4 ft 70 w samsung custom aluminum pcb strips

OLD MOTHER SATIVA

Well-Known Member
i have searched for covers..there are bars that can be used though they are not IP 65 ...

i was going to get some samples but waffled..

there have been threads here a year or so ago where they sprayed things with silicone

so the RH is way high and you spray water..

the other strips you mentioned are the tape reels or the plastic semi rigid..thanks for the update

they need to be replaced because they are really crap or cannot take moisture..
 

Ryante55

Well-Known Member
those pcb strips are dope. i'm interested in finding a waterproof heatsink for
them and running them at our gourmet mushroom farm in the fruiting greenhouse.

the little flexible strip lights are garbage, and need to be replaced every 6 months.
i want a fixture that's ultra efficient and i can waterproof my self to be sure it was
done properly.

several members in the commercial mushroom grower's network have expressed
interest in such a product, so let me know when you're ready for shipping.
Chilled make waterproof lm561c boards but they don't have strips yet
 

NoFucks2Give

Well-Known Member
Why don't you just drop us that manufactures link
There are a shit load of PCB fab houses that will fab the board and assemble. The trick is quantity.

These guys have been around a long time, if I were looking in to Chinese assembly I would first look at www.raypcb.com

These guys already have many PCB's fabricated and you specify what LED you want soldered on to the PCB.

As always I highly recommend staying away from parallel strings of LEDs. Use an inexpensive load balancing circuit for the parallel strings.

For small quantity you can use solder paste in a syringe to assemble. And if the PCB fits in your oven, an oven can do a fine job of flowing the solder.

I have a double oven. I heat one to 350° F, the other to 500° F. I put the PCB in the 350° F for about 60 seconds. While in the 350° F I turn off the 500° F. After 60+ seconds I put them in the 450° F - 500° F for another 60 seconds.

The is an economy of scale. It is very possible if purchased in high enough quantity you can buy and resell and everyone can be happy. As long as the seller is not greedy and knows how to negotiate. Never take the first price. If you know someone that speaks Chinese get them to act as your purchasing agent. The point to make to the vendor is if you give me better price I can sell much more and you will make more. At this price you will only make a little bit one time. You will make nothing if find someone else soon and I am looking for a better price. Ask for quotes in 10-100X over what you want to buy. then say you first need a trial run to test quality. I had a manufacturing business for 18 years. I had my own pick and place robot to put the components on the board.
 
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NoFucks2Give

Well-Known Member
The only reason I would this LED is because it has no electrically isolated thermal pad.
When it comes to LEDs, the most important factor is thermal management.

I have a strict rule for LED purchasing criteria, the LED must have an electrically isolated thermal pad.
I then create a 100% copper thermal path from the thermal pad to the heatsink. And in my case the heatsink is copper.

These LEDs use the cathode for the thermal pad which requires an electrically insulated TIM.
I would go for the AY bin on the forward voltage. Sometimes the higher forward voltage bins have higher quantum irradiant flux. So you have to check to see if you can drop the current to of the other Vf bins to 1.7 watts and see which has the higher flux intensity at 1.7 W (AY bin x 65mA).
I would use strings of 16-17 LEDs and use a 48V or 54V power supply and keep the voltage below 50V for electrical safety code exemption.
I would also put a buck step down LED driver on the strip with a load balancer for each string of 17 LEDs (AY bin).
 

nfhiggs

Well-Known Member
Not really. The 561C in 5000K 80 CRI, AZ, S6 at 65ma is 212.6 lpw. Not much of a increase.

That is a less than one half percent increase in lumens. You could lose more lumens per watt in the driver selection.
Its a 3.48% increase. (220-212.6)/212.6 =.0348

Still not a huge increase, but it may be enough to push the 561C prices down.
 

ichabod crane

Well-Known Member
Its a 3.48% increase. (220-212.6)/212.6 =.0348

Still not a huge increase, but it may be enough to push the 561C prices down.
Yes you are right.
Still driver selection can eat that up. Say a 86% driver verses a 94% driver. That is way more wattage use than the chip. Also drive current can balance the two by running more 561 diodes at a lower current. And if the price is high on the 301 you may be able to pack your light with way more 561 diodes to eat the gain up real quick.

Anyway good catch. I is be retardo somes.
 

nfhiggs

Well-Known Member
Yes you are right.
Still driver selection can eat that up. Say a 86% driver verses a 94% driver. That is way more wattage use than the chip. Also drive current can balance the two by running more 561 diodes at a lower current. And if the price is high on the 301 you may be able to pack your light with way more 561 diodes to eat the gain up real quick.

