HLG Quantum board "Megaforce" sog grow

NapalmD

Well-Known Member
Day 64
Lights out for the long kiss goodnight.
Psyched to get these babies over my silkscreens!
The Quantums crushed these girls into submission! Only thing I'll do different next time is back off with the lights a bit and keep them a little higher.
Some pics from a few hours ago.

20170319_135018.jpg 20170319_134959.jpg 20170319_134940.jpg 20170319_134920.jpg
 

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Randomblame

Well-Known Member
I bought some 5k resistors just incase, But I never see anyone use them in the instructional videos that are out there. It made me wonder if there is something that limits the dimming function in the driver already ? I'm new to building leds so i'm not an expert on drivers or anything. This will be my first build of any light that doesn't have a bulb lol.
You need only a real 100k poti and you can only dim between 10% and 100%. No additional resistor needed! Sreenies and pdf below.

@NapalmD
Really well done! This boards does a good job, as well as you. Girls look really happy to me, wish I could take a deep breath of the smell, lol!
BTW,UV-C pond clearer T5 as handheld.jpg
Have an 8w UVC pond clearing T5 to kill boyitritis spores. A few seconds of irradiation from all sides is enough. Use them like the hand-held metal detectors at the airport control. Stroke once from top to bottom from both sides and no spores will survive. Also very suitable for disinfection purposes and they are cheap, less than 10$.
 

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pop22

Well-Known Member
Interesting, thank you!

You need only a real 100k poti and you can only dim between 10% and 100%. No additional resistor needed! Sreenies and pdf below.

@NapalmD
Really well done! This boards does a good job, as well as you. Girls look really happy to me, wish I could take a deep breath of the smell, lol!
BTW,View attachment 3910317
Have an 8w UVC pond clearing T5 to kill boyitritis spores. A few seconds of irradiation from all sides is enough. Use them like the hand-held metal detectors at the airport control. Stroke once from top to bottom from both sides and no spores will survive. Also very suitable for disinfection purposes and they are cheap, less than 10$.
 

Eon1

Active Member
You need only a real 100k poti and you can only dim between 10% and 100%. No additional resistor needed! Sreenies and pdf below.

@NapalmD
Really well done! This boards does a good job, as well as you. Girls look really happy to me, wish I could take a deep breath of the smell, lol!
BTW,View attachment 3910317
Have an 8w UVC pond clearing T5 to kill boyitritis spores. A few seconds of irradiation from all sides is enough. Use them like the hand-held metal detectors at the airport control. Stroke once from top to bottom from both sides and no spores will survive. Also very suitable for disinfection purposes and they are cheap, less than 10$.

I read some where that uv light can kill the smell in your plants. I always knew it was a good disinfectant I use to use one in my aquarium tubing. I'm not sure if uvC that kills the smell though? Has anyone else heard/read this ?
 

NapalmD

Well-Known Member
You need only a real 100k poti and you can only dim between 10% and 100%. No additional resistor needed! Sreenies and pdf below.

@NapalmD
Really well done! This boards does a good job, as well as you. Girls look really happy to me, wish I could take a deep breath of the smell, lol!
BTW,View attachment 3910317
Have an 8w UVC pond clearing T5 to kill boyitritis spores. A few seconds of irradiation from all sides is enough. Use them like the hand-held metal detectors at the airport control. Stroke once from top to bottom from both sides and no spores will survive. Also very suitable for disinfection purposes and they are cheap, less than 10$.
Thanks! That uvc light sounds like a plan. Better safe than sorry. Where did you get that one?
 

nogod_

Well-Known Member
In my understanding UV does very little to microbes unless the exposure is prolonged (not waving a wand over something or water flowing through a pipe).

It is unlikely that waving a light over a plant is going to kill mold spores or mildew unless you can ensure every surface of every leaf is exposed (you cant). Similarly, it is unlikely that UV light is treating the water in your pipes unless the entire volume of water is batch-processed in a tank rather than on-demand through the pipe.
 

Danielson999

Well-Known Member
Copy and pasted from another site.

