Opinion poll on nutrient strength.

NanoGadget

NanoGadget

Well-Known Member
Hey all. I'm in the process of starting a new grow. Single plant in a GH WaterFarm in a 3x3x6 tent. Will be topping and scrog will be used. CLW Solar Storm 440 for lighting (currently in rapid rooter under t5). Made some basic mods to the WaterFarm ala SCOTTYBALLS Pineapple Express run. Will be using the Lucas Method with the GH flora bloom and Flora micro, with some ammendments (calmag for sure, probably hydrogaurd as my water temps are a couple degrees higher than I'd like, and probably silica blast). Using the Lucas method because this is my first hydro run and I want to keep it simple.
On to my question... I always hear people talking about cutting the feed levels that GH provides in half as it tends to be too hot for most plants when followed. in addition I see a lot of folks talking about feeding young plants quarter strength . So I guess my question is this.. is half strength a good baseline to start with for adult plants, when people say quarter strength for young plants are they suggesting a quarter of what GH recommends or a quarter of the half strength that many people suggest (thus actually making it 1/8th strength)?

Or, if it's easier, ya'll can feel free to post what your ml/gallon recommendations using flora in the Lucas method are for young and adult plants.

Thanks a bunch!
 
NanoGadget

NanoGadget

Well-Known Member
disbeverk said:
Do you have an EC meter?

.5 EC for babies, .7-1 EC for full veg, 1.2+ EC as needed in heavy flower.

Got to dial it back even more when you're without medium.
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I have a meter. I believe it's default display is PPM, I'll have to see if it will display EC. Who knows which conversion method they're using. it's a Hanna
 
disbeverk

disbeverk

Well-Known Member
Hanna meters are x500.

Keep the ratios the mfg's feeding chart says, but bring it up to a target ppm rather than ml/g.

I put my conservative doses of micros and supplements in, then add base until I get to my target EC. Once you do it a few times you'll know the ml/g you'll need, and how much base to add when the plants are asking for more.
 
NanoGadget

NanoGadget

Well-Known Member
Wait, is that right? 600ppm for flowering seems really low.... but I'm a soil guy and a total noob to hydro so...
 
disbeverk

disbeverk

Well-Known Member
NanoGadget said:
Jonny on the spot! So EC .5 would be 250 ppm?
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Correct.

NanoGadget said:
Wait, is that right? 600ppm for flowering seems really low.... but I'm a soil guy and a total noob to hydro so...
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Those numbers are without considering a specific conversion factor. When your roots are in constant contact with the solution, you have to run considerable less than even an inert medium like coco.

250-350ppm for rooted clones, 4-600 ppm for vigorous veg, 7-900 ppm in flower. 1000+ if they're asking for it, or you really want to push them. Always better to correct from a deficiency than a toxicity.

Always make adjustments based off what your plants are telling you, not what a feeding chart says.
 
NanoGadget

NanoGadget

Well-Known Member
disbeverk said:
Correct.


Those numbers are without considering a specific conversion factor. When your roots are in constant contact with the solution, you have to run considerable less than even an inert medium like coco.

250-350ppm for rooted clones, 4-600 ppm for vigorous veg, 7-900 ppm in flower. 1000+ if they're asking for it, or you really want to push them.

Always make adjustments based off what your plants are telling you, not what a feeding chart says.
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Thanks a lot for the feedback! Was definitely planning on observing and adjusting, and I've heard that the plants react to said changes a lot faster in hydro than in soil (which makes total sense), I'm just looking for good advice on a baseline to start from. Planning on moving seedlings to the WaterFarm when I see the second or third set of true leaves. That sound like a good time to start them with the 250-350 feeding? Or do you start nutes earlier than that? I'm used to soil that'll feed em most of the way through veg.. lol
 
Airwalker16

Airwalker16

Well-Known Member
I've used this for a few yrs now. Never had any problems . I highly reccomend you use it if you're in a recirculating setup like a waterfarm using GH 3-part. I find it very simple to follow. You do need to use R/O water though.Recirculating-Nutrient-Schedule-custom-sm.jpg
 
Airwalker16

Airwalker16

Well-Known Member
NanoGadget said:
That looks pretty easy to follow, and I like the fact that it is specifically tailored for a recirculating system, but I'm uncertain how exactly I'd convert the quantities listed to employ the Lucas formula .
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You wouldnt... You'd use the gro part too. lucas works, but the full line is much better.
 
