...All Things Vero...
- Thread starter AquariusPanta
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KonopCh
Well-Known Member
What's difference between 3500 and 3000? Veros have more red in them, right? Comparing with let's say Citizen.
Raging Stalk
Active Member
More blue for leafy plants like lettuce, more red for flowering and fruiting plants.
benchfrooser
Member
The red spectrum part is nearly the same in 3000k/3500k, a bit more energy is used in the blue part.
KonopCh
Well-Known Member
So better go with 3500 then. If reds are the same, but 3500 have more blue... why not then.
MightyGreen
Member
Vero 22 Gen7 C-Version is very cheap and seems to be soft driven very efficient. My question is regarding the Bridgeluxx Product Simulator and its results and how well they transition over to the real world. So when i feed a Vero 22 Gen7 C-Version 200mA can i expect to be (without driver losses) at ~80% electric efficiency (260Lumen/Watt as the simulator says) or is there somewhere a cap where the LED will just not get more efficient the lower i go with the current just darker (because the product data sheet goes only down to 500mA) ?
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I'm about to pull the trigger on my cobs (using V22s for $14, unless there's evidence not to) and was wondering if yall could give me some CRI/PARw advice.
2 tents, one 4x2x6 for veg and 60"x31"x84" for flower. 3 plants DWC each tent, rooting clones in a top fed 12gal tote . I will be making separate lights for flower and veg, so if advice could be tailored in that manner it would be awesome!
Veg: 2 bars ~36" long with 3 cobs each. (3500k 90cri) (5000k 70cri) (3500k 90cri) @ 700ma. ~184PARw, 16.11PARw/sq.ft. Overkill for veg in a 4x2?
I already have the 5000k 70cri chips, and this being a veg ONLY light would I be better off with 3000k 90cri or 3500k 90cri? I'm going to have my entire flower period to veg these ladies.
Flower: 3 bars ~24" on top of each plant, 3 cobs each. (3000k 90cri) (4000k 80cri) (3000k 90cri) @1400ma: 334.2PARw or 25.7 PARw/sq.ft @1050ma: 275.2PARw, 21.7PARw/sq.ft.
Debating whether 1400ma is worth it or if my yield would suffer tremendously from going with 1050ma. I'm running the 4000k instead of another 90cri 3000k to give a little density/frostiness to the nugs. I think my PPFD is at a point where focusing on the best spectrum will give me better returns than chasing after lumens in flower. The shorter flower time people report with 3000k 90cri is damn attractive as well. Spacing inside this tent is also going to be interesting; I don't think I could run these 3 52v COB bars @ 1400ma above each plant and not avoid hotspots. A better arrangement would be killer!
Feel free to criticize the hell out of me, I've decided on this build based solely on a few dozen hours scouring forums!
2 tents, one 4x2x6 for veg and 60"x31"x84" for flower. 3 plants DWC each tent, rooting clones in a top fed 12gal tote . I will be making separate lights for flower and veg, so if advice could be tailored in that manner it would be awesome!
Veg: 2 bars ~36" long with 3 cobs each. (3500k 90cri) (5000k 70cri) (3500k 90cri) @ 700ma. ~184PARw, 16.11PARw/sq.ft. Overkill for veg in a 4x2?
I already have the 5000k 70cri chips, and this being a veg ONLY light would I be better off with 3000k 90cri or 3500k 90cri? I'm going to have my entire flower period to veg these ladies.
Flower: 3 bars ~24" on top of each plant, 3 cobs each. (3000k 90cri) (4000k 80cri) (3000k 90cri) @1400ma: 334.2PARw or 25.7 PARw/sq.ft @1050ma: 275.2PARw, 21.7PARw/sq.ft.
Debating whether 1400ma is worth it or if my yield would suffer tremendously from going with 1050ma. I'm running the 4000k instead of another 90cri 3000k to give a little density/frostiness to the nugs. I think my PPFD is at a point where focusing on the best spectrum will give me better returns than chasing after lumens in flower. The shorter flower time people report with 3000k 90cri is damn attractive as well. Spacing inside this tent is also going to be interesting; I don't think I could run these 3 52v COB bars @ 1400ma above each plant and not avoid hotspots. A better arrangement would be killer!
Feel free to criticize the hell out of me, I've decided on this build based solely on a few dozen hours scouring forums!
klx
Well-Known Member
If you have separate veg and flower rooms I would not go with the 3500k for veg. People use 3500k so they can veg and flower with same light. If it was me I would stick to 5000k or 6500k for veg to get tight inter nodal length.
Then for flower i would go for all 3000k/90cri as you will get more stretch and I have seen no evidence of 4000k giving more frost or density. 3000/90 crushes it in flower. If I was going to mix it up a bit I would be more tempted to add 2700k.
