Bridgelux EB Series Build

[Serva]

Both are PPFD!
PPFD is distance dependend and follows certain laws..
If you double the distance you have 4x less intensity, because the light is distributed to a four times larger area.
The PAR measurements given by the meter are always spot measurements and apply for 1m2 area.
That's why I recommended you a simple lux meter and conversation factors to get an idea of the real ppfd.
It's much less accurate but accurate enough to give you values to work with.
The values I gave you are only an approximate estimate.
In order to obtain the actual performance at different distances, you must create a PAR map consisting of numerous point measurements, evenly distributed over your entire surface and then calculate the average PPFD.

My goal is to get an even distributed ~50.000lx(~700μMol/s) over the whole canopy.
I'm not interested to push the limits higher because usually I do not use hydro and/or CO² but I'm interested to safe energy as much as possible but still providing enough light to my plants.

And to your last question, it is more than enough and you don't need to change anything. The lower the distance the higher the intensity, but remember, above 1000μMol/s you can easily get bleaching and the plants needs a lot more nutes.

Thanks alot, got it! Good to hear i can run them smoother, or choose to buy less

 

[wietefras]

PPF is a total output for a light source and this is noted as: umol/s
PPFD is a spot measurement and is noted as: umol/s/m2

To go from PPF to PPFD you divide the PPF by the surface area over which that light is distributed. For instance a 2000umol/s (PPF) light spread out over 2m2 will give you an average PPFD of 1000umol/s/m2.

PFFD with increased distance doesn't follow the inverse square law if you have a grow room/tent with reflective walls. The light is confined by the walls and will bounce back. You then have "wall losses", but those are more linear in nature (eg say 10% loss at 30cm and then 20% loss at 60cm)

 

[OLD MOTHER SATIVA]

in process of getting finned aluminum heatsink enclosure with acryilic clear cover for

1170mm @70w 561c led strip [in production]

and will be more affordable than add on clovers

plan to have 8 to10 as a grid for coverage[ 560-700w ]full throttle....but can be dimmed..

 

[jonsnow399]

in process of getting finned aluminum heatsink enclosure with acryilic clear cover for

1170mm @70w 561c led strip [in production]

and will be more affordable than add on clovers

plan to have 8 to10 as a grid for coverage[ 560-700w ]full throttle....but can be dimmed..

How many diodes? you mean 1120 mm of course.

 

[BuddyColas]

Both are PPFD!
PPFD is distance dependend and follows certain laws..
If you double the distance you have 4x less intensity, because the light is distributed to a four times larger area.
The PAR measurements given by the meter are always spot measurements and apply for 1m2 area.
That's why I recommended you a simple lux meter and conversation factors to get an idea of the real ppfd.
It's much less accurate but accurate enough to give you values to work with.
The values I gave you are only an approximate estimate.
In order to obtain the actual performance at different distances, you must create a PAR map consisting of numerous point measurements, evenly distributed over your entire surface and then calculate the average PPFD.

My goal is to get an even distributed ~50.000lx(~700μMol/s) over the whole canopy.
I'm not interested to push the limits higher because usually I do not use hydro and/or CO² but I'm interested to safe energy as much as possible but still providing enough light to my plants.

And to your last question, it is more than enough and you don't need to change anything. The lower the distance the higher the intensity, but remember, above 1000μMol/s you can easily get bleaching and the plants needs a lot more nutes.

Ok fellow lux meter owner, what lux do you shoot for for veg, cuttings and seeds? I too aim for 50k in flower...plenty.

 

[OLD MOTHER SATIVA]

How many diodes? you mean 1120 mm of course.

Howdy,

Board Spec 1170*20*2mm, HASL, 1oz，2.0w/m.k,
70w@ 48Vf dc @1460m/a
,160pcs Samsung561C，3000Kevin,S6,CRI:80, .....

 

[nogod_]

Sweet.

How much you pay fer one of those?

Howdy,

Board Spec 1170*20*2mm, HASL, 1oz，2.0w/m.k,
70w@ 48Vf dc @1460m/a
,160pcs Samsung561C，3000Kevin,S6,CRI:80, .....

 

[Chip Green]

So, because you guys are all so generously sharing your knowledge of these calculations, I'm going to throw this out there....
I built a simple wooden frame rack of 21 of the 560mm EB strips 3500k, evenly spread over a 6 foot frame, running at 1050ma, divided up over 3 Meanwells.......
If I intend to SCROG(maybe) 4 plants(somehow) under this over the 6x2 ft area, did my novice attempt at these calculations allow for enough light to get some decent results? I feel like I had enough information gathered, even though some of it is a bit above my head, to get enough basic light for now....
I guess I'm looking to remove, or possibly confirm any doubt I have, before I start cloning off the "mom" I gained from a generous donation of a dear friend.....

 

[Randomblame]

So, because you guys are all so generously sharing your knowledge of these calculations, I'm going to throw this out there....
I built a simple wooden frame rack of 21 of the 560mm EB strips 3500k, evenly spread over a 6 foot frame, running at 1050ma, divided up over 3 Meanwells.......
If I intend to SCROG(maybe) 4 plants(somehow) under this over the 6x2 ft area, did my novice attempt at these calculations allow for enough light to get some decent results? I feel like I had enough information gathered, even though some of it is a bit above my head, to get enough basic light for now....
I guess I'm looking to remove, or possibly confirm any doubt I have, before I start cloning off the "mom" I gained from a generous donation of a dear friend.....

