The Dons' Organic Garden

greasemonkeymann

Well-Known Member
120 cups in a cubic foot so 10% is 12 cups I guess. 11.97
huh?
but that's 12 cups for a single cubic foot right?
never heard a 10% number in reference to nutrients before..
wait...
are you talkin about biochar?
now that stuff i love..
great shit to use, i have at least 10% in my mixes, if not more.
only problem that can arise is ph fluctuations if the biochar isn't rinsed, or nitrogen sequestering if it's not charged.
but either way, adding biochar to the compost pile is preferred to the soil mix, simply to establish a good amount of microbes and to let it naturally even itself out after it ages.
i mean that in reference to the nitrogen and ph.
I've also used it NOT in the compost as a soil additive, just gotta remember to charge it prior, and for that urine is the best
bloodmeal, bat guano, seabird guano, also work well too
fish meal would probably too.. albeit less than pleasant to smell..
anything that has a good amount of soluble nitrogen in it will work fine
 

greasemonkeymann

Well-Known Member
OH MAN I NEED THEM RICE HULLS SO BUMBLECLOT BAD!!

I love the progression dude, damn, how high of % are you gonna have to touch to keep it all gravy!?
well, i have nearly 40-50 % aeration as is, but its all different types, i have SO many types...
i admit it's a lil much, but i have everything in it
perlite, vermiculite, sand, pumice, volcanic rock, biochar, ricehulls, rotted tree log chunks (awesome in the summer)
strips of coco-wool (those kick ASS for developing mass amounts of white fuzzy happy roots)
all those are badass, and they do different things too, just like the nutrients, each input for the soil has a specific job, and i try and avoid any redundant soil additives, while at the same time trying to get slow, med and fast release forms of nearly everything the plant needs.
the key for aeration try and maintain the soil more in a "humid" state, rather than a dry and wet state.
they tend to like that, and i see much more root mass when that is accomplished.

anyways, i'm closing shop my man, gotta run
i'll be back tomorrow during biz hours
830 to 4 on pacific time
have a good night everyone
 

DonTesla

Well-Known Member
ahhh yet another experiment I am getting ready for.
and that is the subject or paramagnetism...
basalt, andesite, etc
now typically I am a lil nerdy about science and the like, I like to gather as much information as possible, research extensively and then I make an educated, well thought out, deliberate conclusion on it
so, in regards to paramagnetics.. I simply don't fully grasp it, I've read ALL about it, and the thing is it's not entirely understood on it's own
here is the site that I found the most helpful, it seemed to dumb it down a lil, all the stuff regarding molecular electron orbitals and dipoles, angular momentum and such, all that is above my head, and I sorta don't have an interest in learning more about it
BUT the relation of paramagnetics and ions.. that is intriguing to me.. and if a simple side by side can show any difference than i'm all over it, evidently it works even better in high-humus soils too.

http://www.naturesalternatives.com/lc/lcparamagnetism.html

but I am going to do a side by side on that in the VERY near future, it's the next experiment I am doing in fact
the whole thing is a lil "new-age'ish" for me... but considering the rudimentary understanding of a true natural living organic soil it's not out the realm of possibility that humans simply don't understand the relation to begin with..
I mean go google "humus" its vague as HELL, and google "microbes for organic growing"
there is just waaaay too much that we don't know, seem like after humans created chelated chemical salt based nutrients we sorta just kinda stopped trying to understand the organic aspects of it all
Oh man, dropping some good links now, shit son. I love trying to understand this crazy magnet stuff. I put a rock in the garden, Himalayan seasalt lamp and bing bang boom, biggest plant in the room.. read some good stuff about those crazy words you just mentioned and all I did was give my head a shake and buy some stones, that shit was confusing bro. you just kill the research while at work hey lmao
you gotta be the coolest mechanic in the dang world man