The_Enthusiast

The_Enthusiast

Active Member
I mix my nutrients (from lets say pure "elements") and i can say i can push EC a lot. In bloom phase from day 1 to day 63 or 70 (depending is it 70 day crop or 77 day) i have EC 1.85 - 2.15

But the beauty is there is no toxicity because none of the elements is over upper limit.

Before i was using HESI, GE, Platinium nutrients... and they all aren't in sync with basic hydroponic concepts (low and high feed per element)
 
NanoGadget

NanoGadget

Well-Known Member
Airwalker16 said:
You wouldnt... You'd use the gro part too. lucas works, but the full line is much better.
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I know the theory behind lucas is that the micro has everything you need to make the grow unnecessary (as long as you use way more micro than called for), so in your opinion , what make using all 3 parts superior to the Lucas formula? I'm always eager to learn and I haven't started nutes yet, so if there is a good reason it is better I'd love to hear it!
 
NanoGadget

NanoGadget

Well-Known Member
The_Enthusiast said:
I mix my nutrients (from lets say pure "elements") and i can say i can push EC a lot. In bloom phase from day 1 to day 63 or 70 (depending is it 70 day crop or 77 day) i have EC 1.85 - 2.15

But the beauty is there is no toxicity because none of the elements is over upper limit.

Before i was using HESI, GE, Platinium nutrients... and they all aren't in sync with basic hydroponic concepts (low and high feed per element)
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So basically you're saying that when you mix your own you can push the plants harder because you're not getting too much of a particular compound from trying to get enough of another? interesting. This is my first rodeo with hydro so I think this run I'm going to try and make it as easy in myself as possible, but it is definitely something I'll consider for the next... thanks!
 
blackforest

blackforest

Well-Known Member
NanoGadget said:
I know the theory behind lucas is that the micro has everything you need to make the grow unnecessary (as long as you use way more micro than called for), so in your opinion , what make using all 3 parts superior to the Lucas formula? I'm always eager to learn and I haven't started nutes yet, so if there is a good reason it is better I'd love to hear it!
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I've been running lucas for quite awhile now in a rdwc system. Literally just finished a cycle, cut them today. But anyway, I always run about 400 ppm, so .8ec. That's just what the seem to like in my system. If you use ro water, use some calmag which has some nitrogen in there too. With lucas, it's just a 1-2 ratio of micro to bloom. Every week I fill up 28g of ro water, add 100ml micro and 200ml bloom, about 50 ml calmag and 150ml pool shock treatment. PH is always 5.8 by itself when mixed so I never have to add ph up/down which is nice. GH grow (green bottle) is a bit heavy on nitrogen and can cause claw pretty easily. I use a lucas formula for my soil plants too, but I'll make the ppm closer to 900 because they are in dirt. After awhile the plants tell you what they want and what they like and it becomes obvious. Good luck man!
 
NanoGadget

NanoGadget

Well-Known Member
blackforest said:
I've been running lucas for quite awhile now in a rdwc system. Literally just finished a cycle, cut them today. But anyway, I always run about 400 ppm, so .8ec. That's just what the seem to like in my system. If you use ro water, use some calmag which has some nitrogen in there too. With lucas, it's just a 1-2 ratio of micro to bloom. Every week I fill up 28g of ro water, add 100ml micro and 200ml bloom, about 50 ml calmag and 150ml pool shock treatment. PH is always 5.8 by itself when mixed so I never have to add ph up/down which is nice. GH grow (green bottle) is a bit heavy on nitrogen and can cause claw pretty easily. I use a lucas formula for my soil plants too, but I'll make the ppm closer to 900 because they are in dirt. After awhile the plants tell you what they want and what they like and it becomes obvious. Good luck man!
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You don't ever run above 400?
 
Igotthe6

Igotthe6

Well-Known Member
Flora-bloom is really close to lucas. I use it from grow to flower with great result. Just not very fond of it's mother company.
 
NanoGadget

NanoGadget

Well-Known Member
While I have some activity on this thread I may as well ask a couple questions... I've got my seedling going (day 2) and I was wondering what you all use as an indicator for when to transfer to my bucket and when to start giving it nutrients. I've seen a lot of people say that the root development is the best indicator of when to transplant. I'd like to kick veg off fast, so how early can I start to feed?
 
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