Pick up this book: marijuana botany an advanced study: the propagation and breeding of distinctive cannabis by robert connell clarkeis there any good information in particular online about cannabis breeding? I'm sure RIU has a section but there's just so many opinions on here... I'd like just a good base reference so I can formulate my own ideas....
thank you good sir!!!! I'll see if amazon has it, i have Prime membership so i get free 2 day shippingPick up this book: marijuana botany an advanced study: the propagation and breeding of distinctive cannabis by robert connell clarke
That is some tough reading. I grow out as many seeds as possible and search for the winners.
I wish I could do it for a living!
Cheers,
Mo
nice I understand what you mean now about it being a tough read. I'm also working on a BS in Environmental Bio. That's awesome you're gonna build yourself a lab as well. I been wanting to get a scope, sometimes I watch ebay for a deal on a preowned one.I got my BS in Biology. It is just written very dryly. Needs to be made more approachable.
When my screen room is finished this spring I will start work on my botany lab.
Thank you for the info.well.... here's the key to it all.... PM need humidity/moisture to infect a plant so it likes to get into spaces where leaves overlap each other and H2O transpiring out of the plant gets trapped between the leaves and actually condensates onto the leaf surface being covered (stomata on underside of leaf releasing vapor and it's condensating on upper surface of the leaf below) Once a spore lands in that area, it sends out its germination tube to tap into the vascular system of the plant to start taking sugars to develop and grow. eventually it will mature and produce conidiophores (the mildew that we see) and those release conidiospores which get airborne and try and find another spot to land and infect.
I think the light zone is less affected because the leaf surface is just too dry to germinate the spore. also there is more air circulation which makes it harder for a spore to land. likewise if you have low low low humidity and a spore happens to make it into your room, it's hard for it to germinate because the leaf surface is so dry.
by increasing the air temp, you are effectively lowering the humidity, which is a good thing. however too high of temps with high humidity have ill effect on plants
but once you have infection of a plant, you're screwed. then humidity and what not doesn't matter. i know this because my plants i think were passing it on from clone to clone, and i was having outbreaks with humidity below 40% constantly.
the sulfur is pretty harmless as long as you're smart about it. don't go down there when the vapor is happening, wait for a bit for it to settle once the timer shuts off the unit. go down and turn your exhaust fans back on, leave, and come back later. The best part is sulfur is toxic to fungus in high doses, so i was able to actually cure my strains that were infected by letting them get coated with the vapor particles. also, the sulfur vape degrades spores that may still be in the environment, and that vapor gets in all the nooks and crannies of everywhere.
before i did the sulfur burns, i would be PM free until about the 5th week of flower and then the treatments (greencure, PM remover, ect) would wear off and boom, the species was hiding in the plant the whole time and when leaf surface ph got back to normal, it would start to grow the conidiophores (white stuff we see) and the process would start all over again. i was so frustrated i just wanted to give up. harvesting early to keep the buds clean = lower yield and i was testing out a run of plants and not doing my usual perpetual grow cycle.
i know for sure the garden is clean now because a) plants that were once infected did not get mildew at all during flower which went for 11 weeks for that strain. and b) the confidential cheese did not get mildew in flower this round and it was THE WORST STRAIN for mildew. i never saw mildew so thick in my life as i did on that strain. cheese strains in particular are very vulnerable to mildew.
is there any good information in particular online about cannabis breeding? I'm sure RIU has a section but there's just so many opinions on here... I'd like just a good base reference so I can formulate my own ideas....
Damn @ShLUbY, dunno how I missed this post but thank you, great info here!well.... here's the key to it all.... PM need humidity/moisture to infect a plant so it likes to get into spaces where leaves overlap each other and H2O transpiring out of the plant gets trapped between the leaves and actually condensates onto the leaf surface being covered (stomata on underside of leaf releasing vapor and it's condensating on upper surface of the leaf below) Once a spore lands in that area, it sends out its germination tube to tap into the vascular system of the plant to start taking sugars to develop and grow. eventually it will mature and produce conidiophores (the mildew that we see) and those release conidiospores which get airborne and try and find another spot to land and infect.
I think the light zone is less affected because the leaf surface is just too dry to germinate the spore. also there is more air circulation which makes it harder for a spore to land. likewise if you have low low low humidity and a spore happens to make it into your room, it's hard for it to germinate because the leaf surface is so dry.
by increasing the air temp, you are effectively lowering the humidity, which is a good thing. however too high of temps with high humidity have ill effect on plants
but once you have infection of a plant, you're screwed. then humidity and what not doesn't matter. i know this because my plants i think were passing it on from clone to clone, and i was having outbreaks with humidity below 40% constantly.
the sulfur is pretty harmless as long as you're smart about it. don't go down there when the vapor is happening, wait for a bit for it to settle once the timer shuts off the unit. go down and turn your exhaust fans back on, leave, and come back later. The best part is sulfur is toxic to fungus in high doses, so i was able to actually cure my strains that were infected by letting them get coated with the vapor particles. also, the sulfur vape degrades spores that may still be in the environment, and that vapor gets in all the nooks and crannies of everywhere.
before i did the sulfur burns, i would be PM free until about the 5th week of flower and then the treatments (greencure, PM remover, ect) would wear off and boom, the species was hiding in the plant the whole time and when leaf surface ph got back to normal, it would start to grow the conidiophores (white stuff we see) and the process would start all over again. i was so frustrated i just wanted to give up. harvesting early to keep the buds clean = lower yield and i was testing out a run of plants and not doing my usual perpetual grow cycle.
i know for sure the garden is clean now because a) plants that were once infected did not get mildew at all during flower which went for 11 weeks for that strain. and b) the confidential cheese did not get mildew in flower this round and it was THE WORST STRAIN for mildew. i never saw mildew so thick in my life as i did on that strain. cheese strains in particular are very vulnerable to mildew.