doing it up herbally and real proper
 

DonTesla

Well-Known Member
huh?
but that's 12 cups for a single cubic foot right?
never heard a 10% number in reference to nutrients before..
wait...
are you talkin about biochar?
now that stuff i love..
great shit to use, i have at least 10% in my mixes, if not more.
only problem that can arise is ph fluctuations if the biochar isn't rinsed, or nitrogen sequestering if it's not charged.
but either way, adding biochar to the compost pile is preferred to the soil mix, simply to establish a good amount of microbes and to let it naturally even itself out after it ages.
i mean that in reference to the nitrogen and ph.
I've also used it NOT in the compost as a soil additive, just gotta remember to charge it prior, and for that urine is the best
bloodmeal, bat guano, seabird guano, also work well too
fish meal would probably too.. albeit less than pleasant to smell..
anything that has a good amount of soluble nitrogen in it will work fine

not for nutrients, brotha, but like for bio char and for maybe oyster shells, but not flour.

and DE rocks too.
 

DonTesla

Well-Known Member
well, i have nearly 40-50 % aeration as is, but its all different types, i have SO many types...
i admit it's a lil much, but i have everything in it
perlite, vermiculite, sand, pumice, volcanic rock, biochar, ricehulls, rotted tree log chunks (awesome in the summer)
strips of coco-wool (those kick ASS for developing mass amounts of white fuzzy happy roots)
all those are badass, and they do different things too, just like the nutrients, each input for the soil has a specific job, and i try and avoid any redundant soil additives, while at the same time trying to get slow, med and fast release forms of nearly everything the plant needs.
the key for aeration try and maintain the soil more in a "humid" state, rather than a dry and wet state.
they tend to like that, and i see much more root mass when that is accomplished.

anyways, i'm closing shop my man, gotta run
i'll be back tomorrow during biz hours
830 to 4 on pacific time
have a good night everyone
Totally agree with the humidity thing and I like those percentages too actually, I went to 45% after you suggested actually and I like it and rep that amount...havent looked back and was just curious if 50 is possible or good, and seems you have found the way, mixing all composts into one, I always here of peoples worms going apeshit crazy in their compost piles..
interesting you see sand as aeration, but I guess it is, hey. that list just gets better and better and better and I can see the value in a diversified mix, I prefer at least 4 things as well, if not more.. 6 actually. 7 with those coco-wool strips, those sound amazing and I use coco so why not, but the young ones always have no skin so.. yeah sometimes I wish I was American but then I realize we all need these goodies in Canada more avail..

lava rock

bio char

sand

pumice

rice hulls

and rotting wood chunks

it'd be sick if we had those all mixed and made into a crazy aeration product, Don-Monkey's super arie Aeration

I wish I could buy that here. @Mr.Head wouldn't that rock?
 

Mr.Head

Well-Known Member
Totally agree with the humidity thing and I like those percentages too actually, I went to 45% after you suggested actually and I like it and rep that amount...havent looked back and was just curious if 50 is possible or good, and seems you have found the way, mixing all composts into one, I always here of peoples worms going apeshit crazy in their compost piles..
interesting you see sand as aeration, but I guess it is, hey. that list just gets better and better and better and I can see the value in a diversified mix, I prefer at least 4 things as well, if not more.. 6 actually. 7 with those coco-wool strips, those sound amazing and I use coco so why not, but the young ones always have no skin so.. yeah sometimes I wish I was American but then I realize we all need these goodies in Canada more avail..

lava rock

bio char

sand

pumice

rice hulls

and rotting wood chunks

it'd be sick if we had those all mixed and made into a crazy aeration product, Don-Monkey's super arie Aeration

I wish I could buy that here. @Mr.Head wouldn't that rock?
Word. We need better options. I ended up having to go with Promix Vermiculite as I can't find any good aeration ingredients locally.

I'm just a small time organic grower... it's hard to find things in small quantities that ships for a decent price even. Seems you have to order lots to make the shipping worth it and I have no storage for that sort of stuff.
 

Rasta Roy

Well-Known Member
Man, that was the best post ever, I love when you go all out, bro!