Anyway good catch. I is be retardo somes.
I agree, not a big enough gain to get excited over, but potentially lower pricing on the 561C chips would be nice.
 

cdgmoney250

Well-Known Member
There are a shit load of PCB fab houses that will fab the board and assemble. The trick is quantity.

These guys have been around a long time, if I were looking in to Chinese assembly I would first look at www.raypcb.com

These guys already have many PCB's fabricated and you specify what LED you want soldered on to the PCB.

As always I highly recommend staying away from parallel strings of LEDs. Use an inexpensive load balancing circuit for the parallel strings.

For small quantity you can use solder paste in a syringe to assemble. And if the PCB fits in your oven, an oven can do a fine job of flowing the solder.

I have a double oven. I heat one to 350° F, the other to 500° F. I put the PCB in the 350° F for about 60 seconds. While in the 350° F I turn off the 500° F. After 60+ seconds I put them in the 450° F - 500° F for another 60 seconds.

The is an economy of scale. It is very possible if purchased in high enough quantity you can buy and resell and everyone can be happy. As long as the seller is not greedy and knows how to negotiate. Never take the first price. If you know someone that speaks Chinese get them to act as your purchasing agent. The point to make to the vendor is if you give me better price I can sell much more and you will make more. At this price you will only make a little bit one time. You will make nothing if find someone else soon and I am looking for a better price. Ask for quotes in 10-100X over what you want to buy. then say you first need a trial run to test quality. I had a manufacturing business for 18 years. I had my own pick and place robot to put the components on the board.
I appreciate the link, but I have since ordered some Bridgelux EB Strips. I was hoping for a cheaper Chinese plug on some Samsung Strips, but for time/price/convenience the EB Strips were the ticket.
 

NoFucks2Give

Well-Known Member
Have you looked at the luxeon 3535L HE seems like it's comparable to the Samsung
The big advantage to the 3535L series it has blue and red also and smaller case size 3.5 x 3.5 vs. 5.6 x 3.0
I compared the LM561C, LM301A, and 3535L HE plus at 100 and 200 mA


luxeon3535LvsLM561C_LM301A.jpg


The 3535 uses Lumiled's HE (high efficiency) Red Phosphor (see Luxeon White Paper #32, attached).
Add some 3535L Royal Blues and Reds then you can switch the reds and blues of and on or even easily adjust the current.

Strips are the perfect place to use a CCR constant current regulator. You can use a constant voltage supply with high wattage that will power all the strips.
A CCR is analogous to a dynamic current limiting resistor. The adjustable CCR is a simple economical and robust device designed to provide a cost effective solution for regulating current in LEDs.

The On-Semi CCR "Adjustable Constant Current Regulator & LED Driver" NSI45090JDT4G is adjustable from 90 mA to 160 mA which is the most efficient range for these mid power LEDs. The also have a 150mA to 350mA for higher powered LEDs. They can be connected in parallel for higher currents.

These guys are adjustable by resistance. A Fixed resistor or potentiometer.

NSI45090JDT4G.jpg

The I/O connectors are in the PCB layout footprint.

For the 3535L's I would do a 16" strip with 16 white, 16 blue, and 21 red. I would use one 90ma to 160mA CCR for each string.
The blue and red are optional. It cost nothing extra to add the red and blue footprints to the PCB. Why 21 Red and 16 blue?

For a 2' x 4" canopy I'd connect 3 16" strips end to end to make a 48" bar. Then use 4 or 5 bars. Not sure until I measure the PPFD. A 2 strip length (32") would work in a $135.00 Gorilla Grow Tent LTGGT22 Tent, 2' x 2.5' x 5'7" across the 30" width, but it would push the sides out a little. Or 1 strip length across the 24" depth.

For 5 bars that would be 240 white ($86.00) and optionally blue ($122.00) and 340 red ($175.00) to cover a 4' x 4' canopy. Prices are DigiKey or Mouser.

