Cob help desk

goodro wilson

Well-Known Member
soldering COBs is not the boogeyman, check this out from Bridgelux
My only caveat on this is use a larger bevelled tip ie 4mm, we only use large tips for soldering COBs as it gets better heat into the immediate area, soldering wire to COBs should only take 1-2 seconds, once your wire and COB pads are pretinned so hard to make a mistake
Cheers
Mark
I did think it was the boogeyman lol but I'm sure I can handle it after watching a few videos today

Thanks for the help fellas
 

JavaCo

Well-Known Member
The COBs that come with that kit are Gen 6's and also 2700k's. So you could do better getting some gen 7 veros. One reviewer complained about the heat with the light turned all the way up. Vero 29 SE will be out soon, they are solderless. Just strip your wires and push them in to the newly designed veros. Only difference is they are a bit thicker then the old style veros.

From the data Sheet
" Vero SE poke-in connectivity simplifies manufacturing and assembly processes by eliminating the need to solder. Secondary connector and holder components are not required, allowing for rapid integration of arrays into fixtures and an efficient field replaceable solution. "
 

Tim Fox

Well-Known Member
my last DIY light build had ZERO soldering, i used cob holders that just push in the wire, , and wagos that also just push in the wire, it was so simple
 

sixstring2112

Well-Known Member
The COBs that come with that kit are Gen 6's and also 2700k's. So you could do better getting some gen 7 veros. One reviewer complained about the heat with the light turned all the way up. Vero 29 SE will be out soon, they are solderless. Just strip your wires and push them in to the newly designed veros. Only difference is they are a bit thicker then the old style veros.

From the data Sheet
" Vero SE poke-in connectivity simplifies manufacturing and assembly processes by eliminating the need to solder. Secondary connector and holder components are not required, allowing for rapid integration of arrays into fixtures and an efficient field replaceable solution. "
Does anyone know what kind of voltage rating the new vero se will have? Im talking about the connection rating not the chip itself
 

JavaCo

Well-Known Member
Does anyone know what kind of voltage rating the new vero se will have? Im talking about the connection rating not the chip itself
They are pretty vague about it in the data sheets. They dont even give a min and max wire gauge that can be used. In the fine print i found this " This product has been designed and manufactured per IEC 62031:2014. This product has passed dielectric withstand voltage testing at 1160 V. The working voltage designated for the insulation is 80V d.c. The maximum allowable voltage across the array must be determined in the end product application."

Here is the Data sheet http://www.bridgelux.com/sites/default/files/resource_media/Bridgelux DS123 Vero SE 29 Gen 7 Array Data Sheet 20161205 Rev B.pdf
 

goodro wilson

Well-Known Member
Great info those se chips sound awesome
I assumed they weren't gen7 bc of the price
Still like that rapidled kit a little more than timbers bc it comes with fan/enclosure and nice driver
When the new vero29s come out that would be an easy upgrade
I really wanted to buy the 200w citizen kit with linear frame from timber but it's a few inches too long for my cab
I'm honestly not too concerned with efficiency bc I had a 600 crammed in the cab it should cost less to run and cool some cobs
I almost wanna just buy some artic 11s and tape some cheap cobs on and use cheap drivers and then spend some real money on replacing my two 600 hps later on
I am so indecisive
my cab is 40x20x40" and I even thought about getting 2 Mars 300s for the space
Just thinking out loud here
 

Tim Fox

Well-Known Member
Great info those se chips sound awesome
I assumed they weren't gen7 bc of the price
Still like that rapidled kit a little more than timbers bc it comes with fan/enclosure and nice driver
When the new vero29s come out that would be an easy upgrade
I really wanted to buy the 200w citizen kit with linear frame from timber but it's a few inches too long for my cab
I'm honestly not too concerned with efficiency bc I had a 600 crammed in the cab it should cost less to run and cool some cobs
I almost wanna just buy some artic 11s and tape some cheap cobs on and use cheap drivers and then spend some real money on replacing my two 600 hps later on
I am so indecisive
my cab is 40x20x40" and I even thought about getting 2 Mars 300s for the space
Just thinking out loud here
Artic 11 cost about the same as passive and with artic 11 you will need to purchase a 12 volt power supply to spin the fans
 

DesertHydro

Well-Known Member
the only thing i dont like about the kit you posted is that the spacing is only 5-6" apart and pushing that much wattage to each they should be more spread out to get proper coverage i would think. if they offered that kit with individual pin heat sinks so you could spread them out it would be ideal. other than that it seems cool for the price. with no optics you could raise it up a couple feet and still get a good spread. sorry, not trying to confuse an already limitless decision lol
 

goodro wilson

Well-Known Member
the only thing i dont like about the kit you posted is that the spacing is only 5-6" apart and pushing that much wattage to each they should be more spread out to get proper coverage i would think. if they offered that kit with individual pin heat sinks so you could spread them out it would be ideal. other than that it seems cool for the price. with no optics you could raise it up a couple feet and still get a good spread. sorry, not trying to confuse an already limitless decision lol
Yeah I was a little worried about the spread
My cab is 40 inches wide and the light is 20 inches so all three cobs would be right in the middle
thanks for giving me something to think about I need to make my mind up I will order a light this week
Hopefully I'll pick one I'l be happy with without going broke
 

DesertHydro

Well-Known Member
Yeah I was a little worried about the spread
My cab is 40 inches wide and the light is 20 inches so all three cobs would be right in the middle
thanks for giving me something to think about I need to make my mind up I will order a light this week
Hopefully I'll pick one I'l be happy with without going broke
write him and see if he could swap out that heatsink for three single 140mm for a few extra bucks or if he has something like that. worst he can say is no.
 
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