Help, can't figure this one out

BoumGreen

Member
ya man.. that's it

you don't need to spray it or add more calmag

just lower the part B 3-0-3 to 5mls when you feed

adding the 10mls as you have is pushing the K and magnesium way up and locking out your calcium
Well shit, I've been doing the same mix for a while now and its only starting to do this in the past 3 weeks...is the plant maturity causing It to need less K and mag so now it's building up in the soil?
 

whitebb2727

Well-Known Member
Well shit, I've been doing the same mix for a while now and its only starting to do this in the past 3 weeks...is the plant maturity causing It to need less K and mag so now it's building up in the soil?
Could be. Anytime you use organic amendments the soil gets better over time.
 

im4satori

Well-Known Member
Well shit, I've been doing the same mix for a while now and its only starting to do this in the past 3 weeks...is the plant maturity causing It to need less K and mag so now it's building up in the soil?
its not as much about plant maturity is about the cation or competing between potassium calcium and magnesium

the imbalance in your fertilizer mixing was mild and in a soil grow would take time to show up

also.. the way your mixing it adds a lot of N also which would likely be excessive during bloom

the part B is almost all N and K and a good portion of magnesium so it puts the K and Mg way up

so the more you add the more the K and magnesium go up and they out compete for the calcium

the amount of calcium in your mix is good... but the K and Mg are high

these three elements directly affect each other
 

BoumGreen

Member
its not as much about plant maturity is about the cation or competing between potassium calcium and magnesium

the imbalance in your fertilizer mixing was mild and in a soil grow would take time to show up

also.. the way your mixing it adds a lot of N also which would likely be excessive during bloom

the part B is almost all N and K and a good portion of magnesium so it puts the K and Mg way up

so the more you add the more the K and magnesium go up and they out compete for the calcium

the amount of calcium in your mix is good... but the K and Mg are high

these three elements directly affect each other
Ok, so in your opinion how should I mix when flowering starts? Should I buy a different product or can I get by with what I'm currently using?
 

BoumGreen

Member
I was kind of wondering if you are over doing it a bit was all.
I'm sure I'm over doing it, I just want to stay as close to the limit as I can get away with. I've been pretty successful so far but hit a slight bump in the road. I have a friend who grew 20 plants at 18 feet tall, his mix was 100L at 4000ppm a day towards middle of the growing season. Needless to say they were spotted by police helicopters and seized but how the hell can a plant take that much nutrients and not have problems?
 

im4satori

Well-Known Member
in soil

id run it the same from start to finish

if you wanted to add something to your mix id find something with numbers like this 0-10-10
anything that has no N and lots of p/k for late bloom....and no magnesium, your base fertilizer and part B are both rich in Mg which is good, but you don't need more

but it really depends on your soil and whats in it to start

if your starting soil mix is already rich in N you could just feed the mix I suggested from start to finish

if your re-using the soil and not amending it you could need more N during veg so it really just depends

but it would be pretty easy to get a little extra N if you do need it during veg with guano, fish, earth worm castings, or something like that

so again, id plan to mix it the way I suggest for the entire grow

if she asks for more N during veg get a good N source like high N guano or liquid fish

later in bloom it would be nice to boost the P/K slightly if you had a bottle that had only P&K in it
 
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BoumGreen

Member
in soil

id run it the same from start to finish

if you wanted to add something to your mix id find something with numbers like this 0-10-10
anything that has no N and lots of p/k for late bloom....and no magnesium, your base fertilizer and part B are both rich in Mg which is good, but you don't need more

but it really depends on your soil and whats in it to start

if your starting soil mix is already rich in N you could just feed the mix I suggested from start to finish

if your re-using the soil and not amending it you could need more N during veg so it really just depends

but it would be pretty easy to get a little extra n if you do need it during veg with guano, fish, earth worm castings, or something like that
If you zoom in you can see what's in this stuff. My mix is 40% Promix BX, 30% promix HP, 12% of each kind of compost and 6% perlite
 