Definitely got me super inspired to go nuts with Comfrey! And to come and visit both you and Rasta sometime this year if that would be cool with you guys! @Rasta Roy

Cause yeah, I'm really liking how you're simplifying it and trying these blends out, I was gonna make soil the same way, just for myself to grow in different kinds, and to do that, I was gonna make different composts cause thats how I love to amend, once I tried it I had the best round ever, so expressive and so easy, all the way to the end. I had a buddy taint a bit of my soil with sand and water I didn't approve of and now I'm looking to make all fresh soil for I'm always looking for an excuse to! I love making a fresh batch every year, you and DP are like so funny, man.. wish we were all in the same spots! wish a bunch of us RIU'ers were all able to garden together a bit, that'd be so sick.. thank Jah for Riu though, talking itself is a blessin mon!
Fuck yeah you should come visit man! And I'm dying to go to Canada again soon what province are you in? It'd be awesome to come check out what you got going on! I could even bring my video team and we could do a video for the series im working on if you'd be interested!
 

greasemonkeymann

Well-Known Member
Totally agree with the humidity thing and I like those percentages too actually, I went to 45% after you suggested actually and I like it and rep that amount...havent looked back and was just curious if 50 is possible or good, and seems you have found the way, mixing all composts into one, I always here of peoples worms going apeshit crazy in their compost piles..
interesting you see sand as aeration, but I guess it is, hey. that list just gets better and better and better and I can see the value in a diversified mix, I prefer at least 4 things as well, if not more.. 6 actually. 7 with those coco-wool strips, those sound amazing and I use coco so why not, but the young ones always have no skin so.. yeah sometimes I wish I was American but then I realize we all need these goodies in Canada more avail..

lava rock

bio char

sand

pumice

rice hulls

and rotting wood chunks

it'd be sick if we had those all mixed and made into a crazy aeration product, Don-Monkey's super arie Aeration

I wish I could buy that here. @Mr.Head wouldn't that rock?
heh, yea, the thing with sand is granted it doesn't hold water, but it reaaally helps in drainage, and with all that organic material, humus, and such it has such a damn awesome CEC rate, but that does come with a downside, in that it'll hold and retain more water, so that warrants the need for more aeration.
in fact what i do, when i add castings to my plants is i gently scrape away all the surface of the existing container, as we all know over the course of time the aeration tends to "float", especially perlite, now i put the word "float" in parentheses because it doesn't float at all, it simply settles, just think goldpanning, with any soil agitation (watering) the heavier more dense material will settle as the lighter stuff "floats"
so anyways, when i do topdresses i scrape away all that mostly aeration and then match that at a 1/1 ratio with the castings.
along with the comfrey of course.
but as a rule i never add castings to a plant without adding equal amounts of aeration.
in regards to the coco strips... so what i do is buy the bag of coco plant liners, like the ones they have as bases for like boston ferns and whatnot.
get the bag of coco plant liners and throw them outside in the sun..
sounds funny but in about a couple months the sun, humidity, and weather will make it all fluff out, and loosen up, then you can cut it into smaller squares or strips, or you can simply start to pull lil wispy clumps of it off, those lil clumps are like springs, so in tiny clumps in your soil it tends to prevent any soil compaction.
Soil compacting in an organic mix will turn them anaerobic like overnight, and that is BAD for the plant, it's soil health, and the types of microbes present.
Not to mention anaerobic microbes tend to create toxic gasses as well, Byproducts include hydrogen sulfide which smells like rotten eggs, butyric acid which smells like vomit, ammonia which stingin your nose, and vinegary smell too... Anaerobic conditions foster pathogenic bacteria and kill off beneficial aerobic bacteria.
mmmmm yummy...

Anyways..

