TGA By Others

ShLUbY · Jan 26, 2017

is there any good information in particular online about cannabis breeding? I'm sure RIU has a section but there's just so many opinions on here... I'd like just a good base reference so I can formulate my own ideas....

Vnsmkr · Jan 26, 2017

ShLUbY said:
is there any good information in particular online about cannabis breeding? I'm sure RIU has a section but there's just so many opinions on here... I'd like just a good base reference so I can formulate my own ideas....

Pick up this book: marijuana botany an advanced study: the propagation and breeding of distinctive cannabis by robert connell clarke

ShLUbY · Jan 26, 2017

Vnsmkr said:
Pick up this book: marijuana botany an advanced study: the propagation and breeding of distinctive cannabis by robert connell clarke

thank you good sir!!!! I'll see if amazon has it, i have Prime membership so i get free 2 day shipping

Vnsmkr · Jan 26, 2017

They do, thats where I got it

ShLUbY · Jan 26, 2017

oh yeah, they had it. snatched it up and another one called The Cannabis Breeder's Bible: The definitive guide to marijuana genetics, cannabis botany, and creating seeds for the market

Vnsmkr · Jan 26, 2017

I have both of those. The one I listed by rob clarke is a gem. He also has another hardback which is full of great info, but its a bit more costly (have it too).

Mohican · Jan 26, 2017

That is some tough reading. I grow out as many seeds as possible and search for the winners.

I wish I could do it for a living!

Cheers,
Mo

ShLUbY · Jan 26, 2017

Mohican said:
That is some tough reading. I grow out as many seeds as possible and search for the winners.

I wish I could do it for a living!

Cheers,
Mo

you could if you reeeeeally wanted to

It might be tough reading but i'm going to school for this shit so it'll be in a language I can understand.

LOOK AT ALL THOSE!!!!! got dang mang! :shock:

Mohican · Jan 26, 2017

I got my BS in Biology. It is just written very dryly. Needs to be made more approachable.

When my screen room is finished this spring I will start work on my botany lab.

ShLUbY · Jan 26, 2017

Mohican said:
I got my BS in Biology. It is just written very dryly. Needs to be made more approachable.

When my screen room is finished this spring I will start work on my botany lab.

nice

I understand what you mean now about it being a tough read. I'm also working on a BS in Environmental Bio. That's awesome you're gonna build yourself a lab as well. I been wanting to get a scope, sometimes I watch ebay for a deal on a preowned one.

are those all seeds from one cross you have going there?

elkamino · Jan 26, 2017

Mohican said:
That is some tough reading. I grow out as many seeds as possible and search for the winners.

I wish I could do it for a living!

Cheers,
Mo

NOICE garlic Mo!

Krippled · Jan 27, 2017

Grape Lime Ricky @ day 42

radrolley · Jan 28, 2017

ShLUbY said:
well.... here's the key to it all.... PM need humidity/moisture to infect a plant so it likes to get into spaces where leaves overlap each other and H2O transpiring out of the plant gets trapped between the leaves and actually condensates onto the leaf surface being covered (stomata on underside of leaf releasing vapor and it's condensating on upper surface of the leaf below) Once a spore lands in that area, it sends out its germination tube to tap into the vascular system of the plant to start taking sugars to develop and grow. eventually it will mature and produce conidiophores (the mildew that we see) and those release conidiospores which get airborne and try and find another spot to land and infect.

I think the light zone is less affected because the leaf surface is just too dry to germinate the spore. also there is more air circulation which makes it harder for a spore to land. likewise if you have low low low humidity and a spore happens to make it into your room, it's hard for it to germinate because the leaf surface is so dry.

by increasing the air temp, you are effectively lowering the humidity, which is a good thing. however too high of temps with high humidity have ill effect on plants

but once you have infection of a plant, you're screwed. then humidity and what not doesn't matter. i know this because my plants i think were passing it on from clone to clone, and i was having outbreaks with humidity below 40% constantly.

the sulfur is pretty harmless as long as you're smart about it. don't go down there when the vapor is happening, wait for a bit for it to settle once the timer shuts off the unit. go down and turn your exhaust fans back on, leave, and come back later. The best part is sulfur is toxic to fungus in high doses, so i was able to actually cure my strains that were infected by letting them get coated with the vapor particles. also, the sulfur vape degrades spores that may still be in the environment, and that vapor gets in all the nooks and crannies of everywhere.

before i did the sulfur burns, i would be PM free until about the 5th week of flower and then the treatments (greencure, PM remover, ect) would wear off and boom, the species was hiding in the plant the whole time and when leaf surface ph got back to normal, it would start to grow the conidiophores (white stuff we see) and the process would start all over again. i was so frustrated i just wanted to give up. harvesting early to keep the buds clean = lower yield and i was testing out a run of plants and not doing my usual perpetual grow cycle.

i know for sure the garden is clean now because a) plants that were once infected did not get mildew at all during flower which went for 11 weeks for that strain. and b) the confidential cheese did not get mildew in flower this round and it was THE WORST STRAIN for mildew. i never saw mildew so thick in my life as i did on that strain. cheese strains in particular are very vulnerable to mildew.

