Overwatering in DWC?

[JohnDoeTho]

Idea just popped in my head.. Where the air pump is located is the surrounding air it is pumping into the bucket, placing the air pump in cool spot is good idea, if not already.

Another flaw in my setup..... I was worried about noise so my setup has the airpump in my warm room......

 

[Enigma]

Where were you when I dropped over 200 on a chiller? Lol

Working, riding my bike while thinking of ways around problems in growing and life.

Thank you Albert Hofmann!!!

 

[Enigma]

Insulation!!!

Insulation will prevent heat transfer from the res and the surrounding air as well.

 

[coreywebster]

Well if you hang around here long enough you will find out in like the over reactive first time mother(this is my first grow) and I also try to be preventative. So I've been reading about all the scares with mold and my plants are very thick and bushy, so I tried to drop humidity as a preventative to avoid mold. I had what i initially thought was mold growing on my stalk was what initially started the mold scare. Is having it that low maybe driving the leaves to absorb more water to fight the humidity? Resulting in the difference of what looked like the "over watering" symptoms of soil?

Could well be. I seem to remember something about the stomata on the leaves not opening up properly with really low RH, preventing CO2 transfer.
To be fair I don't think they look typically overwatered. Plus its not really possible as long as the water is aeriated.
Oh and if your res temps are high make that black res white.

 

[Enigma]

Could well be. I seem to remember something about the stomata on the leaves not opening up properly with really low RH, preventing CO2 transfer.
To be fair I don't think they look typically overwatered. Plus its not really possible as long as the water is aeriated.
Oh and if your res temps are high make that black res white.

~60% RH and ~75° F is a general starting point. Going a bit higher in temperature is normal for summer, lower temperatures and humidity later in flowering, ~40% RH and ~70° F with nightly temperatures below 70° F will benefit most strains.

It cannot be stressed enough to know the strain you have and the climate those genetics originated.

 

[JohnDoeTho]

Supposedly the old school cheese strain. And yea some bubble rap or insulation may not be a bad idea if I'm gonna try to ride this flower out and wait until next round for chiller. first I'll see how they look when the light comes on, if they still look sad (I know you guys said they look great lol) I'll try cutting the line to the old air stone for starters.

 

[JohnDoeTho]

It's just hard I know you guys say they look great but something is definetly off in comparison to how they have been previously. Maybe they just have been sick the whole time and finally healthy? Lol

 

[JohnDoeTho]

And if I was a over reacting mother before, knowing I'm in flower and can't get this time back makes me even more neurotic!

 

[JohnDoeTho]

~60% RH and ~75° F is a general starting point. Going a bit higher in temperature is normal for summer, lower temperatures and humidity later in flowering, ~40% RH and ~70° F with nightly temperatures below 70° F will benefit most strains.

It cannot be stressed enough to know the strain you have and the climate those genetics originated.

I had heard that and now that I was In flowering figured I'd try to drop humidity. I was at 50-55 before (in fear of mold)

 

[Enigma]

I'm only able to discern a solution from the information you provided.

IIRC, you said the only change was a second air stone and no chiller.

That would lead me to believe the problem is reservoir temperature too high, very common in DWC.

 

[JohnDoeTho]

I'm only able to discern a solution from the information you provided.

IIRC, you said the only change was a second air stone and no chiller.

That would lead me to believe the problem is reservoir temperature too high, very common in DWC.

Yea I'm really thinking the double volume of warm air is rising the tank temp more then before.

 

[Enigma]

Yea I'm really thinking the double volume of warm air is rising the tank temp more then before.

It is all too common!

My first DWC had the same problem!

Easy fix, for those motivated.

 

[JohnDoeTho]

And to think I thought I was helping.....

 

[Enigma]

Life is all about making mistakes and learning from them!

You are doing just fine!

 

[Johnei]

Just curious, what do you mean about second stone causing more warmth in there? didn't quite get that when I read it before. Do you mean because the air pump is pumping even more warm air from a hot spot where the pump is situated? curious for some clarification. Thanks. I am a sponge.

 

[Enigma]

Air pumps generate heat themselves, ambient temps are usually too high for the res.

Adding a second stone is doubling the amount of heat being pumped into the res.

 

[JohnDoeTho]

I can also move my air pump out of the room while lights on, but without doing a little alterations to the setup I wouldn't be able to keep air pump out of the room during dark and guarantee no light makes it in. In 2 hours or 9pm eastern is my lights on and I can 1. See how they are doing, and 2 if same or worse remove the air line to the first stone. That should get me back to where I was previously.

 

[JohnDoeTho]

Yea I'm sure it almost doubled the air as I have a pretty large air pump that would take advantage of the reduced pressure by using 4 stones instead of 2.

 

[JohnDoeTho]

I could probably run 2x or 3x as many buckets with my air pump.

 

[JohnDoeTho]

Just curious, what do you mean about second stone causing more warmth in there? didn't quite get that when I read it before. Do you mean because the air pump is pumping even more warm air from a hot spot where the pump is situated? curious for some clarification. Thanks. I am a sponge.

If someone had a smaller air pump that really couldn't take advantage of the extra stones then this rule would not apply as they would probably just get half the air flow from each in that case.