firsttimeARE
Well-Known Member
Naw. The mix is 5-12-26 but the cano3 has 15.5% N and 19% Ca.
I target around 1.1EC which is 2.4g/gal mix and 1.6g/gal CaNO3
Bubbleponics growing slow NOOB
- Thread starter NORMLnorm
- Start date
I target around 1.1EC which is 2.4g/gal mix and 1.6g/gal CaNO3
NORMLnorm
Active Member
Update day 23
Roots are really taking off in all 3.
The 2 smaller ones are still showing the effects of whatever previously happened.
Should I trim those bottom mangled leaves off?
ph has been very steady.. can go a day or 2 wo adjusting. 5.7 - 6.05
Ive raised ppm to 400 over the last week
Res temp avg 68, never over 70.
Temp 75-79, hum 45-60%
lights 24
I'm changing out the res today, moreso just to make sure all the levels are correct.
It has been 2 weeks since the flush, refill w nutes, etc.
I had added nutes, clmg and HG w RO twice during that timeframe to replenish/raise ppm.
How is it looking so far guys? Thanks again for all the help!!
OldMedUser
Well-Known Member
Looking alright. I notice your pH probe is down pretty low. The nute level should be just an inch below the bottom of the net pots so it looks like the top of the probe would be submerged when it's filled properly. Could just be the angle you took the picture at too.
If the bottom leaves are real bad you could remove them but you could just snip off the dead areas. If most of a leaf is green it will still help a small plant get bigger faster. As the plant gets bigger it's best to remove leaves that are really low down to allow better airflow around the base of the stem.
So far, so good.
If the bottom leaves are real bad you could remove them but you could just snip off the dead areas. If most of a leaf is green it will still help a small plant get bigger faster. As the plant gets bigger it's best to remove leaves that are really low down to allow better airflow around the base of the stem.
So far, so good.
NORMLnorm
Active Member
Yes, that is just the angle, although I did move the probe up a little just to be safe.Looking alright. I notice your pH probe is down pretty low. The nute level should be just an inch below the bottom of the net pots so it looks like the top of the probe would be submerged when it's filled properly. Could just be the angle you took the picture at too.
If the bottom leaves are real bad you could remove them but you could just snip off the dead areas. If most of a leaf is green it will still help a small plant get bigger faster. As the plant gets bigger it's best to remove leaves that are really low down to allow better airflow around the base of the stem.
So far, so good.
rkymtnman
Well-Known Member
can you get your room to optimal temps and humidity for co2? 85 to 90F, around 40%RH. and can you keep your res temps down if your room temps go up that high?
NORMLnorm
Active Member
hmm.... prob have to add a small heater until seasons change to keep that warm.
I have a chiller built into the res and I do not have it on all the time right now, keeping 68-69, 70.2 most when room was 78.
Sounds like it would be close, but I do have an aquarium chiller that I can break out if needed.
So I'm assuming those are the numbers I'm looking to maintain if running co2?
If I can, when do I add the co2?
Thanks!!
OldMedUser
Well-Known Member
The best time to start your CO2 is once the plants are getting larger and the extra can really spur their growth. The week or so before flipping to flower and all during stretch is when they can really make use of it. Less so after that tho keeping the CO2 up 2x over normal like 800ppm until week 6 helps. Once the colas get fat you run a higher risk of bud rot at the higher temps and RH. The plants are also not using near as much gas while just fattening up the buds near the end.
When using CO2 you have to keep everything running full speed ahead. Extra nutes, light and temps. If one of those are lacking then CO2 is a waste of time. It's akin to racing down the mountain compared to keeping at the posted limits. A nice leisurely drive or white knuckles with maybe a crash along the way.
When using CO2 you have to keep everything running full speed ahead. Extra nutes, light and temps. If one of those are lacking then CO2 is a waste of time. It's akin to racing down the mountain compared to keeping at the posted limits. A nice leisurely drive or white knuckles with maybe a crash along the way.
NORMLnorm
Active Member
ok thanks for the info!
Day 28 - Here are some updates: (in order)
SDiesel is really taking off. Just about ready to top it.
KandyKush (freebie) and PnapplExprss(old) are coming back nicely, but are short and stubby.
Nutes, have been increasing slowly - 400-425 ppm - RO, Hydroguard, GH duo, Clmag
Res keeping under 70
What is your preference on topping vs FIM? I read numerous other posts and cant decipher if one is better than the other.
I think I may wait for a little more experience before I add the "nitrous" (co2)...lol
Day 28 - Here are some updates: (in order)
SDiesel is really taking off. Just about ready to top it.
KandyKush (freebie) and PnapplExprss(old) are coming back nicely, but are short and stubby.
Nutes, have been increasing slowly - 400-425 ppm - RO, Hydroguard, GH duo, Clmag
Res keeping under 70
What is your preference on topping vs FIM? I read numerous other posts and cant decipher if one is better than the other.
