DIY with Quantum Boards

BuddyColas

BuddyColas

Well-Known Member
muleface said:
so using a 240H-c2100, if you ran them in parallel or serial would there be a difference in output?
Click to expand...
OK, grasshopper. Your mission, should you decide to accept it, is go to Meawell site...then look up HLG-240H-C series...look at the max voltage of the HLG-240H-C2100 power supply.
 
Budzbuddha

Budzbuddha

Well-Known Member
DIY QB BUILD - ( Beginning stage )
As this is one of my favorite threads ... I wanted to share my next build using these great boards.

This will be a " HYBRID " of two techs - Quantum boards and COB . I posted a mockup a few days back but decided today to begin construction as i wait on the main components.

My build is for a 3x3x6 space .... And am not looking necessary for heavy watts like a 1000w HID equiv. Light . I am more interested in efficiency. With the MARS HYDRO conversion that i have going now is pulling a low 50ish plus watts @ wall ( 100v at panel - 550ma current ) which is kind of a sweet spot for this build. It has proven to be a very efficient and reliable light source.

Now , i begin Phase 2 . This build is designed with " upscaling " in mind ....
Meaning by a simple swap of drivers or adding QB boards . Driver outputs will be fitted with Ac/Dc Male to female connectors , for fast plugin and removal of drivers.

image.jpg

This build will use a HLG 185h 1400b ( dimmable driver ) ( 2 or 4 panel )
It will include 2 citizen 1212 cobs ( 3500k ) running between 30w soft .
Using LPC 60 1400 for cobs .
Again even this setup with cobs will be swapable ( driver ) with connector.

Here is the main driver framing fitted with drivers : it is also sitting on peg footing so panels will never touch workbench or surface while doing maintenance.

image.jpg

VERSION 1 ( 2 panel build ) :

This version will have bracing at center for panel support. Bracing will be across top and bottom of panel only to control unnecessary weight. Hanger support areas are at inner panel corner points.

image.jpg

This would push around 170watts ( QB Boards ) and 60 watt cobs for : 230 watts
Although driver CAN do 200 watts ...

VERSION 2 : ( 4 board plus cobs )
This is the more than likely the build i will do. By already building the center framing i can go either way with build. For even more expansion ... Heatsinks i ordered for cobs will fit other cob brands ( multiple mounting holes ). So you can design something different without much effort. Mounting of panels will be at 3 points off of main driver rails. Hanger points will be as above.

image.jpg

For a balls to the wall build - i only have change driver to HLG 320 and add some fans to boards - easy to power with a 12v 1A charger from any electronics. Fans could be something like Cool Master megaflow 200mm or whatever.

Enjoy the New Year and Smoke some green ! bongsmilie
 
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ttystikk

ttystikk

Well-Known Member
Budzbuddha said:
DIY QB BUILD - ( Beginning stage )
As this is one of my favorite threads ... I wanted to share my next build using these great boards.

This will be a " HYBRID " of two techs - Quantum boards and COB . I posted a mockup a few days back but decided today to begin construction as i wait on the main components.

My build is for a 3x3x6 space .... And am not looking necessary for heavy watts like a 100w HID equiv. Light . I am more interested in efficiency. With the MARS HYDRO conversion that i have going now is pulling a low 50ish plus watts @ wall ( 100v at panel - 550ma current ) which is kind of a sweet spot for this build. It has proven to be a very efficient and reliable light source.

Now , i begin Phase 2 . This build is designed with " upscaling " in mind ....
Meaning by a simple swap of drivers or adding QB boards . Driver outputs will be fitted with Ac/Dc Male to female connectors , for fast plugin and removal of drivers.

View attachment 3864498

This build will use a HLG 185h 1400b ( dimmable driver ) ( 2 or 4 panel )
It will include 2 citizen 1212 cobs ( 3500k ) running between 30w soft .
Again even this setup with cobs will be swapable ( driver ) with connector.

Here is the main driver framing fitted with drivers : it is also sitting on peg footing so panels will never touch workbench or surface while doing maintenance.

View attachment 3864499

VERSION 1 ( 2 panel build ) :

This version will have bracing at center for panel support. Bracing will be across top and bottom of panel only to control unnecessary weight. Hanger support areas are at inner panel corner points.

View attachment 3864504

This would push around 170watts ( QB Boards ) and 60 watt cobs for : 230 watts
Although driver CAN do 200 watts ...

