DIY Samsung LM561C build

Oneshark

Oneshark

Well-Known Member
Yodaweed said:
Sweet you just cut them and glue them on? How much intensity do they give when finished?
Click to expand...
They already have a 3M adhesive tape at the back so I just cut them at lengths and peel off the tape's covering and I'm good to go.

With the light evenly spread out, the output is much softer below every row of diodes as compared to QB's where all 304 diodes are crammed on a size of a bond paper. I can lower them much further, they're currently 6 inch above my canopy dimmed down to 140w, as I'm acclimating my plants before running it full or until they experience light burn. But they're still very, very bright.

And with 600 points of light source at different angles, there's no dark area even inside my canopy.
 
Oneshark

Oneshark

Well-Known Member
joecanna17 said:
Watts up OneShark? Lights lookin good! Waiting on a reply from Mr Hu about my planned lights now.
Click to expand...
Thanks Joe! And sorry man I was planning to tag you here but don't know how. I also talked to Vincent regarding the alternating diodes and he said those would require them designing new pcb as the ones currently made are for the Epistar chips or for the Samsung, they have a strip design available but for the lower diode models.
 
Randomblame

Randomblame

Well-Known Member
Oneshark said:
I have really no idea, but stumbled upon a voltage drop calculator during my research and that at the end of my 2.5 strip, I lose 0.2v but the Mean Well drives them perfectly. Also the lower the AWG wire no., the smaller the V drop. I used AWG 18.
Click to expand...
Hey Oneshark,
You will not only see voltage drop through the length of the strips, this many resistors between the LED's also turn a lot of current into heat.
So these strips are not as efficient as you might think. ~140-150lm/w maybe?
You should have searched for CC strips where no resistors are needed. They are available, I've seen them on alibaba!

And compare the prices.
With your price you pay less (26$ :300 led's =0,0867$/pcs) for a single LED as Mark offers(230$ :2500pcs =0,092$/pcs) and this including production costs.
Still sure that these are real S6 bins?
 
Oneshark

Oneshark

Well-Known Member
Randomblame said:
Hey Oneshark,
You will not only see voltage drop through the length of the strips, this many resistors between the LED's also turn a lot of current into heat.
So these strips are not as efficient as you might think. ~140-150lm/w maybe?
You should have searched for CC strips where no resistors are needed. They are available, I've seen them on alibaba!
Click to expand...
Oh. Did not know about those as I only know some basic electronics but thanks for the heads up! Would research those strips and check them out. And maybe try them on my next build. Are they like these strip where you just plug one end to a driver and they'll go?

Randomblame said:
And compare the prices.
With your price you pay less (26$ :300 led's =0,0867$/pcs) for a single LED as Mark offers(230$ :2500pcs =0,092$/pcs) and this including production costs.
Still sure that these are real S6 bins?
Click to expand...
I guess it's because they're sources directly from China's factories and that everything arriving at western countries increases prices instantly (bureaucracy and taxes.) Also maybe because they already have the design and equipment running and have done their R&D with these strips for other bigger clientele before me (e.g. Someone ordered 50,000 meters of this before, paying for the R&D and stuffs and I'm just piggybacking on them) and we all know that labor cost on China is close to nothing.

As for the authenticity, the company is certified and accredited by Samsung. But if they dupe me then I'll never really know. Only yield could tell. :)

Thanks again!
 
Randomblame

Randomblame

Well-Known Member
Oneshark said:
Oh. Did not know about those as I only know some basic electronics but thanks for the heads up! Would research those strips and check them out. And maybe try them on my next build. Are they like these strip where you just plug one end to a driver and they'll go?



I guess it's because they're sources directly from China's factories and that everything arriving at western countries increases prices instantly (bureaucracy and taxes.) Also maybe because they already have the design and equipment running and have done their R&D with these strips for other bigger clientele before me (e.g. Someone ordered 50,000 meters of this before, paying for the R&D and stuffs and I'm just piggybacking on them) and we all know that labor cost on China is close to nothing.

As for the authenticity, the company is certified and accredited by Samsung. But if they dupe me then I'll never really know. Only yield could tell. :)

Thanks again!
Click to expand...

