Help, can't figure this one out

Johnei

Well-Known Member
My guess is what you are feeding is beginning to build up in the soil and pH is getting 'skewed' out of range due to the initial dolomite lime ph buffering dose in the promix base you used is diminshed, but not enough yet to cause any serious issues because the plant is just so strong and is dealing with it, and compost is low quality and mostly acidic as well. I would recommend a full complete light dusting of dolomite lime powder all over the plant base and clean water only at least a few times.
 

whitebb2727

Well-Known Member
I'm sure I'm over doing it, I just want to stay as close to the limit as I can get away with. I've been pretty successful so far but hit a slight bump in the road. I have a friend who grew 20 plants at 18 feet tall, his mix was 100L at 4000ppm a day towards middle of the growing season. Needless to say they were spotted by police helicopters and seized but how the hell can a plant take that much nutrients and not have problems?
Why not go with some more organic amendments?
images.jpg 10 bucks for 8 pounds. Use little each month in the top of the soil.
51aKkU3LrKL._SL500_AC_SS350_.jpg
This has all the popular meals like kelp and alfalfa. Good stuff.

Both have good time release inputs. I use the Espoma.
0424172250c.jpg
Dial them in and its water only and add a little about once a month.
 
Last edited:

BoumGreen

Member
I'm not gonna lie, I got lazy and was tight on cash so I got that stuff hoping it would be good enough. Next year will be a better mix, but as for nutrient buildup it's possible but I give nutrients 4-5 times then just water for 2. I'm going to try a flush on my next feeding
 

Johnei

Well-Known Member
There should be no schedule of feeding, feed when they need it, water every other time. Soil holds onto nutrients releasing to the plant as the plant requires, can always add more, taking away excess is big problem in soil, as I said, soil holds onto nutrients, some very tightly, others wash out with ease. Flushing destroys balance most of the time, not restores it.
 

Johnei

Well-Known Member
Watering with clean water only until it is no longer necessary and they are hungry for fertilizer again works better than flushing, in soil.
 

BoumGreen

Member
Ok, I just assumed that because of the size of the plants it would need more nutrients but I'll try it your way and see how that goes. Thanks a lot
 

Johnei

Well-Known Member
if nutrients were just overall low, not any one specific mineral, just the overall entire feed is low, the entire plant would go paler green and bottom leaves would start yellowing and dieing off as it uses those leaves to feed its hunger sacrificing them to live on.

All nutrients are salts. Salts are acidic. This drives the medium pH down. High level of functioning organics and life in the soil, combined with ph buffering substances like Dolomite Lime, which is added to promix for an initial charge for initial plant growth keeps the pH in check no matter what the pH of your source water is, but salts impede microbe function, and Dol.Lime only lasts so long, and your plants are big.. acid is constantly being neutralized using up the dolomite lime power to correct pH back up to soil range until there is no more pH buffering dolomite lime effect and soil takes on it's natural peat base pH, which is very acidic by the way. You get weird deficiencies, burns, twisted/curled leaves. This is not the plant in need of something, it's the plant being unable to feed on what is there at it's feet, and what is there is all interacting and acting as salts without any plant uptake, and then more nutrients are added, compounding the problem. Antagonistic, not deficient.

So which do you think you have, considering you feed 4-5 times nutrients in a row, and are starting to get weird spots/burns showing some kind of deficiency, but how a deficiency? you feed feed feed feed feed? Are the plant's just THAT hungry.. then feed them.. but if you're wrong.. u-oH for all the reasons stated above.

What I suggested stands, just explaining my brain process. I could be wrong, after all, I'm just going by some pics of some very healthy super duper plants.. adding more is no big deal as time goes on.. taking away is PITA..

:joint:
 

BoumGreen

Member
if nutrients were just overall low, not any one specific mineral, just the overall entire feed is low, the entire plant would go paler green and bottom leaves would start yellowing and dieing off as it uses those leaves to feed its hunger sacrificing them to live on.

