Help, can't figure this one out

im4satori

Well-Known Member
got my worm bins working away but haven't yet harvested any
I could harvest now but im going to wait until my next soil enrichment and add it in then... trying to decide if I should just go ahead and toss the worms in the pots with the castings and get some straw for cover
 

tpc_mikey

Well-Known Member
Why not go with some more organic amendments?
View attachment 3981034 10 bucks for 8 pounds. Use little each month in the top of the soil.
View attachment 3981035
This has all the popular meals like kelp and alfalfa. Good stuff.

Both have good time release inputs. I use the Espoma.
View attachment 3981037
Dial them in and its water only and add a little about once a month.
What i use all espoma products in my soil, i use there kelp meal, bat guano, tomato tone, and dolomite lime. actually use that garden tone outdoors on my tomatos. Here is my girl 21 days into 12/12IMG_0031.JPG
 

BoumGreen

Member
Ok so I'm going to put dolomite lime today and then water with plain water. How much should I put? I know you guys said to sprinkle it but can anyone give me an idea quantity wise?
 

BoumGreen

Member
id check your ph to see where your at and then maybe you can get some advise on how much to add
Only my smallest plant is ready to be watered today, which is good because I can catch the runoff easier but I'm not sure it will be the same as the bigger ones but it does have orange spots too so if I find a PH imbalance then it'll most likely be the same with the other 2
 

im4satori

Well-Known Member
to give you an example;

I built my own soil

15 gallons I added 2 cups lime

after 4 weeks of sitting I transplanted in to the soil but my ph was 5.5 to 5.8 depending on which plant I checked

I top dressed and scratched in another 4 to 6oz per plant/per 15 gallon pot and about 2 weeks later it came up to 6.5 to 6.8
 

BoumGreen

Member
to give you an example;

I built my own soil

15 gallons I added 2 cups lime

after 4 weeks of sitting I transplanted in to the soil but my ph was 5.5 to 5.8 depending on which plant I checked

I top dressed and scratched in another 4 to 6oz per plant/per 15 gallon pot and about 2 weeks later it came up to 6.5 to 6.8
Ok so I'll see what my soil ph is for my 5 gallon and I'll conservatively scale up what's needed for the 10 gallon and 20 gallon... I am not able to check the ph of my 20 gallon because It's buried in the ground lol. If problems continue with it I'll have no choice but to dig it up, clean the outside of the container then check the PH
 

im4satori

Well-Known Member
Ok so I'll see what my soil ph is for my 5 gallon and I'll conservatively scale up what's needed for the 10 gallon and 20 gallon... I am not able to check the ph of my 20 gallon because It's buried in the ground lol. If problems continue with it I'll have no choice but to dig it up, clean the outside of the container then check the PH
are you using the liquid drop kit to check the ph?

I think you can fill the plastic tube with maybe 20% soil, water and add drops and shake

maybe someone else can confirm this to be true
 

BoumGreen

Member
are you using the liquid drop kit to check the ph?

I think you can fill the plastic tube with maybe 20% soil, water and add drops and shake

maybe someone else can confirm this to be true
No im using a PH pen, I do have a plastic tube kit but I've heard that that's not an accurate way of checking
 

Johnei

Well-Known Member
to check pH of soil, you can dig up some from as close to center of plant root mass as you're willing to go and mix it up with some ro or distilled water, then check the pH of that solution. No need to dig up 20gal pot.. LOLOLOLOLOLOLOLOLOL!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

I would stop focusing on pH and just be careful not to overfeed fertilizers, as the excess fertilizers is what drives pH fluctuations and imbalances and in a healthy soil, with added dolomite lime or not, with acidic soil or not, the soil and microbes will buffer the pH for proper plant uptake and eventually with good watering practices and not over fertilizing the soil will take care of itself. You should read my first few posts to you in here. I mention pH information, but your problem is not pH, I did not mean for you to focus on pH only now, this is not the cause, this is the effect, the cause is fertilizer applications.
 