The reason i ever even started doing the coco strips thing was merely because i messed up on a plant container while trying to make additional drainage holes, and the bottom had a bigass chunk missing from the container, so i put a bit of chicken wire, and lined it with coco wool to keep the soil in it, anyways, that plant did damn well, better than it's cloned sisters in different pots, so after harvesting, i ALWAYS do a post harvest rootball inspection, and i have learned a LOT from doing this over the yrs, and in this case? I learned that a loose, humid pocket of coco wool and air in the soil makes massive, fuzzy, dense, happy looking white roots.
Annnd there we are, ever since then i have used it, and found that it may be the best thing for preventing soil compaction.
 
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greasemonkeymann

Well-Known Member
Word. We need better options. I ended up having to go with Promix Vermiculite as I can't find any good aeration ingredients locally.

I'm just a small time organic grower... it's hard to find things in small quantities that ships for a decent price even. Seems you have to order lots to make the shipping worth it and I have no storage for that sort of stuff.
no landscape lava rock?
or another awesome one is rotted tree log chunks...
just go take a forest hike and look for the oldest fallen log you can find, usually a critter has dug out the innards looking for grubs and such, but if you can crumble the tree log pieces in your hand, they are good to use..
i'm not too clear on the carbon content, but at that point of degradation i doubt it'd sequester any nitrogen but to be safe i always charged them similar to biochar.
wood chunks are reaaally handy in the summer as they hold a good amount of winter, i don't recommend them for inside winter grows though.
but outside, or inside summer grows they are great, and they dissolve into humus in about a yr or so
but a good landscaping store should have the lava rock, just get that and bust it all up
what i use to bust it up is weight plates, for like working out.
(standard one inch plates work best, rather than Olympic ones with 2")
i got a 25 lb plate, and a 5 lb one, the 25 as the base, and the 5 as the "hammer"
get a box the size of the plate (deeper works best to keep the flying chunks in the box), get a smaller plate, and then mash the rocks between them, some use pillow cases or what not but you'll tear the bejesus out of anything when you smash it... well except cast iron weight plates...
oh... wear eye protection..
 
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Mr.Head

Well-Known Member
no landscape lava rock?
or another awesome one is rotted tree log chunks...
just go take a forest hike and look for the oldest fallen log you can find, usually a critter has dug out the innards looking for grubs and such, but if you can crumble the tree log pieces in your hand, they are good to use..
i'm not too clear on the carbon content, but at that point of degradation i doubt it'd sequester any nitrogen but to be safe i always charged them similar to biochar.
wood chunks are reaaally handy in the summer as they hold a good amount of winter, i don't recommend them for inside winter grows though.
but outside, or inside summer grows they are great, and they dissolve into humus in about a yr or so
but a good landscaping store should have the lava rock, just get that and bust it all up
what i use to bust it up is weight plates, for like working out.
(standard one inch plates work best, rather than Olympic ones with 2")
i got a 25 lb plate, and a 5 lb one, the 25 as the base, and the 5 as the "hammer"
get a box the size of the plate (deeper works best to keep the flying chunks in the box), get a smaller plate, and then mash the rocks between them, some use pillow cases or what not but you'll tear the bejesus out of anything when you smash it... well except cast iron weight plates...
oh... wear eye protection..
great advice!. Thanks. I will be doing this in the future for sure.
 

DonTesla

Well-Known Member
I frequently wish I was a Canadian! You hire me at your company in Canada, I'll hire you at my company in Michigan. It'll make it easier for both of us to get our respective citizenship!
Lets do it brother, that's a very smart way to get the dualies, hey! shoot, I'm in..
 

