Jonstipated
Well-Known Member
ps here she is, looking pretty sad right now it's bedtime.
Is this from heat/humidity?
- Thread starter Jonstipated
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Jonstipated
Well-Known Member
I will. You don't think I could use the diamond nectar, though?
Jonstipated
Well-Known Member
Fulvic & humic acids
im4satori
Well-Known Member
im4satori
Well-Known Member
How Are Humic & Fulvic Acid Different?
The difference between humic and fulvic acids is that humic acids are not water soluble under very low pH conditions whereas fulvic acids are water soluble under all pH conditions (and, as mentioned earlier, fulvic acids are just humic acids that have been further microbially processed).
Remember how I mentioned earlier that humic acids and fulvic acids are the “products” of microbial decay of organic matter AND how I mentioned that chemical fertilizers kill off virtually all soil microbial activity? That means that chemically fertilized soils CANNOT produce more humus, humic acid, fulvic acid or humates from the organic matter left behind after a harvest.
So, from the time that you begin using chemical fertilizers on your fields, gardens or lawn, you begin the process of continually depleting these most important components of soil structure and biology. Once they are gone, the soil is completely dead and will grow virtually nothing until you re-balance this soil ecosystem
More Differences to Note
Fulvic acids are actually about 10 times smaller than humic acids and have double the oxygen content. They are also much more chemically reactive, having an exchange capacity that is double that of humic acids.
They are especially useful within foliar fertilizer applications because they more readily chelate the minerals WITHIN the fertilizer as well as whatever minerals might be already on the leaf of the plant AND the minerals in the soil (from fertilizer that does NOT end up on the leaf).
As a result, the plant VERY quickly takes up the minerals from that fertilizer (either through the leaf or through the root system from the soil) and immediately transports those chelated minerals to metabolic sites within the plant’s cells.
Read more: http://guarding-our-earth.com/organic-fertilizer/organic-fertilizer/fulvic-acid-humic-acid-chelation/#ixzz4WAq7AL00
Follow us: @GreatOrganics on Twitter | GreatOrganics on Facebook
The difference between humic and fulvic acids is that humic acids are not water soluble under very low pH conditions whereas fulvic acids are water soluble under all pH conditions (and, as mentioned earlier, fulvic acids are just humic acids that have been further microbially processed).
Remember how I mentioned earlier that humic acids and fulvic acids are the “products” of microbial decay of organic matter AND how I mentioned that chemical fertilizers kill off virtually all soil microbial activity? That means that chemically fertilized soils CANNOT produce more humus, humic acid, fulvic acid or humates from the organic matter left behind after a harvest.
So, from the time that you begin using chemical fertilizers on your fields, gardens or lawn, you begin the process of continually depleting these most important components of soil structure and biology. Once they are gone, the soil is completely dead and will grow virtually nothing until you re-balance this soil ecosystem
More Differences to Note
Fulvic acids are actually about 10 times smaller than humic acids and have double the oxygen content. They are also much more chemically reactive, having an exchange capacity that is double that of humic acids.
They are especially useful within foliar fertilizer applications because they more readily chelate the minerals WITHIN the fertilizer as well as whatever minerals might be already on the leaf of the plant AND the minerals in the soil (from fertilizer that does NOT end up on the leaf).
As a result, the plant VERY quickly takes up the minerals from that fertilizer (either through the leaf or through the root system from the soil) and immediately transports those chelated minerals to metabolic sites within the plant’s cells.
Read more: http://guarding-our-earth.com/organic-fertilizer/organic-fertilizer/fulvic-acid-humic-acid-chelation/#ixzz4WAq7AL00
Follow us: @GreatOrganics on Twitter | GreatOrganics on Facebook
im4satori
Well-Known Member
for these reasons you might be better off not using humic acid except in organic mediums where it can naturally decompose
fulvic acid might be a better choice if you want to add organic additives to your hydro style grow
personally I prefer to spray the organic additives;
amino acids, kelp, fulvic acid rather than add them to my reservoir
in my experience (and many don't agree) my reservoir stays cleaner without them
fulvic acid might be a better choice if you want to add organic additives to your hydro style grow
personally I prefer to spray the organic additives;
amino acids, kelp, fulvic acid rather than add them to my reservoir
in my experience (and many don't agree) my reservoir stays cleaner without them
im4satori
Well-Known Member
if you've got a drip feed itll clog shit up
put a filter on it to keep the emitters from clogging but the filter has to be cleaned frequently
I look for nutes that are as clear as possible so when there added to the reservoir the water/solution in the reservoir looks clear enough you would think it was ok to drink
but again these are my opinions based on my experience
many people claim to have good success using organics in hydro set ups and using inorganic mediums
for me to reconsider using organics in my set up id have to stop drip feeding and switch my medium to coco or soil
put a filter on it to keep the emitters from clogging but the filter has to be cleaned frequently
I look for nutes that are as clear as possible so when there added to the reservoir the water/solution in the reservoir looks clear enough you would think it was ok to drink
but again these are my opinions based on my experience
many people claim to have good success using organics in hydro set ups and using inorganic mediums
for me to reconsider using organics in my set up id have to stop drip feeding and switch my medium to coco or soil
Jonstipated
Well-Known Member
Thanks a lot for taking the time to give me such a detailed reply. I'm going to follow your advice.
sammy2
Well-Known Member
im4satori
Well-Known Member
it doesn't tell youHere you go dude.
it must be in there cuz it is listed in the derived from
so that makes me less concerned but its still should be listed as a % amount
im4satori
Well-Known Member
using the maxibloom alone is entirely too much P
and extremely low in N
if your in soil you could squeak buy with it by over feeding (around 10 grams per gallon every other watering) and leaching with plain water every other and letting the soil buffer.......
it does have good amounts of calcium and magnesium which is nice to see but he P is just too high
theres far too many better options
the high P would likely create an iron lock out with yellowing on the tops of the new growth and ann early N def yellowing leaves at the bottom prematurely
the appropriate amount would be something between 5grams and 6 grams per gallon if you want to stick with it
and extremely low in N
if your in soil you could squeak buy with it by over feeding (around 10 grams per gallon every other watering) and leaching with plain water every other and letting the soil buffer.......
it does have good amounts of calcium and magnesium which is nice to see but he P is just too high
theres far too many better options
the high P would likely create an iron lock out with yellowing on the tops of the new growth and ann early N def yellowing leaves at the bottom prematurely
the appropriate amount would be something between 5grams and 6 grams per gallon if you want to stick with it
sammy2
Well-Known Member
No, wrong on both examples, there are many very successful k.i.s.s grows on maxibloom.
https://www.icmag.com/ic/showthread.php?t=191645
https://www.icmag.com/ic/showthread.php?t=191645
im4satori
Well-Known Member
if your happy, then im happy for you