Vnsmkr
Well-Known Member
Yeah thats a ripoff mate. I cant get that shit here, but even if I could, I couldnt afford it. Too many products out there like that....
4000w 16 plant grow
- Thread starter Afgan King
- Start date
Afgan King
Well-Known Member
Eh I mean partner buys that will use it in one run but also will grow 30+lbs with that same 10L bottle. Not that bad lol
Flowki
Well-Known Member
forgive me if this is a thread hijack I will remove the post and put up a separate one if so.
I have a lot of question in regard to the use of hay and hoping you can clear things up. If you or anybody else have the time to answer each question would really appreciate it.
Questions relating to coco
1: You use hay as a mulch, I have to ask if you think the micro have enough time to break down enough of that hay for it to be of nutrient benefit (moisture pros aside). On top of that, in use with the extreme myko product, my understanding is this type of mico involved require root contact. I read that certain micro biology can actually create a ''pathway'' to the top mulch and then traffic broken down materiel back to the heard, kinda like ants. Can the bio in the myko product do this also?.
2: As I've read hay is a brown type to release carbon and requires N to make it work. If you were to mix a little hay into the coco (say 5% total volume) you could rob the plant of N while ''possibly'' making the coco too physically hot for roots. Could the N issue be countered some what by adding a small amount of N product also, like used coffee grounds?. Sounds like it is more unknowns and risk than is worth but thought I'd ask.
3: Could it be easier instead to make a myko production tea that uses hay, live enzymes and ofc the myko?. The thought being that a lot less myko product would be required as you could culture a lot of it yourself. The enyme would break down the hay faster giving more food for the myko (my poorly educated assumption). Is the hay alone enough to allow this process or would one be looking to add a small amount of N, used coffee grounds comes to mind again. As it is coco, the thought process is to use as little organic product as possible to keep the water clean (still using a stocking) as to not eventually plug up the coco. But then again if the root mass is full of biology that should not happen?. Do you think that this type of micro that require root contact would actually be able to multiply and survive in a tea brew with ought roots?.
I know that many people will mix the myko in with normal nutrient solution but I find myself unable to have confidence in this. By all I've read they don't like a lot of P but it is in the base along with PH down. And one does not know what other reaction in such fertilizers may occur. Have you ever seen a lab test of the biology count before and after being added to such a solution?.
4: A bio based pond enzyme one can pick up from a pet store etc is reported to have much the same ingredient as canazyme at a far cheaper price, not sure if that info is still valid, thoughts?.
5: A final mostly unrelated question. You can buy rather cheap tablets/solution from pet stores that will remove chlorine/chloromine and heavy metals, copper/iron etc. Do you have a better understanding on using this to get a better tea brew water?. I've read that mico biology is a lot more resistant to small amounts of ch/s than first thought. Alternatively could one simply add in a few mill of the very cheap bio pond cleaner first so that any reaction to the chlorine falls upon them?, little cannon fodder so to speak.
I have a lot of question in regard to the use of hay and hoping you can clear things up. If you or anybody else have the time to answer each question would really appreciate it.
Questions relating to coco
1: You use hay as a mulch, I have to ask if you think the micro have enough time to break down enough of that hay for it to be of nutrient benefit (moisture pros aside). On top of that, in use with the extreme myko product, my understanding is this type of mico involved require root contact. I read that certain micro biology can actually create a ''pathway'' to the top mulch and then traffic broken down materiel back to the heard, kinda like ants. Can the bio in the myko product do this also?.
2: As I've read hay is a brown type to release carbon and requires N to make it work. If you were to mix a little hay into the coco (say 5% total volume) you could rob the plant of N while ''possibly'' making the coco too physically hot for roots. Could the N issue be countered some what by adding a small amount of N product also, like used coffee grounds?. Sounds like it is more unknowns and risk than is worth but thought I'd ask.
3: Could it be easier instead to make a myko production tea that uses hay, live enzymes and ofc the myko?. The thought being that a lot less myko product would be required as you could culture a lot of it yourself. The enyme would break down the hay faster giving more food for the myko (my poorly educated assumption). Is the hay alone enough to allow this process or would one be looking to add a small amount of N, used coffee grounds comes to mind again. As it is coco, the thought process is to use as little organic product as possible to keep the water clean (still using a stocking) as to not eventually plug up the coco. But then again if the root mass is full of biology that should not happen?. Do you think that this type of micro that require root contact would actually be able to multiply and survive in a tea brew with ought roots?.
I know that many people will mix the myko in with normal nutrient solution but I find myself unable to have confidence in this. By all I've read they don't like a lot of P but it is in the base along with PH down. And one does not know what other reaction in such fertilizers may occur. Have you ever seen a lab test of the biology count before and after being added to such a solution?.