I think I may wait for a little more experience before I add the "nitrous" (co2)...lol
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rkymtnman
Well-Known Member
old med user gave great advice. co2 is when everything else is 100% optimal.
and for me, i let my plants grow naturally. don't touch until they get the axe.
OldMedUser
Well-Known Member
Usually topping is done to increase the amount of grow tips on your plant to give more top colas and force the plant to spread out rather than grow straight up. Then you perform LST, Low Stress Training, on the branches as they grow out to open up the middle of the plant to allow light into the middle and get even more colas from the side branches. as they branch out. An extreme example of this is "Mainlining".
To get more grow tips a technique called FIM, Fuck I missed!, can be used to get 4 or more grow tips from one cut. Tricky, but when it works saves time over topping twice to get multiple grow tips. Handy if you plan to ScroG your plant.
You don't want to use "nitrous" for your plants. Nitrous is NO2, Nitrogen dioxide, aka laughing gas. You'll have more fun tending your plants but they lack the capacity to laugh so it would be wasted on them. Stick to CO2. They still won't laugh but they sure will be happy.
NORMLnorm
Active Member
I got ya OMU...I used the nitrous example towards your mountain example.Usually topping is done to increase the amount of grow tips on your plant to give more top colas and force the plant to spread out rather than grow straight up. Then you perform LST, Low Stress Training, on the branches as they grow out to open up the middle of the plant to allow light into the middle and get even more colas from the side branches. as they branch out. An extreme example of this is "Mainlining".
To get more grow tips a technique called FIM, Fuck I missed!, can be used to get 4 or more grow tips from one cut. Tricky, but when it works saves time over topping twice to get multiple grow tips. Handy if you plan to ScroG your plant.
View attachment 3892431
You don't want to use "nitrous" for your plants. Nitrous is NO2, Nitrogen dioxide, aka laughing gas. You'll have more fun tending your plants but they lack the capacity to laugh so it would be wasted on them. Stick to CO2. They still won't laugh but they sure will be happy.
My bad on the topping vs LST....I meant FIM... this was the example I had been looking for!
Thanks again all!!
firsttimeARE
Well-Known Member
Like not even once to check the pH? Like...not...even...once?!
firsttimeARE
Well-Known Member
Is it really optimal to run plants at 85 to 90F? I've always heard you can run higher temperatures with CO2, but I never heard of it in a way that its optimal to run those higher temps. More like it was tolerable at those temps with CO2 run at higher than atmospheric. As long as his VPD is right id think would be the biggie, but I don't run CO2 so maybe im just out of my element commenting on this.
firsttimeARE
Well-Known Member
Going back to this...Part of me thinks higher temps because most people who run CO2 have a sealed room and its harder to keep humidity in check so with a higher humidity you need to run a higher temperature to keep the VPD at a good level.
A temp of 90F and 40% would have the opposite effect on stomata opening and all the CO2 would be a bust because they plant cant even use what it has at atmospheric levels.
Air movement is also key to move that CO2 around. Plants dont got straws.
CO2 shouldnt even be on your radar at this point, and you know that, but I had to say it.
I have a lot of people in the house so I just circulate air from the room into the house. Warms the house in the winter(until I get COBs) and provides CO2 replenishment.
In the summer that exhaust goes outside. But I live in a temperate climate and grow in a basement so I just need to watch humidity levels and supplement with a little AC when it gets bad. With COBs I wouldnt need any supplemental cooling since HID lighting has me sometimes cycling between exhaust to replenish CO2 and AC, which is very wasteful, but some days I need the AC.
A temp of 90F and 40% would have the opposite effect on stomata opening and all the CO2 would be a bust because they plant cant even use what it has at atmospheric levels.
Air movement is also key to move that CO2 around. Plants dont got straws.
CO2 shouldnt even be on your radar at this point, and you know that, but I had to say it.
I have a lot of people in the house so I just circulate air from the room into the house. Warms the house in the winter(until I get COBs) and provides CO2 replenishment.
In the summer that exhaust goes outside. But I live in a temperate climate and grow in a basement so I just need to watch humidity levels and supplement with a little AC when it gets bad. With COBs I wouldnt need any supplemental cooling since HID lighting has me sometimes cycling between exhaust to replenish CO2 and AC, which is very wasteful, but some days I need the AC.
rkymtnman
Well-Known Member
stand alone res outside the grow room. not...even...once. lol.
i will take a snip towards the end to scope the trichs. but that's more of a gentle caress than a touch. lol.
rkymtnman
Well-Known Member
and i thought it was based more on the stomata being most open at those really high temps and could handle the high CO2
my room and environment is far from optimal. i use CO2 for my mini kegerator. priorities, First!!
firsttimeARE
Well-Known Member
Yeah but at those high temps an RH of 40 would give you a high vpd. Stomata less open.
For 95F to be optimal VPD you wanna have like 80%RH
For 95F to be optimal VPD you wanna have like 80%RH