I would always for go for higher current because you can dim if you need to or add strings in parallel to reduce the current, add more cobs, increase par but pull the same at the wall.
IMHO.
Then for flower i would go for all 3000k/90cri as you will get more stretch and I have seen no evidence of 4000k giving more frost or density. 3000/90 crushes it in flower. If I was going to mix it up a bit I would be more tempted to add 2700k.
I would always for go for higher current because you can dim if you need to or add strings in parallel to reduce the current, add more cobs, increase par but pull the same at the wall.
IMHO.
JavaCo
Well-Known Member
That has to do with binning 72 means 7th gen 2 step binning 73 mean 3 step binning. More steps = better
RandomHero8913
Well-Known Member
From LEDjournal.com:
SDCM is an acronym which stands for Standard Deviation Color Matching- sometimes known as a “MacAdam ellipse”. A 1-step MacAdam ellipse defines a zone in the CIE 1931 2 deg (xy) color space within which the human eye cannot discern color difference. Most LEDs are binned at the four to seven step level, so you can often see color differences. The variable nature of the color produced by white light LEDs means a convenient metric for expressing the extent of color difference within a batch is the number of SDCM ellipses in the color space that the LEDs fall into. If the chromaticity coordinates of a set of LEDs all fall within 1 SDCM most people would fail to see any difference in the color. If the differences extend to a zone twice as big (2 SDCM) you will start to see a color difference. A 2-step MacAdam ellipse is better than a 3-set, and so on. The diagram illustrates a CIE color space diagram, where SDCM ellipses are shown at 10 times magnification.
SDCM is an acronym which stands for Standard Deviation Color Matching- sometimes known as a “MacAdam ellipse”. A 1-step MacAdam ellipse defines a zone in the CIE 1931 2 deg (xy) color space within which the human eye cannot discern color difference. Most LEDs are binned at the four to seven step level, so you can often see color differences. The variable nature of the color produced by white light LEDs means a convenient metric for expressing the extent of color difference within a batch is the number of SDCM ellipses in the color space that the LEDs fall into. If the chromaticity coordinates of a set of LEDs all fall within 1 SDCM most people would fail to see any difference in the color. If the differences extend to a zone twice as big (2 SDCM) you will start to see a color difference. A 2-step MacAdam ellipse is better than a 3-set, and so on. The diagram illustrates a CIE color space diagram, where SDCM ellipses are shown at 10 times magnification.
linky
Well-Known Member
So 2 step is better than 3 then lol?
RandomHero8913
Well-Known Member
Thanks Rahz, I just found this. This makes it looks like a higher step translates to a wider range given the same base K-temp. It only seems important if you're going for something like 3500k as a higher step would just bring it closer to the 3000k and 4000k range which you may or may not want.
But overall it seems likes its mostly for human eyes and a higher step means it would be easier for you to differentiate separate color whites based even though they are all the same K-temp.
SDCMCCT @ 3000KΔUV
1x ±30K ±0.0007
2x ±60K ±0.0010
4x ±100K ±0.00207
8x ±175K ±0.0060
But overall it seems likes its mostly for human eyes and a higher step means it would be easier for you to differentiate separate color whites based even though they are all the same K-temp.
SDCMCCT @ 3000KΔUV
1x ±30K ±0.0007
2x ±60K ±0.0010
4x ±100K ±0.00207
8x ±175K ±0.0060
benchfrooser
Member
Anyone have the spectrum from 3.5k and 4k 90 CRI Veros? A little bit of uncertainty is in the air. A live test between 3k and 3.5k would be nice.
That's what I thought too. I'm using 6 of them now(V22's gen7). 4-3K and 2-4K chips. If you're not using reflectors, then save the money and get these. I was able to run 6x50v chips off one HLG 320x1050ma driver. Just squeaks in on the voltage. I run them on an 8ft aluminum bar passively(with only circulation fans for cooling, none direct). At full brightness i'm getting ~85F temps at the heatsink.
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linky
Well-Known Member
I built one of the 2 flower lights I have parts for last night, 9 vero 29 gen 7 3000k 80 cri C version at 1050mah (~72 watts each) I took down one of my 1000 se hps and put this in its place. I was a little disappointed in the output compared to the 8 vero 29 gen 7 4000k D version at 2100mah (~72 watts each) over my 4 x 8 in veg.. those 8 cobs look so bright, like looking into the sun, maybe its the 3000k compared to the 4000k, the 4000ks just look much brighter. My 12 cree 3590 3500k at 50 watts each fixtures that are in my flower room look brighter as well.. again, maybe its the color temp that is fooling my eyes, these 3000ks do look yellow, reminds me of hps a little, nothing like the 3500k cree 3590's or the 4000k vero 29's which are a nice white looking light.
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