Trying to make CC'S mix but compost is in question

[Yzfirecat]

totally forgot to ask you if it's an outdoor grow or not, that's sorta fairly relevant...
outdoors you can go a good amount higher in the manure
i know peeps with 33% of their mix as manure..
and their shit is MASSIVE each yr too
but if it's outside you could stay with the 20% amount and still add SMALL amounts of the nutrients.

Yea there going outside in 3 weeks into 10gallon fabric pots. U think I should cut back the minerals from 4 cups to 1.5. And the nutrient mix from 1.5 cups to a 1/4 cup. The mix goes into 9cf total of compost.manure/perlite/peatmoss

 

[greasemonkeymann]

so you would dial back the amount of rock dusts but bump up your neem,kelp with a fish and/or alfafa added in? am i following?

edit
hey while youre around @greasemonkeymann im making some spruce planters.do you see any issue with lining the insides with a heavy mil plastic to keep the moisture off the wood.these will be full of dirt year round outside.im concerned about plastic in my mix but weve all grown in plastic pots,right?

ahh, nah, you got that backwards a bit
i'd dial back the amount of 4 cups per cubic foot
to two cups of basalt and one cup of oyster and i wouldn't worry about the gypsum
and the nutrients i'd dial WAY back from the 4 cups per cubic foot to the 1.5 of a half of each of the neem, kelp and crab meals
so all in all you'll be adding a total of 3 cups of minerals, 2 of basalt, and one of oyster flour (only if peat is used though, and make sure it isn't already prelimed too)
the total amount of nutrients is gonna be 1.5 cups
and i wouldn't worry about the plastic man, but if your goal is to protect that wood from the moisture it'll get there either way though.
well, likely it will anyways
you could make it all incognito if you lined the plastic in between those cool coco wool plant liners they use for like ferns and such

 

[greasemonkeymann]

Yea there going outside in 3 weeks into 10gallon fabric pots. U think I should cut back the minerals from 4 cups to 1.5. And the nutrient mix from 1.5 cups to a 1/4 cup. The mix goes into 9cf total of compost.manure/perlite/peatmoss

ah, no that's per cubic foot.
and the minerals is two cups of basalt and one of the oyster flour if you are using peat that isn't already prelimed (most sources of peat actually have d-lime added already)
and i said a half cup of neem, crab and kelp, not a qtr
it'll be 1.5 cups of nutrients in total

 

[natureboygrower]

ahh, nah, you got that backwards a bit
i'd dial back the amount of 4 cups per cubic foot
to two cups of basalt and one cup of oyster and i wouldn't worry about the gypsum
and the nutrients i'd dial WAY back from the 4 cups per cubic foot to the 1.5 of a half of each of the neem, kelp and crab meals
so all in all you'll be adding a total of 3 cups of minerals, 2 of basalt, and one of oyster flour (only if peat is used though, and make sure it isn't already prelimed too)
the total amount of nutrients is gonna be 1.5 cups
and i wouldn't worry about the plastic man, but if your goal is to protect that wood from the moisture it'll get there either way though.
well, likely it will anyways
you could make it all incognito if you lined the plastic in between those cool coco wool plant liners they use for like ferns and such

ok im following ya.yeah coots mix is 1/2 cup each of kelp,neem,crab(not sure if op said that or not) and 1 cup each oyster,basalt,glacial,gysum.you wouldnt fuck with the glacial or gypsum huh? the reason i ask because im getting ready to order,nothing local to source so shippings a bitch.i know you said youd rather have kelp than the dusts.can always add the dusts later.im also gonna add the 1 cup of geensand per cf like you mentioned as wellas a mix of the alfalfa and fish(1/2 cup each?). hey appreciate the advice

 

[Yzfirecat]

ah, yea, no that's a speck different, if you were to use that as the base portion you'd have problems.
you want to use probably no more than 20% of your mix as manure, you'll still need some coco or peat as the "inert" portion of humus
i say that in parentheses because it's not inert at all, just WAY slower to degrade than compost does.
cow manure is good stuff to use, especially when it's well composted like that.
and you'll need to go reaaaal light on all the nutrients now, like VERY light.
in fact if you are going to amend past that i'd maybe go at 15% for the manure
use the extra manure to make a worm bin too, you'll be like 2 weeks ahead of normal that way
damn near an instant-wormbin
i'd layer the manure with whole tree leaves, and cover the wormbin with wet cardboard to keep the birds and critters from eating the worms
also keeps it a nice moisture too.
get like a 35 gallon smartpot for that and you are DONE.
in hindsight i wished that's what i did, took me a good 3 weeks to get the population going in my bin
i'd amend a good 2 cups of basalt to that, along with a cup of oyster meal if you are using peat as the base. (EDIT, the soil, not the worms)
to that i'd add a half cup of neem, and a half cup of crab meal and a half cup of kelp meal
you could easily go without any nutrients past the manure though.
also don't forget the aeration/drainage
for those i'd go with pumice, volcanic rock, and/or perlite.
at a 40% or so rate too

Did u see that all my minerals n nutrients came all mixed already in bags.

 

[DonTesla]

Have u ever heard of a bad batch of wiggle worm castings my local hydro store has 30lb bags but have read else where about bad bugs n stuff in it sometimes.

Nitrates and bioavailability of vermicompost nutirients will improve for 3 months after bagging, cap out at 4 months, and then start to decline..

But bad bugs are a total different story. However, there is one nematode that kills over 200 types of other pests and bugs!

 

[Yzfirecat]

Nitrates and bioavailability of vermicompost nutirients will improve for 3 months after bagging, cap out at 4 months, and then start to decline..

But bad bugs are a total different story. However, there is one nematode that kills over 200 types of other pests and bugs!

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Hey that's great to know thanks. Hopefully I won't have any issues this year.

 

[DonTesla]

Hey that's great to know thanks. Hopefully I won't have any issues this year.

Anytime, Yz. I'd also perhaps for fun if you can spare to try using your kelp to 2 % of total volume (over 2 cups per CF) on one plant if you can, and see what happens, but I love kelp and terps! < EDIT: And low manure and water only whenever possible. . > I also like 1 cup per CF for greensand, and about 1/2 for the alfalfa and fish bm. Hyroot uses a TBSP I think but most use 1/2 cup per CF, its quite strong. Alfalfa, you can work in half of through your castings so your mix is ready sooner and less hot, but that's just me, I don't like to mix soil too hot! Even with 2% kelp I can start right away usually even on babies, but the alfalfa, no way. I now double my kelp with half my batches and cut out alfalfa actually, and smells got better.

 

[greasemonkeymann]

Did u see that all my minerals n nutrients came all mixed already in bags.

sorry man, i'm only online during business hours, mon to fri
I didn't know they were already mixed, I personally like to have a lil more control over what I mix in, but i'm sure you'll be alright.
i'm a lil neurotic about my soil and I openly admit a lot of the things I do aren't probably mandatory to get good results, it's just how I do it though
it's a lil difficult to deviate from the techniques that have proven to be the most successful for me though
but that being said there are a LOT of different techniques that work just fine.
good analogy would be cooking, many can do it just perfectly fine, with never a complaint, but it's often the little things that a cook can do to differentiate the final product from others that makes the difference