Quantums Overhead in Vertical Grow!

Jaybodankly

Well-Known Member
217c thought that was the temp you expose your room to get rid of spider mites.

A few more definitions:

The color rendering index (CRI), sometimes called color rendition index, is a quantitative measure of the ability of a light source to reproduce the colors of various objects faithfully in comparison with an ideal or natural light source. Light sources with a high CRI are desirable in color-critical applications such as photography and cinematography, and even horticulture. It is defined by the International Commission on Illumination as follows:

Color rendering: Effect of an illuminate on the color appearance of objects by conscious or subconscious comparison with their color appearance under a reference illuminate

Numerically, the highest possible CRI is 100, which is equivalent to natural sunlight. The higher the CRI, the better quality of light.

The Kelvin Color Temperature Scale is a measurement of discriminating colors for the human eye. Color temperatures over
5,000K are called cool colors (blue/white), while lower color temperatures (2,700–3,000 K) are called warm colors (yellow/white through red). This is a measurement for the human eye, but serves as a reference for helping consumers know which lamp to buy for which stage of growth.
 
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Coloradoclear

Well-Known Member
So I run a 30A breaker to pull about 20A.
All breakers are usable up to 80% of their rating, the 30 amp breaker is rated for 24 amps. Remember there will be an "in rush current" or peak current draw when you turn the lights on. This peak current draw should not be above 24 amps on that breaker.
 

ttystikk

Well-Known Member
All breakers are usable up to 80% of their rating, the 30 amp breaker is rated for 24 amps. Remember there will be an "in rush current" or peak current draw when you turn the lights on. This peak current draw should not be above 24 amps on that breaker.
I've had no problems with inrush current.

The PEAK current can be 100% of the breaker's rating. It's CONTINUOUS load that needs to be limited to 80% or less of rated capacity.
 

Coloradoclear

Well-Known Member
I've had no problems with inrush current.

The PEAK current can be 100% of the breaker's rating. It's CONTINUOUS load that needs to be limited to 80% or less of rated capacity.
That is a factual statement but, I would always error on the side of caution (as a licensed electrician). Wouldn't you hate to come back after being gone a day or two and find that your lights, pumps, etc. Have been off and you've lost everything from a breaker trip?
 

shadow_moose

Well-Known Member
That is a factual statement but, I would always error on the side of caution (as a licensed electrician). Wouldn't you hate to come back after being gone a day or two and find that your lights, pumps, etc. Have been off and you've lost everything from a breaker trip?
Running a breaker at 80% still isn't a good idea to be honest. I've had breakers fail with some regularity working in a machine shop. The constant load is what killed them. I err on the side of caution here, two 30 amp breakers for 4 kW is probably best.
 

ttystikk

Well-Known Member
That is a factual statement but, I would always error on the side of caution (as a licensed electrician). Wouldn't you hate to come back after being gone a day or two and find that your lights, pumps, etc. Have been off and you've lost everything from a breaker trip?
Running a breaker at 80% still isn't a good idea to be honest. I've had breakers fail with some regularity working in a machine shop. The constant load is what killed them. I err on the side of caution here, two 30 amp breakers for 4 kW is probably best.
Since my pumps and fans are all on separate circuits from my lighting, I've had exactly no trouble.

I see exactly no need for TWO x 30A breakers for 16.7A@240V. That's overkill.
 

whitebb2727

Well-Known Member
Root zone temps are one of the most important aspects of gardening. Temp gauge on top of pots lets the gardener know everything.
I kept getting some weird problems. I finally realized I cut the bottom out of my cab to give me more room and the pots were then sitting on the basement concrete floor. I was like duh finally. Put a piece of fiberglass insulated panel under them that was inch and half thick. They straightened right up.

Root temps are important. Its why I prefer to plant direct in the ground out doors.
 

MichiganMedGrower

Well-Known Member
I kept getting some weird problems. I finally realized I cut the bottom out of my cab to give me more room and the pots were then sitting on the basement concrete floor. I was like duh finally. Put a piece of fiberglass insulated panel under them that was inch and half thick. They straightened right up.

Root temps are important. Its why I prefer to plant direct in the ground out doors.
See it's ok for you to mention this. But my woman tried to tell @ttystikk the same thing because she saw that his plants are directly on a concrete floor and he reported her as spam. And her new account got locked out.

Funny thing is unless tyy can't figure out how to fertilize a known cut in 30 years of growing (which I think is also true) she is right about his pots being too cold on his basement floor.

Every plant he shows is yellowing and burning the same way.

It's ok though. He says "they like to be yellow"

But he just suggested over loading breakers again so it's just par for the course for a forum "expert". Read permanent noob.

and now you whitebb2727 and another excellent grower have both agreed with her comment. I am proud of her. She is learning. And I wonder if tyy put a simple stand under his pots if the constant yellowing would clear up.

Hmmmmmmmmmm.......shame false pride will always win with someone like that.

Your garden is always beautiful and productive whitebb. And your information solid. Maybe he will listen to you?
 

whitebb2727

Well-Known Member
See it's ok for you to mention this. But my woman tried to tell @ttystikk the same thing because she saw that his plants are directly on a concrete floor and he reported her as spam. And her new account got locked out.

Funny thing is unless tyy can't figure out how to fertilize a known cut in 30 years of growing (which I think is also true) she is right about his pots being too cold on his basement floor.

Every plant he shows is yellowing and burning the same way.

It's ok though. He says "they like to be yellow"

But he just suggested over loading breakers again so it's just par for the course for a forum "expert". Read permanent noob.

and now you whitebb2727 and another excellent grower have both agreed with her comment. I am proud of her. She is learning. And I wonder if tyy put a simple stand under his pots if the constant yellowing would clear up.

Hmmmmmmmmmm.......shame false pride will always win with someone like that.

Your garden is always beautiful and productive whitebb. And your information solid. Maybe he will listen to you?
I haven't posted pics. I should. Frankly I was embarrassed. Yes the cold floor was causing lock outs and ph looking problems.

I don't really want to further get away from the point of the thread but will answer.

I got away with getting off topic with tty because of mutual respect for each other.

It is what is.

Thank you for the compliments for my grow. I try but I make mistakes. We all do. We are human.
 

shadow_moose

Well-Known Member
I see exactly no need for TWO x 30A breakers for 16.7A@240V. That's overkill.
While I've only been growing for 3 years now and there's no doubt I can't argue with you matters specifically related to plants, I am a licensed electrician and I will tell you now that you are very much wrong about that being overkill, especially considering the price of breakers in comparison to the possible consequences of one burning out.
 

ttystikk

Well-Known Member
I haven't posted pics. I should. Frankly I was embarrassed. Yes the cold floor was causing lock outs and ph looking problems.

I don't really want to further get away from the point of the thread but will answer.

I got away with getting off topic with tty because of mutual respect for each other.

It is what is.

Thank you for the compliments for my grow. I try but I make mistakes. We all do. We are human.
I know a thing or two about being embarrassed to show your mistakes, lol
 

ttystikk

Well-Known Member
Running a breaker at 80% still isn't a good idea to be honest. I've had breakers fail with some regularity working in a machine shop. The constant load is what killed them. I err on the side of caution here, two 30 amp breakers for 4 kW is probably best.
No that's not what killed those breakers; a machine shop has electric motors that momentarily pull very high current loads as they come up to speed, every time you switch one on. THAT'S what can overload circuits and cause premature breaker failure.
 
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