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im4satori

Well-Known Member
for example;

if you had a P/K boost fertilizer 0-10-10 for example general hydroponics liquid kool bloom

about mid bloom or 4 weeks from harvest it mix it
per gallon
10mls base par A
5mls base part B
2mls calmag silver bottle
2mls P/K boost 0-10-10
 

im4satori

Well-Known Member
If you zoom in you can see what's in this stuff. My mix is 40% Promix BX, 30% promix HP, 12% of each kind of compost and 6% perlite
id ont know about the mircle grow

as a rule its usually a brand that most avoid, but that particular product might be ok since its organic... I just don't know

the EWC are good
 

BoumGreen

Member
Ya, I was hesitant but I did a lot of research and it didn't seem to be bad. I mean look at the plants, something is working lol. But thanks a lot for your advice, I'm still new to this and this is my first serious grow. I've got other questions about trimming the bottom growth that doesn't get much sunlight.
 

im4satori

Well-Known Member
you might ask around about soil mix
I have a lot of experience in hydro and with fertilizers but
im new to building my own soil mixes since I just recently switched to organic soil from hydro

my soil mix is;

5 gallons peat
5 gallons compost
5 gallons perlite

2.5 cups lime

and I add additional amendments in replace of liquid fertilizers

8 cups rock dust and or 2 cups azomite

5 cups mix
combined mix
2 part kelp meal
1 part crab meal
1 part neem cake
1 part alfalfa meal
1/2 part fish meal
1/2 part fishbone meal

cook 6 weeks before using

so far so good 9 weeks veg and im 1/3 into bloom with little to nothing but water

I might leave out the fish meal next time
 

im4satori

Well-Known Member
Ya, I was hesitant but I did a lot of research and it didn't seem to be bad. I mean look at the plants, something is working lol. But thanks a lot for your advice, I'm still new to this and this is my first serious grow. I've got other questions about trimming the bottom growth that doesn't get much sunlight.
she looks damn good
 

BoumGreen

Member
you might ask around about soil mix
I have a lot of experience in hydro and with fertilizers but
im new to building my own soil mixes since I just recently switched to organic soil from hydro

my soil mix is;

5 gallons peat
5 gallons compost
5 gallons perlite

2.5 cups lime

and I add additional amendments in replace of liquid fertilizers

8 cups rock dust and or 2 cups azomite

5 cups mix
combined mix
2 part kelp meal
1 part crab meal
1 part neem cake
1 part alfalfa meal
1/2 part fish meal
1/2 part fishbone meal

cook 6 weeks before using

so far so good 9 weeks veg and im 1/3 into bloom with little to nothing but water

I might leave out the fish meal next time
Wow your on a whole different level hahah. Next year I'm going to do a more advanced mix so that I don't have to spend as much on liquid fertilizer. My biggest plant is in a 20gal container but at 5feet plus the height of the container it was starting to be visible from over the fence.I buried it 90% and started bending and I'm getting good results but now I don't know what to do about the branches that are almost touching the ground
 

im4satori

Well-Known Member
I grow indoors so its a bit different
from the bottom
but if its hanging on the ground id cut it off
if its not getting enough light to remain healthy id cut it off
if its spindley thin growth that's not going to amount to much, id cut it off

if it looks healthy, and its not dragging on the ground, Id leave it
 

im4satori

Well-Known Member
ya im also using 20 gallon pots filled about 15 gallons full and I transplant from a 5 gallon pot to fill the 20 gallons +/-
 

BoumGreen

Member
ya im also using 20 gallon pots filled about 15 gallons full and I transplant from a 5 gallon pot to fill the 20 gallons +/-
I've been bending the plant so branches on one side are reaching for the sky and the ones on the bent side are starting to come out and up as well. I know that it helps light penetrate so theoretically I should get higher yield than if I let it grow straight. Any thoughts?
 

im4satori

Well-Known Member
well im an indoor guy and its much different so I cant say with out door experience but im willing to give my thoughts for what there worth

I try to remove what doesn't get light penetration from the bulb over head... and I don't remove fan leaves in most cases unless theyre un healthy

some people do it to get air flow but again outdoors shouldn't have this issue as much as in door

outdoors you get light from all directions not just from a bulb over head

so there should be less need to do things like defoliate

as she gets later into the season she will stretch out and the distance between fan leaves will grow
 

BoumGreen

Member
well im an indoor guy and its much different so I cant say with out door experience but im willing to give my thoughts for what there worth

I try to remove what doesn't get light penetration from the bulb over head... and I don't remove fan leaves in most cases unless theyre un healthy

some people do it to get air flow but again outdoors shouldn't have this issue as much as in door

outdoors you get light from all directions not just from a bulb over head

so there should be less need to do things like defoliate

as she gets later into the season she will stretch out and the distance between fan leaves will grow
Ok thanks again man
 
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