DIY with Quantum Boards

qballizhere

Well-Known Member
regarding the budget i wouldn't want to spend 2x the money for an extra 5%-7% performance when it comes to chip prices. (depending on the price gap between a full QB setup and a cob setup could be the deciding factor and that's part of the reason why i'm here right now to find out which would be the better option for my 4x4 tent)
apart from this restriction the light should be sufficient to grow excellent yields if the nuts,temp,humidity,training, etc is done right. as far as i know both capable in doing that.
the grow will be in a tent. this project is new and purchases will be made when the plan is together so when you ask me if will i have any height limitations? my answer is probably. i will stick to indica dominant strains and train to keep them short if necessary. i think cob fixtures aren't that much bigger than QBs. a few inch is easier to get around than price or performance so those are my two main worries at the moment
The price difference between qb and cobs depends on the exact cob family you want to use.
Im not going to work out the price differences for you but a few suggestions on cobs are all for a 4x4 all @1.4A
12 citizen 1212 = 8 citizen 1818 or 8 Luminus cxm22 = 12 vero 29 or
4QB 2 hlg-240-2100 divers
 

zzerg85

Member
The price difference between qb and cobs depends on the exact cob family you want to use.
Im not going to work out the price differences for you but a few suggestions on cobs are all for a 4x4 all @1.4A
12 citizen 1212 = 8 citizen 1818 or 8 Luminus cxm22 = 12 vero 29 or
4QB 2 hlg-240-2100 divers
exactly what i was looking for mate. thanks i work out the rest.
one more thing
would 6 QB be an overkill for a 4x4 tent?
 

qballizhere

Well-Known Member
exactly what i was looking for mate. thanks i work out the rest.
one more thing
would 6 QB be an overkill for a 4x4 tent?
Depends on how hard they are driven
I would stick with 4QB and 2 slate 2 heat sinks 2 divers @2.1A that is about $600 for a 4x4 light
 

shadow_moose

Well-Known Member
quick question i'm looking to go full diy and etch my own QB but instead of 304 led's i'm thinking about using 100 led's in 10 parallel series of 10. that's for two reasons.
1. mean well drivers in argentina are stupid expensive (the same for QB)
2. i can't get led drivers that go higher than 50v.
what do you think about the chances for thermal runaway? i have already designed the footprint and the circuit but before i go and spend money i want to be sure it will work.
Who's doing your reflow soldering?
 

zzerg85

Member
The price difference between qb and cobs depends on the exact cob family you want to use.
Im not going to work out the price differences for you but a few suggestions on cobs are all for a 4x4 all @1.4A
12 citizen 1212 = 8 citizen 1818 or 8 Luminus cxm22 = 12 vero 29 or
4QB 2 hlg-240-2100 divers
would the 2x hlg-240-2100 drivers be better than the ones recommended by the webshop -> hlg-240-c1050a ?
would the 2100 need additional fan if i want to drive the boards harder? and one last question and i promise i go away :D
in the webshop they have a lot of spectrums for the boards only the 3000k voltage binned ones are available. are they the ones i need ? not really sure what voltage binned means to be honest.a simple yes or no will do as answer.
as soon as someone clears this up i'm pressing on chekout, i just dont want to rush it since i don't know enough
 
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garyocampo

Active Member
just in case anyone is wondering and to avoid any conflict.
if i buy a qb for 75usd ill have to pay 40usd for shipping plus a 50%tax so
75+40+37.5=152.5usd
1 usd =16 ars
152.2usd = 2440ars
meanwell hlg-80h-c700a=1318ars
a grand total of 3658ars
or 234,875usd
just in case.
 

shadow_moose

Well-Known Member
load a few podcasts and just go at it.
Just not feasible for anything other than micro. I guess if you're building like one board, but once you get down to covering larger spaces you'd be looking at placing 10k diodes by hand. At that point I will gladly pay a fabricator a small fee to save me the many hours it would take me to do it manually. I guess it's a matter of priorities and if you're living in Argentina, maybe you don't value your time at quite the same dollar per hour value I might.
 