I have a research test board that is going through the final steps before being fabricated.
pcbLayout.jpg
It has various LED circuits on it including the CCRs.
I do have some strips with 16 White Luxeon Rebel ES using the 150-350mA CCR. The forward voltage for a strip is about 43V. The CCR's forward voltage is about 1.8V so the ideal power supply input will be about 44.8V. I always stay under 50V for electrical safety code. This PCB also has a very efficient switching CCR for 500mA to 1.5 Amp. It has some $0.20 PWM circuits (3 x $0.60) that stores the duty cycle and is programed via a single wire which is daisy chained. They can drive the dimmer pin on the switching CCR or they can drive drive 2 LEDs and the current is selected by resistance but only up to 50mA. This PWM chip is similar to the WS2811 NeoPixel LED Driver. My intervention is to support many strip dimmers with one µController and daisy-chaining all the PWM circuits with a single wire. This would be for the high powered 700ma to 2 Amp LEDs. There are also 16 LEDs that can accommodate either Cree XLamp LEDs (E.G. XP-3G) or OSRAM Olsen SSL. There is an ar3ea where some HDD-H Mean Well drivers acna be mounted and cut off the board to make a clean way to mount and LDD-H on a strip. And also some little boards for connecfting power to CoBs with a Molex Lite Trap connector, either a single or double.

Why 21 Red and 16 blue? So the strings forward voltages match. When I tested the CCR with red being driven with the same power supply the 10V difference made the red CCRs get hot. Hot is a sign of inefficiency. The do run more efficiently the cooler they are. driving the 16 white they get a little warm at 350 mA. So I added some screw holes to add a heatsink. There is a 100% copper thermal path from the thermal pad to the heatsink hole.
ccrLayout.jpg

There is also a linear and a switcher 48V to 5V regulator circuits to provide power to the PWM circuits that are driving 27 Cree CLM R,G, and B LEDs. Like a NeoPixel board to use to write the µController code. The µController is an Atmel Attiny 817, with an DAC pin to drive the current adjust pin of the high current CCR.

And last but not least is a current balancer circuit for stings of LEDs or CoBs. The test circuit has 8 outputs up to 2 amps each. That can be powered with one HLG xxx-48. This is used rather than running CoBs or strings of LEDs in parallel. Parts cost is less than $10. They can be cascaded to support any number of outputs.

If the test of the 3535 L HE Plus works out well maybe I will have some fabricated. Or if anyone is feeling entrepreneurship like, I can give you the PCB Gerber files to make your own for resale. I'm not in this for the money.

I have some Gerber files for making 12" strip PCBs for 16 Luxeon Rebel and or 16 Xlamp XP. The XLamp footprint will also work with OSRAM Olsen SSL.
 

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Keith41510

Active Member
i am a serious grower not an expert..
i learned piles here..and am grateful.. i learned alot here and from buying the estonian linear strips
please forgive the transgression of wanting to have a biz
it has taken a fair bit of work
for the last three years i have been working at getting relationships
it has taken a zillion hours..but i was polite and stuck with it
with various company's..for led panels /strips,drivers, ratchet hangers,tents,ip65
heatsinks ,non water proof ones..and mini dab rigs
again sorry..i do not think i am anybody special and do know where i came from
hope to get them sold retail so
its just a not good idea to say more



View attachment 3948233 View attachment 3948234 its just a not good idea to say more



i will assemble some 70w strip frames on this 4 x 3 ft frame and test the distance between the 8 strips....
i will grab the other frame ihave else where that will let me assemble a 4 x 4 ft grid
and try them at 500-600w for 10 strips

I sort of did same thing i screwed my aluminum strips tight together though. I scored on a storage unit filled with these.received_1756574267701304.jpeg received_1756574664367931.jpeg received_1756574661034598.jpeg received_1756574294367968.jpeg 20170522_233708.jpg 20170515_155658_HDR.jpg Screenshot_2017-03-26-16-11-49-1.png
 

OLD MOTHER SATIVA

Well-Known Member
i sent 25 of the 6" x 22" 250 w panels to a seller here from Cali to test...

he said they were 10% less efficient w for w ..than another [very popular] panel he tested..

i am getting another sample from the company this week that swore up and down it was a 561 c s6 led

but his tests seemed to show they may not have been..i have already used the 25 of 50 i bought

if you are actually interested..maybe he might sell you one/some ..

they are working good for me it probably means l needed to move it a 1/2 " closer hahaha,,..i like the size too
 

Growcob5

Active Member
I'm not an engineer and I don't know much about Pacific types of LED's like the specs of them and so forth but I'm not sure maybe with them being closer together the way they are there producing some decent product but I would assume there are some brighter chips or more suitable chips out there that could be used but maybe are not as cheap
 

Growcob5

Active Member
I would rather have a led that is 10% less sufficient then have a led that has drivers and a cheap Chinese in case then plastic you know I got a system from the extremely popular brand wanted to lower budget brands but extremely popular starts with m to be precise and they had plastic drivers they were up and down had breather holes in them which only had holes for extra wires to be pushed through and never were vented properly wood heat up so much that would drop plastic inside of itself shorting the system out
 
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