lm561c s6 driver amp issue.

Budies 101

Budies 101

Well-Known Member
View attachment 4009162 IMG_20170912_092714078_HDR.jpg IMG_20170912_094201728.jpgIMG_20170912_092813734.jpg

Hello, I built a PCB with 672 LM561C S6 bin chips 3500k, when I used the Samsung calculator is said at around 1500mA I would be sitting at aprox 300 watts.

My PCB is 56 chips long in series and 12 rows wide in parallel.

The light turns on fine but at 300 watts I'm seeing 2.7 amps off the driver.

The Driver is a HLG-320-c1750b, shouldn't it not be able to do over 1700mA?

At 1.8 amps I am holding 215 watts, the calculator said at 1.6amps I should have been at 300watts.

Driver: http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Mean-Well/HLG-320H-C1750B/?qs=uP22XH7NdCveON9km%2bvvQQ==

The goal of the light is to flower a 4x2 area, from there you can go out as far as you like, 4x4 4x8 4x20... whatever length. The light is 42 inches long by 8 inches wide.

Any help would be great, thx!
 
K

kony brado

Well-Known Member
Budies 101 said:
View attachment 4009162 View attachment 4009164 View attachment 4009165View attachment 4009167

Hello, I built a PCB with 672 LM561C S6 bin chips 3500k, when I used the Samsung calculator is said at around 1500mA I would be sitting at aprox 300 watts.

My PCB is 56 chips long in series and 12 rows wide in parallel.

The light turns on fine but at 300 watts I'm seeing 2.7 amps off the driver.

The Driver is a HLG-320-c1750b, shouldn't it not be able to do over 1700mA?

At 1.8 amps I am holding 215 watts, the calculator said at 1.6amps I should have been at 300watts.

Driver: http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Mean-Well/HLG-320H-C1750B/?qs=uP22XH7NdCveON9km%2bvvQQ==

The goal of the light is to flower a 4x2 area, from there you can go out as far as you like, 4x4 4x8 4x20... whatever length. The light is 42 inches long by 8 inches wide.

Any help would be great, thx!
Click to expand...

hi there
How do you check the amps?
Pleas correct me if im wrong.
are you using a "kill a watt" ? if you do it make sens ,2.7 amps at 110v(i guess your in the us) is 297 watts(2.7*110=297)
it seams you measure the ac side and not dc side,1.8*110=198watts
The numbers seems to fit the ac side with 110v american standard .
if this is the case,there is nothing wrong with the board,and you get on the board side what you should get.
i cant think of any logic explenation if thats not the case.
good luck:peace::peace::peace:

edit : i guess its 120v and not110 in the u.s
 
Last edited:
K

kony brado

Well-Known Member
when you max the current(amps) on your driver you get 3 volts per diode in the string of 56 =169volts *1.75 A =294 watts on dc side(board side) so i guess you have 120 volts in american plug (i was mistaken before) so 120v*2.7A=324watts on the ac side(plug) and 294 watts on dc side (this is on the board side and is the power that drive it)your driver consume 30 watts + - ~:bigjoint:
i think its BINGO(:
:peace::peace::peace:
 
K

kony brado

Well-Known Member
Board looks great.
Can i ask who made it or is this confidential?
Are you going commercial or is it just for you?
thank's :peace::peace::peace:
 
Budies 101

Budies 101

Well-Known Member
kony brado said:
Board looks great.
Can i ask who made it or is this confidential?
Are you going commercial or is it just for you?
thank's :peace::peace::peace:
Click to expand...
Well thanks for the info.

I made the board for myself as I plan to grow in pallet racks and need all the room I can get, the light is thinner than a pen. Anyone I talk to here where I live who happens to be a grower seems to have some amount of interest in me building them lights. I don't know about the legality of me building a light for people.

Are you looking to have a PCB made for you?

So, even though my thingy says 2.7 amps to get the 300watts i'm actually only around 1.7mA and everything is ok? How would I see that 1.7mA?

thanks!
 
Budies 101

Budies 101

Well-Known Member
The idea for the light is to be use in commercial grows using pallet racks. I keep finding odd sizes in pcb's where you have to put a few together and to me it gets awkward and can be a lot of work. This light takes like 10 min to wire up and set on the heatsink. I want a commercial work horse light, no crazyness with reds and blues for now, just 4x300watts over a 4x8. In the future I will be doing 4x10 racks so the idea is just add 1 more light, that easy. GrowM5 found one of his best yielding grows was off an old cob build, I feel like that's all that is needed, a simple workhorse light, the rest is genetics and the grower/room.

I wanted a light that would cover 4x2 foot wide super evenly, and honestly I'll have to test with a PAR reader to find out, but that's coming. At 42 inchs long I feel like it will achieve good par over 4 foot.