VERSION 2 : ( 4 board plus cobs )
This is the more than likely the build i will do. By already building the center framing i can go either way with build. For even more expansion ... Heatsinks i ordered for cobs will fit other cob brands ( multiple mounting holes ). So you can design something different without much effort. Mounting of panels will be at 3 points off of main driver rails. Hanger points will be as above.

View attachment 3864506

For a balls to the wall build - i only have change driver to HLG 320 and add some fans to boards - easy to power with a 12v 1A charger from any electronics. Fans could be something like Cool Master megaflow 200mm or whatever.

Enjoy the New Year and Smoke some green ! bongsmilie
Click to expand...
My 4 panel fixtures are run by a Meanwell HLG-320H-C2100B, wired parallel in two pairs of two in series. 320W from 4 boards. Fuck yes, it's bright!
 
pop22

pop22

Well-Known Member
you can't run the QBs and 2 cobs off that driver. First, it maxes out at 200 watts. Second you can't mix 100V+ leds with 50V+ cobs. Either way you'll need 2 drivers
 
MMJ Dreaming 99

MMJ Dreaming 99

Well-Known Member
Budzbuddha said:
There are two drivers on frame.
HLG 185 1400b : QB PANELS
LPC 60 1400 : parallel cobs
Click to expand...
Bro - your planned lights especially version 2 is bad ass. Any plant update pic. If little has changed we can wait a few days. You appear to be the only one here with QB's in flower.
 
Budzbuddha

Budzbuddha

Well-Known Member
MMJ Dreaming 99 said:
Bro - your planned lights especially version 2 is bad ass. Any plant update pic. If little has changed we can wait a few days. You appear to be the only one here with QB's in flower.
Click to expand...
I ran those plants under that build at a time they were begininng to flower , it was a good point to start from. I originally had early veg plants with these two earlier but put them under another grow light so these two can go for it.

I will post once a week maybe to show what is going on.
 
muleface

muleface

Well-Known Member
here i am lit up.

note to self, when I flip on the power switch, I may be best served to not be looking directly at the light.

I only used drivers with built in dimmers, for my panels my driver has external dimmer wires. so if i wanted to run full power all the time could i just twist the dimmer wires together? or would that be bad?
 

Attachments

ttystikk

ttystikk

Well-Known Member
muleface said:
here i am lit up.

note to self, when I flip on the power switch, I may be best served to not be looking directly at the light.

I only used drivers with built in dimmers, for my panels my driver has external dimmer wires. so if i wanted to run full power all the time could i just twist the dimmer wires together? or would that be bad?
Click to expand...
DON'T LOOK INTO THE LIGHT! You learn real quick, don't you? LMAO

For Meanwell -B series drivers with external dimming leads, running them capped- separately- ensures maximum output.
 
Stephenj37826

Stephenj37826

Well-Known Member
muleface said:
here i am lit up.

note to self, when I flip on the power switch, I may be best served to not be looking directly at the light.

I only used drivers with built in dimmers, for my panels my driver has external dimmer wires. so if i wanted to run full power all the time could i just twist the dimmer wires together? or would that be bad?
Click to expand...

Cap them off. Don't twist them together!!!!!!
 
muleface

muleface

Well-Known Member
Stephenj37826 said:
Cap them off. Don't twist them together!!!!!!
Click to expand...
I capped them off. I figured i would do nothing until I asked someone.

I also learned something today, with my setup these boards don't work nearly as well when wired in parallel as they do in series.

Running 2 boards with a HLG-240-1050b

was i testing for scientific purposes...no...was i not following Robins simple instructions...yes....
 
Stephenj37826

Stephenj37826

Well-Known Member
muleface said:
I capped them off. I figured i would do nothing until I asked someone.

I also learned something today, with my setup these boards don't work nearly as well when wired in parallel as they do in series.

Running 2 boards with a HLG-240-1050b

was i testing for scientific purposes...no...was i not following Robins simple instructions...yes....
Click to expand...
It's not that the boards don't work well in parallel. That driver is constant current 1050 ma. It also has a maximum voltage of 238 volts. So running two boards is series is for instance 110v+110v= 220v. The driver will push 1050 ma no matter what voltage it gives in its normal operating range 119-238 volts(the drivers constant current range). That being said if you had purchased HLG 240 2100 instead you would have ran them in parallel because that driver has a maximum voltage of 119 but pushes 2X the current or 2100ma. In parallel the current (2100ma) is divided between each board. In series the voltage is not really divided but for all intensive purposes you can think of it that way. Hope this helps.
 
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