Cola's big citi lights

Colanoscopy

Colanoscopy

Well-Known Member
xX_BHMC_Xx said:
Yo man, here you go. I don't have the newest version of the Gen 6 calc that includes the 1216s, but everything else should be the same.
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B5kkXBz2GIknN0F3bVczWExheVE/view?usp=sharing
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B5kkXBz2GIknVS1MOV9VWnd5MGc/view?usp=sharing
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Nice one bro. Just needed to be able to make sense of a few numbers myself. It's hard to figure out the shit that's measured at 1080ma when I'm only running 700 though. If you could shed any light that be great haha
 
xX_BHMC_Xx

xX_BHMC_Xx

Well-Known Member
Glad I can help! The drop down box top left will let you pick your color temp and CRI (not really important for your purposes). Enter your drive current and boom, it gives you voltage, luminous flux, and lm/w. Adjust Tc to see what your actual power will be once the chips heat up. Use Tc 25C to spec your driver though.
 
berten-ernie420

berten-ernie420

Well-Known Member
You used an A/C ammeter on a dc cob build? Im sorry for asking but i like the idea of knowing what the run current n such is on my upcoming cob rail build. How did you wire that up? As its labeled on the back? Positive and negative on the back coming from driver? Leads going to the string of cobs? In series or parallel? How are you going to wire up the fan speed controller and wheres the setpoints your using for the thermometer leads? Im lost when it comes to something like this so if u might be able to shed some light on that itd surely help me out mate.
 
xX_BHMC_Xx

xX_BHMC_Xx

Well-Known Member
berten-ernie420 said:
You used an A/C ammeter on a dc cob build? Im sorry for asking but i like the idea of knowing what the run current n such is on my upcoming cob rail build. How did you wire that up? As its labeled on the back? Positive and negative on the back coming from driver? Leads going to the string of cobs? In series or parallel? How are you going to wire up the fan speed controller and wheres the setpoints your using for the thermometer leads? Im lost when it comes to something like this so if u might be able to shed some light on that itd surely help me out mate.
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Cola I'll step in here...
The meter gets wired to the AC side of the driver, not the DC side. This is really convenient when you're running multiple drivers or high voltage, but you have to factor in about 6% driver loss to your wattage. There are different styles, but they all have wiring labeled on the back.
 
Colanoscopy

Colanoscopy

Well-Known Member
berten-ernie420 said:
You used an A/C ammeter on a dc cob build? Im sorry for asking but i like the idea of knowing what the run current n such is on my upcoming cob rail build. How did you wire that up? As its labeled on the back? Positive and negative on the back coming from driver? Leads going to the string of cobs? In series or parallel? How are you going to wire up the fan speed controller and wheres the setpoints your using for the thermometer leads? Im lost when it comes to something like this so if u might be able to shed some light on that itd surely help me out mate.
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@xX_BHMC_Xx forgot to answer the question of the fan speed controller. I will be using a meanwell apv12-12 driver to power the controller. And subsequently this will power the fans. This will be wired in parallel on the AC side. As for temperature probes. I am just gonna go for mid heatsink next to a cob to get a relative temperature. (I've had it on for a good while testing. And I can safely say there is no issue with heat even as passive sinks) hope we managed to answer what you needed to know bro and good luck with your build.
 
coreywebster

coreywebster

Well-Known Member
So did your driver come from Estonia and what was the price? Apologies if I missed that, just been catching up on the earlier pages.
 
Colanoscopy

Colanoscopy

Well-Known Member
coreywebster said:
So did your driver come from Estonia and what was the price? Apologies if I missed that, just been catching up on the earlier pages.
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I still have the driver I ordered from Estonia in a drawer in my bedroom mate. Was 144 quid. I ended up buying the 320h c700a from mouser in the US for 113 quid with free shipping bro. I'd recommend Estonia man for the cobs and holders but I'd go elsewhere for the driver. No worries either the only daft question is one not asked
 
coreywebster

coreywebster

Well-Known Member
Colanoscopy said:
I still have the driver I ordered from Estonia in a drawer in my bedroom mate. Was 144 quid. I ended up buying the 320h c700a from mouser in the US for 113 quid with free shipping bro. I'd recommend Estonia man for the cobs and holders but I'd go elsewhere for the driver. No worries either the only daft question is one not asked
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I think I bought some Cobs from that same Estonian guy. They are sat waiting for me to build a veg light for a mate. Cant remember the clu but they are older and smaller than 1212s. One day I will finish it for him.
If I ever need a driver like that I will give you a shout. Unless you have sent it back already. Right now I wouldn't be able to put it to use.

