New to microbes need some help.

[Gumdrawp]

So I know I'm taking the easy way out and not brewing a tea for now but I need something simple for the meantime until I can set up a space to brew, which includes building an entire new room at the same time.

Now I'm looking to specifically include 3 products that a few grower friends of mine have spoken highly about and I'm not sure how to go about adding them to my feeding schedule.

Heavy 16 prime - the big draw for me here is I understand it works similar to AN's ph perfect has silica and feeds microbes. All 3 of my friends swore by this stuff and I find a lot of rave reviews online as well.

Orca innoculant - again all 3 of them told me about using this at one point or another to great effect, especially in hydro or before they started brewing teas.

Cannazym - this one I'm a little less sure of, I've been reading great things online and one of my friends used it before in a coco grow I believe and he said he was impressed but unsure if it was better/worse than hygrozyme or some of the other enzymes around.

Right now I'm running the full fox farms line plus calimagic. So far im not a fan but decided to try because i got a good deal on them. ill be switching to probably floranova bloom as lucas formula next grow or to the at least the heavy 16 bases and fire + prime. I'm not a fan of foliar sprays though (my fiance "helps" in the garden and has roasted them by spraying like 2 hours into the light cycle and also has made a hot mix once or twice) so I'm not sure if cal mag would mess with the heavy 16 line -- I've seen a few claim you shouldn't do it.

Mostly I'm just curious how I might work this into the FF feeding schedule. Prime obviously has a decent amount of K in it so should I cut back on some of the additives beyond their base trio or not worry about it and just start at half strength and up it until the plants look like they're starting to burn and back down a bit? Also I'm not sure how the enzymes are going to affect any of this either.

Also if it makes any difference I've got a UC system about 90% assembled and will be switching from soil to that in the near future (1-2 months) after I finish a test grow to work out any kinks before going to a larger system. This is also why I'm building a new room, I've been a tent grower for a bit now and UC in a tent(would be a 4x just doesn't seem to be a good fit, too much rigid equipment to deal with in a small area. It also seems like it would get too crammed for me to tend to plants easily and for the price of a 10x10 I might as well finally build a sealed room and stop fighting the environment as much.

Thanks ahead of time for any input, it's greatly appreciated. Feel free to correct me if I was misinformed too.

 

[Cx2H]

Great white, mykos, mammoth P, etc

What that sheet costs you can set up a brewing station with mushroom compost, worm castings, green compost enough to brew for year's.

Nothing wrong misting into light cycle. Hot N is what burns sheet. Ca Mg misting once a week is a good thing.

Expensive nute lines are retarded.
They make complete one part dry mixes at 80% less. 2 bags plus some Kelp and Epsom salt life is good.

Microbiology will not like synthetic salts at all and kinda a waste.

Advertisement is your enemy.

 

[Gumdrawp]

Great white, mykos, mammoth P, etc

What that sheet costs you can set up a brewing station with mushroom compost, worm castings, green compost enough to brew for year's.

Nothing wrong misting into light cycle. Hot N is what burns sheet. Ca Mg misting once a week is a good thing.

Expensive nute lines are retarded.
They make complete one part dry mixes at 80% less. 2 bags plus some Kelp and Epsom salt life is good.

Microbiology will not like synthetic salts at all and kinda a waste.

Advertisement is your enemy.

Good to know about the N and misting, really only had issues twice with misting. once was our fault completely, our first grow it got mixed way hot--think like 2tbs instead of .5tsp and I'm pretty sure it wasn't ph'd at all and I assume it base killed a ton of foliage. The second she mustve mixed extra nutes with it somehow then. But losing like 70% of my foliage in 2 grows was offputting to say the least.

As far as the synthetic salts and microbiology not meshing - what's a better way to go then? Swap the orca for some sort of enzyme, or something that promotes root growth? Root growth is especially important to me right now as I got some transplanted clones from a friend that I suspect brought some fungus gnats right before I flushed all my plants. It was a combination of stupidity on my part and bad timing but I didn't dip or spray them and they spread to my plants too. I caught it fairly early on before much damage was done but since the larva eat the roots and I know mine are struggling a bit right now I'd like to try to do something.

 

[Cx2H]

Fungus gnats are from over wet medium. Dry it out more they will leave.

Bacteria will eat the egg's and leave.

If you don't wanna brew. Try great white. It has myco, bacteria and trichoderma.

Apply it every water until weekish 2 of flower then just cannazym if you got it.

If you were organic I would say add it GW maybe 3 times max..
Brewing tea is easier than you think, but later.

Now you don't want to over water but also not go dry either. Micros don't like that to much. Honestly it's hard to keep a microherd optimal in less than 7 g pots.

Liquid seaweed, GW, black strap molasses, Epsom salts. Makes plants happy

Im fuxin hung over still so I'm sure sheet is missing.

Amazon has GW for 23$ish, hydro store is 40-50$
Gallon of molasses is 13-19$ on A etc.

 

[Gumdrawp]

I'm in Michigan so gw is pretty cheap here but amazon still is better. Also I think that orca and great white have the same microbes orca is just liquid? Not sure if the liquid makes a difference or not. Also the expiration date on this orca is like 3 or 4 months from now. I'm pretty sure I'll end up using this before then but is the 10% viability/year degradation accurate?

And I am in 7g pots right now, the plants were about a week after transplant when the gnats hit. We flushed and then didn't get a chance to check on them for a few days. Fiance had to go to the hospital due to some complications with her kidneys, the dehumidifier filled and the gnats blew up, came back and neemed the entire basement basically and have been drying since. Just was trying to prepare to recover from the damage they caused, and I'm really looking to drop fox farms, too many issues with essentially everything besides their base nutes.

When you say not too wet but not too dry I usually go by weight of the pot in soil, but generally my first 2 inches or so is barely moist or dry when I water which hasn't caused any problems yet. Will this be close enough to what they need? I'm not a fan of waiting for my plants to get super thirsty as is.

 

[Cx2H]

Yeah the orca is fine and should be good as far as shelf life. I tend to use dry products more because you get more and lasts longer.

Wetness wise sounds like you are on top of it. Saturated fist couple of inches is where they hang out. Long as roots stay moist under that you are good.

Seems like you're on point so good luck and we are here to help when ever you need it.

Hope the Mr's gets well soon. Take care

 

[Cx2H]

Btw if the gnats don't go away and spread they have found a protein source to feed on, drains, faucets etc with sugars of sort or waste. Get rid of sources and they starve.

 

[Gumdrawp]

Btw if the gnats don't go away and spread they have found a protein source to feed on, drains, faucets etc with sugars of sort or waste. Get rid of sources and they starve.

Shes back home now, doing much better. Yeah I have 2 floor drains I'm going to need to keep an eye on. I already shut the water off the to the toilet and drained it since we don't use it anyways. It's across the basement and sealed off but I wanted to be safe anyways. My grandfather owned a farm and he always warned me about stagnant water being a breeding ground for "nothing good"

 

[SwitchHitter]

Guy I know owns a grow shop; told me he took cannazym, sensizym, hygrozym,,, put them into containers with something(I forgot) and the cannazym dissolved the unknown item fastest. He's a smart old timer. I trust him. plus I am Anti Zym -- but that is because I'd rather the ease of a sterile hydro. BUT, lately I have been playing with coco in 3 gallon fabric pots. must say, after six weeks using carbs/benies myco, I ended up running into a root mass issue. I used cannazym for one week and by day 10 after I was happy.
I've used hygrozym and sensi both for hydro. they work. but testing it like the dude did -- that was the ticket in my book.

Cannazym.