DIY with Quantum Boards

ttystikk

Well-Known Member
I've designed a light that can move on rails using these boards to lay the groundwork. The idea is, I can build the light thin enough that it can move through an adjustable height slot with rails going through it. Not sure how I'm gonna light proof the slot, but theoretically, I could use these boards to help double my flowering area while buying the same amount of lighting. I can use the light in one room, then as the light timer flips, instead of the light turning off, an automatic gate or door opener (I can get one of these for cheap) pulls the light along rails (like the ones your screen door rides on) through the slot to the next room over. I'm gonna build the slot using two projector screens so the slot between the projector screens can raise and lower depending on plant height. The rails on which the light runs will go through this slot and raise and lower with it. The slot will be light proofed, but I'm not sure with what. The light will moved with a an electric door opener or something like it, which will be controlled by a separate timer.

Each room is going to be the same size, and will receive 12 hours of light. Instead of having 2 lights, both of them off for 12 hours a day, I will have one thin light that moves between rooms every 12 hours. I can grow staggered in this way with a separate veg room of the same size. I would start new clones in veg every 30 days, harvest one room every 30 days, and start plants flowering. This would be like my current setup, except instead of lighting my current 8x4 flowering space I would technically only need enough light for a 4x4.

Really cool stuff, the only thing left to decide is whether this extension is gonna be an 8x4 SCROG or a vertical grow. I'm tempted to go with vert to start, but I might need some guidance. @ttystikk mind if I pm you a couple questions?

I'm gonna be getting one light to cover a 4x4 at about 1100 average ppfd if I'm going scrog. If I'm running vertical, I'll be getting two lights to each cover two 4x7 spaces.
This idea is sexy but at least for me it didn't survive closer inspection; the reason to do this basically boils down to cost of lighting. That cost is falling, to the point where whatever system of light mover you choose will end up eating up most of whatever you might have saved.

In addition, you're now faced with significant reliability issues; if your mover fails, you've potentially screwed yourself in TWO bloom spaces! So now it's more complex, not less costly, and the potential points of failure have multiplied. Worse, the most you'll ever save is some up front cost, vs ongoing maintenance for your new railroad. It saves you nothing over time.

So while the thought of my vertical rack of COB LED modules gliding through a slot in the wall every 12 hours was mightily tempting, the simplicity and relative robustness of just duplicating the lighting for two rooms won out.
 

ttystikk

Well-Known Member
I thought of doing something similar but it seemed like more of a pain than its worth. If you do it please make a journal I'd love to see it. you could save money on drivers if you bought enough panels for both sides but only one set of drivers light each side for half the day.
This is basically the flip box idea for LED chips and drivers. Not less complex, more potential points of failure, no savings over time.
 

bassman999

Well-Known Member
Good idea i will consider using a sharpie to write down the cold board voltage at test current. But at what current......The test current i use is 65*8= 520ma

yes diode will do a voltage drop and then 2 boards from different batch will work better together. Great Idea. I will test it out, i think i have some 1007 diodes.
Average DIY'ers may not be able to play with diodes and it may be easier for them to just use boards in series.
Sharing for others
View attachment 3856418
Is that a Zener diode?
 

Ryante55

Well-Known Member
This is basically the flip box idea for LED chips and drivers. Not less complex, more potential points of failure, no savings over time.
I've never heard of a flip box but if he has limited power and limited start up funds saving 300 or more on drivers could allow him to buy more boards to increase efficiency which would produce more bud
 

ttystikk

Well-Known Member
I looked up flip box that's pretty cool I'd probably just use a plain old timer haha
Not exactly; the flip box directs power to either one of two light fixtures via the use of high current capacity relays. It flips when current is applied to its trigger cord.

The problems with them are that they only handle a limited set of timing options, the box usually ISN'T CHEAPER than just buying another ballast and finally if it fails you're potentially screwed in two rooms and at best have light for only one.

You only save on cost once, minus the costs of additional wiring to do it and there's no ongoing savings.

It just doesn't seem like a good tradeoff to me considering the limited benefits vs risks involved.
 

LarsVegasNirvana

Well-Known Member
I looked it up, and you lose ~8% if you add plexiglass covering (like a lens) because you lose 4% off reflection on the first surface and 4% reflection off the inside of the second surface. That's enough to convince me not to include the plexiglass sheet that came with my chinese light. I figured it would help me keep the light clean from foliar spraying, but I can just clean it with alcohol periodically instead.
 

Stephenj37826

Well-Known Member
I looked it up, and you lose ~8% if you add plexiglass covering (like a lens) because you lose 4% off reflection on the first surface and 4% reflection off the inside of the second surface. That's enough to convince me not to include the plexiglass sheet that came with my chinese light. I figured it would help me keep the light clean from foliar spraying, but I can just clean it with alcohol periodically instead.
This is true unless anti refractive coating is used. The industry is leaning in two directions. If using reflectors the above mentioned is used. If using lenses then more of these are being designed as an all in one solution (IP sealed lens).
 

ChaosHunter

Well-Known Member
I just realized the fan I have in my veg room uses more wattage than my light! I was wondering if anyone had a suggestion for a low-wattage fan? These boards don't make much heat so it won't take much.
I'm in the same boat and its a good problem to have. Right now my intake is set at low and I have a 120 usb computer fan moving a little air around. I may have to go and get a small heater and hook it up to my Johnson A419 controller. I'm not sure if I want it inside my tent or the closet my tent is in ?
 

robincnn

Well-Known Member
4 boards have arrived. Thanks @robincnn . I'm not familiar with the male connector that pushes in the vcc +- sockets on the boards. Link or part number please if possible. Nice looking boards. I believe it will help my hotspots.
These Molex connectors are rated 9Amps and max 300V
http://www.molex.com/webdocs/datasheets/pdf/en-us/1041880110_PCB_RECEPTACLES.pdf

Bare wire just pushes in and locks. To unlock push down the tab to release.
You are right. Thanks for sharing.
 
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