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Cant figure out deficiency

papa canna

papa canna

Well-Known Member
This deficiency most notably popped up right before flower. I thought I had it figured out but I don't. Leaves start Browning at edges, then the leaf starts getting less green. Brown gets more pronounced until the leaf dies

600watt HID
Grown in 1 part EWC, 1 part perlite, 1 part RO's green lite (charged peat) 2 parts SSA
Currently on week 2 of flower.
Feeding 1.5 mL per gal of DG foliage pro with 1mL per gal of protekt. Alternating protekt with calmag
Water Ph'd to 5.8 - 6.2
Feeding every 3-4 days pending. Watering without nutes every 3 or 4 waterings to prevent build up.0617171305a.jpg 0617171305.jpg
 
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Johnei

Johnei

Well-Known Member
1st pic, right most leaf tip pointing down at harsh angle, The Claw. You've got an overdose situation in my opinion.
 
papa canna

papa canna

Well-Known Member
I'm not typically that asshole who drags out threads, but I REALLY need some help here guys. I dont think i mentioned the deficiency starts at the bottom, and is very slowly working its way up. (not so slowly on the 1 stunted plant I had)
 
Xs121

Xs121

Well-Known Member
IMO its not really a classic claw, from the look of it, its leaf tip that's dying. Having said that I'm in a similar situation, luckily (hopefully) it started late of 6 weeks of 12/12. At first I thought its just a natural thing where the leaves are starting to yellow but in the next few days, it rapidly spread to the top of the plant where almost 90% of the leaves are yellowing.

I couldnt figure it out too whats causing it, ph run-off is 6.5 and im feeding all my plants the same nute, only this one have started to yellow. One of my plant is indica dom, the yellowing plant is sativa dom. The indica dom is showing ready to be chop down in 8 weeks but the sativa is still far from it (most pistils are still white and trichome is so-so and clear).

So in my mind, since this plant is looking probably 10 weeks or more, I've decided to boost the Nitrogen level to at least stayed off the leaves dying till the buds are ready to harvest. I started feeding it with grow nute, around 4-1-2 ratio. I know its crazy but wth.

Moving forward, the plant is entering its 8 weeks of 12/12. The indica is going down this week end and the yellowing sativa is still yellow but it seems the yellowing have slowed down or some of the leaves have shown some hint of green and the buds are maturing. Looks like its gonna be a 10 week plant.

Now this is for my case, on your case, its hard to tell what kind of deficiency you have but I bet its Nitrogen.

:peace:
 
papa canna

papa canna

Well-Known Member
mr sunshine said:
Probably to much water.. can you explain to me how you feed and water again?
Click to expand...
Too much water? Not a chance. It's a peat/coco mix with a lot of perlite added. I water about 1 - 1.25 gallons per 5 gallon fabric pot, every 3-4 days. Flushing with ph'd water every 3 weeks or so.

Xs121 said:
IMO its not really a classic claw, from the look of it, its leaf tip that's dying. Having said that I'm in a similar situation, luckily (hopefully) it started late of 6 weeks of 12/12. At first I thought its just a natural thing where the leaves are starting to yellow but in the next few days, it rapidly spread to the top of the plant where almost 90% of the leaves are yellowing.

I couldnt figure it out too whats causing it, ph run-off is 6.5 and im feeding all my plants the same nute, only this one have started to yellow. One of my plant is indica dom, the yellowing plant is sativa dom. The indica dom is showing ready to be chop down in 8 weeks but the sativa is still far from it (most pistils are still white and trichome is so-so and clear).

So in my mind, since this plant is looking probably 10 weeks or more, I've decided to boost the Nitrogen level to at least stayed off the leaves dying till the buds are ready to harvest. I started feeding it with grow nute, around 4-1-2 ratio. I know its crazy but wth.

Moving forward, the plant is entering its 8 weeks of 12/12. The indica is going down this week end and the yellowing sativa is still yellow but it seems the yellowing have slowed down or some of the leaves have shown some hint of green and the buds are maturing. Looks like its gonna be a 10 week plant.