To find out the correct amp draw would I have to plug my meter in between the pcb and the driver? Not go from the wall with the meter, then to the driver and out to the light?
 
CannaBruh

CannaBruh

Well-Known Member
meter in current mode, place it in series in your circuit, you can try both between the wall and your driver and between the driver and your pcb and you might find they are the same
 
Budies 101

Budies 101

Well-Known Member
CannaBruh said:
meter in current mode, place it in series in your circuit, you can try both between the wall and your driver and between the driver and your pcb and you might find they are the same
Click to expand...

But the driver shouldnt be able to be over 1.750mA draw yes? I basically don't want to have chit catch on fire =X
 
CannaBruh

CannaBruh

Well-Known Member
Budies 101 said:
But the driver shouldnt be able to be over 1.750mA draw yes? I basically don't want to have chit catch on fire =X
Click to expand...
I don't know, how did you measure current before?

I looked at the spec for the driver and it looks like 1.75A is correct. Is there error in your measurement and it works correctly?
 
Budies 101

Budies 101

Well-Known Member
Ok, great haha. I have 7 boards so I'll wire one up to test DC later. Thanks a lot guys!

It's amazing to have so much help on stuff from people round here.
 
K

kony brado

Well-Known Member
Budies 101 said:
Well thanks for the info.

I made the board for myself as I plan to grow in pallet racks and need all the room I can get, the light is thinner than a pen. Anyone I talk to here where I live who happens to be a grower seems to have some amount of interest in me building them lights. I don't know about the legality of me building a light for people.

Are you looking to have a PCB made for you?

So, even though my thingy says 2.7 amps to get the 300watts i'm actually only around 1.7mA and everything is ok? How would I see that 1.7mA?

thanks!
Click to expand...
Yes,everything is ok with board driver and current.
You just measure the ac input and not the dc output.
You need a multymeter to check the dc output ,you cannot do it with a kill a watt. But you don't realy have to measure ,it's ok ,and the numbers add up nice.
When your driver set to max you will get 294watts to the leds and abut 320watts will be consumed from the wall (the driver will waist abut 30 watts).
 
Budies 101

Budies 101

Well-Known Member
kony brado said:
Yes,everything is ok with board driver and current.
You just measure the ac input and not the dc output.
You need a multymeter to check the dc output ,you cannot do it with a kill a watt. But you don't realy have to measure ,it's ok ,and the numbers add up nice.
When your driver set to max you will get 294watts to the leds and abut 320watts will be consumed from the wall (the driver will waist abut 30 watts).
Click to expand...

Oddly before I added the potentiometer I saw 326watts from the wall, after I was just under 300 maxed. In the end all I wanted was a 275-300watt board so sounds like that's where I sit and that makes meh happy.

thanks Kony brado.
 
K

kony brado

Well-Known Member
Budies 101 said:
Oddly before I added the potentiometer I saw 326watts from the wall, after I was just under 300 maxed. In the end all I wanted was a 275-300watt board so sounds like that's where I sit and that makes meh happy.

thanks Kony brado.
Click to expand...
if you want more power from the driver you can have the dimming Leeds open like you did before.also can install a switch on them,and when the switch connect the leads you'll have dimming capabilities ,and when switch disconect the leads you'll have full power from the driver.
You most very welkome @Budies 101 ,im glad to help if i can,this is the purpose of this forum.
thank's
 
Budies 101

Budies 101

Well-Known Member
kony brado said:
if you want more power from the driver you can have the dimming Leeds open like you did before.also can install a switch on them,and when the switch connect the leads you'll have dimming capabilities ,and when switch disconect the leads you'll have full power from the driver.
You most very welkome @Budies 101 ,im glad to help if i can,this is the purpose of this forum.
thank's
Click to expand...

Chance you can link me these switch connectors?
 
K

kony brado

Well-Known Member
Any dc on/off switch will do. something like this:

https://www.amazon.com/uxcell-Position-Rocker-Switch-Listed/dp/B071NFKNXK/ref=sr_1_8?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1505252372&sr=1-8&keywords=on+off+dc+switch

you can use any switch becaus the dimming leads carry only 10 volts ,so any switch will do

You can also use the hlg320h-c1750A which is the same driver with build in potentiometer that dimmes from 100% to 50%.
this version has more power than the b version and will max at 2.02 amps, so will give you 169volts * 2.02=341 watts to the pcb and will draw abut 360 watts from the wall for your case .much more power than B version hlg for the same cost ,and no dimming wires pots and switches. personally i prefer the A version,more power and less wires(i never dim less than 50% anyway)
hope that helps
thanks
 
Budies 101

Budies 101

Well-Known Member
Thx again kony, I actually meant to buy the 1750A not the B. In the future (I have the more PCB after these 4 I build out) I'll get the HLG A version.
 
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