They SUGGEST [email protected] newbie begs to differ [email protected] with 6.5max Fluctuation

Where do you SET your pH @ for the start of the week ?


  • Total voters
    14

MickFoster

Well-Known Member
Aren't you the same guy that started a thread on nutrients last Thursday and said that you had 4 different complete nutrient lines and you couldn't afford neem oil after a guy suggested it for a potential bug problem?
 
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jarvild

Well-Known Member
Excuse me sir, did you say city tap water and bottled spring water? Why not one or the other?
Happy growing.
 

nfhiggs

Well-Known Member
I've been pH adjusting my "ladies" since 12/26/16 to [email protected] during my whole GROW. During this time I've experienced yellowing between the veins of my new growth along with some older leaves. During the past weeks I've had this issue although the plants were developing new growth. I've tried to, in minimal portions, add nutrients after seeing that my PPMs were low or adjusting pH back to [email protected]. Now, I've been doing this faithfully and haven't seen any results much. My notes do show that when my pH was accidentally dropped a few times below 5.8 at exactly [email protected] I saw what I believed the next day to be "improvement". However, that was "short-lived" the following next 2 days according to my notes when my pH was adjusted back to [email protected]. The leaves, again, began to yellow along the new growth and old leaves. This past week I've been analyzing my PRECISE "notes" I've saw a pattern where leaves would improve during times my pH was "OFF". I began to run test on some,3.5 weeks EXACT since Germination, plants of the same strain. I pH adjusted 2 plants at a routine rate of [email protected] with a fluctuation ranging max @6.5 during all 3.5 weeks my leaves were yellowing. I pH adjusted 2 other at the same routine rate of [email protected] with a fluctuation ranging max [email protected] NO yellowing appears what so ever. Both plants were tested using NO nutrients.

What I found is that at a range of [email protected] the plant does not receive enough "manganese". My test have concluded that at [email protected] the plants new growth has extreme yellow along with old growth. My test showed that [email protected] displays no yellowing on any parts of the leaves.

Function: Manganese is used in plants as a major contributor to various biological systems including photosynthesis, respiration, and nitrogen assimilation. Manganese is also involved in pollen germination, pollen tube growth, root cell elongation and resistance to root pathogens. SOURCE (http://www.pthorticulture.com/en/training-center/role-of-manganese-in-plant-culture/)

I'm not sure if I'm CORRECT, though my test show I could be. To keep your [email protected] during your whole growth can induce toxicity in the plant as manganese is needed only in very small portions and is easily consumed at pH&5.5. I recommend starting the week at [email protected] and continuously lowering pH if needed to no LOWER than [email protected] as most important nutrients such as Calcium and Mangnesium aren't consumed anywhere below [email protected]*.

That is what I have discovered during my past 3.5 weeks of Germination for the SWEET TOOTH KUSH. Please EXPRESS yourself freely even if it is harsh. I am not offended as this was a test that solely proved plants needed a [email protected] during the start of my week. I could be wrong. I just don't see how if my test showed otherwise. Unfortunately, I didn't take photographs. I will my next test pH test @2/28/17
TBH, this is really nothing groundbreaking or earthshattering. Its often stated NOT to keep your PH locked in to a single number, its far better to let it wander throughout the range from top to bottom.
 

MaloMAL

Active Member
Aren't you the same guy that started a thread on nutrients last Thursday and said that you had 4 different complete nutrient lines and you couldn't afford neem oil after a guy suggested it for a potential bug problem?
It wasn't a bug. And yes that was I. I shop at local stores and the shop I go to charges far too much for Neem Oil. It comes in different brands. The brand he offers is LARGE for some obnoxious reason and it's an upward 89.99$ :finger:. But yea thanks for attempting to ridicule me and obviously challenge my integrity.... :dunce: haha lmao
 

MaloMAL

Active Member
Excuse me sir, did you say city tap water and bottled spring water? Why not one or the other?
Happy growing.
Yes, I was running another test in conjunction. It's just an experiment as I ran a month and a half ago using municipal water vs Poland spring vs RO. RO lost. Lol makes me people mad but it did. Maybe I did something totally wrong.
 

MaloMAL

Active Member
TBH, this is really nothing groundbreaking or earthshattering. Its often stated NOT to keep your PH locked in to a single number, its far better to let it wander throughout the range from top to bottom.
I agree. I was just sharing my thoughts. And giving people an insight on a test i ran. I never keep pH at a certain digit.... I let I ride, I let it ride lol.

Peace
 

jarvild

Well-Known Member
Yes, I was running another test in conjunction. It's just an experiment as I ran a month and a half ago using municipal water vs Poland spring vs RO. RO lost. Lol makes me people mad but it did. Maybe I did something totally wrong.
I run RO because my water is in the 450 ppm range from the tap, that and I know exactly what nutrients are in my mix at what proportions. Makes it a whole lot easier to diagnose problem.
 