Ultraviolt light (UV) occurs from the sun. The wavelength of UV is outside of our visible range. The lowest wavelength colour we can see is violet, hence the name for light with a wavelength lower than this is ultraviolet.

UV ranges from 100 nanometres to 400nm. UV is further divided into UV-A, UV-B and UV-C.
UV-C: ranges from 100nm – 280nm (germicidal)
UV-B: ranges from 280nm- 315nm (sunburn)
UV-A: ranges from 315nm – 400nm (blacklight)

We here are interested in the UV-C rays, also known as „short wave ultraviolet radiation“. UV-C`s germicidal properties have been known since the 1930s. They are used in labratories in order to destroy bacteria, mould and viruses. UV-C rays are able to penetrate the outer membrane of microbes and stop them from reproducing. The specific wavelength of 253,7 nm is known to break the DNA of pathogens.

In May 2007, two Dutch inventors, Arne Aiking and Frank Verheijen were granted an International Patent on a method of treating live plants and mushrooms against pathogens with UV-C light. In the past UV-C had only been used to sterilise things like air and water. The difference with proposing to use UV-C to fight pathogens on living plants is that you shouldn`t use any more than is necessary, otherwise there is a risk to health of the plant.

Mr. Aiking and Verheijens invention is a mobile UV-C lamp that travels up and down in commercial greenhouses. The light intensity of a UV-C germicidal light bulb is usually expressed in a term called „microwatts per square centimetre“. Mr. Aiking and Verheijen suggest a range between 2,500 and 150,000 mircrowatts of UV-C energy over a given 24 hour period.

E.g. A 100 Watt UV-C lamp will output approximately 14,000 microwatts of energy over a square centimetre, in one second, from a distance of two centimetres away. If we leave it there for one minute we have to multiply that figure by 60. (840,000 microwatts). Look at the following chart:
1cm 21,000 µW/cm2 UV output
2cm 14,000 µW/cm²
3cm 10,000 µW/cm²
4cm 8,000 µW/cm²
5cm 6,700 µW/cm²

100cm 360 µW/cm²

This shows that a second`s exposure at 1cm distance is roughly equivalent to a full minute`s exposure 1 meter away (360 x 60 = 21. 600µW/cm²).

We use the UV-C light to fight against powdery mildew in our plantation. Tests have shown that powdery mildew is killed when given a dose of 1720 µW of UV-C per square cm. For exemple if I took a 100 Watt UV-C lamp and positioned it two centimetres away from the mildew, I would need to switch on the UV-C lamp for just 1/10 of a second to kill it.

Spider mites could possibly also be effectively treated with UV-C but with amounts that are hundreds of times more compared to something like powdery mildew. We therefore use it only against powdery mildew.

The safest way to use UV-C on plants appears to be regular, smaller doses rather than a single, lager hit. We therefore use the UV-C light every day for a short time. The pathogen must be hit directly with the UV-C rays in order to be affected. If it is protected by a leaf, the UV-C will not be effective, because UV-C will not penetrate through leaves.

WARNINGS:
UV-C light has an intense burning effect on human skin and can quickly damage your eyes.
Protect your eyes with special eyeglasses
Don`t expose your skin to UV-C rays
The wrong amount of UV-C will damage your plant
This topic is part of one of our next episodes on FlowerfieldTV. We have just started the treatment of our plants with UV-C rays. At the moment we also use sulphur, because we don`t run the risk of getting powdery mildew. After that stage will treat our plants exclusively with UV-C ray.

So in essence, this is saying that uv-c works great at killing PM and sounds like it would work best by using a handheld device or small light you can manipulate under and around your plant as to give the uv-c light the best exposure to the pathogens. Since it takes literally a second to kill the pathogens, long term use of uv-c is not necessary and will probably damage your plants. Powdery mildew requires around 1800 u watts of uvc to kill the spore. On an 11 watt uvc bulb that means a quick once over with the lamp will kill all spores the light falls on.
 
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Yodaweed

Well-Known Member
Copy and pasted from another site.

Ultraviolt light (UV) occurs from the sun. The wavelength of UV is outside of our visible range. The lowest wavelength colour we can see is violet, hence the name for light with a wavelength lower than this is ultraviolet.

