Found bugs in soil. Plant in 3rd week of flower
- Thread starter garaiss92
- Start date
greasemonkeymann
Well-Known Member
well, from the pic it's virtually impossible to say...
if you are an organic soil you'll have tons of all sorts of beneficial bugs in the soil, if it's not, well you may have issues
if it's not a gnat, it's more than likely ok
if it was on your plants it'd be different
need more pics though, hard to see
if you are an organic soil you'll have tons of all sorts of beneficial bugs in the soil, if it's not, well you may have issues
if it's not a gnat, it's more than likely ok
if it was on your plants it'd be different
need more pics though, hard to see
garaiss92
Active Member
Thanks for answer.
I'm using very good (half organic?) NPK 13-40-13
B 0.025 ; Cu 0.01 Fe 0.07 Mn 0.04 Zn 0.025
It's not a gnat. More like little spider but not 100%.. hard to say
I have just x50 scope so it's already best pic what I can get..
Maybe there is some large bug pic, from what I can point out right one?
greasemonkeymann
Well-Known Member
damn dude, 13-40-13?!
I know i'm an organic grower but that ratio is waaaay off man
doesn't matter though
have a look at these pics here and tell me if they resemble what you have
https://www.bing.com/images/search?q=picture of spider mite&qs=n&form=QBIR&pq=picture of spider mite&sc=4-22&sp=-1&sk=
greasemonkeymann
Well-Known Member
if you are concerned I suggest a layer of horticulture sand on top of the media, that will prevent them
fine aquarium sand will work too, assuming it's sand and not crushed coral
garaiss92
Active Member
Fuck.. Then i am screwed
I use just 1g on 2l water, so my PH is always 6,5.
Ok, I'll check
garaiss92
Active Member
They are more like these -
greasemonkeymann
Well-Known Member
nah man, you aren't screwed..Fuck.. Then i am screwed
I use just 1g on 2l water, so my PH is always 6,5.
Ok, I'll check
just that the ratio is off.
but keep in mind i'm a organic-hippy..
i'm sure you could in fact use that nutrient just fine, just may lead to complications later, but who knows, some people get away with INSANE ratios
like 0-40-50..
god awful amounts of chemicals..
anyways, i'm not the dude to talk about that really
there are a LOT of really good chelated growers on this site, I'm just not one of em
greasemonkeymann
Well-Known Member
soil mites are normal, especially in an organic grow, just means you have a fairly healthy soil
I wouldn't sweat it unless you see fungus gnats, or any pinprick leaf damage (keep a look out for that)
but soil mites and spider mites are totally different
shit, if you wanna trip out on the bugs get a good close up of a fresh wormbin
wow...
garaiss92
Active Member
About nutrients - I'm diluting nutrients so ratio is about 1-3-1 and using only when plant have some nutrient deficit.
Thanks for answers.
Nah, don't want anything moving around my soil
greasemonkeymann
Well-Known Member
careful with that logic though man, you are indeed using an organic "based" nutrient, without the stuff (microbes and soil-life) in your soil the organic nutrients aren't even useableAbout nutrients - I'm diluting nutrients so ratio is about 1-3-1 and using only when plant have some nutrient deficit.
Thanks for answers.
Nah, don't want anything moving around my soil
just add a layer of sand to it and monitor after that, but you DO want some critters in your soil
heres a good read on them, and their harmless-ness
https://www.gardeningknowhow.com/plant-problems/pests/insects/soil-mites-info.htm[/QUOTE]
garaiss92
Active Member
[/QUOTE]
Ok, thank You for your advice. I appreciate.
Yes, I will check that site, because good information is never too much
OldMedUser
Well-Known Member
Diluting your nutrients doesn't change the ratio, just the amount of nutrients the plants get. One g/gal or 10g/gal it's still 13-40-13 which is too high in phosphorus. Better with a 10-10-10, 20-20-20 which are the same ratios in relation to the other but one is twice as concentrated. Neither of those are ideal but better than what you are using.
