Yeah hey! Wow. I need to take a cross Canada trip with a few semis prepped with bagged up sealed pallets, and load up all the shops at the same time I guess. Im looking into freight rates up here and we can compare but I bet you're right, my grandpa had a train yard on his land and he still bought a few semi's and built a house for his truck drivers so they were right there, cant beat the rate when you're setting it yourself aka true cost! If I drive myself that would be the cheapest I guess. lol. Hey good thing I helped my brother get his class 1 maybe that will finally benefit me a bit, lol.Yeah being a factory fallout town, there's a lot of empty lots that used to be places where houses stood. They rent the lots for dirt cheap (my main lot is 2 and a half acres and costs me less than a 1000 watt ballast for a whole year). The only stipulation is that they must be used for urban agriculture purposes. Most people just do community gardens. I got a touch more creative
The most difficult thing is freight rates for bulk products. Like right now, it's more affordable for me to order bulk rice hulls through the local garden center, have them pay for shipping (Im assuming they have some deal set up because they're always getting stuff shipped?) and pay more per yard. Than it is for me to get a cheaper price per yard ordering directly from PBH but having to pay freight weights. Mostly because I have to get sooo much shipped to get that lower price per yard...but by the time you add the shipping costs...so my main advice...invest in some trucks lol. Like I'd love to buy all the composted bark you got, but the shipping rates for all that stuff would probably kill me!
Thanks brother glad to hear it healed from a far, thats awesome! Quite the crazy expression hey . Lucky for me the flavour and high are on par too, so its revegging successfully as we speak, very happy about that, the Pink Pheno of the Tight Dojo is living on to see another round! Will have to get it living in the fridge eventually, somehow if I can, would love this specimen to be avail via Tissue Culture so I could just keep it stashed until I wanted to run it for a taste!those pics last page just eliminated a headache. not kidding.
i have a pretty nice glove box, if i managed to get a sample i could keep her going. i have never done tissue culture but it seems fairly straight forward and am actually setting up a 7+ strain tissue propagation as well as my favorite garden plants and myco clones. gotta save some organism's lives.Thanks brother glad to hear it healed from a far, thats awesome! Quite the crazy expression hey . Lucky for me the flavour and high are on par too, so its revegging successfully as we speak, very happy about that, the Pink Pheno of the Tight Dojo is living on to see another round! Will have to get it living in the fridge eventually, somehow if I can, would love this specimen to be avail via Tissue Culture so I could just keep it stashed until I wanted to run it for a taste!
PBH is the brand riceland foods sell their rice hulls under! I'm not sure what the shipping rate for buildasoil is but I would definitely contact them and see if they'll give you a deal better than what's offered on their site.Yeah hey! Wow. I need to take a cross Canada trip with a few semis prepped with bagged up sealed pallets, and load up all the shops at the same time I guess. Im looking into freight rates up here and we can compare but I bet you're right, my grandpa had a train yard on his land and he still bought a few semi's and built a house for his truck drivers so they were right there, cant beat the rate when you're setting it yourself aka true cost! If I drive myself that would be the cheapest I guess. lol. Hey good thing I helped my brother get his class 1 maybe that will finally benefit me a bit, lol.
Whats the shipping from Build a soil by the way?
.. I see they have 1000 lb. totes for about $150 and I was gonna order one but they don't ship that to Canada !! And what is PBH bro if you don't mind. Forgive me but I'm still new to America mon, thanks in advance for all the replies too!!
From what I've read there are different levels of quality, but most mines are either in New Mexico or New Hampshire I can't remember. The sources used for fertilizer and animal feed are certifiable for organic production. And it's supposed to have a very low salt content. I apply the mineral pretty easily, and only every couple recycles just to be sure that salt build-up isn't excessive.Very cool explanation. So are there vastly different sources for Langbeinite or its all equal you would say? None of it is too salty for lack of a better word? Thanks man!!
Great idea but I was thinking for you! Although I guess PBH is the place to go for bulk rice hulls hey? they probably sell larger than 1000 lbs at a time hey, lol. I see they even do private label, imagine them Rasta hulls, that'd be the best brand of them for sure!PBH is the brand riceland foods sell their rice hulls under! I'm not sure what the shipping rate for buildasoil is but I would definitely contact them and see if they'll give you a deal better than what's offered on their site.
But yeah man if you had your own trucks that would be the real ticket man!
Haha yeah, I gotta work on a bit about how I want to give your garden crabs for my crab shell meal. But yea that's where I get my rice hulls from. Quality is solid! It's insane the amount of waste that gets generated by a quite a few different types of businesses. There's a lot of opportunity for those of us willing to take the time to spin shit into gold!Great idea but I was thinking for you! Although I guess PBH is the place to go for bulk rice hulls hey? they probably sell larger than 1000 lbs at a time hey, lol. I see they even do private label, imagine them Rasta hulls, that'd be the best brand of them for sure!
