Budley Doright
Well-Known Member
I was asked to document the window shaker to chiller build I did last month so here it is.
Materials
Window shaker on sale $123
Co-axial water coil $120, coopernickle.
Ranco digital controller $50.
Eco 365 pump $35
Misc $15
Note: I have all the necessary tools and refrigerant/nitrogen so didn't include that.
I figure just over $350 all in but I'm being hopeful lol.
First thing was to reclaim the 134a to reuse. Cut the evap fan shaft and cut out the evap coil, leaving the cap tube in place. I was actually going to remove the cap tube and put a tx valve inplace but they sent the wrong one. Next was to fit the coaxial coil in place and weld, also put permanent service port in place. If you are leaving the cap tube you better make sure you are purging with nitrogen or it'll run for about 10 sec before the carbon plugs the tube. 
I put the cover on to make sure it all fit. Put it under a vacume for one hour while I finished the plumbing on the water side and wrapping the coil with insulated tape to stop condensation. To make this thing operate with the Ranco control I basically removed all of the AC controls and wired direct to plug. My receptacles are controlled by the Ranco to accommodate my psssive chiller pumps so I just plugged into that. When temps drop below 66 the receptacle is powered. I also mounted a freeze stat on the outlet water supply at the coil to shut down system if water stops flowing, this happens at 37F. Because of the different amount of refrigerant required I charged it to the proper superheat 12-15f and that was that. It was a pretty bare build and could have taken it way farther but wanted to keep price low and see how it worked 
Materials
Window shaker on sale $123
Co-axial water coil $120, coopernickle.
Ranco digital controller $50.
Eco 365 pump $35
Misc $15
Note: I have all the necessary tools and refrigerant/nitrogen so didn't include that.
I figure just over $350 all in but I'm being hopeful lol.
First thing was to reclaim the 134a to reuse. Cut the evap fan shaft and cut out the evap coil, leaving the cap tube in place. I was actually going to remove the cap tube and put a tx valve inplace but they sent the wrong one. Next was to fit the coaxial coil in place and weld, also put permanent service port in place. If you are leaving the cap tube you better make sure you are purging with nitrogen or it'll run for about 10 sec before the carbon plugs the tube. I put the cover on to make sure it all fit. Put it under a vacume for one hour while I finished the plumbing on the water side and wrapping the coil with insulated tape to stop condensation. To make this thing operate with the Ranco control I basically removed all of the AC controls and wired direct to plug. My receptacles are controlled by the Ranco to accommodate my psssive chiller pumps so I just plugged into that. When temps drop below 66 the receptacle is powered. I also mounted a freeze stat on the outlet water supply at the coil to shut down system if water stops flowing, this happens at 37F. Because of the different amount of refrigerant required I charged it to the proper superheat 12-15f and that was that. It was a pretty bare build and could have taken it way farther but wanted to keep price low and see how it worked 
.