UV ranges from 100 nanometres to 400nm. UV is further divided into UV-A, UV-B and UV-C.
UV-C: ranges from 100nm – 280nm (germicidal)
UV-B: ranges from 280nm- 315nm (sunburn)
UV-A: ranges from 315nm – 400nm (blacklight)

We here are interested in the UV-C rays, also known as „short wave ultraviolet radiation“. UV-C`s germicidal properties have been known since the 1930s. They are used in labratories in order to destroy bacteria, mould and viruses. UV-C rays are able to penetrate the outer membrane of microbes and stop them from reproducing. The specific wavelength of 253,7 nm is known to break the DNA of pathogens.

In May 2007, two Dutch inventors, Arne Aiking and Frank Verheijen were granted an International Patent on a method of treating live plants and mushrooms against pathogens with UV-C light. In the past UV-C had only been used to sterilise things like air and water. The difference with proposing to use UV-C to fight pathogens on living plants is that you shouldn`t use any more than is necessary, otherwise there is a risk to health of the plant.

Mr. Aiking and Verheijens invention is a mobile UV-C lamp that travels up and down in commercial greenhouses. The light intensity of a UV-C germicidal light bulb is usually expressed in a term called „microwatts per square centimetre“. Mr. Aiking and Verheijen suggest a range between 2,500 and 150,000 mircrowatts of UV-C energy over a given 24 hour period.

E.g. A 100 Watt UV-C lamp will output approximately 14,000 microwatts of energy over a square centimetre, in one second, from a distance of two centimetres away. If we leave it there for one minute we have to multiply that figure by 60. (840,000 microwatts). Look at the following chart:
1cm 21,000 µW/cm2 UV output
2cm 14,000 µW/cm²
3cm 10,000 µW/cm²
4cm 8,000 µW/cm²
5cm 6,700 µW/cm²

100cm 360 µW/cm²

This shows that a second`s exposure at 1cm distance is roughly equivalent to a full minute`s exposure 1 meter away (360 x 60 = 21. 600µW/cm²).

We use the UV-C light to fight against powdery mildew in our plantation. Tests have shown that powdery mildew is killed when given a dose of 1720 µW of UV-C per square cm. For exemple if I took a 100 Watt UV-C lamp and positioned it two centimetres away from the mildew, I would need to switch on the UV-C lamp for just 1/10 of a second to kill it.

Spider mites could possibly also be effectively treated with UV-C but with amounts that are hundreds of times more compared to something like powdery mildew. We therefore use it only against powdery mildew.

The safest way to use UV-C on plants appears to be regular, smaller doses rather than a single, lager hit. We therefore use the UV-C light every day for a short time. The pathogen must be hit directly with the UV-C rays in order to be affected. If it is protected by a leaf, the UV-C will not be effective, because UV-C will not penetrate through leaves.

WARNINGS:
UV-C light has an intense burning effect on human skin and can quickly damage your eyes.
Protect your eyes with special eyeglasses
Don`t expose your skin to UV-C rays
The wrong amount of UV-C will damage your plant
This topic is part of one of our next episodes on FlowerfieldTV. We have just started the treatment of our plants with UV-C rays. At the moment we also use sulphur, because we don`t run the risk of getting powdery mildew. After that stage will treat our plants exclusively with UV-C ray.

So in essence, this is saying that uv-c works great at killing PM and sounds like it would work best by using a handheld device or small light you can manipulate under and around your plant as to give the uv-c light the best exposure to the pathogens. Since it takes literally a second to kill the pathogens, long term use of uv-c is not necessary and will probably damage your plants.
If you are using a hand held UV-C light make sure you put on proper safety equipment, prolonged exposure is very harmful.
 

Danielson999

Well-Known Member
Yea safety is very important when using a strong UV-C light, i'd recommend using a welders mask and proper safety clothing.
I would rather spend an ounce of prevention instead of going through hell to remove PM from my grow. Obviously a small grower like me can just throw my plants out and start over but that would suck for people on time restraints or with many plants.
Getting rid of PM is great for the short term but until you address why you're getting it and fixing that problem then you're just going to be battling it constantly.
 