garyocampo

Active Member
Just not feasible for anything other than micro. I guess if you're building like one board, but once you get down to covering larger spaces you'd be looking at placing 10k diodes by hand. At that point I will gladly pay a fabricator a small fee to save me the many hours it would take me to do it manually. I guess it's a matter of priorities and if you're living in Argentina, maybe you don't value your time at quite the same dollar per hour value I might.
ehmm actually i think i do, but i already do this sort of thing as a hobby(?
never at this scale though.
my growspace is 80cm x 80cm so 2 boards won't take me long. maybe a rainy sunday afternoon
 

qballizhere

Well-Known Member
would the 2x hlg-240-2100 drivers be better than the ones recommended by the webshop -> hlg-240-c1050a ?
would the 2100 need additional fan if i want to drive the boards harder? and one last question and i promise i go away :D
in the webshop they have a lot of spectrums for the boards only the 3000k voltage binned ones are available. are they the ones i need ? not really sure what voltage binned means to be honest.a simple yes or no will do as answer.
as soon as someone clears this up i'm pressing on chekout, i just dont want to rush it since i don't know enough
With the 1050a driver your running them at 500ma each with the 2100ma you are running them at 1A each that is 2 boards per driver the fan in the room for the plants will be good to help cool the heat sink. The 3000k is fine for veg and flower
 

zzerg85

Member
With the 1050a driver your running them at 500ma each with the 2100ma you are running them at 1A each that is 2 boards per driver the fan in the room for the plants will be good to help cool the heat sink. The 3000k is fine for veg and flower
thank you very much, have a nice yield xx
 

SamRouch

Active Member
Greetings,
First post ever from a lurker needing to learn more than to speak. After following this thread bought 4 boards and slate 2's. I have questions but before that I must commend the NGL team. High response and follow through. Kudos.

I am trying to decide about drivers. Question 1; series Vs parallel. Many seem to wire in series. My concern is higher voltage when the same power can be achieved with lower voltage and higher current in parallel. Comments? Question 2; Meanwell A Vs B. Many recommendations are for the A but dimming strikes me as a desirable feature. Thoughts on the trade-offs?

Thanks to all.
 

MMJ Dreaming 99

Well-Known Member
kicked off a build this weekend with the QBs. I got all of the metal fab/machining done. I'm damn tempted to have the mounting panel anodized, if I can find a company that won't rape me. $
Components:
6 x quantum boards 3000K :NGL @933ma
16 x Cree xp-g3 (3up) 4000k 90CRI top bins: Cutter, up to 1400ma capable (3up boards are around 9 vF)
24 x asst cree xpe , mostly the xpe HE 660nm (XPEEPR-L1-0000-00C01) tippy top flux bin
2 x 24 T5HO uvb from HTG supply
2 x hlg320h-c2800b (runs 3 boards in parallel @ 933ma per board)
1 x hlg185h-c1400b (for xpg3 which max at 2000ma)
other components TBD.
View attachment 3894598

Dude - I watched one of your recent videos with a killer rig you built. I thought I remember you saying you were hitting the plants with too much light. Do you think this one might be a problem? I guess you can just raise the rig a few inches off the plant. I can't wait to see your new QB beast.
 
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Stephenj37826

Well-Known Member
With the 1050a driver your running them at 500ma each with the 2100ma you are running them at 1A each that is 2 boards per driver the fan in the room for the plants will be good to help cool the heat sink. The 3000k is fine for veg and flower
Actually they both will run the same or board 1050/2100. The only difference will be wiring. The 1050 you'll want to run 2 boards in series and the 2100 you'll run them in parallel.

I say go with the 1050 as if you add 2 boards later you won't have to worry about voltage bin as much as you can put one of the boards you have now in series with the future purchased board. Then run another parallel string the same way.

With 2100 they will all be in parallel so they would all need to match.
 

Stephenj37826

Well-Known Member
Greetings,
First post ever from a lurker needing to learn more than to speak. After following this thread bought 4 boards and slate 2's. I have questions but before that I must commend the NGL team. High response and follow through. Kudos.

I am trying to decide about drivers. Question 1; series Vs parallel. Many seem to wire in series. My concern is higher voltage when the same power can be achieved with lower voltage and higher current in parallel. Comments? Question 2; Meanwell A Vs B. Many recommendations are for the A but dimming strikes me as a desirable feature. Thoughts on the trade-offs?

Thanks to all.
I like series wiring....... A type is dimmable as well. It has a built in dimming screw on top. B you have to add a remote dimmer (usually a potentiometer).
 
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