OrganicGorilla
Well-Known Member
Go with COBs. They will last for years
FWIW, I am also using Advanced LED, and I must say getting it is the only thing I haven't had to second-guess. Def overpriced with diy in mind, but it was worth it to me - to be lazy and to not learn how to build a light haha. Great warranty and customer supp, too.Advanced LED Diamond series xml350 https://www.amazon.com/Advanced-LED-Lights-CREE-XML/dp/B01G4Z6OFE
From Platinum's website-I agree! The P300 is what I had, and ime I started getting rock hard nugs after I got my shit together - the light certainly can perform.
I think the important thing is to know what you're getting. For example, I recall the p300 really only drawing 180w
Have you used a killawatt to check? I don't mean anything by it, no offense, but I do believe that's what I was getting from my p300, 180w with bloom and veg switches on.From Platinum's website-
You will recall that Platinum's have seperate switched for veg/bloom, When i refer to the lights being under "full load" im refering to both vega nd bloom switches being on, as they work better together during bloom, so combine both wattages above to get the true wattage under full load and thats 273w. Like i said before Platinum is one of the only LED brands that actually builds their lights to the marketed wattage, thats why they can accurately claim that a P150 can replace a 250w HPS.
- Avg. Power Draw - 93w Veg / 180w Bloom.
No offense taken thats what these forums are for is to have discussions and spread knowledge and experience. I have not personally checked tbh so you could be right, but i know my electric hasnt gone down THAT MUCH since switching to LED over HPS so im inclinded to believe the full load is both wattages added still, would be interested to check though! i dont have a kw meter but i could just call platinum and ask them.. maybe ill do that sometime today and post back with my findings just to make sure neither of us is spreading false infoHave you used a killawatt to check? I don't mean anything by it, no offense, but I do believe that's what I was getting from my p300, 180w with bloom and veg switches on.
They might just be cleverly wording it to omit the fact that veg + bloom = 180w
Agreed. And awesome man! Hope you enjoy hydro, i been doing it for a few years now, tried DWC to start and had soem issues there so i went to flood and drain tables and loved that for a long time but the maintence involved killed me, I literally just this week upgraded to a Ebb and Flow bucket system and my chiller is on the way! I'm already planning on running an icebox off the chiller also to help cool the incoming air to my tent. The only thing slowing me down is that i need to figure out a way to make my own icebox using either SS or titanium for the core, sadly the HI icebox products use a copper core so you cant run nutes through them (or rather you SHOUDLNT) and i dont have the space to run another res just for the chiller, plus then id have to invest in wort chillers, temp controlled rheostats, and electronic watergate valves, whole lotta exyta $$ for something that i can accomplish very easily once i find the proper coreIn any case, the advice holds true for all pre-built lights - most, if not all, are overpriced, and especially so because the actual power draw is less than how most models are named; try to know what you're buying before you pull the trigger!
Side note, I would recommend a killawatt meter if you wanna drive yourself crazy haha. I started hydro this year, and my light is prob only half of my power usage re: grow setup. Got a chiller now, too
I need to do some research on COB setups. I'm lost when it comes to how they work identifying what I want/need and all that.a single 150W cob would do that area fine, and be cheap
TBCH idk that much about how they work compared to other LEDs, but i was considering a small one such as this for my seedling/early veg tent which is a 2ftx2ft:I need to do some research on COB setups. I'm lost when it comes to how they work identifying what I want/need and all that.
The best place to learn is here. You can have a conversation directly with the person you'd be buying from....and they're Johnny on the spot answering questions. Otherwise do a search for, 'LED forum'. There's a couple sites that specialize in just LED grow lights.Ok so if I decide to steer away from LED and into COB what route should I take. Can anyone point me to some good places to "learn" about COB setups and what/where I can buy the stuff to build my own. I'm very handy and have all the tools I'd need to to build. Thanks!
just to clairfy COB is a type of LED, so you wouldnt be "steering away from LED and into COB" its still LEDOk so if I decide to steer away from LED and into COB what route should I take. Can anyone point me to some good places to "learn" about COB setups and what/where I can buy the stuff to build my own. I'm very handy and have all the tools I'd need to to build. Thanks!
its worth mentioning that if you have the electrical knowledge to replace a cob chip then you can certainly replace burnt out diodes in a box LED as well..If a COB go's titty up. I can replace a single chip. Not throw the whole thing away like a busted box LED.
The best place to learn is here. You can have a conversation directly with the person you'd be buying from....and they're Johnny on the spot answering questions. Otherwise do a search for, 'LED forum'. There's a couple sites that specialize in just LED grow lights.
Lol yes I just realized it myself as I'm browsing on the subjectjust to clairfy COB is a type of LED, so you wouldnt be "steering away from LED and into COB" its still LED
its worth mentioning that if you have the electrical knowledge to replace a cob chip then you can certainly replace burnt out diodes in a box LED as well..
edit for terrible spelling xD
Yes, COB means Chip On BoardSo the "chip" is what actually emits the light?