BTW as you said in the other thread, my light might blow your out of the water with the wattage but it doesnt come close to yours on build quality. Props to ya man, it looks awesome and the added extras really make it an excellent build.

For what its worth if you ever find the need for some meanwell buck drivers 700mA or some Ac/Ac power supplies. Give me a holla. I have a box full that I was going to use to build mono light before they folks on here educated me on efficiency and Cobs. They will be sat in a draw too. If ever you think you might need any just say, free of charge for the bucks. Same goes for any other UK guys (who are known members)
 
Colanoscopy

Colanoscopy

Well-Known Member
coreywebster said:
I think I bought some Cobs from that same Estonian guy. They are sat waiting for me to build a veg light for a mate. Cant remember the clu but they are older and smaller than 1212s. One day I will finish it for him.
If I ever need a driver like that I will give you a shout. Unless you have sent it back already. Right now I wouldn't be able to put it to use.

BTW as you said in the other thread, my light might blow your out of the water with the wattage but it doesnt come close to yours on build quality. Props to ya man, it looks awesome and the added extras really make it an excellent build.

For what its worth if you ever find the need for some meanwell buck drivers 700mA or some Ac/Ac power supplies. Give me a holla. I have a box full that I was going to use to build mono light before they folks on here educated me on efficiency and Cobs. They will be sat in a draw too. If ever you think you might need any just say, free of charge for the bucks. Same goes for any other UK guys (who are known members)
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Aren't the buck converters one thing would make a viable build out of my drawer driver? (it's still very much in the drawer and too late to return it...... I forgot... The bloody Mrs hasn't since haha) I've got a mate that wants me to build him a little light for his closet grow. (he burnt up a chocolate kush and c99 when we had a heatwave under a bare 400hps)
And appreciate that in regards to build quality. Always think if you're gonna do something may aswell do it proper
 
ttystikk

ttystikk

Well-Known Member
Colanoscopy said:
Aren't the buck converters one thing would make a viable build out of my drawer driver? (it's still very much in the drawer and too late to return it...... I forgot... The bloody Mrs hasn't since haha) I've got a mate that wants me to build him a little light for his closet grow. (he burnt up a chocolate kush and c99 when we had a heatwave under a bare 400hps)
And appreciate that in regards to build quality. Always think if you're gonna do something may aswell do it proper
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I think you should build your mate that light. Then both he and your Mrs will thank you!
 
Colanoscopy

Colanoscopy

Well-Known Member
ttystikk said:
I think you should build your mate that light. Then both he and your Mrs will thank you!
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I plan on doing but I know he literally wants something like a hlg185h c700a and 4 1212s. So I'd be spending more still.

Plus there's a £4k Dint happening to my pocket for a suzuki gsxr 125 lol
 
Colanoscopy

Colanoscopy

Well-Known Member
ttystikk said:
Busa's are too big. You still want something that will handle.

What's wrong with getting the full license?
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Time mate and money. Why pay for training to then pay more money to run and insure a bigger bike?

125 quid buys you a cbt. That's good for 2 years on the road.

Literally just my best options at the minute

Edit: I wouldn't really have the busa. That would be instadeath for me I can assure you..... Maybe to look at I'd have one and sit on with the engine off..... I'd probably still fall off then)
 
coreywebster

coreywebster

Well-Known Member
Them Gsxr's are what put me off going on the back of bikes. My mate used to have a 750 I think it was, back when it was the fastest bike on the road. He was a loon. They were horrible as a passenger, couldn't fit both hands on the handle so it was two fingers each holding on for dear life as he wheelied down the motorway at 120mph.. Scared the shit out of me. He wrapped it round a car the week later, it was so bent both wheels were nearly touching. ..

The bucks, if that's the correct term for them are Dc-Dc , not ac-ac like I said. Possible they would work with that driver. I havnt got round to using them because they are the pin type rather than wired, plus it would take a lot of wires since there would be one LDD per Cob and then linked to the 250w meanwell power supplys. Considering using some for some side lighting with some of those Samsung strips. No rush for that though. I think I have 30x LDDs and 6x power supplies. They look nice in the packaging bongsmilie

 
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