4: A bio based pond enzyme one can pick up from a pet store etc is reported to have much the same ingredient as canazyme at a far cheaper price, not sure if that info is still valid, thoughts?.
5: A final mostly unrelated question. You can buy rather cheap tablets/solution from pet stores that will remove chlorine/chloromine and heavy metals, copper/iron etc. Do you have a better understanding on using this to get a better tea brew water?. I've read that mico biology is a lot more resistant to small amounts of ch/s than first thought. Alternatively could one simply add in a few mill of the very cheap bio pond cleaner first so that any reaction to the chlorine falls upon them?, little cannon fodder so to speak.
Afgan King
Well-Known Member
Soooo been a minute but here's the current room day 12 gonna be a real full house this time 
ttystikk
Well-Known Member
Hey bro, looks like you've been busy!
Afgan King
Well-Known Member
Good to see you back brother. Garden on point as usual that room will be full for sure LOL
Yup been slammed but in a good way. Been tight lately from business slowing down but overall good and rooms on point gonna be biggest plants I've had in here
Odin*
Well-Known Member
@Afgan King You mentioned being "tight", so I'm going to offer my "outside" perspective, "necessity" may be clouding your judgement.
"Biggest plants", they are going to require a lot more space to finish properly, but it looks like you have quite a few more in there than usual. This compromises proper spacing, especially with your largest group of plants to date. Counting those chickens before they've hatched, "more will equal more" mindset, can/will lead to mistakes.
It will be painful to do so, but I'm suggesting that you cull enough of those to allow for the same spacing that you usually work with, at the very least. You might be surprised with just how much "expansion" takes place with larger plants, significantly larger "footprint", they can get unruly. Crowding will lower yield and quality, not what you are looking to achieve here.
Wouldn't want you having a "bad run", is all.
"Biggest plants", they are going to require a lot more space to finish properly, but it looks like you have quite a few more in there than usual. This compromises proper spacing, especially with your largest group of plants to date. Counting those chickens before they've hatched, "more will equal more" mindset, can/will lead to mistakes.
It will be painful to do so, but I'm suggesting that you cull enough of those to allow for the same spacing that you usually work with, at the very least. You might be surprised with just how much "expansion" takes place with larger plants, significantly larger "footprint", they can get unruly. Crowding will lower yield and quality, not what you are looking to achieve here.
Wouldn't want you having a "bad run", is all.
I think I'm in the Same position to many plants. Not enough space. Would adding lighting make it betteror is it the over crowding part
714steadyeddie
Well-Known Member
Them bitches need space to do their thing
Afgan King
Well-Known Member
Honestly I don't think they're too big I have great airflow everything is hitting good everything is staked and has still some room to fill in. For the first time I think I will not have a single space in the whole 8'x12' canopy that will not have a bud site. If this one doesn't go right I'll cut back to 16 again instead of 20 but I feel like I finally have it perfect. The last run in this room was light but I had ran a 14 day veg not 21 in 7 gals did a total of 39 day veg. I just ran a 21 and they look better. I think I finally got it I redid all my ducting I'm holding 1400ppm no problem at all. Came out to 1.58 a light and with cornbread og which is a light yielding strain. I got first round vigor and a lot of heavy hitters for breeding
Afgan King
Well-Known Member
Everyone happy and filling out think I finally found the perfect veg time and # of plants for this room. Finally before this run moved the front light back a little because I feel like half the light was being wasted but everyone happy thick stems looking good day 15
714steadyeddie
Well-Known Member
How do you handle making and mixing all the food for those beautiful ladies
Afgan King
Well-Known Member
Have a 60g barrel. All get same nutes never an issue in my system. Everything in this room is getting the same feed mix every third day have a 1/2hp pump plants are fed between 18-25 seconds but besides different physical amounts of feed they all just at at 1650ppm yesterday so ec 3.3. even my purple drank and Grandpa Larry in 2 gal pots got same feed. Never an issue it's why I run this system I can breed and run 1000's of different phenos and strains and I've never had one burn more than just enough to show we're pushing her
ttystikk
Well-Known Member
I can vouch for this; the hotter I run my nutes in Tupur the better the girls like them!
714steadyeddie
Well-Known Member
Great stuff man. Thanks. I have some big plans coming hopefully get something in writing in 6 months. What ever you're doing keep it up lol
Afgan King
Well-Known Member
Nice and ya this schedule is on point. I've modified it run a lil organics with it and my partner who's like a mentor just had me get him everything I been using cuz he saw the quality improvement and no harmful chemicals and fell in love as well. Any time you want my schedule buddy you got it. You been a hell of a tester it's least I can do if you ever want it
Odin*
Well-Known Member
@Afgan King Only went from 16 to 20 plants, that ain't so bad. Hopefully they don't "blow up" on you. Cheers to another stellar run. 