All nutrients are salts. Salts are acidic. This drives the medium pH down. High level of functioning organics and life in the soil, combined with ph buffering substances like Dolomite Lime, which is added to promix for an initial charge for initial plant growth keeps the pH in check no matter what the pH of your source water is, but salts impede microbe function, and Dol.Lime only lasts so long, and your plants are big.. acid is constantly being neutralized using up the dolomite lime power to correct pH back up to soil range until there is no more pH buffering dolomite lime effect and soil takes on it's natural peat base pH, which is very acidic by the way. You get weird deficiencies, burns, twisted/curled leaves. This is not the plant in need of something, it's the plant being unable to feed on what is there at it's feet, and what is there is all interacting and acting as salts without any plant uptake, and then more nutrients are added, compounding the problem. Antagonistic, not deficient.

So which do you think you have, considering you feed 4-5 times nutrients in a row, and are starting to get weird spots/burns showing some kind of deficiency, but how a deficiency? you feed feed feed feed feed? Are the plant's just THAT hungry.. then feed them.. but if you're wrong.. u-oH for all the reasons stated above.

What I suggested stands, just explaining my brain process. I could be wrong, after all, I'm just going by some pics of some very healthy super duper plants.. adding more is no big deal as time goes on.. taking away is PITA..

:joint:
They could use a break from the nutrients I'm sure, I'm going to only water until I see a little yellowing and then feed it again and see how that goes. You make great sense so I'm going to give it a shot. The medium has Mycorrhizae, will that help at all with PH?
 

im4satori

Well-Known Member
ya I have to agree

if your feeding that frequently its likely much and also adding to that a high K fertilizer ratio

ph imbalance could also be a factor... did you lime the original mix and have you ever checked the ph?

lime would add calcium also if you have a ph issue kill two birds with one stone ... do you have a way to check the ph?

having said all that I still say your plant looks great
 

BoumGreen

Member
ya I have to agree

if your feeding that frequently its likely much and also adding to that a high K fertilizer ratio

ph imbalance could also be a factor... did you lime the original mix and have you ever checked the ph?

lime would add calcium also if you have a ph issue kill two birds with one stone ... do you have a way to check the ph?

having said all that I still say your plant looks great
I didn't add any lime and I don't know really how to check the ph of the soil other than to measure the ph of the water that comes out the bottom when watering
 

im4satori

Well-Known Member
Why not go with some more organic amendments?
View attachment 3981034 10 bucks for 8 pounds. Use little each month in the top of the soil.
View attachment 3981035
This has all the polar meals like kelp and alfalfa. Good stuff.

Both have good time release inputs. I use the Espoma.
View attachment 3981037
Dial them in and its water only and add a little about once a month.
ya that's less work than what im doing but I like mixing it up like a mad scientist I guess lol

im slowly trying to wrap my brain around no-till
 

Johnei

Well-Known Member
a light dusting of dolomite lime powder, scratched in the dirt, every ~3weeks, should help if you indeed do have a acidic soil condition impeding nutrient uptake beginning now or in the future.

Measure water pH out the bottom, knowing what the water pH going in is. This will tell you for the most part what's up with the pH in the potted soil mix.

(pH is driven by the acidic nutrient concoctions we feed, pH is not just pH, so if the water coming out the bottom is in the acidic pH 5 range, then it's not just the water you feed not pHing or wrong pH or anything like that, it's that you fed/feed too much fertilizers which drove pH down in the medium and only clean waterings from now on will help to restore proper plant nutrient uptake and balance.)
 

Johnei

Well-Known Member
A transplant to a fresh same soil mix bigger pot with small amount of added dolomite lime will take care of all your problems also, if this is an option. Just idea for you.

--(In soil, if I'm not in the already monster last biggest size pot I can use, and I have weird issues that I don't want to be chasing for weeks, a transplant to fresh soil is always the most effective solution.)
 
Last edited:

whitebb2727

Well-Known Member
I'm not gonna lie, I got lazy and was tight on cash so I got that stuff hoping it would be good enough. Next year will be a better mix, but as for nutrient buildup it's possible but I give nutrients 4-5 times then just water for 2. I'm going to try a flush on my next feeding
That 8 pound bag of Espoma will last a long time. For a plant that size it might only need a couple table spoons or little more each month for 10 bucks.

I get it though. I would just cut back a little. I would give it N until at least stretch is over. Not mad much but still give it.
 

whitebb2727

Well-Known Member
ya that's less work than what im doing but I like mixing it up like a mad scientist I guess lol

im slowly trying to wrap my brain around no-till
You won't go back. I mean I still use salt based nutrients on some outdoor plants.

My guerilla plants it makes sense to use something that feeds for a month
 
Top