flower, coupled with high rh/low air flow, odd temps will invite mold to fourish. thats what the fuck lowering nutrients has to do with proper finishing, mold, and general common sense growing.

So what directions are you using? No nutrient maker lowers their nutrient levels in bloom. In fact MOST of them raise the P&K, and usually the P by stupid amounts!

If it's harsh and nasty burning (I'll bet most of the "burning" part is in your head). That would be from improper dry and curing !

Flushing is a myth and the fade to no nutrients......doesn't work that way in plants! Your removing or reducing nutrients at the plants most critical time. Those last 2 weeks are when the plant puts on about 60% of it's final yield weight! Why would you retard your yields?

Like I said - NO nutrient company reduces nutrient levels at 4 weeks! If you like that - just do what you like but, don't come on here and spew Bull Shit information to people trying to actually learn something!

READ THIS

I got asked about this in a PM by a member after seeing the disaster another thread became. He asked where to find books and papers on "flushing" and said he might try the "fade".

Here's my answer to him......I felt it needs to be seen,,,,,,again!

Your looking for post grad work. You would do better to search papers......The thing is, NOTHING in agriculture gets 'flushed" and that leads to little to no research in the area. You see, the thing is, the whole "idea" of "flushing is nonsense! Plants don't work that way! They do not take up nutrients or salts as most of you think of them! They do not "store" them in the sense you think of them! Not only that, but the nutritional "stores" in a plant are not in buds or budding or flowers! NO amount of "flushing" will "exchange" plant "stored" nutrition back "out" of the plant! Scientifically impossible by the way most of you guys understand......Ok, that's my word on "flushing". (No one listens to this in threads if they don't want to hear it or accept it.)

Now then, you propose the "FADE TO FINISH" method. Great idea in theory but, and this IS a BIG BUT! Remember when I said above that "the nutritional "stores" in a plant are not in buds or budding or flowers!" ? This shoots that theory in the ass right away. You see the main amount of stored nutrition is in either the roots and the rest in leaves and some in small amounts in transit in the phloam (the sap that actually moves the nutrients around the plant)......

Now when you "starve a plant" it will draw from it's self by actually breaking down the needed parts of it's self to do an "emergency" attempt to reproduce! (This can happen in certain plants even in veg! A kind of last ditch effort to continue the species.)

With that in mind you take the fact that the plant is not "moving" nutrients "out" of buds,but into them to speed growth and as fast as it can - "reproduce". This single minded process the plant now puts it's self on causes the plant to stress it's self. This self induced stress can, in many cases if done long enough, lead the plant to go bisexual, and produce "banana's" in a last ditch effort to reproduce and "carry on the line" and produce seeds...

Basically put, In reality you are moving nutrients that you're "attempting" to get rid of,,right to where your trying to remove them from! You are also stressing the plant in the way for "Herming" to actually happen easier!

I and many others that have tried to convey this actual plant science, are called everything you can think of and those 'impossible of understanding these facts", fight so hard against us that many of us have simply chosen to avoid the issue or don't fight to hard.

Anyway, there you are in as short and sweet and as simple/understandable as I can...

The thing is you have to understand Botany and Horticulture (and there are LOTS of subsections to those that are involved here) to truly put together the pieces of the puzzle to get your head wrapped around the idea that flushing and the "fade" don't work for what they are intended or alleged to actually do!

There you go Mods, nice, polite and to the point. (Sorry about the other thread Sunni)

There you go, Now have at it!
I'm stepping back to watch the circus.

Read this too!

https://www.rollitup.org/t/the-truth-about-flushing.409622/

Nutrient makers might tell you to go no nutrients for the last week to 2 weeks......Why? Flushing will not remove nutrients from plants and flushing agents are nothing more then a way for nutrient makers to make money off from fears and lies!

LEARN TO DO A PROPER DRY AND CURE!

Reduce nutrients at 4 weeks? Just when you think you've heard it all.......good fucking grief......

 

[Dr. Who]

too much nitrogen makes the plants more susceptible to pm.

WRONG! What your referring to is that the plants will grow more foliage and reduce air flow! The reduced air flow in and around the core of the plant CAN encourage PM.

The use of Nitrogen in and of it's self...DOES NOT CAUSE THE PLANT TO BE MORE SUSCEPTIBLE TO PM!

read the fucking directions nitwit, they clearly state to lower the ppm's as the the flowers are finishing.
https://www.google.com/search?q=too+much+nitrogen+can+cause+powedery+mildew&ie=utf-8&oe=utf-8

high nitrogen in flower can invite pm. High humidity lesson;
https://www.google.com/search?q=too+much+nitrogen+can+cause+powedery+mildew&ie=utf-8&oe=utf-8#q=high+rh+causes+powdery+mildew

romper room is out!

Your second link is better and yet you stoop to name calling and sarcasm! It's beyond obvious that you know far less then you put out!
Your written word outlines a novice skill set at the very best!

Now get out of the principles office and start acting your age......unless of course, you do, still watch romper room...