DonTesla

Well-Known Member
no landscape lava rock?
or another awesome one is rotted tree log chunks...
just go take a forest hike and look for the oldest fallen log you can find, usually a critter has dug out the innards looking for grubs and such, but if you can crumble the tree log pieces in your hand, they are good to use..
i'm not too clear on the carbon content, but at that point of degradation i doubt it'd sequester any nitrogen but to be safe i always charged them similar to biochar.
wood chunks are reaaally handy in the summer as they hold a good amount of winter, i don't recommend them for inside winter grows though.
but outside, or inside summer grows they are great, and they dissolve into humus in about a yr or so
but a good landscaping store should have the lava rock, just get that and bust it all up
what i use to bust it up is weight plates, for like working out.
(standard one inch plates work best, rather than Olympic ones with 2")
i got a 25 lb plate, and a 5 lb one, the 25 as the base, and the 5 as the "hammer"
get a box the size of the plate (deeper works best to keep the flying chunks in the box), get a smaller plate, and then mash the rocks between them, some use pillow cases or what not but you'll tear the bejesus out of anything when you smash it... well except cast iron weight plates...
oh... wear eye protection..
Super tip on the lava rock and how to smash it, @greasemonkeymann, I'm gonna do some rotten tree hunting this summer too when we go walking in the trails.

:clap:
 

Rasta Roy

Well-Known Member
Super tip on the lava rock and how to smash it, @greasemonkeymann, I'm gonna do some rotten tree hunting this summer too when we go walking in the trails.

:clap:
The woods behind my compost lot are filled with rotten treasure. I go back there with a shovel and five gallon buckets. Check out this log that fell across a deer path and has turned into beautiful red dust, straight up potting soil consistency.

0425170733b.jpg
 

DonTesla

Well-Known Member
@DonTesla I add 1 pound of Langbeinite per cubic yard for the soil blends I sell. It's not a fert I recommend reapplying every cycle.
Thanks @Rasta Roy . Appreciate the open info, brotha. Gonna be great to have a friend in the same biz, we can share International/supplier tips.

Just talked to the GM of the largest timber plant in Canada here and he officially said himself we can this one 40 acre field for free!!! @greasemonkeymann can you believe it. And thats just one of dozens of fields.
.. It's 30-50 feet deep so at least 4 million pounds dry, close to double with moisture. EDIT: Sorry 53 furrow slices deep per acre times 30 acres to be conservative, and thats 6.447 billion pounds, not million, lol with a 'B'.. not used to those... lol
Thats estimating at 30 acres 30 feet deep only, dry weight, based on furrow slice math multiplied by the depth. So up to 25% more than that.

Its beautifully composting. I will add some pics. Just in talks with testing labs now, collecting more samples tomorrow. Shipping samples to my farm for further working and the labs for further testing. For dust, bio diesels, heavy metals, toxins, you name it. We also have liberal access to this 34 Tonne of 3 to 5 year old sawdust. I think I will make 100 Gal of Bokashi out of it to start (asap) and start getting a bio char set up going as well. 45 gallon drums. water tower.

Then I will haul 10 tonnes to my buddies. Start the next batch :D. How many tonnes of grass would you suggest @greasemonkeymann, about 5? so about 50% of the current total?

Im thinking add 1 tonne of bio char per 10 tonne compost mix, I might have a source on some already made naturally by giant forest piles that caught fire under the surface, but if not, we could make some in a field as well. Just enough as we need.

If tests go well, my buddy may build a crusher for lava rock and we can start sourcing aerations and amendments in bulk and start the mixing right on his property only a few kliks away.

Might just give up on animal bedding, for now, but looks like plants in my area sell it as such and that Pine is a good source of low dust sawdust. Still might be a good way to raise a crap tonne for amendments though.

Sawdust is inexpensive and readily available, especially in areas with a large lumber industry. If purchasing the sawdust in bulk, you will need a suitable, covered storage place to keep the material dry, out of the wind, and free of mold. Also consider the additional time and labor involved in “shoveling both ways.”

Dust is an issue with shavings and even more so with sawdust, especially when these materials are purchased in bulk. Pine and fir create the least dust.

What about Bokashi, does anyone sell that bottled up or is that something everyone makes? We could literally make enough so everyone on RIU could get a free bottle and we would have 67 tonnes left over, I would need to buy 34 tonnes of sugar to ferment it lol but I'm thinking of starting with a 45 gallon drum or so :D
 
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