Now this is for my case, on your case, its hard to tell what kind of deficiency you have but I bet its Nitrogen.

:peace:
Click to expand...
I appreciate the input, anything helps. But I would be shocked if it were nitrogen. all of my top growth, or really anything under my bottom set of leaves, is a pretty great looking green.
 
Johnei

Johnei

Well-Known Member
Transplant them into a fresh soil mix and make them nice Worm Casting compost tea soil drench will most likely fix all your problems, then water a few times and back to your feeding schedule or even another compost tea, with just worm castings and some unsulfured molasses you cannot over do it.

p.s. I would be feeding that soil mixture with pH 6.3-6.6 not below.

If plant was recently transplanted into that soil then skip the transplant and just do the tea drench/s.

edit- As long as this problem is not being caused by overwatering! Don't overwater. Worst would to be if the problem is overwatering and then you go following my instructions and do soil drench watering again compounding the problem. Please don't do that.
 
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papa canna

papa canna

Well-Known Member
BRANDON77 said:
more pics? hard to tell with just those....looked like over water to me as well.
Click to expand...
Since when does overwatering turn bottom leaves brown?

mellamojuan said:
it seems like the roots have bounded idk what you could do about that tho
Click to expand...
Very unlikely. 5 gallon pots vegged for about 5 weeks. only on week 2 of flower.

Johnei said:
Transplant them into a fresh soil mix and make them nice Worm Casting compost tea soil drench will most likely fix all your problems, then water a few times and back to your feeding schedule or even another compost tea, with just worm castings and some unsulfured molasses you cannot over do it.

p.s. I would be feeding that soil mixture with pH 6.3-6.6 not below.

If plant was recently transplanted into that soil then skip the transplant and just do the tea drench/s.

edit- As long as this problem is not being caused by overwatering! Don't overwater. Worst would to be if the problem is overwatering and then you go following my instructions and do soil drench watering again compounding the problem. Please don't do that.
Click to expand...
Good info here. Im not confident in my ability to transplant a plant this large. Their easily 5'. And in 5 gallon pots, I dont like to go any larger than that. I'm going to give a good a flush and up my water ph just a tad. I was typically feeding 5.8 - 6.0 Im going up that. I also added a small amount of lime to the mix when I planted it as well. But sunshine has a bit of lime already in it.
 
MichiganMedGrower

MichiganMedGrower

Well-Known Member
Typical potassium deficiency in my opinion.

Either needs more foliage pro or maybe the soil was not depleted enough for fertilizing yet and the calcium or mag is built up and blocking the roots of potassium.

I see this if I fertilize in ocean forest to soon or feed too light for a particular strain.

I would leach with fresh water and re apply the light dose to see.
 
MichiganMedGrower

MichiganMedGrower

Well-Known Member
The buffers in the potting mix will adjust the ph instantly. Unless water is very alkaline no need to adjust its ph.

When you leach you sort of re-set the medium by washing away the unused salts.
 
Johnei

Johnei

Well-Known Member
Lime reacts with acidic water to do this acid nuetralizing buffering action. Lime runs out when consistently feeding 5.8-6.0ish water. Anything under pH7. ;) Promix and sunshine usually run out of pH buffering capabilities at some point. ;)

If you were to feed above pH7 water into a Dolomite Lime ammended soil mixture, that Lime will sit around and not react. ;)

I beileve all deficiencies seen here are caused by a low pH condition, and continuing to feed nutrients which is driving pH down further and since things are locked out already due to incorrect low pH then adding more nutrients which just act as burning salts and don't get uptaked by the roots anyway which has burned up all the Lime and the natural peat pH is taking over. He states he feeds nutrients 3-4 times in a row, then a clean water every 3rd or 4th watering to prevent buildup, while always watering with pH 5.8-6.0.

Need to raise pH to +/- 6.5

(by any means necessary)


edit- That is a Potassium deficiency. Potassium is locked out below pH 6.
 
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