There's actually a mill nearby the plant that shut down in the whole region and there are lines of trucks on some roads for sale, just sitting there. Damn, my buddy actually lives on the same block of the owners of the company so im gonna get in touch with the owners as soon as the tests are back, which first one gets collected and sent tomorrow. We surveyed today and yesterday, looks to be land every covered in abandoned piles, the lumbar region here is about the size of Vancouver Island, its massive. And its not focussing on dotting every I and crossing every T, they just want to hit they're quotas per hour and keep flying at 100 miles per hour, no room or time for error or cleaning up and being non-wasteful lol
for half of the year i have access to huge amounts of lobster and mussel shells.i dont know where to start though. critter and odor control is a concernHaha yeah, I gotta work on a bit about how I want to give your garden crabs for my crab shell meal. But yea that's where I get my rice hulls from. Quality is solid! It's insane the amount of waste that gets generated by a quite a few different types of businesses. There's a lot of opportunity for those of us willing to take the time to spin shit into gold!
You lucky mother fucker!for half of the year i have access to huge amounts of lobster and mussel shells.i dont know where to start though. critter and odor control is a concern
ahh, well I suppose it al depends on your goals, I don't really do anything at all specific to the stages of the plant itself, the exception being coco and aloe teas that I only do during flowering.Truly a good idea man, for sure hey
the bosses wont let me bring grasses on to the site, I will need to haul some semi loads to the acreage in BC and get the grass delivered there, unless I'm renting land off of the company, just got word its an option, they do have a massive lumber yard with room to spare somehow. As soon as boss is back we will pick his brain, see whats the best feeling option is, he's just on holiday atm.
For you, do you like to mix all your composts together, with lots of greens, or do you like to keep some more wood based and fungal dom and lower in nitrogen for that finish in flower.. I know the plants like nitrogen all the way just less in the end but I was thinking of making a vegging compost and fruiting compost, having both inoculated and supported by bio char, but keeping the two separate from each other as well as separate from the bacterial vermicompost and anerobic composts as well (bokashi, BIM, Lactobacillus)
But at the same time no one probably builds more well rounded compost than you so I'd love your opinion!!
Thanks for breaking it down that helps paint a clearer pic for sure! How much do you like to add per cubit foot or per yard, if you may be so kind, Rasta!From what I've read there are different levels of quality, but most mines are either in New Mexico or New Hampshire I can't remember. The sources used for fertilizer and animal feed are certifiable for organic production. And it's supposed to have a very low salt content. I apply the mineral pretty easily, and only every couple recycles just to be sure that salt build-up isn't excessive.
I love how coco and aloe are big parts of your finish, how do you like to approach those two if you don't mind the side note, I personally love me some foliars in the first couple weeks of flower and veg if a long veg but very cool that you use some of the most sustainable, abundant, and cheapest, most natural things to help a natural herb finish.ahh, well I suppose it al depends on your goals, I don't really do anything at all specific to the stages of the plant itself, the exception being coco and aloe teas that I only do during flowering.
This makes a lot of perfect sense to me, I didn't come across properly, I work until exhausted most days, sorry, def should have clarified, my fam's soil (~3Mil cubic yards, is high N and perhaps great for vegging, as is? Yet for flowering I think its too rich in N, and could use a cut back and a balancing out to make it sing.... my goal with the compost is to sorta have virtually everything the plant needs and in varying availability rates, that way the soil is never deficient
that's why I reaaaally like the SLOW release nutrients.....
also if you are making a vegetative based compost it's gonna be LOADED with potassium, I think we sometimes forget how much of that is in a compost pile, but virtually ALL plant based compost inputs are high (relatively) in potassium.
grass, leaves, etc.
but I don't think theres an advantage to creating a fruiting and veging mix, primary reason I say that is, if you are giving the plants some room and are giving them a compost based soil, they simply don't have any deficiencies, that's sorta the allure of it all.
I love me some crab meal and insect meal too lol. I can't wait for my comfrey too. The borage started first so got lots of those leaves as top dress now. So you find using a combo of a bit more comfrey, kelp, alfalfa and neem is a more sustainable, careful, plant based sub for langbeiniete or for Potassium and a better ratio of cal and mag (that, and lower iron)? Or just any one, you personally prefer over? Happy to send you guys some beans for all your advising!You mentioned langbeinite, I've used it extensively, and it really is a great nutrient, the ONLY concern I have is it's lopsided potassium content, it's much quicker than a normal mineral input into the soil to be ready, and that can of course upset the cation balance.
Which seems, in my opinion anyways, to be a fairly important aspect to not forget.
I like to match the potassium inputs with cal and mag, an example is comfrey, kelp, alfalfa, neem meal even.
a good rule is the more plant-based nutrients for the cations as possible, or at least this is what I've noticed.
Just don't confuse that with vegan-grows, cuz i'm not really into that.
I like me some crab meal, insect meal..