 

[chemphlegm]

you are wrong doc, but thats ok too.

just like in nature, resources are reduced as the season comes to finish.
we dont grow tobacco, which is fed to the day of harvest. this is where you get the "curing" notion from. a period of time when your high nitrogen is degraded over time for a smoother flavor. follow directions on EVERY bottled nutrient program and you will not need a long cure, and youd be surprised too, what an organic experience might taste like in your mouth.

 

[Dr. Who]

you are wrong doc, but thats ok too.

just like in nature, resources are reduced as the season comes to finish.
we dont grow tobacco, which is fed to the day of harvest. this is where you get the "curing" notion from. a period of time when your high nitrogen is degraded over time for a smoother flavor. follow directions on EVERY bottled nutrient program and you will not need a long cure, and youd be surprised too, what an organic experience might taste like in your mouth.

I'm only wrong in your mind!
Your actual lack of plant and science knowledge is mind boggling!

Sad part is you don't even READ whole posts!

BTW, if you treated your plant like tobacco in growing AND in curing.....You would do far better!



100% water only organic run! How do I not feed it till harvest? Look at those nice deep green leaves - no clawing - some tips just beginning to show a bit of "push".

So now then phlemmy... Tell me. Just how am I supposed to reduce my N? (Much less anything else)....???????

Dried at 55% RH till stems cracked and not bend or snap in half. Jarred with Boveda 62's after 2 weeks of daily burping.....Cured for 7 weeks and tested again.....smooth even draw. perfect ash. lovely taste with a great underlying sourness ! Joint burns straight and true! Nice initial buzz and as 15-20 min go by,,,,,you notice that it has a great creep factor that brings you to a simply marvelous intense stone!



If you feed synthetics, and no matter your method. You should have your plants looking like this a week from harvest! This, is called "DIALED IN"...

Or follow a hack's suggestions and never get near the plants potential!

 

[chemphlegm]

you are just awesome! I looked for the "just awesome " button but couldnt find it, nonetheless, you are awesome!

I grow organic style too, salt hater actually

you can google yourself, every scholarly article speaking of nitrogen and end flower says so. your salt ferts actually lower or cut out completely nitrogen in the flower phase, I dont understand why you dont already know that, its on every bottle I've read this morning, every feeding chart shows the curve, the declining nitrogen during flower, the declining ferts actually towards end flower, but whatever, you are still awesome. unruffle your feathers man, I dont threaten your existence, marketing efforts, or ego.

 

[Gary Goodson]

Son of a... This is why I stay out of the growing section. So many newbs want to act like they know it all. It gets old and frustrating

 

[chemphlegm]

The only time you tolerate signs of nitrogen deficiency is when you’re more than halfway through flowering phase. During those closing weeks, your marijuana plants are focusing on floral production so they sucks stored nitrogen out of leaves rather than doing the work of taking nitrogen in through the roots.


That’s why you don’t need to add extra nitrogen (beyond the amount found in a properly-configured flowering base nutrients product) to flowering crops after they’ve passed the midway point of flowering cycle: excess nitrogen during flowering negatively affects bud development, taste, and aroma.=http://bigbudsmag.com/marijuana-nutrients-insider-secrets-the-nitrogen-story/

But cannabis plants need relatively low levels of Nitrogen in the second half of the flowering/budding stage. While your plants still need N (nitrogen) during flowering, too much N at this stage will prevent your plants from forming buds properly, resulting in lower yields, less potency and possibly inferior bud=http://www.growweedeasy.com/nitrogen-toxicity-cannabis

Marijuana requires a higher nitrogen ratio during the vegging and early flowering stage (Part 1 or Part A) as it is the main component for growth. During flowering (Part 2 or Part B) we really want a lower nitrogen and higher phosphorous NPK fertilizer ratio.=http://howtogrowmarijuana.com/npk-fertilizer-ratio/

When does your plant need nutrients?

A marijuana plant needs different levels of marijuana nutrients depending on its stage in the life cycle. Whether your plant is in vegetative growth or flowering will dictate which nutrients, and how much of them your plant requires.


Vegetative Growth
During vegetative growth you will want a nutrient solution that is high in nitrogen and low in phosphorus as during early phases of vegetative growth stem and leaf development are key to developing a strong and healthy plant.

Flowering
During flowering you will want a high phosphorus and low nitrogen nutrient mix. A phosphorous rich mix help your buds swell, maximising the amount you can yield off each plant=http://grow-marijuana.com/nutrients''

I cannto find one instance of increasing nitrogen at end flower except by commercial cropper to boost vegetative growth hence weight, not potency, not health, not taste, just money.


frikken liars they all are

 

[Jimmy Sparkle]

Son of a... This is why I stay out of the growing section. So many newbs want to act like they know it all. It gets old and frustrating

It is a shame...... However I do feel that arguing with himself will get pretty old if you know what Im saying ... Think of the kid in the room thats being excluded, he will eventually become tired and give up.