MaloMAL

Active Member
I run RO because my water is in the 450 ppm range from the tap, that and I know exactly what nutrients are in my mix at what proportions. Makes it a whole lot easier to diagnose problem.
Yea that is why I took the EXTENSIVE time to research my municipicals water chart and results to keep an update on whats in my water. The PPM in their case is rated at E.C which is in this chart. I added my EXACT ppm for my municipical water. I can't get to the PDF here to send you my local municipicals chart. But this is how to convert the ppm into their E.C which is the number I can recall seeing, again I can't upload the PDF. BTW, my babies are doing very very well since I adjusted the pH back to 5.5 on the yellowing plants. It is currently @6.2 and looking very beautiful. I'll send you a photo. No led right ¿
 

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KryptoBud

Well-Known Member
Yea that is why I took the EXTENSIVE time to research my municipicals water chart and results to keep an update on whats in my water. The PPM in their case is rated at E.C which is in this chart. I added my EXACT ppm for my municipical water. I can't get to the PDF here to send you my local municipicals chart. But this is how to convert the ppm into their E.C which is the number I can recall seeing, again I can't upload the PDF. BTW, my babies are doing very very well since I adjusted the pH back to 5.5 on the yellowing plants. It is currently @6.2 and looking very beautiful. I'll send you a photo. No led right ¿
You might be overthinking things. PH is a range not a specific number. As your plants take in nutrients and water the PH & PPM change. When more water is taken in PPM goes up and ph goes down in your rez and vice versa. Most PH charts for hydro are 5.5 - 6.5 it has to fluctuate to absorb everything it needs. Even in soil the PH changes if you water plants and check the runoff it'll be lower coming out than going in
 

KryptoBud

Well-Known Member
not if you do drain to waste. pH/EC are constant.
Is that what OP is doing? I thought it looked liked dwc or a similar style. Is it common for people doing drain to waste to make a weeks worth of solution Ph it and leave it until its ready to use? Doesn't evaporation over a weeks time change PH/PPM? Sounds like a bad idea to leave water/nutes stagnant for a week before using, but the only drain to waste I've done is in soil and I mixed nutes when I intended on using the so you could be right.
 

MaloMAL

Active Member
Bottom photo is the plant that underwent extreme yellowing while setting my pH during the start of the week @5.8. 2 days ago I set them to 5.5 and they started to green. This is how they look. Current [email protected] Monday @5.5 1/30/17. Sunday 1/29/17 pH check showed 6.4 started that Monday January 23rd at 5.8. So literally in 2 days I went from yellow due to pH start @5.8 to completely green with the exception of what the yellowing caused. No issues since Monday. FACTS people facts

The first 3 photos show my 6x3gallon DWC system I got going. They underwent 36 hours of sleep @2:30am Saturday 1/28/17 and ended Sunday @2:30pm. I am on Day 4 of 12/12 cycle without including the 36 hours of pitch black darkness....
 

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rkymtnman

Well-Known Member
Is it common for people doing drain to waste to make a weeks worth of solution Ph it and leave it until its ready to use? Doesn't evaporation over a weeks time change PH/PPM? Sounds like a bad idea to leave water/nutes stagnant for a week before using, but the only drain to waste I've done is in soil and I mixed nutes when I intended on using the so you could be right.
i do dtw in hempy buckets. i mix up my nutes/water and it will stay constant pH/EC for up to 14 days. i use a small water pump in my res as a waterfall to keep the nutes mixed up and aerated. I just use RO, GH flora duo and DG pro-tekt silica.
 

MaloMAL

Active Member
You put those plants at that size and condition into flower? How much do you think you can yield off of them?
Not expecting much. The plants were finely pruned that is also why they appear a bit bald. They are short. I must agree I won't get much from them. I'm not eager too as this was an experiment I was running. I'm happy to get what ever god gives me. I manifolded in 4 one of the . Kept one bushy. Topped one the. Split it down in two. Topped 3 along with a fim. Also have been pruning them this past week. They were all soooooooo bushy man. I have PLT. 1 = 14 nodes PLT. 2 = 16 nodes PLT. 3 = 22 nodes (FAR BACK NEXT TO BIGGIE) PLT. 4 31 nodes (BIGGIE) PLT. 5 22 miniature nodes in 4 separate divisions of growth (manifolded) PLT.6 19 nodes aka Sofia. The bushy motherfucker won my experiment as you can see. I was seeing how LST can affect the outcome of a plants growth. Each of these had different LST methods performed while at seedling stage with the exception of PLT. 4. The only one who showed massive growth was the only one who was not LSTed PLT. 4. Also where do you an issue lol ¿
 

MaloMAL

Active Member
what are the facts? seems like your pH is climbing as it usually does in DWC. 6.4 is too high for hydro though. i wouldn't go above 6.1
My brother please FULLY read in order to comprehend my responses . I said that when I started the pH LAST MONDAY 1/23/17 @5.8 then on SUNDAY 1/29/17 I ended pH @6.4. During this whole time and BEFORE I was experiencing YELLOW. Now on this Monday 1/30/17 I stated the week at a pH of 5.5 and all YELLOWING has disappeared. Now your asking where are the facts. Look at the photo below. Where you CLEARLY SEE GREEN due to the fact I began my pH @5.5 considering that 2.5 weeks prior to changing my pH it was started at 5.8.... I'm also having a healthy pH level since Ive made this adjustement. Now the other plant of the same strain same everything was always set to start at 5.5 and IT NEVER YELLOWED.
 

MickFoster

Well-Known Member
With all due respect - I really don't know what you're trying to accomplish - the only way to get anything out of an experiment about lst is to keep your plants healthy and yours are not - so it proves nothing. This is a healthy plant 4 weeks from seed and lst'd. Judging by the growth it disproves your so-called experiment.

4.5 weeks.JPG
 
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