Thank you for the info.
In higher temps the mildew spores cannot reproduce. All my clones are from clones of clones etc. that have had mildew at least one time(times I went cheap with my heat). I raised my temp it never comes back until I drop the temps again. I try to keep my RO at 30% but sometimes on the real humid days it gets 40-50%. Winter it always stays about 30% I never had mildew in the middle of summer, only during the colder times. Certain strains can handle the higher temps and even grow more vigorous in the higher temps especially with co2. A friend of mine though only grows clones that I give him same exact strains as me. He grows in lower temps than me but he doesnt allow much fluctuation between day/night cycle so moisture/condensation doesnt form as easy. His plants don't grow nearly as fast but the buds on some strains are tighter. He uses a lot of concentrated nutrients though where as I am about 95% SS.

Yodaweed · Jan 28, 2017

I got 2 surviving Chernobyl seeds, most likely my fault they did not all germ, i went full retard :dunce:

and forgot the dome for these for some reason :wall:

i went right from the paper towel to their 1 gal containers .....but anyway i am hoping these 2 do good, happy growing all

radrolley · Jan 28, 2017

MBK

radrolley · Jan 29, 2017

ShLUbY said:
is there any good information in particular online about cannabis breeding? I'm sure RIU has a section but there's just so many opinions on here... I'd like just a good base reference so I can formulate my own ideas....

I want to say a while back I seen a vid where subcool was showing off a room full of males but I can't find it now or maybe I was confusing it with another vid.

radrolley · Jan 29, 2017

My Lemon Ripper. Green House Seeds Super Lemon Haze(Feminized, they don't make it in regular) Fathered with TGA Subcool's Jack The Ripper. That same SLH which I still clone to this day seems to have a shorter flowering time than other SLH plants I have grown from seed. The JTR male had less of a stretch than a few other JTRs I have grown from seed. I didn't do no massive pheno hunt like the big pros do. I know the more seeds you grow out the better chances of finding a better pheno. That applies for males too. I'm limited with space, plant count, and other factors so it is what it is. Was a fun experiment though that exceeded my expectations. I also learned a valuable lesson, a little pollen goes a long way. They are not exaggerating when they say how far pollen can go. I ended up with several other strains crossed with JTR as well.

There was over twice as much there but patients got it before the cameras did.

elkamino · Jan 29, 2017

ShLUbY said:
well.... here's the key to it all.... PM need humidity/moisture to infect a plant so it likes to get into spaces where leaves overlap each other and H2O transpiring out of the plant gets trapped between the leaves and actually condensates onto the leaf surface being covered (stomata on underside of leaf releasing vapor and it's condensating on upper surface of the leaf below) Once a spore lands in that area, it sends out its germination tube to tap into the vascular system of the plant to start taking sugars to develop and grow. eventually it will mature and produce conidiophores (the mildew that we see) and those release conidiospores which get airborne and try and find another spot to land and infect.

I think the light zone is less affected because the leaf surface is just too dry to germinate the spore. also there is more air circulation which makes it harder for a spore to land. likewise if you have low low low humidity and a spore happens to make it into your room, it's hard for it to germinate because the leaf surface is so dry.

by increasing the air temp, you are effectively lowering the humidity, which is a good thing. however too high of temps with high humidity have ill effect on plants

but once you have infection of a plant, you're screwed. then humidity and what not doesn't matter. i know this because my plants i think were passing it on from clone to clone, and i was having outbreaks with humidity below 40% constantly.

the sulfur is pretty harmless as long as you're smart about it. don't go down there when the vapor is happening, wait for a bit for it to settle once the timer shuts off the unit. go down and turn your exhaust fans back on, leave, and come back later. The best part is sulfur is toxic to fungus in high doses, so i was able to actually cure my strains that were infected by letting them get coated with the vapor particles. also, the sulfur vape degrades spores that may still be in the environment, and that vapor gets in all the nooks and crannies of everywhere.

before i did the sulfur burns, i would be PM free until about the 5th week of flower and then the treatments (greencure, PM remover, ect) would wear off and boom, the species was hiding in the plant the whole time and when leaf surface ph got back to normal, it would start to grow the conidiophores (white stuff we see) and the process would start all over again. i was so frustrated i just wanted to give up. harvesting early to keep the buds clean = lower yield and i was testing out a run of plants and not doing my usual perpetual grow cycle.

i know for sure the garden is clean now because a) plants that were once infected did not get mildew at all during flower which went for 11 weeks for that strain. and b) the confidential cheese did not get mildew in flower this round and it was THE WORST STRAIN for mildew. i never saw mildew so thick in my life as i did on that strain. cheese strains in particular are very vulnerable to mildew.

Damn @ShLUbY, dunno how I missed this post but thank you, great info here! :clap:

ShLUbY · Jan 29, 2017

elkamino said:
Damn @ShLUbY, dunno how I missed this post but thank you, great info here!

Thanks, just trying to share my experience and shed light on how to rid your garden of that awful stuff. IMO, i'd rather have bugs than any kind of negative fungus anyday. :peace: