• Here is a link to the full explanation: https://rollitup.org/t/welcome-back-did-you-try-turning-it-off-and-on-again.1104810/

Watering/Feeding in flower.

Dr Magill

Dr Magill

Well-Known Member
I've got some white widow with almost solid white pistils and 80% or so cloudy trichomes. It is something I didn't expect. The plant is awesome and I really don't want to harvest too soon. Last run was same strain with totally a different look. I'm a little baffled at this point
 
Dr. Who

Dr. Who

Well-Known Member
Creature1969 said:
This is making me wonder if my sativa's are actually finished as I'm assuming. They're near 100% cloudy trics. 1 has red pistils that have mostly receded and the other is mostly red pistils and starting to foxtail like crazy. I snipped a bud yesterday to try as soon as it dries enough.

I haven't grown nearly enough to tell by the look of the buds. I've been waiting for signs of amber but no joy. Then again, I've only seen amber on 1 plant of the 5 I've harvested. I even let a few go way too long waiting for amber only to have tric heads start turning black.
Click to expand...
Sounds rather simple for me to say this but, You are learning! It's that learning by doing that will make the difference down the road.

Sounds like your finding the variables involved. Strains differ!
 
Dr. Who

Dr. Who

Well-Known Member
Dr Magill said:
I've got some white widow with almost solid white pistils and 80% or so cloudy trichomes. It is something I didn't expect. The plant is awesome and I really don't want to harvest too soon. Last run was same strain with totally a different look. I'm a little baffled at this point
Click to expand...
This is the plant expressing "environmental shift". It is common and should not be worried about.
The plant is reacting to the conditions it's growing in. Temps, RH, amount of feed and the frequency it's feed, air flow. It all makes a difference to the plant in it's style of growing it's self.

This effect is more prevalent in hybrid strains. The environ will cause the plant to grow favoring the Ind or sat side of their ancestry, to the conditions that favor it, and it's potential for the best success.

Understand the way I said it?
 
MichiganMedGrower

MichiganMedGrower

Well-Known Member
Dr. Who said:
AGREED.

In playing with my GG#4 cut. The longer I run it to my point of harvest. Including the supplements I give, at the right times. I found I can get a rather Grape & Berry nose and taste out of it. I can get 3 differing nose and taste profiles from it. That end depends on feeding and supplement factors.
Each will have distinct and different buzz profiles/results, IF I cure them out to 8 weeks at 62% RH in the container used.

You have a very "classic" type GG4 result.
One that increases the classic in that way and,,,
A very intense hallucinogenic effect that can give "time loss" and be quite, stupefying. LONG lasting buzz but, the increased trippy/time loss part. Does not carry on over the first hr. Pvt testing does show differing amounts of THC compounds in different concentrations.

This is what got me interested in soil micro contents effecting THC and CBD compound levels in finished materials. That's another thread and we've done that one already - pretty much. :wink: :wink:

COB curing makes this type of effect come out in about every strain I've COBed.....The trippy/time loss part.....lasts longer too. This little nugget of info (observation), ties directly to how styles of curing can effect the final result also....

:hump: :clap::clap:
Click to expand...

I have a very different theory from my year of testing clones on multiple plants and run 3 times each ( third BLT 3 is flowering now ).

I think clones don't grow the same every time. And I have been really watching. They can become a bit different than the ones before. Even with the same feeding. And even if identical through veg.

Now that is in a ventilated room and the seasons definitely affect my room. It I have phenos from seed growing more like the last time I saw it than my BLT 3.
 
MichiganMedGrower

MichiganMedGrower

Well-Known Member
chemphlegm said:
I see finished plants with snow white pistils sometimes
Click to expand...
I used to cut plants that showed cloudy but still were about 70/30 red to white pistils. Hell my breeder uses this point for his harvest rec.

But I let them go longer and they make New clear trichomes and keep doing this in waves til they are done. There are layers of trichs by the time I see them all cloudy again 3 weeks later.
 
GreenBean 420

GreenBean 420

Well-Known Member
Hot damn! This is quality stuff right here. You guys are awesome. These are the exact kind of detailed answers I'm looking for!
I have to go back and reread everything later on but as to the nutes my floranova bloom is a 4-6-8 or something like that. Close. And I haven't gone over the max feeding. The call for 5ml from the second or third week of flower until the end. So I haven gone over 5ml. BUT. The dose on the Potash says 1ml/liter. So 3ml a gallon pretty much. I gave 5ml two feedings with the base nutes. I think that's what pissed the ladies off. I think the Potash dose locked out the plant and it showed fake N tox symptoms. Because I'm def not over feeding nitrogen.
I am curious though as the last two feedings have both been recommended doses and nothing higher...and...I gave two waterings in between. So I'm curious if the lockout or N tox symptoms will go away or stay.
Also I didn't know about the flora killing the good bacteria. I also give humic acid with the feedings, but only the recommended dose and only once a week. So hopefully the flora isn't messing with that as well. Am I wasting molasses hahah?
 
MichiganMedGrower

MichiganMedGrower

Well-Known Member
GreenBean 420 said:
Hot damn! This is quality stuff right here. You guys are awesome. These are the exact kind of detailed answers I'm looking for!
I have to go back and reread everything later on but as to the nutes my floranova bloom is a 4-6-8 or something like that. Close. And I haven't gone over the max feeding. The call for 5ml from the second or third week of flower until the end. So I haven gone over 5ml. BUT. The dose on the Potash says 1ml/liter. So 3ml a gallon pretty much. I gave 5ml two feedings with the base nutes. I think that's what pissed the ladies off. I think the Potash dose locked out the plant and it showed fake N tox symptoms. Because I'm def not over feeding nitrogen.
I am curious though as the last two feedings have both been recommended doses and nothing higher...and...I gave two waterings in between. So I'm curious if the lockout or N tox symptoms will go away or stay.
Also I didn't know about the flora killing the good bacteria. I also give humic acid with the feedings, but only the recommended dose and only once a week. So hopefully the flora isn't messing with that as well. Am I wasting molasses hahah?
Click to expand...
Flora nova does not automatically kill bacteria. It is designed for soil use. Overfeeding and overwatering kill the bacteria.

Always a new myth in the thread. Lol.
 
chemphlegm

chemphlegm

Well-Known Member
or?

The application of organic fertilizers increased the organic carbon content of the soil and thereby increasing the microbial counts and microbial biomass carbon. The use of inorganic fertilizers resulted in low organic carbon content, microbial counts and microbial biomass carbon of the soil, although it increased the soil’s NPK level which could be explained by the rates of fertilizers being applied.

http://scialert.net/fulltext/?doi=ja.2010.102.110&org=11
 
MichiganMedGrower

MichiganMedGrower

Well-Known Member
chemphlegm said:
or?

The application of organic fertilizers increased the organic carbon content of the soil and thereby increasing the microbial counts and microbial biomass carbon. The use of inorganic fertilizers resulted in low organic carbon content, microbial counts and microbial biomass carbon of the soil, although it increased the soil’s NPK level which could be explained by the rates of fertilizers being applied.

http://scialert.net/fulltext/?doi=ja.2010.102.110&org=11
Click to expand...

Yes tons of variables involved but mostly it won't matter to our short Grow.
 
Dr Magill

Dr Magill

Well-Known Member
Dr. Who said:
This is the plant expressing "environmental shift". It is common and should not be worried about.
The plant is reacting to the conditions it's growing in. Temps, RH, amount of feed and the frequency it's feed, air flow. It all makes a difference to the plant in it's style of growing it's self.

This effect is more prevalent in hybrid strains. The environ will cause the plant to grow favoring the Ind or sat side of their ancestry, to the conditions that favor it, and it's potential for the best success.

Understand the way I said it?
Click to expand...
Yes. My room, an outside shed, is affected by the seasons. I have seasonal fluctuations which I control OK, but not perfect. I see what you're saying
 
Dr. Who

Dr. Who

Well-Known Member
MichiganMedGrower said:
I have a very different theory from my year of testing clones on multiple plants and run 3 times each ( third BLT 3 is flowering now ).

I think clones don't grow the same every time. And I have been really watching. They can become a bit different than the ones before. Even with the same feeding. And even if identical through veg.

Now that is in a ventilated room and the seasons definitely affect my room. It I have phenos from seed growing more like the last time I saw it than my BLT 3.
Click to expand...
Interesting.
I base my statement on accepted plant biology......also decades of seeing it happen.

NOT saying your wrong. Just qualifying my statement.

AND it is an interesting observation. I have to say, how exactly close to the seed producers environ do you run? I see the plant progress in the shift for several consecutive clonings too. It moves in a direction and then slows to remain basically the same in growth and structure patterns... There are always some minor differences in every run though. Don't you think?
 
GreenBean 420

GreenBean 420

Well-Known Member
GreenBean 420

GreenBean 420

Well-Known Member
Looking at the calendar. I do believe I should have waited until close to 3-4 weeks from transplant to start giving full strength of anything. And I also think I avoided a lot of nute burn and other issues by starting my bloom feedings at a very low dose the first week or two flower (like 2.5ml etc). Even with that low dose the added nitrogen was probably too much to be adding in when all that extra N was still available in the soil mix. Like you said though I'm using a single bloom formula so I didn't think a lot about what I was doing. This would be where experience would help me a lot haha. I have water with plain water the last two feedings. I may give them one more watering before going back to the nutes but I'll let you guys chime in. Now that the temps are back down and stable they should slow down on the uptake correct?
 
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