TGA By Others

LandAndHeir

LandAndHeir

Well-Known Member
Wrong place to ask Humboldt seed org. Questions man . This is a tga thread. Not tryin to be rude just trying to keep the thread on topic.
 
GreenSanta

GreenSanta

Well-Known Member
Mohican said:
I think a few seeds fell off of the Plushberry x Maui Wowie:



Cheers,
Mo
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I once grew a seed I became really attached to, it fell from a Dr.Grinspoon plant pollinated with a SpaceBomb male, When I harvested the Dr.Grinspoon, I found the seedling in the 10 gallon pot, I could not resist, (it was the first time for me lol) I had to grow this one plant out exactly where the seed fell. When it got a little bigger I topdressed and flowered, it was an amazing plant that I should have kept, the very first time it almost grew like quaze / Dr. Grinspoon (certain pheno) but with a little more meat on it, the weirdest looking buds, frosty like spacebomb, the sugar trim covered to the tip. I revegged that plant and grew it a few cycles, the yield was so small.

The most interesting thing about that cross is that it had the exact smell of Dr.Grinspoon, similar type of sativa high, but the finishing time of SpaceBomb, it was unreal. Knowing what I know now, knowing what a haze smells like, knowing how special a single plant can be, she would probably still be in my garden.

I still have seeds, I am scared to run them because of the likelihood of hermies (from Grinspoon) and the likelihood of extra long flowering time (also thanks to Grinspoon strain)

Anyway, long story short, volunteers are the best plants, look which female seems to dominate and kill the rest, have fun!!
 
radrolley

radrolley

Well-Known Member
ShLUbY said:
nice, i'm def gonna pick up a pack when i can afford it. having PM for so long.... set me waaaaaaayy back. thank goodness for sulfur burners :)
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You ever try higher temps to prevent mildew? Especially make sure it's not getting too cold during lights out which is a big problem a lot of people have with PM. The fluctuation in temp causes condensation. The only down side I noticed is some strains don't grow as well in the higher heat. Last winter I was PM free for the longest time until I tried going cheap on my heat and it came back. Plus I like the color changing effects the cold helps produce. This winter I kept my temps high like I used to prior years and haven;t seen a single spec. I also notice the times I did have mildew, the plants grown from seeds vs clones were much more resistant. I've also noticed PM seems to like the part of the plants that get less lighting but I have a theory this may be the heat from the HPS helps prevent it. The lower parts don't get as much light or heat. The PM for me actually seemed to be worse under the LED lights. Perhaps from less heat.Some strains of PM don't need much humidity. Although I still would always advise dehumidifier. I've used sulfur burners in the past but am not a big fan of them. Be careful not to breathe that stuff in and good luck.
 
ShLUbY

ShLUbY

Well-Known Member
radrolley said:
You ever try higher temps to prevent mildew? Especially make sure it's not getting too cold during lights out which is a big problem a lot of people have with PM. The fluctuation in temp causes condensation. The only down side I noticed is some strains don't grow as well in the higher heat. Last winter I was PM free for the longest time until I tried going cheap on my heat and it came back. Plus I like the color changing effects the cold helps produce. This winter I kept my temps high like I used to prior years and haven;t seen a single spec. I also notice the times I did have mildew, the plants grown from seeds vs clones were much more resistant. I've also noticed PM seems to like the part of the plants that get less lighting but I have a theory this may be the heat from the HPS helps prevent it. The lower parts don't get as much light or heat. The PM for me actually seemed to be worse under the LED lights. Perhaps from less heat.Some strains of PM don't need much humidity. Although I still would always advise dehumidifier. I've used sulfur burners in the past but am not a big fan of them. Be careful not to breathe that stuff in and good luck.
Click to expand...
well.... here's the key to it all.... PM need humidity/moisture to infect a plant so it likes to get into spaces where leaves overlap each other and H2O transpiring out of the plant gets trapped between the leaves and actually condensates onto the leaf surface being covered (stomata on underside of leaf releasing vapor and it's condensating on upper surface of the leaf below) Once a spore lands in that area, it sends out its germination tube to tap into the vascular system of the plant to start taking sugars to develop and grow. eventually it will mature and produce conidiophores (the mildew that we see) and those release conidiospores which get airborne and try and find another spot to land and infect.

I think the light zone is less affected because the leaf surface is just too dry to germinate the spore. also there is more air circulation which makes it harder for a spore to land. likewise if you have low low low humidity and a spore happens to make it into your room, it's hard for it to germinate because the leaf surface is so dry.

by increasing the air temp, you are effectively lowering the humidity, which is a good thing. however too high of temps with high humidity have ill effect on plants

but once you have infection of a plant, you're screwed. then humidity and what not doesn't matter. i know this because my plants i think were passing it on from clone to clone, and i was having outbreaks with humidity below 40% constantly.

the sulfur is pretty harmless as long as you're smart about it. don't go down there when the vapor is happening, wait for a bit for it to settle once the timer shuts off the unit. go down and turn your exhaust fans back on, leave, and come back later. The best part is sulfur is toxic to fungus in high doses, so i was able to actually cure my strains that were infected by letting them get coated with the vapor particles. also, the sulfur vape degrades spores that may still be in the environment, and that vapor gets in all the nooks and crannies of everywhere.

before i did the sulfur burns, i would be PM free until about the 5th week of flower and then the treatments (greencure, PM remover, ect) would wear off and boom, the species was hiding in the plant the whole time and when leaf surface ph got back to normal, it would start to grow the conidiophores (white stuff we see) and the process would start all over again. i was so frustrated i just wanted to give up. harvesting early to keep the buds clean = lower yield and i was testing out a run of plants and not doing my usual perpetual grow cycle.

i know for sure the garden is clean now because a) plants that were once infected did not get mildew at all during flower which went for 11 weeks for that strain. and b) the confidential cheese did not get mildew in flower this round and it was THE WORST STRAIN for mildew. i never saw mildew so thick in my life as i did on that strain. cheese strains in particular are very vulnerable to mildew.
 
LandAndHeir

LandAndHeir

Well-Known Member
Thanks sub. After purgatory (a) and agent orange finish in the 100s il get some nice progress and finished shots up
I'm about to dig out a pack of pink lady or qrazy train from back in 2010 when cheesecake lady was doing distro for ya.
 
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