@Camelbak44
most "experienced" growers don't grow organic, so they know so little about organics. they only know the world of dissolved nutrients in solution so their advice is not particularly helpful. I can tell that your understanding of an "organic" grow is flawed as well (please don't take offense as it is not personal, merely educational)
Way too much molasses (
too much potassium results in lower uptake of Ca and Mg which compounds and then disrupts many other processes). and remember, the teas don't "feed" the plants, they breed and put populations of microbes in the soil so they can break down matter into nutrients the plants can uptake. FFOF isn't particularly a soil that is dump out of the bag and grow until it's finished IMO.
also organic or not, Ph of the water matters A LOT when dealing with liming agents (FFOF has dolomite lime or some sort of lime). When you water in at a super low ph (4.x 5.x) you're going to be dissolving that lime at an incredible rate and when that lime is gone your Ph is going to drop, and your source of calcium in the container is going to disappear.
Basically you are the classic example of "too much attention and care" to the plant. you're trying to do too much for it. the whole idea of organics is to let nature happen. That being said, I do think that eventually the FFOF will run out of juice, and some sort of regimen of a nutrient tea is going to be needed to finish the plant which is fine. but for the most part you should have just given an AACT (casting + molasses bubbled 24hr) once, and then
plain water (ro water or rain water) for the first 3-4 weeks after transplant and then started on a regimen of nutrients after that (and yes the ph of those nutrients matters for the reason i've stated above, if you dissolve that lime entirely you will lose the ph buffer).
also im not sure how you're checking the ph of your soil, but basically unless you have a good tool like a bluelab ph probe or something like that, the cheaper tools are in fact quite useless.
also another thing to consider... when you let a pot get really light and dry, not only do you slow the processes of the microbes in the soil, you slow CEC which is responsible for nutrient availability and uptake.... and also something even more important is that things will start to precipitate out of solution (which means they will start to form bonds with each other and form soluble and sometimes insoluble compounds) in the soil. this not only creates a build up of things in your soil, but it will also make it hard for your plant to use these things because the microbes are the only thing that can break them back down (which requires moisture)
sorry i'm sure this is an overload of information... but it's all very accurate and very important to understand all of these concepts. So to fix your problem.... i would be trying to get the soil to an even moisture and keep it there all the time, and peat moss can be very hard to hydrate once it has gone dry because it gets hydrophobic. once you get the soil moist, you should probably give it some cal mag as you've been locking it out with the excess K. you should start to see it perk up a bit.... but you've done a lot of damage already....
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