They are constant current so they need series wiring but you can also wire them parallel with a matching driver.
It depends on voltage..
Most hardstrips like Samsung H- or F-Series are wired in series-parallel circuits of 8pcs in series and 6 or 9 of these little strings in parallel. So they need ~22,5v(8x~2,8v) and run at 480mA current in the case of the H-Series, which means each cluster/led get's 80mA.
With this strips, for instance, you can use still use your 24CV driver.
The current would be divided by the strips used. Maybe you need to adjust output voltage via internal voltage poti to avoid thermal runnaways, but it should work.
There is a "EB-series" related thread with lots of usefull infos about strips and how to wire them.

https://www.rollitup.org/t/bridgelux-eb-series-build.928676/
 
Oneshark

Oneshark

Well-Known Member
Randomblame said:
They are constant current so they need series wiring but you can also wire them parallel with a matching driver.
It depends on voltage..
Most hardstrips like Samsung H- or F-Series are wired in series-parallel circuits of 8pcs in series and 6 or 9 of these little strings in parallel. So they need ~22,5v(8x~2,8v) and run at 480mA current in the case of the H-Series, which means each cluster/led get's 80mA.
With this strips, for instance, you can use still use your 24CV driver.
The current would be divided by the strips used. Maybe you need to adjust output voltage via internal voltage poti to avoid thermal runnaways, but it should work.
There is a "EB-series" related thread with lots of usefull infos about strips and how to wire them.

https://www.rollitup.org/t/bridgelux-eb-series-build.928676/
Click to expand...
Did a quick look at Alibaba and some guides on CC led strips and it seems to be the better choice. Checked a HLG-185H and the lowest they go was at 500mA, so I'll have to figure out some series/parallel strings wiring for my intended fixture. Thanks for the heads up again! Would definitely use this on my next build.
 
Randomblame

Randomblame

Well-Known Member
Find one that produces them with a maximum of 24vf and you can still use your hlg-185-24 with as many strips as you want. HLG-185-24 should have ~9A, so enough to run 18 24v-strips parallel(~500mA).
 
BuddyColas

BuddyColas

Well-Known Member
welight said:
Anyone chasing S6 Samsung LM561C I can support, 2500 pcs per reel, delivery 2- 5 working days
Cheers
Mark
Click to expand...
Wow...you have quite the selection of flex LEDs on your site. Please include the numbers of your strips like the build here. Thanks.
 
Yodaweed

Yodaweed

Well-Known Member
Oneshark said:
They already have a 3M adhesive tape at the back so I just cut them at lengths and peel off the tape's covering and I'm good to go.

With the light evenly spread out, the output is much softer below every row of diodes as compared to QB's where all 304 diodes are crammed on a size of a bond paper. I can lower them much further, they're currently 6 inch above my canopy dimmed down to 140w, as I'm acclimating my plants before running it full or until they experience light burn. But they're still very, very bright.

And with 600 points of light source at different angles, there's no dark area even inside my canopy.
Click to expand...
Nice, anyway you could take some light intensity measurements under them either with a PAR or lumen meter?
 
joecanna17

joecanna17

Well-Known Member
Oneshark said:
Thanks Joe! And sorry man I was planning to tag you here but don't know how. I also talked to Vincent regarding the alternating diodes and he said those would require them designing new pcb as the ones currently made are for the Epistar chips or for the Samsung, they have a strip design available but for the lower diode models.
Click to expand...
No worries, man. I'm glad I stumbled across it. I think you can tag someone by typing @username, and as you're typing, you'll see names spelled similarly pop up to tag.

I'm in contact with Vincent currently, trying to sort out power and color specs. I've updated my threads with the diagram I sent him (Horizontal fixtures thanks mostly to your design), along with questions. Apparently, it seems like they should be able to provide White, UV, and IR combinations all one the strip, if we wanted to. He did say though that at least the UVs would be (good) Chinese diodes, as they don't have Samsung UV I guess. I may just go with all 3500k this time around, unless it isn't too complicated to get so spectrum specific.

Keep up the good show! We're all looking forward to seeing those bad boys put photons to leaves, I'm sure!

KaliKushCo said:
@Oneshark, can you point me in the right direction for a supplier of legit LM561c? Thanks!
Click to expand...
@KaliKushCo The company is Shenzen Bright Technology Industrial Ltd., on Alibaba. They have all kinds of options. Happy hunting!
 
Last edited:
You must log in or register to reply here.
Top