Yodaweed

Well-Known Member
I would rather spend an ounce of prevention instead of going through hell to remove PM from my grow. Obviously a small grower like me can just throw my plants out and start over but that would suck for people on time restraints or with many plants.
Getting rid of PM is great for the short term but until you address why you're getting it and fixing that problem then you're just going to be battling it constantly.
preach brother , gotta find the source of the evil ....
 

Eon1

Active Member
You need only a real 100k poti and you can only dim between 10% and 100%. No additional resistor needed! Sreenies and pdf below.

@NapalmD
Really well done! This boards does a good job, as well as you. Girls look really happy to me, wish I could take a deep breath of the smell, lol!
BTW,View attachment 3910317
Have an 8w UVC pond clearing T5 to kill boyitritis spores. A few seconds of irradiation from all sides is enough. Use them like the hand-held metal detectors at the airport control. Stroke once from top to bottom from both sides and no spores will survive. Also very suitable for disinfection purposes and they are cheap, less than 10$.

I just got my 100k ohm dimmer soldered it up with no resistor and it worked like a charm. No flickering or anything thanks for help.
 

Randomblame

Well-Known Member
Copy and pasted from another site.

Ultraviolt light (UV) occurs from the sun. The wavelength of UV is outside of our visible range. The lowest wavelength colour we can see is violet, hence the name for light with a wavelength lower than this is ultraviolet.

UV ranges from 100 nanometres to 400nm. UV is further divided into UV-A, UV-B and UV-C.
UV-C: ranges from 100nm – 280nm (germicidal)
UV-B: ranges from 280nm- 315nm (sunburn)
UV-A: ranges from 315nm – 400nm (blacklight)

We here are interested in the UV-C rays, also known as „short wave ultraviolet radiation“. UV-C`s germicidal properties have been known since the 1930s. They are used in labratories in order to destroy bacteria, mould and viruses. UV-C rays are able to penetrate the outer membrane of microbes and stop them from reproducing. The specific wavelength of 253,7 nm is known to break the DNA of pathogens.

In May 2007, two Dutch inventors, Arne Aiking and Frank Verheijen were granted an International Patent on a method of treating live plants and mushrooms against pathogens with UV-C light. In the past UV-C had only been used to sterilise things like air and water. The difference with proposing to use UV-C to fight pathogens on living plants is that you shouldn`t use any more than is necessary, otherwise there is a risk to health of the plant.

Mr. Aiking and Verheijens invention is a mobile UV-C lamp that travels up and down in commercial greenhouses. The light intensity of a UV-C germicidal light bulb is usually expressed in a term called „microwatts per square centimetre“. Mr. Aiking and Verheijen suggest a range between 2,500 and 150,000 mircrowatts of UV-C energy over a given 24 hour period.

E.g. A 100 Watt UV-C lamp will output approximately 14,000 microwatts of energy over a square centimetre, in one second, from a distance of two centimetres away. If we leave it there for one minute we have to multiply that figure by 60. (840,000 microwatts). Look at the following chart:
1cm 21,000 µW/cm2 UV output
2cm 14,000 µW/cm²
3cm 10,000 µW/cm²
4cm 8,000 µW/cm²
5cm 6,700 µW/cm²

100cm 360 µW/cm²

This shows that a second`s exposure at 1cm distance is roughly equivalent to a full minute`s exposure 1 meter away (360 x 60 = 21. 600µW/cm²).

We use the UV-C light to fight against powdery mildew in our plantation. Tests have shown that powdery mildew is killed when given a dose of 1720 µW of UV-C per square cm. For exemple if I took a 100 Watt UV-C lamp and positioned it two centimetres away from the mildew, I would need to switch on the UV-C lamp for just 1/10 of a second to kill it.

Spider mites could possibly also be effectively treated with UV-C but with amounts that are hundreds of times more compared to something like powdery mildew. We therefore use it only against powdery mildew.

The safest way to use UV-C on plants appears to be regular, smaller doses rather than a single, lager hit. We therefore use the UV-C light every day for a short time. The pathogen must be hit directly with the UV-C rays in order to be affected. If it is protected by a leaf, the UV-C will not be effective, because UV-C will not penetrate through leaves.