Interesting interesting stuff Grease.. I was reading and watching this big organic youtube guys garden tour vids of other veggie gardens on how pure wood chip (2 to 3 years thermophilic process) compost and how just plain unamended fungal Dom compost improved the yields of their crops the next year, they grew serpent melons that were so big the had to be supported in multiple places, they were almost little anacondas, and all they did was all wood chip compost that year and saw a spike in flavour and yield. So this is very intruiging stuff to me. Luckily this place is so big they have piles that have been sitting for years and are already composted! Even big bark slabs, turned right into dirt, I gotta pull some pics up.. for texture !As far as the microbial content, the slower and "colder" the pile is, the more fungal growth, also a "leaner" carbon to nitrogen ratio does also, which in turn makes the composting much slower.
but with that much sawdust being it's gonna be fungal...
course you could richen up the greens and force it to go faster for a more even pile.
ahh yes, I have been very impressed with what comfrey brings to my grows, I have found it's the only thing I really add to my soils, and I really believe it may be the perfect nutrient.This makes a lot of perfect sense to me, I didn't come across properly, I work until exhausted most days, sorry, def should have clarified, my fam's soil (~3Mil cubic yards, is high N and perhaps great for vegging, as is? Yet for flowering I think its too rich in N, and could use a cut back and a balancing out to make it sing.
The compost, well that's like 100's of thousands of tonnes of a much more fungal Dom 100% wood based product, so yeah, that wouldn't make the best vegging mix eh
What I would love to do is make fully rounded glacial soil with all the composts full of life (anaerobic, bacterial and fungal, aka the bokashi, Lacto, etc and the worm and thermophilic) and have it all built for marijuana, have it be 5 to 10% biochar, but to raise money, enough to mix and amend (let alone transport) piles the size of big acreages that are 1800 km apart, I may need to raise sell sawdust as animal bedding, turn some into a bunch of bokashi, then yeah slab into bio char just by itself, and amended alpine fir flowering compost, as well as coloured mulch by itself.
I love me some crab meal and insect meal too lol. I can't wait for my comfrey too. The borage started first so got lots of those leaves as top dress now. So you find using a combo of a bit more comfrey, kelp, alfalfa and neem is a more sustainable, careful, plant based sub for langbeiniete or for Potassium and a better ratio of cal and mag (that, and lower iron)? Or just any one, you personally prefer over? Happy to send you guys some beans for all your advising!
Interesting interesting stuff Grease.. I was reading and watching this big organic youtube guys garden tour vids of other veggie gardens on how pure wood chip (2 to 3 years thermophilic process) compost and how just plain unamended fungal Dom compost improved the yields of their crops the next year, they grew serpent melons that were so big the had to be supported in multiple places, they were almost little anacondas, and all they did was all wood chip compost that year and saw a spike in flavour and yield. So this is very intruiging stuff to me. Luckily this place is so big they have piles that have been sitting for years and are already composted! Even big bark slabs, turned right into dirt, I gotta pull some pics up.. for texture !
Man, that was the best post ever, I love when you go all out, bro!ahh yes, I have been very impressed with what comfrey brings to my grows, I have found it's the only thing I really add to my soils, and I really believe it may be the perfect nutrient.
literally has everything, and at a carbon to nitrogen ratio that it practically melts on it's own, especially if you shred it and mix it with fresh castings as a topdress, absolutely the greatest stuff.
it works amazing
the more I am experimenting, the more I am realizing the subtle secrets to successful grows.
fresh humus, lots of aeration, cation balance (ratio), and slow release nutrients that were composted along with the pile.
granted fresh humus is SO much more than just that, the amazing CEC, the microbial diversity, humic acids, etc
but for me?
fresh compost and comfrey are must haves.
with my respects for neem meal, kelp meal and crab meal, but those you can get away without, especially if you are using comfrey and compost.
But comfrey and kelp do almost the same stuff... some of the growth hormones the comfrey is lacking though, cytokinins in particular are found in the cocowater and kelp
I have theories that dandelion root may be a good input for the soil for cytokinins too... also I imagine the micros from that would be great as well.
I've been pondering the idea of pulling a good 20 or so dandelion up from the ground, roots intact, and then shred those bad boys up for a green input on my pile.
problem is that I have enough finished compost to go till at least 2020 or so
and I feel compelled to make a new pile each year too... I have too many different things I want to experiment with in composting..
a "free" compost, with no money invested (grass, nettles, dandelion, comfrey, and leaves ONLY)
a plant based "vegan" compost, with karanja meal, alfalfa, and kelp
a mix based on manure
a mix based on peat as the carbon (interested to see how peat could further degrade)
a mix with NOTHING added past grass and leaves
an aforementioned fungal driven pile...
anyways, you see my dilemma?
oh well, this kid likes to play in the dirt a bit much...
I gotta move east and hang with @Rasta Roy and go play in his bigass compost piles or something
Basically a cup of each per cubic foot but correct me if I'm wrong please Greasei'm getting ready to mix soil for six new planters.im going off of coots mix.using goat compost and happy frog for the base.found a friend who has a bunch of comfrey im going to transplant(yes,its the invasive kind,lol) how much greensand per cf @greasemonkeymann ? any other tips on additional amendments that arent on coots mix?