Don't know what those bugs are but the sand on top thing isn't likely going to do anything to get rid of them. Works for fungus gnats to prevent the adults from laying eggs on the soil but a soil dwelling bug won't care. Diatomaceous earth, DE, along with bottom watering works better than sand to prevent gnats as well. If they are root aphids they are going to slow down plant growth and can eventually kill the plant. DE that has been added to the soil mix prior to planting can help keep their numbers down. Also adds silica, calcium and many trace elements. Don't use the DE made for water filtering as it's been processed and isn't effective against bugs. Feed stores sell big bags of DE cheap.
Don't know what those bugs are but the sand on top thing isn't likely going to do anything to get rid of them. Works for fungus gnats to prevent the adults from laying eggs on the soil but a soil dwelling bug won't care. Diatomaceous earth, DE, along with bottom watering works better than sand to prevent gnats as well. If they are root aphids they are going to slow down plant growth and can eventually kill the plant. DE that has been added to the soil mix prior to planting can help keep their numbers down. Also adds silica, calcium and many trace elements. Don't use the DE made for water filtering as it's been processed and isn't effective against bugs. Feed stores sell big bags of DE cheap.
OldMedUser
Well-Known Member
greasemonkeymann
Well-Known Member
I like your user picture
people have no clue how evil that company is
OldMedUser
Well-Known Member
Thanks. I went through a few different ones but that one says it all.
Now that Bayer bought Monsanto they've added a Nazi organization to the mix. Uber Evil!
garaiss92
Active Member
Diluting your nutrients doesn't change the ratio, just the amount of nutrients the plants get. One g/gal or 10g/gal it's still 13-40-13 which is too high in phosphorus. Better with a 10-10-10, 20-20-20 which are the same ratios in relation to the other but one is twice as concentrated. Neither of those are ideal but better than what you are using.
Don't know what those bugs are but the sand on top thing isn't likely going to do anything to get rid of them. Works for fungus gnats to prevent the adults from laying eggs on the soil but a soil dwelling bug won't care. Diatomaceous earth, DE, along with bottom watering works better than sand to prevent gnats as well. If they are root aphids they are going to slow down plant growth and can eventually kill the plant. DE that has been added to the soil mix prior to planting can help keep their numbers down. Also adds silica, calcium and many trace elements. Don't use the DE made for water filtering as it's been processed and isn't effective against bugs. Feed stores sell big bags of DE cheap.
I can buy just these nutrients. Witch would be the best from these 2?
1st 1.9 - 0 - 6.7
2nd 5-5-6
There is a very small options of nutrients from what I can choose..
OldMedUser
Well-Known Member
Pretty limited choices you have there. Is there no chance of getting to somewhere that would have more or ordering some by phone or online?
Even some of the various powdered, water soluble nutes made for hydroponics systems would be better. Stuff called Peter's Professional, Jacks something or other and one I only have the Part B of is made by Nutrilife and is 3-9-27 meant for flowering. Those kinds of nutes are fairly inexpensive and will last for decades if not used up.
If all you can get for right now is those two I'd go with #2 for your vegging and then start adding #1 when you switch to flowering as it has a nice high level of K and reduced N which is good in later flowering. There will be enough of the P from using #1 to fill that gap.
garaiss92
Active Member
It's hard to get nutrients here because it's so illegal.. If i buy something like that, i could get in trouble. That's our countryPretty limited choices you have there. Is there no chance of getting to somewhere that would have more or ordering some by phone or online?
Even some of the various powdered, water soluble nutes made for hydroponics systems would be better. Stuff called Peter's Professional, Jacks something or other and one I only have the Part B of is made by Nutrilife and is 3-9-27 meant for flowering. Those kinds of nutes are fairly inexpensive and will last for decades if not used up.
If all you can get for right now is those two I'd go with #2 for your vegging and then start adding #1 when you switch to flowering as it has a nice high level of K and reduced N which is good in later flowering. There will be enough of the P from using #1 to fill that gap.
Thanks for answers.