WARNINGS:
UV-C light has an intense burning effect on human skin and can quickly damage your eyes.
Protect your eyes with special eyeglasses
Don`t expose your skin to UV-C rays
The wrong amount of UV-C will damage your plant
This topic is part of one of our next episodes on FlowerfieldTV. We have just started the treatment of our plants with UV-C rays. At the moment we also use sulphur, because we don`t run the risk of getting powdery mildew. After that stage will treat our plants exclusively with UV-C ray.

So in essence, this is saying that uv-c works great at killing PM and sounds like it would work best by using a handheld device or small light you can manipulate under and around your plant as to give the uv-c light the best exposure to the pathogens. Since it takes literally a second to kill the pathogens, long term use of uv-c is not necessary and will probably damage your plants. Powdery mildew requires around 1800 u watts of uvc to kill the spore. On an 11 watt uvc bulb that means a quick once over with the lamp will kill all spores the light falls on.

Thanks Dainelson999
for this good summary even if it is just copied and inserted! I could not describe it better.
Yeah, UV-C is harmful and we should not look into the UV-C light(sunglasses wont work with uv-c), so I have converted a reflector desk lamp. Long-sleeved clothes are also important as well as gloves.
For me, a weekly short treatment is enough to eliminate patogens.
There is a professional handheld I have seen a few years ago, but that is very expensive (+$ 1000) and it has significantly more power. My 11w bulb handheld costs me 20 bucks total and is more than enough for small gardeners like most of us.
 

215Kush

Well-Known Member
What's up everybody! The Quantum boards from Horticulture Lighting Group have landed. Many thanks to @robincnn and @Stephenj37826 for making this possible. I dubbed these Megaforce.

I'll be doing a 10 plant sog grow with Underdog og clones that I just transplanted from the clone dome into 1 gallon pots filled with coco/perlite and gs2 grow stones.
Fed Jacks 321.5 plus Ful-power.
Will veg them 5 to 7 days then flip.

They're running at 110w now and I will probably max it out at 200w for the duration of the grow.

They are super light weight. So much so that my 2 interior fans, a 6" pole fan and Vornado fan have them bobbing around. Only been on about 2 hours but temps haven't budged yet.

Any technical questions, please refer to the DIY with Quantum boards thread here https://www.rollitup.org/t/diy-with-quantum-boards.927159/

These are available as stand alone boards to DIY or complete kits through Northern grow lights https://northerngrowlights.com/

Let the games begin!

View attachment 3869801 View attachment 3869802 View attachment 3869803
What's up everybody! The Quantum boards from Horticulture Lighting Group have landed. Many thanks to @robincnn and @Stephenj37826 for making this possible. I dubbed these Megaforce.

I'll be doing a 10 plant sog grow with Underdog og clones that I just transplanted from the clone dome into 1 gallon pots filled with coco/perlite and gs2 grow stones.
Fed Jacks 321.5 plus Ful-power.
Will veg them 5 to 7 days then flip.

They're running at 110w now and I will probably max it out at 200w for the duration of the grow.

They are super light weight. So much so that my 2 interior fans, a 6" pole fan and Vornado fan have them bobbing around. Only been on about 2 hours but temps haven't budged yet.

Any technical questions, please refer to the DIY with Quantum boards thread here https://www.rollitup.org/t/diy-with-quantum-boards.927159/

These are available as stand alone boards to DIY or complete kits through Northern grow lights https://northerngrowlights.com/

Let the games begin!

View attachment 3869801 View attachment 3869802 View attachment 3869803
Looks Great man! I have 4 QB's that I got a couple weeks ago. can ask you a question if you don't mind? What's height distance you used for the above picture? I'm doing a ScrOG like the one I just finished. do you have a recommended light distance for veg and flower? I'm in a 4x4 x4 QB's just hung it last night.
Btw:Your plants look Amazing! Some Big Colas you got going on! I'm just trying to find out the best distances. Thanks.

That's at over 50 inches from bottom I have 2 Femmed Aurora Indicia and a Bubblelicious that have been in veg about a month.
 

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