BoumGreen

Member
to check pH of soil, you can dig up some from as close to center of plant root mass as you're willing to go and mix it up with some ro or distilled water, then check the pH of that solution. No need to dig up 20gal pot.. LOLOLOLOLOLOLOLOLOL!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

I would stop focusing on pH and just be careful not to overfeed fertilizers, as the excess fertilizers is what drives pH fluctuations and imbalances and in a healthy soil, with added dolomite lime or not, with acidic soil or not, the soil and microbes will buffer the pH for proper plant uptake and eventually with good watering practices and not over fertilizing the soil will take care of itself. You should read my first few posts to you in here. I mention pH information, but your problem is not pH, I did not mean for you to focus on pH only now, this is not the cause, this is the effect, the cause is fertilizer applications.
Seeing as how far I've come with relatively no problems I'm sure your right. I'm taking your advice with feeding because after taking to more and more people it's clear that I was over feeding. The whole Ph issue is superficial but it has me concerned because I've never once tried to check the soil PH and i haven't added any lime at all and I'm worried that whatever is in the soil buffering the PH isn't working as hard as it has been because I've been feeding them the same way since may 22nd and only now I'm seeing signs of trouble
 

im4satori

Well-Known Member
Seeing as how far I've come with relatively no problems I'm sure your right. I'm taking your advice with feeding because after taking to more and more people it's clear that I was over feeding. The whole Ph issue is superficial but it has me concerned because I've never once tried to check the soil PH and i haven't added any lime at all and I'm worried that whatever is in the soil buffering the PH isn't working as hard as it has been because I've been feeding them the same way since may 22nd and only now I'm seeing signs of trouble
took the words out of my mouth

your plants look good

I feel like were talking as if they don't when they look great

at this point where talking about tweaking minor things, more in conversation

I think knowing the ph would set your mind at ease and rule that out moving forward if something happen down the road
 

BoumGreen

Member
I'm going to try the distilled water trick for fun to see what that says. I'll try different concentrations of soil to water to see if it fluctuates
 

im4satori

Well-Known Member
also

the part B 3-0-3 was adding a lot of N and K and magnesium

the reduction of that to 5mls alone should take the heat out of the mix and make it safe

so maybe water only for a week to 10 days and then go back to the fertilizer every other only mixed the way I suggested

if you get a p/k booster hit me back up with the % info so I can help you figure out how much to add
 

Johnei

Well-Known Member
the light sprinkle/dusting of some dol.lime powder on the soil surface scratched in is just a sort of protection for you against pH issues during this ?q? time and can't cause harm to those beasts, in case what you're thinking is true, and pH buffering ability has diminished since the beginning.. ya know. and some clean watering a bunch of times for now and do some pH testing around the farm. :)
 

BoumGreen

Member
took the words out of my mouth

your plants look good

I feel like were talking as if they don't when they look great

at this point where talking about tweaking minor things, more in conversation

I think knowing the ph would set your mind at ease and rule that out moving forward if something happen down the road
I'm doing this to learn. Ive come this far by a little trial and error (mostly error), by talking to friends and a lot of reading... I feel like asking for help on here is the next step and I'll learn what I need to know
 

Johnei

Well-Known Member
(The larger a plant gets, the more pathways and cellular storage space there is for nutrients in the tissue up top all over and in the root mass, so larger plants need less nutrients a lot of the time as their 'storage fuel tank' is larger and longer lasting as they get older/bigger. just sayin..)
 

BoumGreen

Member
the light sprinkle/dusting of some dol.lime powder on the soil surface scratched in is just a sort of protection for you against pH issues during this ?q? time and can't cause harm to those beasts, in case what you're thinking is true, and pH buffering ability has diminished since the beginning.. ya know. and some clean watering a bunch of times for now and do some pH testing around the farm. :)
Since the spots have appeared super slowly I'm assuming I'm not mixing it too hot but I'm right about due for a bit of a cleaning. I'm going to water with plain ph'd rain water for the next 2 weeks or until i start seeing a little bit of lightening in the leaves
 

BoumGreen

Member
(The larger a plant gets, the more pathways and cellular storage space there is for nutrients in the tissue up top all over and in the root mass, so larger plants need less nutrients a lot of the time as their 'storage fuel tank' is larger and longer lasting as they get older/bigger. just sayin..)
See, now that's news to me... and not at all obvious, I'll have to do a lot more research haha
 
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