21 strips, each 23v @1050mA =24w x 21=507w : 12sft(2x6) = 42w/sft.
Assuming 46% eff. @1050mA 19,5PAR/w per sft.
Looks good, mine has 40,5w/sft. COB based!

 

[Randomblame]

Ok fellow lux meter owner, what lux do you shoot for for veg, cuttings and seeds? I too aim for 50k in flower...plenty.

I have 15k when I start with seed- or cuttings and climb slowly to max. 30k after 5-6 weeks and have good growth with temperatures around the 25°C.

 

[Sirtie]

I have a question about 1ft strips BXEB-L0280Z-57E1000-C-A3 as I need a small and simple setup.

I was thinking to put 8 of them (176.8V in total) on this driver AC/DC 66-200V 350MA driver (LED75W-200-C0350-D).

I believe this will work just fine. Does anybody have any suggestions or alternatives on how to drive them?

 

[Randomblame]

Meanwell HLG-60H-C350(B), max. 200v/350mA(70w max.), dimmable between 5-100%.

Or take an HLG-80H-C350(B), max. 257v/350mA (90w max.) and you get the option to add a few more strips later if you want.
Meanwell A drivers have internal dimmers(50-100%) B drivers have a separate dimmer circuit which means you need a additional 100kOhm poti, therefor you can dimming from 5-100%..

 

[Sirtie]

Meanwell HLG-60H-C350(B), max. 200v/350mA(70w max.), dimmable between 5-100%.

Or take an HLG-80H-C350(B), max. 257v/350mA (90w max.) and you get the option to add a few more strips later if you want.
Meanwell A drivers have internal dimmers(50-100%) B drivers have a separate dimmer circuit which means you need a additional 100kOhm poti, therefor you can dimming from 5-100%..

Thanks @Randomblame
this looks less expensive and with more options.

Any suggestions on how to add automatic dimming? Like sunrise/sunset.
I founds this tc420 looks like inexpensive option but want to see if there is any other ways of doing it.

Thanks again

 

[HydoDan]

I'm looking to build a seedling/clone light using three or four 1ft BXEB-L0280Z-57E1000-C-A3 strips..
Looking at the APC-35-350 or APC-35-500 drivers... Any suggestions or input would be appreciated...

 

[Serva]

Today I bought the aluminium and ordered the strips. 12x 1ft at 350mA (92W). In the future I will add some colder "work light" and will use the APC-35-350, if I like the EB series. But I guess it's all about cooling, though I don't see any reasons to go with higher current. The strips are cheap, so better get additional strips (= better coverage) than more current. Does that make sense to you?

 

[MrTwist1]

Thanks @Randomblame
this looks less expensive and with more options.

Any suggestions on how to add automatic dimming? Like sunrise/sunset.
I founds this tc420 looks like inexpensive option but want to see if there is any other ways of doing it.

Thanks again

There's a few ways to do it... depends if you're handy with an arduino. I just bought the Bluefish aquarium controller and I'm loving it. It's a little pricey at $200 bucks but it does 0-5v, 0-10v, PWM and it's got a wifi card included so you can make adjustments remotely. I am very happy with it, and it was pretty simple to setup. Well worth the money in my opinion.

 

[Sirtie]

There's a few ways to do it... depends if you're handy with an arduino. I just bought the Bluefish aquarium controller and I'm loving it. It's a little pricey at $200 bucks but it does 0-5v, 0-10v, PWM and it's got a wifi card included so you can make adjustments remotely. I am very happy with it, and it was pretty simple to setup. Well worth the money in my opinion.

this is a nice toy but no way I'll pay $200 for diy, there must be cheaper way of doing this. I'm ok with arduino just haven't found any good step by step resources.

 

[Randomblame]

HurricaneX LED Controller, 80,-$US plus 0-10V PWM Extension for Meanwell HLG-Drivers 25,-$US

http://www.stevesleds.com/HurricaneX-LED-Controller_p_237.html

http://www.stevesleds.com/HurricaneX-10V-PWM-Converter--16-Channel-version_p_335.html

No wifi, but with display and half the price of a bluefish controller.
There are a few arduino related threads here but basically you just need a 0-10v pwm extension card because arduino is limited to 0-5v pwm dimming.
There are a few more commercial solutions(typhoon, supernova..) but it's hard to find their source-codes for their latest firmwares.
The most I found is outdated...

 

[Randomblame]

Today I bought the aluminium and ordered the strips. 12x 1ft at 350mA (92W). In the future I will add some colder "work light" and will use the APC-35-350, if I like the EB series. But I guess it's all about cooling, though I don't see any reasons to go with higher current. The strips are cheap, so better get additional strips (= better coverage) than more current. Does that make sense to you?

Yepp, it does!

 

[Randomblame]

I'm looking to build a seedling/clone light using three or four 1ft BXEB-L0280Z-57E1000-C-A3 strips..
Looking at the APC-35-350 or APC-35-500 drivers... Any suggestions or input would be appreciated...

APC-35-500 has not enough dc fv to drive 4 strips@500mA(88dcv/500mA/~44w) the 350mA version would work(~31w net./37w wall watts). Should be enough for 2-3sft's with seed- or cutlings.